Reading mode: Light Dark

D60 & A Night Club Lens Help.

Go to last post
W

Waynestrying

Member
Messages
11
Reaction score
0
Location
US
Just got my D60. Now I need Lens & Flash for night club photos. Also would like a good lens for taking photos of my kids at the park. Thanks.
 
Waynestrying said:
Just got my D60. Now I need Lens & Flash for night club photos.
Also would like a good lens for taking photos of my kids at the
park. Thanks.
Click to expand...
Fast and small (for a night club) implies:

50/1.4
50/1.8

Kids in park implies

No money - 2nd hand zoom
Some money 28-135 IS
Loadsamoney - 70-200 2.8LIS

Rob.
 
Waynestrying said:
Just got my D60. Now I need Lens & Flash for night club photos.
Also would like a good lens for taking photos of my kids at the
park. Thanks.
Click to expand...
--For my night shots, I use a Tamron 24-135 and a Promaster FTD 5500 flash with non-dedicated module. This combo works just great for me.

For outdoors, I stick with IS lens, such as the Canon 28-135. I have other lens but these are the most used.

I especially avoid the larger and heavier lens. Good luck with your choices. You're going to love the D60.
i.j.
 
Waynestrying said:
Just got my D60. Now I need Lens & Flash for night club photos.
Also would like a good lens for taking photos of my kids at the
park. Thanks.
Click to expand...
I'm quite impressed with the image quality, build quality as well as the overall price of the Sigma 15-30 mm lens.

http://www.deltainternational.com/store/Item_SGL15%2D30C.htm

You'll find the versatility of the lens will suit you well for the cramped interiors of clubs as well as the wide restrictive conditions of the playgrounds at the park.

The flash is another issue as the only flash I have in my possession is the one on top of the D-30:-) When I finish building my lens kit there are several flash units I'll be getting but I'm not a flash kinda guy, I like natural lighting, as a flash, in a night club, in my opinion, ruins the soft ambiant lighting.

You might also consider Sigma's 20 mm f/1.8 as a less expensive alternative to Sigma's 15-30 mm.

http://www.deltainternational.com/store/Item_SGL201%2E8EXC.htm

I'm sure you'd be happy with either of these two lenses for your purposes.

Hope this helps.
 
I guess I'd go with the 50 f1.8 or 1.4. Then you have the option to shoot with the built in flash on the D60 which is about as powerful as those found on PS cameras. I'd try it first before you go too wild on gear and see if that will do the trick.

Also with a fast lens you might be able to get away with shooting available light since the D60 is very good under low lighting conditions....also might mean you are a bit less obvious as you will attract attention every time the flash fires...

Kevin
 
If you are using a flash, you don't necessarily need a fast prime. My standard indoor people lens and flash are:

1. Canon 24-85mm f3.5-4.5
2. Metz 54MZ-3 (flash)
3. Stofen omnibounce or
4. a Softbox

This is for when I'm using a flash. The Omnibounce attracts less attention than the Softbox.

A Flash like the 54MZ-3 or the Canon 550EX or something like Canon's ST-E2 transmitter is almost required for low light for the IR AF light. It'll help in the ability to actually get a focus lock and the speed to get a focus lock.

I think the Canon 24-85 f3.5-4.5 has a good range for indoor people shots. Lets you get somewhat wide (about 38mm on a D30/60) and also lets you zoom in a bit. The quality is good stopped down to about f5.6 or f8. If you are using a good strong flash, you can do this. I don't know how feasible it would be to try and capture the ambient light in a nightclub, so I would think you wouldn't need a fast prime.

If you can bounce the flash, I'd probably use the Stofen Omnibounce. If you can't bounce the flash, I'd use the softbox. If you can, you should get a flash bracket in order to get the flash further away from the camera.

Joo
Waynestrying said:
Just got my D60. Now I need Lens & Flash for night club photos.
Also would like a good lens for taking photos of my kids at the
park. Thanks.
Click to expand...
--
 
Shot a concert last night (350+ images, will post the selects once I get them edited)

The D60 is great with dramatic stage lighting. I shot with a number of lenses: 20mm 2.8, 28-135 IS, 100 2.8 (Macro) and a Sigma 125-400. Sometimes combined with a 550 or a ST-E2.

The ST-E2 makes quite a difference in AF in these conditions. But you can also do the same with the 550 and the "emit/does not fire" custom function.

Some of my favorite shots are blurry soft colors shot in slow shutter speeds like 4-30. Then you can use a flash and set your curtain synch correctly (why does it default to front???) to freeze a little bit of motion here and there. Fun stuff

For a night club go with one of the 50's, but then the 20's awfully nice in close quarters.

M
--
Be Good Humans.

http://www.theMirrorpool.com
http://www.digart209.org
http://www.mattfrederickdesign.com
 
We shoot a ton in nightclubs and I generally use either the 50mm 1.4 or 28-70 2.8. I also use a 550EX on my D30 or D60 and really love the effects.

If you want to check stuff out, there are some shots in my gallery below, as well as this one club night I shoot regularly at:

http://www.orangeexposure.com/public/refer.jsp?id=9&pwd=sample

or via
http://www.orangeexposure.com/
Event ID: 9
Password: sample

gene

--
orange[photography]
http://www.orangephotography.com/genex/

orange(exposure)
http://www.orangeexposure.com
 
Waynestrying said:
Just got my D60. Now I need Lens & Flash for night club photos.
Click to expand...
Hi,

The equipment you need greatly depends on the type of party and the focus of your shooting. If you are taking pictures of people in well-lit restaurants, a usual pro equipment will do just fine. But if you are going to take photos of dark, smoke-filled dance floor filled with dancing people and rapidly moving lights, you have to be extra careful about your equipment.

We have seen numerous times what happens when a professional photographer that is used to shooting outside or in other well-lit situations comes to a party with his 28-70L lens, with no tripod - the results are catastrophic. The laws of normal shooting situations just don't apply to these kind of parties.

We are not professional photographers, far from it. But during the time we have had out digital camera (approx. 1 year) we have taken over 10.000 pictures in techno parties and clubs. During this time, we have discovered these few basic rules.

Rule no 1. You need to have a lens that goes up to at least 2.0, preferably even more. When speaking of shooting dark dance floor without a flash, a usual setting is something like f1.8, 1/8s, ISO800. An aperture f2.8 is out of question, unless there is a extremely strong light available (perhaps a strobe light or a moving head with 1000W or more).

Rule no 2. You need to have a good tripod. The tripod has to be at least as tall as your shoulders at its maximum, otherwise you will only get pictures of nearest person's back, not the whole dance floor like you expected. The tripod has to sturdy enough so that the bouncing of the bass subwoofers doesn't shake it too much. The head has to be quickly and easily adjustable.

Rule no 3. With D30/D60, you need all the AF assistance you can get. A flash with a proper AF light will help a lot. The best AF light is attached to 420EX. 550EX and ST-E2 have a weaker AF light - the difference compared to 420EX is dramatic. (Surprisingly enough, the manuals of Canon claim that 550EX could focus better than 420EX, but as a Canon representative told us this morning, this is not the case.)

Rule no 4. Straight, harsh flash will not look good in the club. Using a transmitter (e.g. ST-E2) and a separate flash one can get nice results in which shadows from flash look more natural and the background is filled with ambient light. A cheap, simple tripod for the separate flash is handy but not necessary. Use flash with care, though, and preferably with a little bit of lowered power (e.g. -2/3 stops) and with a long exposure. It is essential to get as much of the ambient light of the scene as one can, otherwise the pictures will look really flat and dull.

These rules can be applied with ascending order, meaning that the first one is the most crucial.

What does this all mean when speaking of equipment? Personally, we have the following setting:
Canon D30
Canon 50mm 1.4
Sigma 20mm 1.8
Canon ST-E2
Canon 420EX
Manfrotto 055 pro
Novoflex Magic Ball
a cheap Vanguard MK-2 tripod for flash

And when speaking of lenses, remember that the 1.6 multiplier applies - a tele wouldn't do much unless one tries to capture a picture of a distant dj playing or something like that. We are thinking of getting another prime lens with aperture at least f2.0, propably 28mm. A zoom lens would be great for photographing people, but the maximum aperture of f2.8 is a great hinder on the dance floor. Maybe Sigma 28-70/2.8, or if we are feeling rich, same Canon with L on its back.

This listing is of course based on our own judgement and experience, but it seems to be working pretty well in techno parties at least. But when gearing towards more normal lighting conditions, to better-lit night clubs and restaurants, one can of course relax with these contstraints.

Best regards,
Ville & Varvana
 
ville partanen said:
Waynestrying said:
Just got my D60. Now I need Lens & Flash for night club photos.
Click to expand...
Hi,

The equipment you need greatly depends on the type of party and the
focus of your shooting. If you are taking pictures of people in
well-lit restaurants, a usual pro equipment will do just fine. But
if you are going to take photos of dark, smoke-filled dance floor
filled with dancing people and rapidly moving lights, you have to
be extra careful about your equipment.

We have seen numerous times what happens when a professional
photographer that is used to shooting outside or in other well-lit
situations comes to a party with his 28-70L lens, with no tripod -
the results are catastrophic. The laws of normal shooting
situations just don't apply to these kind of parties.

We are not professional photographers, far from it. But during the
time we have had out digital camera (approx. 1 year) we have taken
over 10.000 pictures in techno parties and clubs. During this time,
we have discovered these few basic rules.

Rule no 1. You need to have a lens that goes up to at least 2.0,
preferably even more. When speaking of shooting dark dance floor
without a flash, a usual setting is something like f1.8, 1/8s,
ISO800. An aperture f2.8 is out of question, unless there is a
extremely strong light available (perhaps a strobe light or a
moving head with 1000W or more).

Rule no 2. You need to have a good tripod. The tripod has to be at
least as tall as your shoulders at its maximum, otherwise you will
only get pictures of nearest person's back, not the whole dance
floor like you expected. The tripod has to sturdy enough so that
the bouncing of the bass subwoofers doesn't shake it too much. The
head has to be quickly and easily adjustable.

Rule no 3. With D30/D60, you need all the AF assistance you can
get. A flash with a proper AF light will help a lot. The best AF
light is attached to 420EX. 550EX and ST-E2 have a weaker AF light
  • the difference compared to 420EX is dramatic. (Surprisingly
enough, the manuals of Canon claim that 550EX could focus better
than 420EX, but as a Canon representative told us this morning,
this is not the case.)

Rule no 4. Straight, harsh flash will not look good in the club.
Using a transmitter (e.g. ST-E2) and a separate flash one can get
nice results in which shadows from flash look more natural and the
background is filled with ambient light. A cheap, simple tripod for
the separate flash is handy but not necessary. Use flash with care,
though, and preferably with a little bit of lowered power (e.g.
-2/3 stops) and with a long exposure. It is essential to get as
much of the ambient light of the scene as one can, otherwise the
pictures will look really flat and dull.

These rules can be applied with ascending order, meaning that the
first one is the most crucial.

What does this all mean when speaking of equipment? Personally, we
have the following setting:
Canon D30
Canon 50mm 1.4
Sigma 20mm 1.8
Canon ST-E2
Canon 420EX
Manfrotto 055 pro
Novoflex Magic Ball
a cheap Vanguard MK-2 tripod for flash

And when speaking of lenses, remember that the 1.6 multiplier
applies - a tele wouldn't do much unless one tries to capture a
picture of a distant dj playing or something like that. We are
thinking of getting another prime lens with aperture at least f2.0,
propably 28mm. A zoom lens would be great for photographing people,
but the maximum aperture of f2.8 is a great hinder on the dance
floor. Maybe Sigma 28-70/2.8, or if we are feeling rich, same Canon
with L on its back.

This listing is of course based on our own judgement and
experience, but it seems to be working pretty well in techno
parties at least. But when gearing towards more normal lighting
conditions, to better-lit night clubs and restaurants, one can of
course relax with these contstraints.

Best regards,
Ville & Varvana
Click to expand...
--
 
How about a Canon 85 f1.8?

Nill
ville partanen said:
And when speaking of lenses, remember that the 1.6 multiplier
applies - a tele wouldn't do much unless one tries to capture a
picture of a distant dj playing or something like that. We are
thinking of getting another prime lens with aperture at least f2.0,
propably 28mm. A zoom lens would be great for photographing people,
but the maximum aperture of f2.8 is a great hinder on the dance
floor. Maybe Sigma 28-70/2.8, or if we are feeling rich, same Canon
with L on its back.
Click to expand...
 
Please give me some tips for using the Omnibounce with the 54MZ-3. I have both and still can't get the combination to work in auto or ETTL. Let me in on your secrets. Please!

Jim
Joo said:
1. Canon 24-85mm f3.5-4.5
2. Metz 54MZ-3 (flash)
3. Stofen omnibounce or
4. a Softbox

This is for when I'm using a flash. The Omnibounce attracts less
attention than the Softbox.

A Flash like the 54MZ-3 or the Canon 550EX or something like
Canon's ST-E2 transmitter is almost required for low light for the
IR AF light. It'll help in the ability to actually get a focus
lock and the speed to get a focus lock.

I think the Canon 24-85 f3.5-4.5 has a good range for indoor people
shots. Lets you get somewhat wide (about 38mm on a D30/60) and also
lets you zoom in a bit. The quality is good stopped down to about
f5.6 or f8. If you are using a good strong flash, you can do this.
I don't know how feasible it would be to try and capture the
ambient light in a nightclub, so I would think you wouldn't need a
fast prime.

If you can bounce the flash, I'd probably use the Stofen
Omnibounce. If you can't bounce the flash, I'd use the softbox. If
you can, you should get a flash bracket in order to get the flash
further away from the camera.

Joo
Waynestrying said:
Just got my D60. Now I need Lens & Flash for night club photos.
Also would like a good lens for taking photos of my kids at the
park. Thanks.
Click to expand...
--
  • Maybe one day I'll take a decent picture. In the meantime, I'll
blame the equipment. :)
Click to expand...
--
Argus C-3, 50mm f/3.5 Argus coated Cintar WITH flash!
Canon 1D
 
I use the Metz in Auto mode and set the D30 to Manual mode. I usually shoot at f8 or f5.6 with a shutter speed of about 1/100s. What I do is take a couple test shots at the beginning so that I can get the flash power correct. Usually I'll take a shot of a subject that is reasonably close to me. I set everything so that the exposure is fine at ISO 100. I try to be conscious of the distance between the subject and myself. If the subject is reasonably far away from me, I quickly up the ISO to 200 (easy to do from the dial on the back) which is usually enough to correct for the flash power fall off due to distance. I also always shoot in RAW mode so I have more lattitude in doing minor exposure corrections afterwards.

BTW... I do this whether I'm using the omnibounce, softbox, or bare flash.

Joo
Jim Dawson said:
Jim
Joo said:
1. Canon 24-85mm f3.5-4.5
2. Metz 54MZ-3 (flash)
3. Stofen omnibounce or
4. a Softbox

This is for when I'm using a flash. The Omnibounce attracts less
attention than the Softbox.

A Flash like the 54MZ-3 or the Canon 550EX or something like
Canon's ST-E2 transmitter is almost required for low light for the
IR AF light. It'll help in the ability to actually get a focus
lock and the speed to get a focus lock.

I think the Canon 24-85 f3.5-4.5 has a good range for indoor people
shots. Lets you get somewhat wide (about 38mm on a D30/60) and also
lets you zoom in a bit. The quality is good stopped down to about
f5.6 or f8. If you are using a good strong flash, you can do this.
I don't know how feasible it would be to try and capture the
ambient light in a nightclub, so I would think you wouldn't need a
fast prime.

If you can bounce the flash, I'd probably use the Stofen
Omnibounce. If you can't bounce the flash, I'd use the softbox. If
you can, you should get a flash bracket in order to get the flash
further away from the camera.

Joo
Waynestrying said:
Just got my D60. Now I need Lens & Flash for night club photos.
Also would like a good lens for taking photos of my kids at the
park. Thanks.
Click to expand...
--
  • Maybe one day I'll take a decent picture. In the meantime, I'll
blame the equipment. :)
Click to expand...
--
Argus C-3, 50mm f/3.5 Argus coated Cintar WITH flash!
Canon 1D
Click to expand...
--
 
I use the Metz in Auto mode and set the D30 to Manual mode. I usually shoot at f8 or f5.6 with a shutter speed of about 1/100s. What I do is take a couple test shots at the beginning so that I can get the flash power correct. Usually I'll take a shot of a subject that is reasonably close to me. I set everything so that the exposure is fine at ISO 100. I try to be conscious of the distance between the subject and myself. If the subject is reasonably far away from me, I quickly up the ISO to 200 (easy to do from the dial on the back) which is usually enough to correct for the flash power fall off due to distance. I also always shoot in RAW mode so I have more lattitude in doing minor exposure corrections afterwards.

BTW... I do this whether I'm using the omnibounce, softbox, or bare flash.

Joo
Jim Dawson said:
Jim
Joo said:
1. Canon 24-85mm f3.5-4.5
2. Metz 54MZ-3 (flash)
3. Stofen omnibounce or
4. a Softbox

This is for when I'm using a flash. The Omnibounce attracts less
attention than the Softbox.

A Flash like the 54MZ-3 or the Canon 550EX or something like
Canon's ST-E2 transmitter is almost required for low light for the
IR AF light. It'll help in the ability to actually get a focus
lock and the speed to get a focus lock.

I think the Canon 24-85 f3.5-4.5 has a good range for indoor people
shots. Lets you get somewhat wide (about 38mm on a D30/60) and also
lets you zoom in a bit. The quality is good stopped down to about
f5.6 or f8. If you are using a good strong flash, you can do this.
I don't know how feasible it would be to try and capture the
ambient light in a nightclub, so I would think you wouldn't need a
fast prime.

If you can bounce the flash, I'd probably use the Stofen
Omnibounce. If you can't bounce the flash, I'd use the softbox. If
you can, you should get a flash bracket in order to get the flash
further away from the camera.

Joo
Waynestrying said:
Just got my D60. Now I need Lens & Flash for night club photos.
Also would like a good lens for taking photos of my kids at the
park. Thanks.
Click to expand...
--
  • Maybe one day I'll take a decent picture. In the meantime, I'll
blame the equipment. :)
Click to expand...
--
Argus C-3, 50mm f/3.5 Argus coated Cintar WITH flash!
Canon 1D
Click to expand...
--
 
Joo said:
BTW... I do this whether I'm using the omnibounce, softbox, or bare
flash.

Joo
Jim Dawson said:
Jim
Joo said:
1. Canon 24-85mm f3.5-4.5
2. Metz 54MZ-3 (flash)
3. Stofen omnibounce or
4. a Softbox

This is for when I'm using a flash. The Omnibounce attracts less
attention than the Softbox.

A Flash like the 54MZ-3 or the Canon 550EX or something like
Canon's ST-E2 transmitter is almost required for low light for the
IR AF light. It'll help in the ability to actually get a focus
lock and the speed to get a focus lock.

I think the Canon 24-85 f3.5-4.5 has a good range for indoor people
shots. Lets you get somewhat wide (about 38mm on a D30/60) and also
lets you zoom in a bit. The quality is good stopped down to about
f5.6 or f8. If you are using a good strong flash, you can do this.
I don't know how feasible it would be to try and capture the
ambient light in a nightclub, so I would think you wouldn't need a
fast prime.

If you can bounce the flash, I'd probably use the Stofen
Omnibounce. If you can't bounce the flash, I'd use the softbox. If
you can, you should get a flash bracket in order to get the flash
further away from the camera.

Joo
Waynestrying said:
Just got my D60. Now I need Lens & Flash for night club photos.
Also would like a good lens for taking photos of my kids at the
park. Thanks.
Click to expand...
--
  • Maybe one day I'll take a decent picture. In the meantime, I'll
blame the equipment. :)
Click to expand...
--
Argus C-3, 50mm f/3.5 Argus coated Cintar WITH flash!
Canon 1D
Click to expand...
--
  • Maybe one day I'll take a decent picture. In the meantime, I'll
blame the equipment. :)
Click to expand...
--
Argus C-3, 50mm f/3.5 Argus coated Cintar WITH flash!
Canon 1D
 
Since April 2002, the majority of the photography I've done has been in night clubs; I've shot close to 20,000 club photos. My stuff is all posted at http://www.cawtech.com/~caw/PhotoGallery/ and has the EXIF data intact so you can always check how a shot you're curious about was taken.

My clubbin' kit consits of the following:
Canon D30
Canon 28-70 2.8L
Canon 14 2.8L
Canon 70-200 2.8L IS
Canon 550EX w/ Stofen Omnibounce
Quantum Turbo Battery (2)

I do not carry a tripod or monopod with me. For one, it's difficult to even get one into the clubs since they often consider it a weapon (think baseball bat). Secondly, if you do get it in, they are so crowded most of the time that you'd not be able to set one up; a monopod is easier in this regard than a tripod.

As others have mentioned, the AF assist light on the 550EX is mandatory; without it you'll never focus and it's usually far too dark to try focusing manually. With the 70-200, the AF assist won't be able to help you so get to know your club. The 70-200 is too long for most clubs; it's only suitable in larger venues where you're shooting across balconies, etc. For that, I've spent a bunch of time figuring out what the proper focus is on the lens' focus meter for various places I commonly stand aiming at various common places (DJ booth, etc) so that I can manually focus the longer lens. The bulk of my shots are taken with the 28-70, since you can get people dancing at a reasonable distance, yet also get people close up when the place is so crowded that you can't stand back from them. The 14 is really a speciality lens; it does well for wide crowd shots, or special shots of the DJs. The 550EX can't cover the width of the 14mm; you get massive fall-off on the sides. So with the 14 I always use a long exposure to get ambient light, often with a 2nd curtain flash to snapshot in a foreground subject. An example of this with the 14mm, ISO 100, .5 seconds at f/2.8 with 2nd curtain is the following shot of James when he played Spundae Chicago:



Another 14mm shot, again at .5 seconds. This time of Mark Farina at Crobar, which shows how the 14's distortion of perspective can make for a cool shot of a DJ and the turntables:



The 14 is actually very easy to focus in a club, and you could probably get away without the 550's AF assist if using just a 14. The reason for this is that anything past around 1.8 meters is at the 14's infiniate focus point so getting wide club shots with the 14 is trivial in manual mode since you just set it to the infinity point on its focus ring.

About flash and exposure times. I keep the 550EX mounted on the camera, and use a Stofen Omnibounce. Aiming the flash directly at the subject, even with the Stofen, results in very harsh and ugly lighting. I always angle the flash at about 45 degrees, but it depends on the area of the club you're in. Again, only time and experience will allow you to know where and how much to bounce the flash for the various areas of the club. I also stop my flash down by 1/2 (and you loose another full stop from the Stofen). I shoot at ISO 100. I kid you not. The 550EX is more than powerful enough to provide the light necessary to take shots at ISO 100, and I prefer that over the digital noise the D30 suffers from at higher ISO speeds. I shoot two types of pictures: those at 1/60th at 2.8, where the subject is captured entirely by the flash and frozen in place, and those where a timed exposure with 2nd curtain is used. (The truth is, I leave the 550EX in 2nd curtain mode the entire time, whether shooting 1/60th or longer.) The 1/60th stuff is good for getting posed pictures, as well as for shooting bursts when people are dancing. If you're shooting indivdual people dancing (as opposed to pulled back crowd shots), you have to shoot burst, and even then you won't necessarily get a good shot out of it. The Quantum Turbo Battery is really a must for this kind of rapid stuff, as the 550EX can pull hard on the batteries when shooting bursts when bounced off a high ceiling, and without the external battery the recycle time is far too slow. Here is an example of a house dancer caught by a burst that I'd have never have gotten if I was just trying to time hitting the shutter release manually:



For longer exposures, I shoot a lot at 1/2 second and go anywhere up to 4 seconds. I tend to use .5, .7, 1.5, 3, and 4 seconds. Of those, .5 is by far the bulk of them, and usually has the flash on for a 2nd curtain. Sometimes .7 is used this way. For getting shots focused more on capturing the lighting, where you don't want to freeze in the foreground, turn the flash off (CF 3 on the 550 to 1 so you still get AF assist) and then use the longer exposures. I've gotten pretty good at taking longer exposures without huge camera shake even though I'm not using a tripod or monopod. It's a function of learning to brace yourself, how to hold the camera, and how to control your breathing. That shot above of James was .5 seconds, and I had my elboes resting on the back of the DJ booth to make an A frame out of my arms to hold the camera. Here is an example of a 2 second exposure with no flash:



Finally, be prepared to do editing in Photoshop afterwards. At the very least, get to know the Levels tool. Don't use Auto Levels in Photoshop, though, as it usually ends up making people look very wrong when it comes to skin tones.

I hope the above helps. And I always welcome any feedback people might have on the photos I've posted.

Chris
 
Chris, very nice work!

I really like how sharp your images look. I'm shooting again tonight and will try out some of your recs. Also, looks like you've been shooting a lot of the same parties (albeit in different cities). How are the Spudae parties in Chicago? I haven't had a chance to ask Peter and Guiv about them yet.

Final question: how do you save out your JPGs that you posted? They just seem so crisp compared to most of mine (use PS6 > Save for Web > JPG 60%)

Thanks,
gene

--
orange[photography]
http://www.orangephotography.com/genex/
 
gene x said:
I really like how sharp your images look. I'm shooting again
tonight and will try out some of your recs. Also, looks like
you've been shooting a lot of the same parties (albeit in different
cities). How are the Spudae parties in Chicago? I haven't had a
chance to ask Peter and Guiv about them yet.
Click to expand...
I've had a blast at Spundae Chicago; they've been a very good thing for Chicago. The Crystal Method show and the James/Sasha shows were frellin' amazing. Those are also shows that I think are better nights as far as my photography goes as well.
gene x said:
Final question: how do you save out your JPGs that you posted?
They just seem so crisp compared to most of mine (use PS6 > Save
for Web > JPG 60%)
Click to expand...
I shoot everything RAW, convert to (16-bit) TIF for post in Photoshop. I then have BreezeBrowser generate the HTML pages, plus the scaled down images (both 'full size' and the thumbs). Breeze does the sharpening, and uses different settings for the two resolutions. The 'full size' I have Breeze output as JPEG at 100%. I then go through everything in Adobe ImageReady to add the copyright watermark to the image and save out at 60% from within ImageReady.

Chris
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Keyboard shortcuts

f
Forum
m
My threads
Mobile site
About
Editorial content
Cameras & Lenses
Community
All content, design, and layout are Copyright © 1998–2025 Digital Photography Review All Rights Reserved.
Reproduction in whole or part in any form or medium without specific written permission is prohibited.
When you use DPReview links to buy products, the site may earn a commission.
©GPS Media - Guides, Products, Services.
Back
Top