24 year old Vivitar 285 Flash works on my K-7! Yeah! Look!

Leo James Mitchell

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My old Vivitar 285 Thyristor Flash still works! What scared me and confounded me was that I didn't know whether the voltage it utilizes would fry my K-7 or not! I went to my trusted friend Ron at the Henrys store here in Waterloo and he recommended an SM Voltage Safe Hot Shoe Adapter...the Wein version was not in stock. This was the same price as the Wein @$89.99 Canadian. I took it home with some trepidation.

My grandson came over to visit after school and so I took heart and put the new doodad on the K-7 hotshoe and tested it was working with a test button it has...a red LED comes on if the controlling battery is OK; mounted my Vivitar 285 flash on my Novoflex Flash bracket; connected it to the sync plug on the new doodad; turned on the K-7 and set it to X sync and turned on the flash! So far so good. No smell of burning circuits yet! I set the flash to half power and made the necessary adjustments for the distance involved et al and pointed the flash head at the ceiling for a bounce.

I fired off several shots and still the camera was working! Praise be to the various photography gods!

Here are a couple of the shots that resulted with minor PP'ing, some brightening (maybe too much!) and cropping. I was using the Sigma 105mm EX DG lens at f8, 400 ISO at 1/180.





To say I am pleased is quite an understatement! I now have 2 flashes which includes my Pentax 540 and now the Vivitar 285. To be honest, I understand this old flash better than I do the 540 and I think once I refresh my skills with it, I will make better captures with it. I now understand why so many pro journalists and photographer love(ed) this flash so much! It is a jewel!
Others here who have one from years ago, take hope mates!

Best to all
Leo

--

K-7: Pentax DA* 200mm f2.8, Pentax DA* 55mm f1.4, Pentax DA 35mmm f2.8 Limited, Pentax DA14mm f2.8, Sigma 17-70mm Zoom, Sigma EX DG f2.8 70mm Macro, Sigma 105mm f2.8 EX DG Macro
mitch
 
The old Vivitars seem to go on forever.

Can I make a suggestion that you get hold of a multimeter and check the sync voltage of your 285?

I have two 285HV's and an earlier Japanese 285 (non-HV) and they all have sync voltages under 8 volts.

While there are claims that some early Vivitar 285's had high sync voltages they must be rare because I've yet to see measured evidence of a 285 with a high sync voltage. (don't hold me to this though)

However the original Vivitar 283's did have a high sync voltages and need to be treated with caution.

If your 285 measures under 10volts I'd see if I could return the hotshoe adaptor or at least sell it on eBay and get some of your cash back.

$90 is a lot for an adaptor when you can buy good low voltage sync 285HV's for under $50.00 off eBay.

But yes they are good simple reliable flashes... and the older ones seem much more reliable than the later Chinese re-issues.

The next thing is to get hold of a light stand, umbrella and adaptor and some ebay flash triggers and try some of camera strobist lighting.

http://www.strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html
My old Vivitar 285 Thyristor Flash still works! What scared me and confounded me was that I didn't know whether the voltage it utilizes would fry my K-7 or not! I went to my trusted friend Ron at the Henrys store here in Waterloo and he recommended an SM Voltage Safe Hot Shoe Adapter...the Wein version was not in stock. This was the same price as the Wein @$89.99 Canadian. I took it home with some trepidation.
--
If all else fails... just get a bigger lens!

 
I am all for recycling... I have an old Vivi 3500 that I like to use. But that seems a lot for safe sync for an old flash. You can get a cheap 5 dollar voltmeter and measure the synch voltage. But, like I said I am all about the recycling...

And I bet you are right, that once you dial in the 285 again, you will use it more just from the simplicity aspect!

I think you and the flash did a good job on the first photo , but what is causing all of the noise in the second one? That one can't be ISO 400, is it?

--

Gus --- There are none so blind as those who had no chance to see... stop censoring photos!
 
I have been using a 283 by using a sync cord. I tried the Wein on my previous k100, but found it to be an utter waste of money. Very cheaply made. Voltage is not a problem when using a sync cord.
 
Thanks Pundit, but I think I will keep this little gizmo! Call me crazy but I want to be sure and I don't want to buy a voltmeter and measure etc. I am happy with what this flash and hot-shoe accessory does!

You are right about simplicity...this Vivitar flash is simplicity itself and I still have the manual and the colour filters that came with it! How good is that?! ;-) It works really well!
Thanks for your thoughtfulness mate!

Best regards
Leo

--

K-7: Pentax DA* 200mm f2.8, Pentax DA* 55mm f1.4, Pentax DA 35mmm f2.8 Limited, Pentax DA14mm f2.8, Sigma 17-70mm Zoom, Sigma EX DG f2.8 70mm Macro, Sigma 105mm f2.8 EX DG Macro
mitch
 
Right you are my friend! After I got these captures I made some copies to test out on various softwares and the one I posted in error was over-sharpened in Faststone...my playing around and saving it was the culprit not Faststone, which is a very fine editor and viewer!

Anyway, that's why the noise! Silly and confused Leo! I will post a noiseless one later...like in the morning because I am whacked right now! Maybe a bit fluish! Whatever! Thanks for your comments and observations mate! Always appreciated from you Gus!
Noise aside, isn't he a handsome kid! Smart as a whip too!

Warm regards
Leo
I am all for recycling... I have an old Vivi 3500 that I like to use. But that seems a lot for safe sync for an old flash. You can get a cheap 5 dollar voltmeter and measure the synch voltage. But, like I said I am all about the recycling...

And I bet you are right, that once you dial in the 285 again, you will use it more just from the simplicity aspect!

I think you and the flash did a good job on the first photo , but what is causing all of the noise in the second one? That one can't be ISO 400, is it?

--

Gus --- There are none so blind as those who had no chance to see... stop censoring photos!
--

K-7: Pentax DA* 200mm f2.8, Pentax DA* 55mm f1.4, Pentax DA 35mmm f2.8 Limited, Pentax DA14mm f2.8, Sigma 17-70mm Zoom, Sigma EX DG f2.8 70mm Macro, Sigma 105mm f2.8 EX DG Macro
mitch
 
From what I have read about the Wein, I think you may be right! I am glad they were out of stock! This one is sturdy and doesn't seem at all a piece of junk! I also plan to mount the 285 on my camera directly too, so I will need it! Thanks for telling me that though, because frankly I thought there was danger even if it is connected by the sync cord! I appreciate your knowledge mate! Many thanks for adding your wisdom here!

All the very best
Leo
I have been using a 283 by using a sync cord. I tried the Wein on my previous k100, but found it to be an utter waste of money. Very cheaply made. Voltage is not a problem when using a sync cord.
--

K-7: Pentax DA* 200mm f2.8, Pentax DA* 55mm f1.4, Pentax DA 35mmm f2.8 Limited, Pentax DA14mm f2.8, Sigma 17-70mm Zoom, Sigma EX DG f2.8 70mm Macro, Sigma 105mm f2.8 EX DG Macro
mitch
 
The hotshoe contacts and sync socket are wired together (paralled) inside the flash.

So the voltage at the flash sync socket (that appears on the camera end of the sync cable) will be the same as the sync voltage at the hotshoe contacts.

The sync cord voltage will only not be a problem providing the flash is designed to operate at a low sync voltage.

High voltage flashes will also produce high sync voltages at the sync socket and therefore on the cable.

There were both high and low sync voltage 283's produced.

The only way to be sure of the sync voltage of any older flash unit is to measure it with a voltmeter.
I have been using a 283 by using a sync cord. I tried the Wein on my previous k100, but found it to be an utter waste of money. Very cheaply made. Voltage is not a problem when using a sync cord.
--
If all else fails... just get a bigger lens!

 
Ah Pundit, I thought I wasn't being too careful. It seemed to me, that when I saw a sync plug on the safety hot-shoe device, I fgured that it too could pose a danger to the delicate circuits of the K-7.
I wont measure, I will just use my new little device.
Many thanks to you too Pundit,for imparting your knowledge.

Bery best regards
Leo the sleepy
--

K-7: Pentax DA* 200mm f2.8, Pentax DA* 55mm f1.4, Pentax DA 35mmm f2.8 Limited, Pentax DA14mm f2.8, Sigma 17-70mm Zoom, Sigma EX DG f2.8 70mm Macro, Sigma 105mm f2.8 EX DG Macro
mitch
 
"So the voltage at the flash sync socket (that appears on the camera end of the sync cable) will be the same as the sync voltage at the hotshoe contacts.

The sync cord voltage will only not be a problem providing the flash is designed to operate at a low sync voltage.

High voltage flashes will also produce high sync voltages at the sync socket and therefore on the cable."

Sorry, but you are simply wrong. I have used both Vivitar 283s and studio strobes into my k20's sync port. There is simply not an issue with voltage. My 283'2 are old Japanese models with hight voltage.
 
What did I say that was wrong???

All I said was the flash hotshoe voltage will be the same as the flash sync port voltage... that's it.

It is wrong to assume the flash sync port voltage will be lower than the flash hotshoe voltage... it isn't.

The reason your K20 works is because it can accept high sync voltages at the sync port.

Listen from 6:55
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fZlVEe2y9e4

If you didn't know that before you attached your high voltage 283 then you are lucky that the K20 was designed to handle it.

However many DSLRS cannot accept high sync voltages which can damage the additional sensitive internal circuitry that is connected to the sync port.

Not all manufacturers publish sync voltage limit specs so it is always better to play it safe.

If the sync voltage is high at the hotshoe it will be high at the port.
If it's low at the hotshoe it will be low at the port.

They're both wired together in parallel so they can't be different.

I've yet to see a non-modified flash that has different voltages at the hotshoe versus the sync port.

I've just replaced the plastic hotshoes on my three Vivitar 285's with metal ones and the sync ports are wired directly to the hotshoe contacts.
Sorry, but you are simply wrong. I have used both Vivitar 283s and studio strobes into my k20's sync port. There is simply not an issue with voltage. My 283'2 are old Japanese models with hight voltage.
--
If all else fails... just get a bigger lens!

 
My eyes are not what they should be I guess because I can hardly see noise anymore! But anyway, here is another copy of the shot...see what you think. Oh and if you do respond,please oint out where the noise is worst in the first one. That will help me to recognize noise when I see it (if I can see it at all!!! ;-) )

I ran the previous copy through Noise Ninja and here is the result...smooths the face a little too much but I am only interested in the noise here as a test! Apparently I have to learn to see noise when it is there, if I can! I appreciate any help I can get in this regard.



Warm regards Gus
Leo
--

K-7: Pentax DA* 200mm f2.8, Pentax DA* 55mm f1.4, Pentax DA 35mmm f2.8 Limited, Pentax DA14mm f2.8, Sigma 17-70mm Zoom, Sigma EX DG f2.8 70mm Macro, Sigma 105mm f2.8 EX DG Macro
mitch
 
It would be interesting to hear what GordonBGood would have to say on this matter, wouldn't it! As for me, I will err on the side of prudence!

Cheers
Leo
All I said was the flash hotshoe voltage will be the same as the flash sync port voltage... that's it.

It is wrong to assume the flash sync port voltage will be lower than the flash hotshoe voltage... it isn't.

The reason your K20 works is because it can accept high sync voltages at the sync port.

Listen from 6:55
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fZlVEe2y9e4

If you didn't know that before you attached your high voltage 283 then you are lucky that the K20 was designed to handle it.

However many DSLRS cannot accept high sync voltages which can damage the additional sensitive internal circuitry that is connected to the sync port.

Not all manufacturers publish sync voltage limit specs so it is always better to play it safe.

If the sync voltage is high at the hotshoe it will be high at the port.
If it's low at the hotshoe it will be low at the port.

They're both wired together in parallel so they can't be different.

I've yet to see a non-modified flash that has different voltages at the hotshoe versus the sync port.

I've just replaced the plastic hotshoes on my three Vivitar 285's with metal ones and the sync ports are wired directly to the hotshoe contacts.
Sorry, but you are simply wrong. I have used both Vivitar 283s and studio strobes into my k20's sync port. There is simply not an issue with voltage. My 283'2 are old Japanese models with hight voltage.
--
If all else fails... just get a bigger lens!

--

K-7: Pentax DA* 200mm f2.8, Pentax DA* 55mm f1.4, Pentax DA 35mmm f2.8 Limited, Pentax DA14mm f2.8, Sigma 17-70mm Zoom, Sigma EX DG f2.8 70mm Macro, Sigma 105mm f2.8 EX DG Macro
mitch
 
Hi Joe
Thanks for dropping by and commenting! I appreciate your wit matey!

How spoiled am I then?! I have decided at this late point in my life to buy whatever it is that I desire and can afford without any qualms! My early life was filled with penny-pinching and debt but now I am OK! So the price of the hot-shoe safety adapter is of little consequence to me.

As for Faststone, it is among the several editors I have including Lightroom, PSE7 and Corel Paint Shop Pro X2 Ultimate...oh and ACDSee Pro 2.5. Sometimes I fool around with each to see what results and sometimes I get noisy pics! It seems though that, either I don't see noise as 'noise' or I equate it with grain from my old days with Tri-X or I just can't see well anymore! No matter! I still enjoy my shooting, love my K-7 and can't get really exercised about noise as many do! I just can't!
Right you are my friend! After I got these captures I made some copies to test out on various softwares and the one I posted in error was over-sharpened in Faststone...my playing around and saving it was the culprit not Faststone, which is a very fine editor and viewer!
Expensiver adapter and free image editor--I say you're about even.

;^)

Joe
--



http://www.flickr.com/photos/jotor/sets/72157603857531887/show/
--

K-7: Pentax DA* 200mm f2.8, Pentax DA* 55mm f1.4, Pentax DA 35mmm f2.8 Limited, Pentax DA14mm f2.8, Sigma 17-70mm Zoom, Sigma EX DG f2.8 70mm Macro, Sigma 105mm f2.8 EX DG Macro
mitch
 
From what I have read about the Wein, I think you may be right! I am glad they were out of stock! This one is sturdy and doesn't seem at all a piece of junk! I also plan to mount the 285 on my camera directly too, so I will need it! Thanks for telling me that though, because frankly I thought there was danger even if it is connected by the sync cord! I appreciate your knowledge mate! Many thanks for adding your wisdom here!

All the very best
Leo
I have been using a 283 by using a sync cord. I tried the Wein on my previous k100, but found it to be an utter waste of money. Very cheaply made. Voltage is not a problem when using a sync cord.
colesf's advice is proof that 'I read it on the internet' does not make it true.

Actually, using the PC cord is the same as having the flash in the hotshoe.

Think about it . . .

Either way you are triggering a high voltage flash from the camera using the same capacitor inside the camera.

It makes no difference if placed in the hotshoe or triggered from the PC socket.

Continue using your safe sync.

I also have three Vivitar 283's that I use with my Pentax DSLR's and Wein safe sync.

--
J. D.
Colorado



I do understand its a Jeep thing . . . thats why I bought a Dodge!
 
Sorry, but you are simply wrong. I have used both Vivitar 283s and studio strobes into my k20's sync port. There is simply not an issue with voltage. My 283'2 are old Japanese models with hight voltage.
They will fire, but don't let this mislead you into thinking that you are not doing any harm to your cameras.
  • EDIT:
After reading another post below the above posts, it has been pointed out that the K20D can handle higher trigger voltage.

But most other DSLR's can't.

--
J. D.
Colorado
 
This good to have more corroberation and I really appreciate you taking the time to respond! I thought this in the first place, which is why I used the safety device despite the fact that the 285 was not directly attached to the camera's hot-shoe! Always better safe than sorry!

Very best regards Doc
Leo
From what I have read about the Wein, I think you may be right! I am glad they were out of stock! This one is sturdy and doesn't seem at all a piece of junk! I also plan to mount the 285 on my camera directly too, so I will need it! Thanks for telling me that though, because frankly I thought there was danger even if it is connected by the sync cord! I appreciate your knowledge mate! Many thanks for adding your wisdom here!

All the very best
Leo
I have been using a 283 by using a sync cord. I tried the Wein on my previous k100, but found it to be an utter waste of money. Very cheaply made. Voltage is not a problem when using a sync cord.
colesf's advice is proof that 'I read it on the internet' does not make it true.

Actually, using the PC cord is the same as having the flash in the hotshoe.

Think about it . . .

Either way you are triggering a high voltage flash from the camera using the same capacitor inside the camera.

It makes no difference if placed in the hotshoe or triggered from the PC socket.

Continue using your safe sync.

I also have three Vivitar 283's that I use with my Pentax DSLR's and Wein safe sync.

--
J. D.
Colorado



I do understand its a Jeep thing . . . thats why I bought a Dodge!
--

K-7: Pentax DA* 200mm f2.8, Pentax DA* 55mm f1.4, Pentax DA 35mmm f2.8 Limited, Pentax DA14mm f2.8, Sigma 17-70mm Zoom, Sigma EX DG f2.8 70mm Macro, Sigma 105mm f2.8 EX DG Macro
mitch
 
The reason your K20 works is because it can accept high sync voltages at the sync port.

If you didn't know that before you attached your high voltage 283 then you are lucky that the K20 was designed to handle it.
I didn't know this about the K20D.

Do you know if this also true of the K10D or *ist DS?

--
J. D.
Colorado
 

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