Haven't been this excited,with a camera,in quite some time...but the FZ8 is really fun to use,and begs to be used . . .
All great shots! Could you please summarize very briefly how you PP the RAW files . . . the software, and the order in which you apply the processes?
Well,Mike ,right now,I'm as basic as one can get,with RAW
First,I open PS...then import the RAW file.
Then ,if needed,on a image by image basis,I adjust color temp,contrast,clarity.
It's really a 'capture' setting,for me,more than a 'developing' setting
i.e. I shoot RAW to avoid the Venus NR,and have a bigger file (with no jpeg compression) to work with.
In theory,I should be able to make more adjustments,before the image 'breaks up' or shows 'artifacts',shooting RAw,over jpeg.
But most adjustments,are made after converting the RAw to a TIFF file.
From there....
I kinda adjust,as I go
Per image,no batch,as each image might have different areas,to adjust,and not always the same,IMHO.
No I have no presets,or remembered settings....but some are similar
In Contrast,not much ,at all,with most shots.
I use Shadow/Highlight tool,first,and that covers most exposure issues.
I tend to under expose by up to 1 stop,then use shadow/highlight tool,to brighten up the dark areas.
If adding contrast, usually no more than +10 to + 20 ....usually between +5 to
+ 10.
Next would be Saturation.
Up to + 25 boost,depending on the image.
USM- Most times,done as a two stage process
First time,with Amount 25-50, Radios 3.5 to 5.0 and threshold 3
Second time (not always) - Amount around +75 to +100 , Radious .9 to 1.2 Threshold 3 . (probably could be set lower,with LX3,than with other Panasonic camera's,that show more noise)
Sorry for the l o n g answer...but wanted you to understand it all,since I do little RAw editing,and mainly conversion..and adjust ,as mentioned,after the RAW conversion.
I'm still not sure it's worth the penalty,of losing burst mode,and waiting 3-4 seconds,before able to take another shot.
hope this helps
ANAYV