Hayeslad
Well-known member
I always find that although a great little compac that image sharpness is often lost to the noise reduction and so instead you end up with images that look more like paintings rather than actually real life.
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What's the best settings on an F100FD for the sharpest image quality?
- Thread starter Hayeslad
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If you want the best from the F100, you should start with 12mp FINE 4:3. and set it to AUTOOISO(400). I use 12mp 3:2, which only comes in NORMAL compression, but it actually has too high blocking is graduated sky scenes. But I like 3:2 pictures for easy printing of 6x4 pictures.
Then because it has a tendency to overexpose and wash out the colour, you should use M mode and there are two choices for optimum exposure:
EV=0 and photometry=AVERAGE
or
EV=-1/3 and photometry=MULTI
These will give near to the same result except I prefer the AVERAGE metering because the midtones are lifted a bit more giving the colour a more vibrant appearance.
Because DR raises ISO with higher DR settings, try to avoid DR400%. Because as described above the exposure has been lowered slightly, there will be less tendancy for it to clip highlights, so if you choose DR=AUTO it will choose DR=400% less often. If you do not want it to use higher than ISO200 to keep noise low then lock ISO to ISO200 and leave DR=AUTO. If you check DR now you will find DR400% grayed out. I don't prefer this as you now need to set ISO back to AUTOISO(400) for low light use.
Make sure AF mode is set to CENTRE and power saving is not set to QUICK AF
When you compose your shot, half press by pointing the crosshairs to an object with contrast and edges, then when it beeps and locks focus, recompose and fully press the shutter.
If you are displaying your images on the web, reduce them using an algorithm that shows the least jaggedness on angled lines, then apply a slight amount of sharpening.
Hope this helps, here is my F100 album: http://s455.photobucket.com/albums/qq271/Bricoh/fujian/
Brian
Then because it has a tendency to overexpose and wash out the colour, you should use M mode and there are two choices for optimum exposure:
EV=0 and photometry=AVERAGE
or
EV=-1/3 and photometry=MULTI
These will give near to the same result except I prefer the AVERAGE metering because the midtones are lifted a bit more giving the colour a more vibrant appearance.
Because DR raises ISO with higher DR settings, try to avoid DR400%. Because as described above the exposure has been lowered slightly, there will be less tendancy for it to clip highlights, so if you choose DR=AUTO it will choose DR=400% less often. If you do not want it to use higher than ISO200 to keep noise low then lock ISO to ISO200 and leave DR=AUTO. If you check DR now you will find DR400% grayed out. I don't prefer this as you now need to set ISO back to AUTOISO(400) for low light use.
Make sure AF mode is set to CENTRE and power saving is not set to QUICK AF
When you compose your shot, half press by pointing the crosshairs to an object with contrast and edges, then when it beeps and locks focus, recompose and fully press the shutter.
If you are displaying your images on the web, reduce them using an algorithm that shows the least jaggedness on angled lines, then apply a slight amount of sharpening.
Hope this helps, here is my F100 album: http://s455.photobucket.com/albums/qq271/Bricoh/fujian/
Brian
joseph farrugia
Member
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impressive album mr brian j. brilliant...you sure know how to take the max from the f100fd....i own one as well but i sure wish im good as you....good work my friend...congratulations.
Thanks for the kind words, it is difficult to judge ones own work so I appreciate feedback.
I think the F100 for all its limitations is still a very good and simple camera to carry to capture the moment, and with the settings I have suggested, it brings home a quality base image that with a little PP can produce spectacular results. I generally just need to add a little extra contrast or lighten shadow area to get the examples in my album.
Brian
Hayeslad
Well-known member
You lost me at this point "DR raises ISO with higher DR settings"
I was doing so well up until then
In the F100fd that preceded the EXR technology of the F200EXR and F70EXR, the expanded dynamic range was achieved via software methods, whereby the ISO is raised up the sensor light to voltage curve which is unlinear near the higher exposure end. The effect of this rolloff is to prevent blown or clipped highlights.You lost me at this point "DR raises ISO with higher DR settings"
I was doing so well up until then
This works well to expand dynamic range (DR), but pays the price of raising ISO if the DR needs to be increased to prevent clipping highlights. So in this case ISO is raised even though it is not low light situation. The drawback being that noise increases in the shadow areas of the image which is then affected by noise reduction in camera, resulting in the painted effect that you ask about in your original question.
I have described settings which will minimise these impacts, while at the same time retaining the cameras versatility for all situations without having to constantly change the settings depending on the circumstance.
Hope this clarifies it a bit.
Brian
Hayeslad
Well-known member
Makes more sense now but how exactly to I alter all these settings? I don't recall ever seeing a DR setting.In the F100fd that preceded the EXR technology of the F200EXR and F70EXR, the expanded dynamic range was achieved via software methods, whereby the ISO is raised up the sensor light to voltage curve which is unlinear near the higher exposure end. The effect of this rolloff is to prevent blown or clipped highlights.You lost me at this point "DR raises ISO with higher DR settings"
I was doing so well up until then
This works well to expand dynamic range (DR), but pays the price of raising ISO if the DR needs to be increased to prevent clipping highlights. So in this case ISO is raised even though it is not low light situation. The drawback being that noise increases in the shadow areas of the image which is then affected by noise reduction in camera, resulting in the painted effect that you ask about in your original question.
I have described settings which will minimise these impacts, while at the same time retaining the cameras versatility for all situations without having to constantly change the settings depending on the circumstance.
Hope this clarifies it a bit.
Brian
You must be in M mode (manual), not AUTO and the DR and ISO are accessed by the F button and the others are in the settings which can be accessed by pressing the OK button for 2sec.Makes more sense now but how exactly to I alter all these settings? I don't recall ever seeing a DR setting.In the F100fd that preceded the EXR technology of the F200EXR and F70EXR, the expanded dynamic range was achieved via software methods, whereby the ISO is raised up the sensor light to voltage curve which is unlinear near the higher exposure end. The effect of this rolloff is to prevent blown or clipped highlights.You lost me at this point "DR raises ISO with higher DR settings"
I was doing so well up until then
This works well to expand dynamic range (DR), but pays the price of raising ISO if the DR needs to be increased to prevent clipping highlights. So in this case ISO is raised even though it is not low light situation. The drawback being that noise increases in the shadow areas of the image which is then affected by noise reduction in camera, resulting in the painted effect that you ask about in your original question.
I have described settings which will minimise these impacts, while at the same time retaining the cameras versatility for all situations without having to constantly change the settings depending on the circumstance.
Hope this clarifies it a bit.
Brian
Brian
Humble Bear
Forum Enthusiast
If you want to see the sharpest detailed images, you need to opt for the lowest possible ISO manually before blurry starts. The latest Fujis are know to use much higher ISO than neccessary if you let it select automatically. When shot at higher ISO say 800 & above, the images will appear to have an water color effect due to its strong noise reduction engine. But when shot optimally, F100 has one of the sharpest images among compacts from 100-400 ISO. Personally, I like to manually select the ISO; for instance, if I shoot outdoor scenes, I just fix the ISO at 100 unless it's very contrasty then select ISO200 and DR=200. Hope that helps.
Hayeslad
Well-known member
Thank you guys so much! Now it's taking the sharpest images I have ever seen from this camera.
Now for my next question though. What is the best settings to have the camera on for concerts/gigs?
Now for my next question though. What is the best settings to have the camera on for concerts/gigs?
The settings I have given work perfectly for night show photography.
ie
AUTOISO(400) which can be increased carefully to keep the shutter speed high enough in dark shows, but each step causes a noise increase.
DR=AUTO
No need to change anything from day to night, you will be amazed at the outcome.
example of these settings at a fairly dark show:
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1012&message=34209162
For really dark night street shots, use the NIGHT mode and set time exposure.
With your results, you can eaither do no PP or sometimes you might need a little more contrast.
Good to hear you are happier with the F100, it is a fantastic camera.
Brian
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