That's a great resource. Thanks for the link. This dandelion chip looks risky to install. According to the manufacturer, "Specially designed Alignment Tool and
I have an adaptor already assembled by jinfinance of ebay with dandelion chip. It works fine so far. Really, we're not talking about a Leica M9 level of cost. I have only an E-330 and an E-510 and even the new models, the E-520 and E-620 are depreciating in new value every day, much less these older models.
Not sure what you mean here. For a DSLR with a mirror, focus screen, prism and an OVF, or multiple mirrors, 2nd sensor and an EVF like the E-330 has, the OVF is showing what the lens/sensor sees wide open at the min f-stop. The lens stops down to the chosen aperture only when the shutter is tripped. The OVF shows a minimum DOF at the widest aperture. The actual DOF will be larger if the aperture is stopped down at all. If it's in focus through the OVF the image should be in focus on the sensor at the same time if everything is aligned properly. The image will have a wider DOF at any aperture smaller than wide open. Not the other way around, as you said.
No, you don't understand. Depth of Focus is not Depth of Field. Depth of Field is at the subject end. Depth of Focus is at the sensor end.
To see the aparent DOF you press the DOF button. The image gets darker at small apertures so it can be hard to see.
Depth of Field has nothing to do with Depth of Focus in the context of my discussion. Depth of Field is understood by you and me quite clearly. As you explain in the concepts above.
What you have not agreed with me is Depth of Focus. Depth of Focus is how the focussing screen reacts. The old film focussing screens in the SLRs had a shallow Depth of Focus. The screen and viewfinder was already quite bright, all they had to do was to spread the light a bit evenly so they used a fresnel lens concept. When you focus an Olympus OM-1 or my Minolta X-700 film SLR, you move the focussing ring slowly and the the image "crystallises" or "pixellates" in the OVF - it snaps into sharpness with a minor turn of the focussing ring. Or out of focus as you keep turning the ring.
With Four Thirds mirror size and penta mirror approach, they are fighting for as much light as possible. If you manage to cut an OM-1 screen and stick it into our E-330 and E-510, you will find the viewfinder very dim and difficult to see and small. So what Olympus does is to play with the fresnel and micro surface of the focussing screen to gain more brightness. They gain brightness by sacrificing the clear point at which the focussing screen "snaps" in and out of focus. This means that for some turn of the focussing ring, your eye cannot see at which point the image is sharp. So this is called Deep(er) Depth of Focus - you are uncertain when the image is sharp. The sensor on the other hand does not care about visual tricks - it has no mirror, the lens directly shines on it. If you use Liveview B, magnification 10x, you can clearly see the image snap in and out of focus on the LCD screen.
After all these words, there is no proof without doing yourself. If you take a 25mm f/2.8 manual focus lens, and simply use the OVF to focus, you will get maybe 1 in 5 sharp even though you think it is sharp in the OVF. If you use LiveView B and the LCD screen, you will get 100% 5 out of 5 shots sharp.
Search the posts if you like primarily in the Olympus SLR Talk or other forums for disgruntled users complaining bitterly about this phenomena and some explanations.
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Ananda
http://anandasim.blogspot.com/ 
