voigtlander lens for m4/3

Tim in upstate NY said:

. . . Good information, thanks. I've been thinking abouit getting a gorilla pod anyway and maybe it'll be useful when out hiking with the FD 70-210/4. Did you ever stop yours down some when the light and DOF concerns allowed you to make the focus a little less critical?

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Tried between f/8 and f/16. If we use the sunny 16 rule as a guide line, then at ISO 100 and f/16 the shutter speed would be around 1/100. For a hand-held 200mm lens we need shutter speed below 1/400, so we have to open the aperture 2 stops to f/8, or increase ISO to 400. So the smallest practical apertures are f/8-f/16, depending on the ISO. I tried several of these combinations in the field conditions (not a lab test), and the differences are insignificant from the practical stand point.

For me the long zoom was a temporary money-saving solution from the start. The lens protrudes far when mounted with adapter, and is cumbersome to operate. The whole thing is a far less elegant solution that the Lumix 45-200. I bought into µ4/3 because of the size, weight, and convenience of the manual focus. If a lens does not satisfy these criteria then I am not going to put much effort into working around its problems.

The shutter opens ... and when enough light has been collected ... it closes again.

.
Francis
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c a o n: a.6.5.0 + o l y (m) p u s: e.4.0.0

Usually in practice, I'll just set the hyperfocal distance empirically. And I'm usually using the 28mm lens so that helps a LOT. I'll pick an aperture that gives me the shutter that I want, then I'll either...

1) focus on something far away (infinity), coming up on it from the near side. I use the 10x zoom mag. As soon as it is acceptable, I stop, That gives me infinity and as close as is possible at that aperture. Then I swing it around and see if that is going to be OK for closer objects. Usually on the 28mm, even at f/3.5 it is fine. After a while you get a feel for it. With the 28mm and f/3.5 you can get from infnity to may;be 15 feet. By f/8 it is infinity to about 5 feet, so it is very forgiving.

2) If not, then I'll focus on something closer where I want the center of the in focus range to be and forget infinity, or stop down until it looks OK. For example, I've shot some runners this way from between 50 and 3 feet away, it is nice not having to focus, even if the camera had super fast focus and it is hard to keep the focus spot on the runners during a burst.

Probably hyperfocal is not going to be of much use on a 200mm lens, there just isn't a lot of depth of field anyway, and like you say you want to open it up to keep the shutter speed up.

Tortellino said:

Tried between f/8 and f/16. If we use the sunny 16 rule as a guide line, then at ISO 100 and f/16 the shutter speed would be around 1/100. For a hand-held 200mm lens we need shutter speed below 1/400, so we have to open the aperture 2 stops to f/8, or increase ISO to 400. So the smallest practical apertures are f/8-f/16, depending on the ISO. I tried several of these combinations in the field conditions (not a lab test), and the differences are insignificant from the practical stand point.

For me the long zoom was a temporary money-saving solution from the start. The lens protrudes far when mounted with adapter, and is cumbersome to operate. The whole thing is a far less elegant solution that the Lumix 45-200. I bought into µ4/3 because of the size, weight, and convenience of the manual focus. If a lens does not satisfy these criteria then I am not going to put much effort into working around its problems.

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. . . You're giving me a lot of food for thought Tortellino. First thing to say is that I bought the FD 70-210/4 on Ebay for only $35. . . heh heh.

. . . The Pany 45-200/4-5.6 OIS was a lens that I was aware of but somehow I never realized that it's only $284 (Adorama).. . . my bad.

. . . Just read the slrgear review of it and once again. . . . my bad.

. . . So I see now see that I can get a lens with AF and IS that tested out pretty good at slrgear and that's about 2 inches shorter and a lot lighter in weight than the cheapo FD and it's only $284.

I'm getting it!

Thanks again.

i was sick and away from this thread a few days..

so, if the camera cannot set the aperture at M mode... i could not get any indication (like my g9) if the shutter i set is fine or not..

true?

the thread is also a bit off the topic...

any sharing about the selection of 40/1.4, 35/1.4 and 35 skopar and 50/1.1?