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Does FW 1.0.9 effect AFM settings?

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Zeee

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I think so. My other lenses are different as well.

This was taken with my 300L & 1.4 and my second 7D, FW 1.0.7. Lens align told me 0 for AFM.



FW 1.0.9

Lens Align is telling me +5

0





+5





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I have made my decision. Don't confuse me with the facts.
 
At one point during the process I thought it needed +10. I just took another at +5 and it front focused. That was probably why I thought it needed +10. Not sure what is going on here.



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I have made my decision. Don't confuse me with the facts.
 
At which distance do you test. By looking at your samples I am wondering if you are much too close to the lens. On a 300mm lens you should be 12 Meters/36 feet from the target...
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I was not that far. Maybe 20'. If you follow Canon's recommendation it would be closer to 50' I think. However many variations to that. Some say half the distance is OK, etc. I think even the Lens Align fellow says shorter distances are OK but could mistaken on that one. Maybe that is what is causing my grief. My lot is only 40' wide and my house does not go to the ends. :) I would have get the long ruler kit and find a hall, old warehouse or something that l guess.

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I have made my decision. Don't confuse me with the facts.
 
I forgot to mention those were crops to better see the ruler and the dot. Here is an original from one of the shots.



--
I have made my decision. Don't confuse me with the facts.
 
I'm thinking two things... shoot the target with a flash.. and I think you want to

close the red target down by sliding the gate down... this keeps the camera from
possible focus on the red dot...

also make sure the aperture is wide open...
 
I have the aperture wide open. Never thought of the flash and yes I did get a little lazy with the target. If it did focus on the red dot would it not be grossly out?

Thanks for the reply.

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I have made my decision. Don't confuse me with the facts.
 
yes, I would think that if the AF hit the red dot it would be a gross AF failure...

I spent one whole day doing the MAF adjustments and I'm getting very good results and now I'm going to be doing the firmware upgrade so I'm going to start over again.. :-(

this time, I'm going to use flash and I'm going to use the EOS utility with my laptop so I'm not messing around with so many pictures... I've got about 15 lenses to do and thats alot of shots... I also plan on doing my 5DII the same day or two... and get this out of the way too...

One thing that did suprise me the other day while I was adjusting the lenses, was just how much each lens looked different... not how they landed on the focus target but how much each was different with color,contrast and such... some
of my lenses were way above the others in quality output.. that suprised me as

I had not seen that much difference when the lenses were mounted on the other cameras that I have... its almost like the 7D loves very good lenses and the lenses that aren't so very good it shows them up even more... I'll be taking better notes when I start the process over again next week.
Thats why I want to do the 7D and 5DII as the same time so I can see again if
the 7D is more critical with lens quality output....

Also of note... after I did the MAF adjustments on a few lenses I went ahead and

shot the target with different apertures.. just wanted to see just how sharp I could get the whole target... again I was suprised by how much the AF shifts
when you do this.... I need to chart it out so I understand whats going on...

I'm sure once I chart it out it should show that the focus is just expanding the dof... just want to make sure the window is moving in the correct direction.. backwards from the front focal plane...

I have to say though... I think the 7D is a great camera, I'm getting very nice

results out of it and think I can squeeze a little more out of it after I get it fine
tuned...
 
OK I slid down that thing to cover the red hole and used my flash. Here are five consecutive shots after managing the best I could to tune it. Tripod & mirror lockup. I rotated the lens focus clockwise and counter clockwise between each shot. If someone can tell me how to show the focus point on Mac I would. PC was easy. Not sure how to do a screen shot and GRAB just closes the image on DPP. And yes I had the IS off.

OK for football games at 12,800 ISO but not so good at fine detail.











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I have made my decision. Don't confuse me with the facts.
 
Zee Char said:
someone can tell me how to show the focus point on Mac I would. PC was easy. Not sure how to do a screen shot and GRAB just closes the image on DPP. And yes I had the IS off.
Click to expand...
See if this works.

command-shift-3: capture screen to file
command-fn-shift-3: capture screen to clipboard
command-shift-4: capture selection to file
command-fn-shift-4: capture selection to keyboard

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Thanks. I just needed the first step. Covering a large area. At first I thought maybe I should be using spot AF but then I realized that using Lens Align is a flat plane and it moves around as well when I am adjusting. I swear to god when I got my replacement 7D this all went away until I installed 1.0.9.



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I have made my decision. Don't confuse me with the facts.
 
OK so here is a bird that is too small in the frame but after cropping I can see when I get more bird in the frame it will be OK. 7D #2 FW 1.0.7. I only took about a dozen images in Zone AF center cluster and all were good.

Shutter speed 1/8000





Here is one and I took of about 50 images that all came out the same except for one which was acceptable. FW 1.0.9 Zone AF center cluster.

Shutter speed 1/2500





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I have made my decision. Don't confuse me with the facts.
 
Your work sounds very methodical. Keep us posted. Someone is going to come up with an answer. A this point I believe it is programing and not a mechanical issue.

-
I have made my decision. Don't confuse me with the facts.
 
Thanks. I did read that before but I will go through it again an read it more carefully. .

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I have made my decision. Don't confuse me with the facts.
 
300L F4 IS.
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I have made my decision. Don't confuse me with the facts.
 
Zee,

Do you have two 7D bodies? If so, do you only have the focus issue on one of them? I'm asking because up until now, everyone who's reported focus issues and tried two bodies has seen the focus issue on both bodies.

Everyone has a different methodology, tolerance, subject distance, lenses, etc.. for measuring focus so I'm trying to figure out if the variance of focus issues from one person/body to the next is subjective or objective. Put another way, it's unclear if the owners reporting good copies really have good copies or if they just performing different tests and/or have different thresholds for what results they deem acceptable.

It would be a great data point if someone had two bodies subjected to the same set of tests and analysis but where only one of the bodies exhibited focusing problems.
Zee Char said:
I think so. My other lenses are different as well.

This was taken with my 300L & 1.4 and my second 7D, FW 1.0.7. Lens align told me 0 for AFM.
Click to expand...
 
No. Only one but this is my second one. The first had what I would call a noticeable issue. The second one the issue is trying to get the darn thing stable when using Lens Align.

Here is what I tried tonight. I set up lens align again and my 300L. No flash this time. I was wondering if the AF is so sensitive that slight changes in light affect it. I believe I read that the focus works with exposure on the 7D. Not sure it an incandescent light which I have just above the lens align has a flicker like fluorescent. I also have a few spot lights in the basement. Anyway that is for future conversation.

I used spot metering and I made sure the spot was did not touch the circle where you see the red dot. Just below. Even with it back slider closed I wondered if the the system is detecting something other than the flat plane. Even with the dot centered and in live view X10 I could see an edge on the bottom left corner but not on the upper right. The light bulb is to the upper right of the Lens Align.

I did a series of shots and it was far more stable. Then I when off spot and back to center and it too appeared more stable but not as good as the spot metering so I'm not sure if this did anything.

I went back to Spot off the center and did my adjustments with that. Results again were -3. This is what I had on my 50D and first 7D. My second 7D seemed happy at 0 but after FW 10.0.9 everything went wacky. As I stated before it was telling me +2 and I was having trouble getting sharp birding shots and that evening. I had to shoot a football game that evening so I went back to the trusty -3 on my 300L and they were great.

As far as the birding it may have been me. I shot Zone center cluster. All but one were OFF. However I used zone center cluster when I had FW 1.0.7 (second 7D) and most were in focus and it was effortless.

The only thing I can think of is with FW 1.0.7 the ISO was 1/8000. FW 1.0.9 was with 1/2500. You would think at 1/2500 I would have gotten a few more IF shots. Never had issues with the 50D and birding.

So anyone with Lens Align out there who have this issue can you try the spot meter off the center circle method and see if it makes a difference. Take a half dozen shots and see if the scale looks the same for each exposure .

Thanks in advance.

--
I have made my decision. Don't confuse me with the facts.
 
Hmm...hard to understand how the metering mode could affect AF accuracy (esp for a manually selected AF point) but I'm open to anything. Can you try manual exposure? Exposure lock? I was using aperture priority for my tests but I'll try spot today.
Zee Char said:
No. Only one but this is my second one. The first had what I would call a noticeable issue. The second one the issue is trying to get the darn thing stable when using Lens Align.

Here is what I tried tonight. I set up lens align again and my 300L. No flash this time. I was wondering if the AF is so sensitive that slight changes in light affect it. I believe I read that the focus works with exposure on the 7D. Not sure it an incandescent light which I have just above the lens align has a flicker like fluorescent. I also have a few spot lights in the basement. Anyway that is for future conversation.

I used spot metering and I made sure the spot was did not touch the circle where you see the red dot. Just below. Even with it back slider closed I wondered if the the system is detecting something other than the flat plane. Even with the dot centered and in live view X10 I could see an edge on the bottom left corner but not on the upper right. The light bulb is to the upper right of the Lens Align.

I did a series of shots and it was far more stable. Then I when off spot and back to center and it too appeared more stable but not as good as the spot metering so I'm not sure if this did anything.

I went back to Spot off the center and did my adjustments with that. Results again were -3. This is what I had on my 50D and first 7D. My second 7D seemed happy at 0 but after FW 10.0.9 everything went wacky. As I stated before it was telling me +2 and I was having trouble getting sharp birding shots and that evening. I had to shoot a football game that evening so I went back to the trusty -3 on my 300L and they were great.

As far as the birding it may have been me. I shot Zone center cluster. All but one were OFF. However I used zone center cluster when I had FW 1.0.7 (second 7D) and most were in focus and it was effortless.

The only thing I can think of is with FW 1.0.7 the ISO was 1/8000. FW 1.0.9 was with 1/2500. You would think at 1/2500 I would have gotten a few more IF shots. Never had issues with the 50D and birding.

So anyone with Lens Align out there who have this issue can you try the spot meter off the center circle method and see if it makes a difference. Take a half dozen shots and see if the scale looks the same for each exposure .

Thanks in advance.

--
I have made my decision. Don't confuse me with the facts.
Click to expand...
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