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Going insane choosing lens(es) - LI issue

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Agent00687

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Am i the only one that can't decide what my next lens will be? And when i think i know what it is, I think of another one that i want. :(

I own an XSi and 18-55mm IS & 55-250mm IS lenses. I'm gonna sell these lenses and I should probably get the 17-55mm f/2.8 IS lens.

But the 70-200mm f/4 IS is very intriguing! So is the 24mm f/1.4 L II USM.. and the 15-85mm got some great reviews.

I can just imagine the possibilities with the 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 IS USM lens :|

There are many others that i want.. including the 50mm f/1.8 II, which is just $100!! :)

IQ is very important to me and right now i just do 'general photography' not specializing in anything....yet. I'm attaching a few pics that i've taken and it would be great to hear some advice and perhaps if anyone else also feels like pulling out their hair with this 'LI' (lens indecisiveness) issue. My budget is kinda tight but if i sell my rsp's (which my boss strongly advises against) i can get a couple of these, otherwise probably just 1 of them. The final option is to keep what i have for another year or so.

There are 62 Canon lenses to buy..and i think i want them all :) lol

18-55mm IS - 18mm, f/8.0, 30s, 100ISO



18-55mm IS - 18mm, f/7.1, 1/50, 200ISO (tilt-shift effect done in CS4)



55-250mm IS - 135mm, f5/0, 1/80, 800ISO



55-250mm IS - 55mm, f/5.6, 1/800, 400ISO



18-55mm IS - 18mm, f/5.6, 1/400, 200ISO



55-250mm IS - 96mm, f/8.0, 1/320, 100ISO (HDR converted afterwards in Photomatix)



18-55mm IS - 23mm, f/22.0, 1s, 200ISO



18-55mm IS - 30mm, f/5.6, 1/60, 200ISO



18-55mm IS - 18mm, f/8.0, 1/8, 400ISO (handheld - and tilt-shift effect applied in CS4)



18-55mm IS - 18mm, f/5.6, 1/60, 200ISO (just after a rainfall in Algonquin Park, Ontario)

 
You are deep in the grip of lens lust. I suffer from it too at times... we all do.

These lens' will come in time. Don't rush everything at once. Enjoy the moment.

You have some very nice photos. This is a great example of the photographer who makes the picture and not the camera/lens combo. Keep up the good work.
 
I recommend keeping the lenses that you have - you are getting good results. Before going out and maxing out a card, think of picking up a lens that will do something that you can't do now.

I'd recommend a fast prime for family and other photos in natural light. On a crop, I love my 35f2. It was not too expensive, and is obviously sharper than the 18-55IS. It is hard to do much better than the kit lens zoom without spending lots of money, and you can get more bang for your buck with a fast prime.

The 35f2 view is comparable to a 56mm lens on film or full frame - it is like a normal lens.

If you want longer, think of the 50f1.4. I got a 50f2.8 macro (Sigma), but any 50 will get lots of use. The Canon 50f2.5 is another option. For available light, the 1.4 would be best. Even if not all that sharp at 1.4, it will be sharp at useful f stops.

Of the lenses that I have, the Canon 35f2 is my favorite. It is light and useful. The Sigma macro is sharper, but the 35 gets more use. I can get good photos with the lens wide open.
 
Your pictures with the "kit" lens are very encourging to me. Sometime I get to caught up in gear, so it nice to see such great results with the same lens already I own.

I choose as my thrid lens a EF-S 60mm Macro. I figure it would give me a good prime lens to try and see if I like it, Plus I can see what Macro shoot is about. Sorta like getting two for the price of one.

And as a bonus is it's one of canon cheaper lens to boot.

Joe
 
Agent00687 said:
Am i the only one that can't decide what my next lens will be? And when i think i know what it is, I think of another one that i want. :(

I own an XSi and 18-55mm IS & 55-250mm IS lenses. I'm gonna sell these lenses and I should probably get the 17-55mm f/2.8 IS lens.

IQ is very important to me and right now i just do 'general photography' not specializing in anything....yet. I'm attaching a few pics that i've taken and it would be great to hear some advice and perhaps if anyone else also feels like pulling out their hair with this 'LI' (lens indecisiveness) issue. My budget is kinda tight but if i sell my rsp's (which my boss strongly advises against) i can get a couple of these, otherwise probably just 1 of them. The final option is to keep what i have for another year or so.

There are 62 Canon lenses to buy..and i think i want them all :) lol
Click to expand...
Yes, but look at it the other way, it's a bit heavy to carry these 62 lenses around with you... :-) So, in the end, how much do you really want to carry with you?

The two lenses you have are rather good IQ for the price, and compact and lightweight. I would not sell them, because this is an excellent travel combo.
Next question: what is it that you really cannot do now?

Do you need (not want) to have a standard zoom for available light?

Then you should get perhaps the 17-55 2.8 IS (unless you consider third party, e.g. Tamron). Or do you simply want to have a better mechanical quality, USM and a wider range, then the 15-85. 15 mm is indeed a sweat spot for wide angle (24mm on ff). So, look what you really miss most.
As others said, complementing your kit with some primes might be an idea too.

--
Life is short, time to zoom in ©
 
Very nice pictures

As I see it you know how to make very nice pictures.

A better lens in the same range is not given mutch to you I think.

Shoot at F8 a new lens will give the same result as the lens you having all ready.

Why not go wider like a 10-20, or extention tubes to play macro with?

Just a thought

Rolf
 
Agent00687 said:
There are 62 Canon lenses to buy..and i think i want them all :) lol
Click to expand...
I know what you mean!
Agent00687 said:
18-55mm IS - 18mm , f/8.0, 30s, 100ISO

http://agent-006-87.smugmug.com/Other/Toronto-at-Night-09012009/IMG0073/638922444_JheJS-L.jpg
18-55mm IS - 18mm , f/7.1, 1/50, 200ISO (tilt-shift effect done in CS4)
http://agent-006-87.smugmug.com/Other/Outdoors/IMG00232/697864802_3GjCZ-L.jpg
55-250mm IS - 135mm , f5/0, 1/80, 800ISO
http://agent-006-87.smugmug.com/Other/Food-Drink/IMG0099/472707795_rvv5A-L.jpg
55-250mm IS - 55mm , f/5.6, 1/800, 400ISO
http://agent-006-87.smugmug.com/Other/Dogs/IMG0475/527705184_WsYnd-L.jpg
18-55mm IS - 18mm , f/5.6, 1/400, 200ISO

http://agent-006-87.smugmug.com/Other/HDR/IMG004112tonemapped/705976963_asKWj-L.jpg

55-250mm IS - 96mm , f/8.0, 1/320, 100ISO (HDR converted afterwards in Photomatix)

http://agent-006-87.smugmug.com/Other/HDR/IMG05874213tonemapped/707503152_5CVaR-L.jpg
18-55mm IS - 23mm , f/22.0, 1s, 200ISO
http://agent-006-87.smugmug.com/Other/The-woods/IMG0087/662998765_9YEai-L.jpg
18-55mm IS - 30mm , f/5.6, 1/60, 200ISO

http://agent-006-87.smugmug.com/Other/Olivers-Baptism-08082009/IMG0073/615325066_uWGtb-L.jpg

18-55mm IS - 18mm , f/8.0, 1/8, 400ISO (handheld - and tilt-shift effect applied in CS4)
http://agent-006-87.smugmug.com/Other/Random/IMG0029/739754545_mr63X-L.jpg

18-55mm IS - 18mm , f/5.6, 1/60, 200ISO (just after a rainfall in Algonquin Park, Ontario)

http://agent-006-87.smugmug.com/Nature/Algonquin-Park-Boys-Camping/IMG0297/571366097_skz7X-L.jpg
Click to expand...
Nice pictures. They seem to indicate you're a wideangleguy. So I'd suggest to start in that direction.
Like a better kit (the 2.8?) or even better a UWA zoom (like 10-20mm).
--
All in my humble opionion of course!

If I seem to talk nonsense or you can't understand me, it's probably my English :)
 
The first thing to do would probably to get lenses that allow you to take photos you want to take, but can't. Only when you've got that should you upgrade from existing lenses that are serving you well.

A lot of the photos are at 18mm so I presume you'd benefit from an ultra wide angle - the Canon 10-22 leaps to mind, or the Sigma if you like bang-for-buck solutions. If you want photograph inside then the 11-16 2.8 appears on the shortlist too.

Are a lot of your photos at 250mm? If so one of the -400 zooms would be an idea.

The 50 1.8 might be a good buy along with a 52mm reversing ring (and a 58mm for the kit lens too while you're at it). This would enable portraits of bugs and creepy crawlies. If you're not into that stuff then putting the money towards the 17-55 2.8 might be better.

My preferred upgrade path would be:
18-55 IS
55-250IS
50mm 1.8 + reversing rings and cheap extension tubes.
Sigma 10-20
17-55 2.8 for the larger aperture.

If I was still playing a lot of sport I'd have got the 70-200 f4
 
Hi

Yes i agree.............you are indeed getting some very fine results from your currently lenses.

The 17-55 is a fine and sharp lens everybody reports; if you are sure you're not tempted to go full-frame.......................soon?

I own the 70-200 myself, and allthough i don't use it as much as i could, i'm very satisfied with it: tack-sharp, half the weight of the f/2,8 and about half the price. As i'm not shooting indoor sport or concerts, the f/4 is fine for my type of photografi: mostly landscape and once and a while a "not-so-shy-animal"

If you are very, very critical maybe good primes would be worth considering.....................?.............just to confuse you..............:-))

Regards Mogens Werth

http://mwerth.smugmug.com/
 
I've bought and sold quite a few lenses since I started getting into it.

I started all expensive L primes, then switched to the most expensive L zooms,
then sold them for the cheaper but nice L zooms and I am finally happy.

The lenses I have now cover the full range I need and are very sharp and very light weight.

Canon 5D, 24-105 f/4L IS, 70-200 f/4L IS, and 2x tele converter and a 35L 1.4 just in case.

Replaced these from my bag: 28-300L, 100-400L, 24L, 50/1.4, 85/1.8, 100L, 200L,400L

I found that F/2.8 and f/1.4 lenses are less useful to me as I generally am shooting near F/8 to keep more of the subject in focus. I don’t want to fight for AF to be perfect and maybe get the ears not eyes in the focus plane at f/2. It is for this reason, I love all my F/8 portraits, and I do not like most of my f/1.4 portraits.

The f/8 photo I can enlarge to 52" and look perfectly in focus where the same photo I took at f/1.4 looks off focus at any size.

--
-Steve
 
I tried my same lenses on my Rebel XSi and my 5D and the differance was not as much as I thought it would be. I didn't do a thurough test, I just snapped a few shots with plenty of light and medium iso. Both cameras were impressive for certain on the lenses. The crop factor was the real differance.

PS: I think the 70-200 L is better IQ than the 55-250 lens I think, but I have not used them side by side. I know the 70-200L is the probably the sharpest zoom. It's 99% as sharp as my L primes for sure. My eyes can not tell the diff even at 100%, only can see it in some scientific testing meters.

Times are tough now so I bought the non IS version 70-200 f/4L since it's only $500 for the sharpest white zoom canon makes!

--
-Steve
 
Why do you think you need it?

I do NOT think anyone need IS on a wide angle lens like 10-20mm.

If you follow the normal usage, you can use 1/10 of second at 10mm without camera shake affecting photo. So, if you plan to shoot 1/2 (0.5) second shutter speeds you better bring a tripod instead of using IS all the time.

Someone else wana chime in on this?

-Steve
Agent00687 said:
Rolfhome said:
Very nice pictures

Why not go wider like a 10-20, or extention tubes to play macro with?
Click to expand...
thank you, but that lens doesn't have IS, and i need IS as i like to hand-hold as much as possible.
Click to expand...
--
-Steve
 
I think you're wrong on this. I just took my XSi with 18-55mm IS lens and took a few pics with IS on and then without at 1/10 of a Corona bottle on my desk at ISO 800.

Guess what?

With IS off the photos are blurry, and very sharp with it on.

its not that i am unsteady and shake..especially considering i'm home and not outside on a hike and thus breathing harder, etc.

so yeah..if i had the 10-22mm and i needed a lower shutter speed, then IS would be invaluable...especially considering that my 'blurry' images weren't really so bad..something i might not have noticed if i didn't zoom in. I can't stand OOF pictures..so IS is essential.
Stephen Christie said:
I do NOT think anyone need IS on a wide angle lens like 10-20mm.

If you follow the normal usage, you can use 1/10 of second at 10mm without camera shake affecting photo. So, if you plan to shoot 1/2 (0.5) second shutter speeds you better bring a tripod instead of using IS all the time.

Someone else wana chime in on this?

-Steve
Agent00687 said:
Rolfhome said:
Very nice pictures

Why not go wider like a 10-20, or extention tubes to play macro with?
Click to expand...
thank you, but that lens doesn't have IS, and i need IS as i like to hand-hold as much as possible.
Click to expand...
--
-Steve
Click to expand...
 
You are confirming what I said then.

IS was only necessary if you often shoot at very slow shutter speeds. if you really want to shoot at 1/10 ovten, and then a tripod / monopod and IS should be your plan. Even with IS 1/10 can be a challenge for some lenses and people.

I don’t know many times when that slow shutter speed (1/10) is desirable for hand held use, but it's your photo not mine.

However, it is universally accepted method of photography to say that wide angle lenses already allow very low shutter speeds by their design.

So, I think of IS as a luxury not necessary for Wide angle lenses. Zoom lenses like 55-250 that go past wide angle, into normal, or telephoto will definitely benefit form IS.

Using a 200mm lens would typically require using a 1/200 shutter speed and 200 ISO and to go slower shutter speed would usually require IS.

However a 20mm lens at 1/20 of second should be equally steady from your camera shake as the 200 at 1/200.

I have used my 70-200 f/4 (non IS) lens at 1/25 fine, at 1/15 I only keep 1 of 3 shots sharp, at 1/2 sec I only keep 1 of 4 shots sharp. I'm sure it would be much easier to shoot at slow shutter speeds with IS, but is it worth double the money?
I dont think so for me.

But back to the subject, the wide angle lenses "could" bennefit from IS, but it's a bit like vanity to demand it.

-Steve
Agent00687 said:
I think you're wrong on this. I just took my XSi with 18-55mm IS lens and took a few pics with IS on and then without at 1/10 of a Corona bottle on my desk at ISO 800.

Guess what?

With IS off the photos are blurry, and very sharp with it on.

its not that i am unsteady and shake..especially considering i'm home and not outside on a hike and thus breathing harder, etc.

so yeah..if i had the 10-22mm and i needed a lower shutter speed, then IS would be invaluable...especially considering that my 'blurry' images weren't really so bad..something i might not have noticed if i didn't zoom in. I can't stand OOF pictures..so IS is essential.
Stephen Christie said:
I do NOT think anyone need IS on a wide angle lens like 10-20mm.

If you follow the normal usage, you can use 1/10 of second at 10mm without camera shake affecting photo. So, if you plan to shoot 1/2 (0.5) second shutter speeds you better bring a tripod instead of using IS all the time.

Someone else wana chime in on this?

-Steve
Agent00687 said:
Rolfhome said:
Very nice pictures

Why not go wider like a 10-20, or extention tubes to play macro with?
Click to expand...
thank you, but that lens doesn't have IS, and i need IS as i like to hand-hold as much as possible.
Click to expand...
--
-Steve
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
--
-Steve
 
You should consider the need to use more narrow like f/8 aperture and center dot AF point on AI Servo and continuous drive mode when shooting slow shutter speed.
  • The AF point center is the most accurate.
  • The AI Server keeps focusing as you slightly move.
  • The Continuous drive mode saves multiple photos fast and this matters because at slow shutter speeds many people get blurry photos from the hands movement of pushing the shutter button. That's why many people use a tripod AND a shutter release cable for slow shutter speeds.
  • Shooting more narrow F stop; f/2.8 at iso 800 vs f/4 at iso 1600 often gives a much better photo as more of the subject remains in focus during the shot and makes your hand movement blur less obvious.
--
-Steve
 
Stephen Christie said:
You are confirming what I said then.
Click to expand...
actually i'm not.
Stephen Christie said:
IS was only necessary if you often shoot at very slow shutter speeds. if you really want to shoot at 1/10 ovten, and then a tripod / monopod and IS should be your plan. Even with IS 1/10 can be a challenge for some lenses and people.
Click to expand...
see that's my point. i don't want to use a tripod/monopad if i can successfully take pics at 1/10 with IS and i believe i can.
Stephen Christie said:
I don’t know many times when that slow shutter speed (1/10) is desirable for hand held use, but it's your photo not mine.
Click to expand...
my philosophy is to use natural / ambient light as much as possible, and using flash or tripod if necessary.
Stephen Christie said:
I have used my 70-200 f/4 (non IS) lens at 1/25 fine.
Click to expand...
i agree with this. i tried 1/25 no IS and 1/25 with IS and they looked the same. Its possible that outside it might be different..
Stephen Christie said:
But back to the subject, the wide angle lenses "could" bennefit from IS, but it's a bit like vanity to demand it.
Click to expand...
really? i'm also financially hands-tied. But i have no doubt that there will come times with low-light that IS is very beneficial and will get you that shot, that you otherwise would miss.

Thanks for your advice/comments. I do appreciate it, and I am learning quite a bit just from reading yours and other people's experiences. :)
Stephen Christie said:
Agent00687 said:
I think you're wrong on this. I just took my XSi with 18-55mm IS lens and took a few pics with IS on and then without at 1/10 of a Corona bottle on my desk at ISO 800.

Guess what?

With IS off the photos are blurry, and very sharp with it on.

its not that i am unsteady and shake..especially considering i'm home and not outside on a hike and thus breathing harder, etc.

so yeah..if i had the 10-22mm and i needed a lower shutter speed, then IS would be invaluable...especially considering that my 'blurry' images weren't really so bad..something i might not have noticed if i didn't zoom in. I can't stand OOF pictures..so IS is essential.
Stephen Christie said:
I do NOT think anyone need IS on a wide angle lens like 10-20mm.

If you follow the normal usage, you can use 1/10 of second at 10mm without camera shake affecting photo. So, if you plan to shoot 1/2 (0.5) second shutter speeds you better bring a tripod instead of using IS all the time.

Someone else wana chime in on this?

-Steve
Agent00687 said:
Rolfhome said:
Very nice pictures

Why not go wider like a 10-20, or extention tubes to play macro with?
Click to expand...
thank you, but that lens doesn't have IS, and i need IS as i like to hand-hold as much as possible.
Click to expand...
--
-Steve
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
--
-Steve
Click to expand...
 
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