External Speedlight Experience?

CK, Please point me to the Nikon specs you're referring to. My
experience and the manual (pg 21) tells me that the flash starts,
and stops in synch with the master speedlight when the SB30 is set
to slave A.
FJBrad,

It is on Nikon's SB30 site. It says "TTL Auto flash, Non-TTL Auto
flash (4 steps), Manual Mode (3 steps) and Wireless flash (A or M
only)" Therefore, wireless can only be used in the A or M. These
two modes are not TTL. Unlike the SB80DX and SB28 plus SU-4, the
SB30 does not respond to the TTL information.
"...and Wireless flash (A or M only)" begs the question It doesn't specify non-TTL auto, nor does it specify TTL auto. It's a moot point because only pseudo-TTL (no film plane) is available anyway.
Traditional TTL has a meter measuring the light bounced off from
the film plane. In the digital world, because the CCD is not
reflective enough and some other reasons, the traditional
off-the-film plan trick does not work well. As a result, a
preflash is used. In the wireless A and M modes, a flash only
needs to synchronize the second, real flash. The on-flash sensor
cuts off its power. The slave mode of the Sunpak PZ5000 AF works
this way. I believe the SB30 would be the same.
The slave mode of your PZ5000 AF operates in the same way as my SB26, I believe. The slave sensor triggers the flash, but the PZ5000 or SB26 control the flash duration internally determined by ISO and aperture info manually fed into them, and their own light sensor.

The SB30 is quite different in that the slave sensor not only senses the master flash and begins the flash exposure in response, it also senses when the master flash quenches and quenches in sync with it. Which is why placement of the SB30 relative to the master flash is so critical. It must receive a clear and unambiguous quench signal (the master flash cutting out) (and without it's own reflected light poluting the quench signal) from the camera's flash, in order to quench in sync. Effectively TTL (exposure controlled by camera) and not non-TTL auto (flash duration determined by SB30). It's really neither, but if you want to split hairs, fine.

You are, however, incorrect in your assertion that it's the same slave system as your PZ5000AF. It clearly is not.

I've only does extensive testing with the SB30 and a 995 non-preflash CP. In slave-A, the SB30 quenches in sync with the camera until the sensor on the SB30 gets out of direct allignment with the master flash, at which time it will still trigger on cue, but, lacking the ability to unambiguously detect the master flash cutting out, the SB30 flash continues to fire a full duration flash. Just as it would if it were set to manual.

One could argue whether or not it is any better in terms of delivering a correct exposure, when compared to non-TTL auto slave, as with your PZ5000AF or my SB26. The real benefit to the SB30's auto slave is that it works in full auto without any settings (ISO/ Aperture) being made on the camera or flash, and it's full range (not much), is available at any aperture/ISO setting on the camera.
Because the flash
does not recognize the TTL signal (TTL or D-TTL), it is non-TTL. I
believe this is what Nikon means.
It is not non-TTL in the way most people view it.

No CP or other Brand of DC has D-TTL as far as I know, unfortunately. So how could it recognize a D-TTL signal? Are we talking F5 now? As far as TTL, I'll grant you, this is a different system. But it is essentially the same, because it is the camera that is communicating a quench signal. It's not determined by the SB30's light sensor an internal calculations.
Some flashes do not synchronize with cameras with preflash properly
(e.g., Sunpak Digital Flash and Sunpak DS 20) because they fire
when the preflash fires. See my "Slave Firing Tests" page.
I'll take a look at this, as I've had only limited experience with using the DS20 with some preflash DC's.

It may very well be that delay circuitry isn't enough to account for the variance in timelag and # of preflashes among preflash DC's. SR Electronics Digislaves claim broad compatibility. So perhaps they have it figgered out.

Wein is also coming out with slave modules that will have preflash compatibility.

--
Be the pixel.
950/990/995/4500 Mac/PhoSho5.5
FJBrad
 
Which cable are you using...? I am using a SC17 . . .>
That's the one I use. I have other complaints about it:

1. The cable coming from the front blocks the Speedlight when it pops up - I often have to wriggle it around to get it out of the way.

2. The tight coil of the cable can make it hard to get it out of the way - for my use, I'd prefer about a 3-foot-long straight cable that I can easily move where I want it!

--
Jeff Peterman
 
I want to purchase one of the Nikon external speedlights for my
5700 in order to have bounce flash capability. Not clear from any
of the documents or material I have seen, exactly how the 5700
really interfaces with and controls the speedlight. What settings
will work automatically and which have to be set manually? Would
appreciate comments from any users out there who are already doing
this.
--

Cliff: I purchased an 80DX from my local dealer (he beat the internet at $359). I't true that the CP5700 doesn't support a lot of the features that this flash is capable of but I really like the way it operates. It's smaller than the 26 and has a GN of 125/ft. When you zoom the flash to 105mm, you get F4/66' at ISO100. That's perfect for weddings and other indoor shots. I think it's possible to use it as a slave flash. The manual addendum says that the flash doesn't support being slaved by the CP's internal flash but since I can trip the flash using my internal unit, I'll try some slaved shots and see if it's possible using aperature priority on both the camera and the flash. If you have a CP4500, you can connect a cord to the Nikon three pin sync terminal and get the same results. There is also a standard sync connection. The metal shoe with lever lock and pin, makes a very sturdy mount. Setting the flash on auto standby turns the flash to standby when the CP5700 goes on standby. A touch of the shutter button wakes up both the camera and flash. The light is very even and I find I have to cut the exposure back by 1/3EV.
 

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