S90 moving people - fuzzy images

Ah Bill and Ronnie, thats why I hang out here on this forum, the adult conversation. You guys every think the rest of us might be happier if you took this tit for tat agruing off line.
 
This says it all for those that would care to know anything about who or what you are. Even Ken Rockwell is worth quoting on those times when he writes something worth considering. Either you aren't familiar with Thom or you're another ZoranC wannabe.
There's no secret about who I am. I've been posting at dpreview using my real name for over 10 years. I know very well well who Thom Hogan and Ken Rockwell are - well enough not be impressed by their quotes or the people who quote them.

As I've said before, you should spend more time thinking and less time quoting.

--
Ron Parr
Digital Photography FAQ: http://www.cs.duke.edu/~parr/photography/faq.html
Gallery: http://www.pbase.com/parr/
 
Ah Bill and Ronnie, thats why I hang out here on this forum, the adult conversation. You guys every think the rest of us might be happier if you took this tit for tat agruing off line.
I'm sorry you have to see this. Actually, you don't have to see it, you could ignore it. Anyway - as I've said in my response to Bill, I've been visiting dpreview for over 10 years. I've seen a lot. It's ugly sometimes, but it turns out that persistence usually pays off. If you keep pressing people to defend their positions with facts and reasons rather than insults or appeals to questionable authorities, it does ultimately elevate the level of discussion - even if it does create some ugliness in the short term.

--
Ron Parr
Digital Photography FAQ: http://www.cs.duke.edu/~parr/photography/faq.html
Gallery: http://www.pbase.com/parr/
 
. . .
Have fun replying to the aether.
Ah Bill and Ronnie, thats why I hang out here on this forum, the adult conversation. You guys every think the rest of us might be happier if you took this tit for tat agruing off line.
Taking it off line would be absurd, and it's quite easy to read only what you find appealing. In any case "Have fun replying to the aether" should have indicated that the Billy/Ronnie branch will only be extended by Master Ronnie, which I'm sure that you'll find gratifying, and which should give Ronnie more time to do what he apparently was born to do - lecture. One only hopes that "Professor" Parr doesn't insult and talk down to his students as he tries to do here.
 
Well Ron, it's a stretch to say this stuff elevates anything. It's time for me to move along, look for a forum that doesnt appear to be dominated by oversized egos.

Y'all just carry on and do what ever the hell ya want.
 
I'm not very experienced, either, but I'll comment on a couple of your settings
Wow...didn't expect these many replies. Obviously some of the replies are going over my head as I stated before I am a photography n00b.

If you someone can help me with the settings below, that would be great. Should I change anything below to take nice pictures?
Thank you both for your replies.

I started reading up on P mode and these are the settings I currently have based on various threads in this forum. Please let me know if I should make any changes? Thanks!!!

AF Frame: Center
AF Frame Size: Normal
Digital Zoom: Off
AF-Point Zoom: Off
Servo AF: Off
AF-assist Beam: On
MF-Point Zoom: On
Safety MF: On
i-Contrast: Auto
Blink Detection: Off
IS Mode: Shoot Only
It will burn more battery power if you set IS to continuous, but it makes it easier to see (on the screen) what the photo will look like. I don't think there are any other disadvantages, but I'm not sure.
Flash Settings:
Flash Exp. Comp: -1
This surprises me. I often turn the flash down either because I just want a little fill flash or because I want to take a picture like "Christmas tree at night" and want to see the rest of the room but preserve the sense that the room is dark. But for random snapshots, I'd think you would want the flash at 0.
I prefer 2nd curtain. As others have said, when you use slow synch, if you have 2nd curtain you get a focused image with a ghostly trail behind it, and with 1st curtain you get the ghostly trail in front of the subject. I find the second more pleasing. If you aren't using slow synch I don't think there'd be any real difference. I don't know when 1st curtain is better - maybe if you are trying to catch something fast and want to get the flash in right away? But then why use sly sync at all?
Red-Eye Correction: Off
Red-Eye Lamp: On
Safety FE: On

ISO: Auto
AWB: Auto
My Colors: Off
If you like a more vivid appearance you might want to play with these a little. I gather that the defaults are set "realistic" or "dull" because that's what people who play in post-processing prefer. But I don't do much post-processing, and it doesn't sound like you do, either.
Bracketing: Off
Brightness: Evaluative
Image Size: Large
The rest all looks fine, to the extent I have an opinion.
 
The recent G11 review (which uses the same sensor, and the same chip) from dpreview says that you get more effective image stabilization by a stop or two if you use IS Continuous, rather than Shot Only. So IS Continuous seems like the best bet.

I also use -1 flash compensation - I find it works pretty well, move than that and picture of people always seem to get blown out and flatted by the flash. When you have clipped highlights, there's not much you can do, as I know from an otherwise good picture I have that I cannot recover some highlights from (the guy was wearing a white shirt, there's no texture on the shirt any more). Technically, for that shot for some reason I seem to have set the flash to +2 (???), but in my experience so far -1 seems good.

If you want to get non-blurry pictures in really low light, you often have to force the shutter speed. Other people have mentioned using manual modes, I like to use TV (shutter priority - I know, shouldn't it be SP or something?). I find that 1/60 is the minimum acceptable speed for photos with somewhat moving people in it (like people walking).

On the one hand, I wish the s90's auto settings were better sometimes (like that second pic where it chose iso80 but 1/4 shutter speed - wth?). On the other hand, one of the great things about the s90 is your ability to manually control these kind of things. I know every single one of my previous compact cameras also took a lot of crap shots in low lighting like that.

P.S. If you you don't like shutter priority, the Kids and Pets scene mode also tends not to let the shutter speed drop below 1/60, and lets you set the flash to "On", rather than just "Auto".
 
I'll try with i-Contrast off to see how the images come up. I turned on blink detection as well.

Flash exp was set to -1 because I read in other threads that S90 has a strong flash...which I tend to agree with. Some images are just so bright.

Thanks for your reply.
It will improve lighting in some cases but it may also give you noisier images.
It seems pretty harmless to leave this on.
Why -1?

--
Ron Parr
Digital Photography FAQ: http://www.cs.duke.edu/~parr/photography/faq.html
Gallery: http://www.pbase.com/parr/
 
I changed it to IS to continuous.

Flash was set to -1 because other threads mentioned that flash is pretty strong in this camera and I have noticed that as well.

I have no idea about shutter sync. I was setting it up based on someone's post here. But i will read up more on that. Maybe 2nd curtain makes sense like you said.

You are correct, I have never done post processing. I'll look into these settings more. (ISO, AWB, etc.)

Thanks for your reply.
Wow...didn't expect these many replies. Obviously some of the replies are going over my head as I stated before I am a photography n00b.

If you someone can help me with the settings below, that would be great. Should I change anything below to take nice pictures?
Thank you both for your replies.

I started reading up on P mode and these are the settings I currently have based on various threads in this forum. Please let me know if I should make any changes? Thanks!!!

AF Frame: Center
AF Frame Size: Normal
Digital Zoom: Off
AF-Point Zoom: Off
Servo AF: Off
AF-assist Beam: On
MF-Point Zoom: On
Safety MF: On
i-Contrast: Auto
Blink Detection: Off
IS Mode: Shoot Only
It will burn more battery power if you set IS to continuous, but it makes it easier to see (on the screen) what the photo will look like. I don't think there are any other disadvantages, but I'm not sure.
Flash Settings:
Flash Exp. Comp: -1
This surprises me. I often turn the flash down either because I just want a little fill flash or because I want to take a picture like "Christmas tree at night" and want to see the rest of the room but preserve the sense that the room is dark. But for random snapshots, I'd think you would want the flash at 0.
I prefer 2nd curtain. As others have said, when you use slow synch, if you have 2nd curtain you get a focused image with a ghostly trail behind it, and with 1st curtain you get the ghostly trail in front of the subject. I find the second more pleasing. If you aren't using slow synch I don't think there'd be any real difference. I don't know when 1st curtain is better - maybe if you are trying to catch something fast and want to get the flash in right away? But then why use sly sync at all?
Red-Eye Correction: Off
Red-Eye Lamp: On
Safety FE: On

ISO: Auto
AWB: Auto
My Colors: Off
If you like a more vivid appearance you might want to play with these a little. I gather that the defaults are set "realistic" or "dull" because that's what people who play in post-processing prefer. But I don't do much post-processing, and it doesn't sound like you do, either.
Bracketing: Off
Brightness: Evaluative
Image Size: Large
The rest all looks fine, to the extent I have an opinion.
 
I changed IS to Continuous based on feedback in this thread including yours.

You are correct about the flash on S90. -1 seems to work right. Anything over is just too bright.

I'll read up on the shutter priority mode.

Yeah, Auto mode is pretty bad on this camera. For example, choosing really high ISO versus choosing flash. I think that's where I miss my Canon SD870IS. I feel Auto mode was great in that camera. I take a lot of pics of my son and I feel that S90 is not gving me the same results in Auto mode that SD870IS gives. Maybe I need to start using various scene modes like kids & pets as you suggest so that the camera chooses fast shutter speeds. But you would think $400 camera would take care of you automatically :-)

Thanks for your reply.
The recent G11 review (which uses the same sensor, and the same chip) from dpreview says that you get more effective image stabilization by a stop or two if you use IS Continuous, rather than Shot Only. So IS Continuous seems like the best bet.

I also use -1 flash compensation - I find it works pretty well, move than that and picture of people always seem to get blown out and flatted by the flash. When you have clipped highlights, there's not much you can do, as I know from an otherwise good picture I have that I cannot recover some highlights from (the guy was wearing a white shirt, there's no texture on the shirt any more). Technically, for that shot for some reason I seem to have set the flash to +2 (???), but in my experience so far -1 seems good.

If you want to get non-blurry pictures in really low light, you often have to force the shutter speed. Other people have mentioned using manual modes, I like to use TV (shutter priority - I know, shouldn't it be SP or something?). I find that 1/60 is the minimum acceptable speed for photos with somewhat moving people in it (like people walking).

On the one hand, I wish the s90's auto settings were better sometimes (like that second pic where it chose iso80 but 1/4 shutter speed - wth?). On the other hand, one of the great things about the s90 is your ability to manually control these kind of things. I know every single one of my previous compact cameras also took a lot of crap shots in low lighting like that.

P.S. If you you don't like shutter priority, the Kids and Pets scene mode also tends not to let the shutter speed drop below 1/60, and lets you set the flash to "On", rather than just "Auto".
 

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