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Filter Question -- Nevada desert

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RLH1861

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Iiwll be going to Las Vegas andplan to go out to Valley of Fire and Red Rock. Will be using my 40D with Tokina 12-24mm WA (original model) or my 70-200mm f4 L IS

I have always kep 1A skylight filter on these lenses.

I would think that a polarizing filter would be very effective in the desert. I recently discovered the Calumet Photo store here in suburban Chicago and want to go there to try out some of their filters. On their website I see that they have two lines of filters (store brand) -- MC for multicoated and "T" for traditional (uncoated). the MC line seems to cost almost double.

I would love your recommendations for filters. Can I get a filter that is "slim" enough not to show on the wide angle lens. Is the coating necessary?

I ocnfess to have no knowledge on this issue

Thanks
 
RLH1861 said:
Iiwll be going to Las Vegas andplan to go out to Valley of Fire and Red Rock. Will be using my 40D with Tokina 12-24mm WA (original model) or my 70-200mm f4 L IS

I have always kep 1A skylight filter on these lenses.

I would think that a polarizing filter would be very effective in the desert.
Click to expand...
The thing you have to watch for with CPs & wide angle lenses is the sky. A nice blue sky will often exhibit banding, ruining the image. If it's overcast or if you limit the amount of sky in your photos, it shouldn't be a problem. I've never shot in the desert before, but you might also consider an ND filter.
RLH1861 said:
I recently discovered the Calumet Photo store here in suburban Chicago and want to go there to try out some of their filters. On their website I see that they have two lines of filters (store brand) -- MC for multicoated and "T" for traditional (uncoated). the MC line seems to cost almost double.
Click to expand...
Calumet is a reputable company. I've never had any trouble with them
RLH1861 said:
I would love your recommendations for filters. Can I get a filter that is "slim" enough not to show on the wide angle lens. Is the coating necessary?
Click to expand...
Yes. Hoya has (or had...I haven't bought one in a few years...) a line of slim filters that also allow one to use a lens cap. I see a very small degree of vignetting at 10mm (1.6 crop), which can be easily corrected with software, but then I rarely shoot at 10mm.

Drake
 
RLH1861 said:
Iiwll be going to Las Vegas andplan to go out to Valley of Fire and Red Rock. Will be using my 40D with Tokina 12-24mm WA (original model) or my 70-200mm f4 L IS

I have always kep 1A skylight filter on these lenses.

I would think that a polarizing filter would be very effective in the desert. I recently discovered the Calumet Photo store here in suburban Chicago and want to go there to try out some of their filters. On their website I see that they have two lines of filters (store brand) -- MC for multicoated and "T" for traditional (uncoated). the MC line seems to cost almost double.

I would love your recommendations for filters. Can I get a filter that is "slim" enough not to show on the wide angle lens. Is the coating necessary?

I ocnfess to have no knowledge on this issue

Thanks
Click to expand...
Read this compilation of info: http://photonius.wikispaces.com/Filters
It has links to tests, also several tests of many different filters,
showing that multicoated is much better to reduce flare/ghosting.

Many modern filters are quite thin, e.g. the Hoya digital Pro1 or HD series

are 5mm for a CPL. The Hoya HD CPL has a very high transmission, most CPLs loose quite a bit of light.
B+W MRC are also highly regarded.

--
Life is short, time to zoom in ©
 
Drake Ranier said:
RLH1861 said:
Iiwll be going to Las Vegas andplan to go out to Valley of Fire and Red Rock. Will be using my 40D with Tokina 12-24mm WA (original model) or my 70-200mm f4 L IS

I have always kep 1A skylight filter on these lenses.

I would think that a polarizing filter would be very effective in the desert.
Click to expand...
The thing you have to watch for with CPs & wide angle lenses is the sky. A nice blue sky will often exhibit banding, ruining the image. If it's overcast or if you limit the amount of sky in your photos, it shouldn't be a problem. I've never shot in the desert before, but you might also consider an ND filter.
Drake Ranier said:
I recently discovered the Calumet Photo store here in suburban Chicago and want to go there to try out some of their filters. On their website I see that they have two lines of filters (store brand) -- MC for multicoated and "T" for traditional (uncoated). the MC line seems to cost almost double.
Click to expand...
Calumet is a reputable company. I've never had any trouble with them
Drake Ranier said:
I would love your recommendations for filters. Can I get a filter that is "slim" enough not to show on the wide angle lens. Is the coating necessary?
Click to expand...
Yes. Hoya has (or had...I haven't bought one in a few years...) a line of slim filters that also allow one to use a lens cap. I see a very small degree of vignetting at 10mm (1.6 crop), which can be easily corrected with software, but then I rarely shoot at 10mm.

Drake
Click to expand...
The calumet mc seem similar to the Hoya HMC, at least same claimed transmission, i.e. 97%,

while the Calument SMC seems similar to the Hoya SHMC, with 99.7% transmission. Their technical description sounds very similar to the Hoya SHMC, the CPL has seven layers only on the rear (UV has 6 on both sides) and it's slim.

Not clear where they source their filters. Hoya or Kenko, or Marumi, but could be Hoya. you can compare prices, and perhaps get the brand name version.

actually, just noticed that if you google calument filters, you get the calumet web page: calumet filters by Hoya. so it looks like they are Hoya.

--
Life is short, time to zoom in ©
 
RLH1861 said:
I have always kep 1A skylight filter on these lenses.
Click to expand...
Nothing to add to photonius's recommendations. But on the subject of filters generally:

There is no place for skylight filters in digital photography, it's better to let the camera handle white balance. UV filters are similarly not needed, although in extreme cases (high altitude, Antarctica I guess) there may be a benefit.

So we are left with using UV or clear filters for protection, and opinions are divided on this. All filters, including the best ones but especially the cheaper ones, can degrade image quality by causing flare, ghosting, focusing issues, and even strange background blur. Of course there are situations where protecting the front element of your lens is such a high priority that you will want to use a protection filter despite these issues. If you must use one, be sure to use the lens hood as it minimises problems.

Polarising filters can be very useful tools but they should be used only when there is a specific requirement. They are not sunglasses for lenses! If you want to cut reflected glare such as on water or glass, a polariser can transform an image. Polarising filters also increase sky contrast by making the blue parts bluer and the results can be very attractive. The effect is strongest at 90 degrees from the sun and zero opposite the sun, so if you are using an ultrawide lens which might include both of those directions in the frame, you can get strong and unattractive gradients in the sky. One point to bear in mind is that deep blue skies such as those you may well see in the desert generally don't need a polariser. It's 'weaker' skies which benefit most.
 
The locations and the filter I mean.

A polarizing filter is a must, you get beautiful blues that contrast w/the reds. I don't know about other brands, but the Canon 10-22MM doesn't have vignetting even w/a relatively thick filter.

Get a name brand for sure. Since polarizers are frequently shot into the sun, I think MC is important, but only you know your budget. These were shot a few years ago at your locations, not my best but you get the idea - high deserts and polarizers go together.





 
We have shot a lot at Lake Powell, and I consider a poloroid filter almost an essential--but you do have to be careful to not over use it. Some of the best photos are right after a rain, or with storm clouds. Also enhancing sunsets they poloroid is a great asset. Definately go for the high quality filter, thin with multicoating. I don't use "protective" filters. Just very careful with my lenses.
 
I shoot in the deserts of California (Death Valley and areas east of the Sierra) regularly. I never put a "skylight" filter on a lens, nor do I have any need for it. With digital capture I can make any color adjustments with more sophistication and control in post than by using a filter.

A polarizing filter can be useful on occasion for desert photography - but, again, I sure wouldn't just leave it on the camera. I can be interesting when dealing with certain types of clouds during the day time and can control reflections from rocks and certain types of vegetation. (And water... in the desert. Hey, it happens.)

If you are getting the skylight filter for "protection," I'd save my money - unless you have a sealed body camera, a lens that becomes sealed when you add a filter, and you plan to shoot in dust storms.

Dan
RLH1861 said:
Iiwll be going to Las Vegas andplan to go out to Valley of Fire and Red Rock. Will be using my 40D with Tokina 12-24mm WA (original model) or my 70-200mm f4 L IS

I have always kep 1A skylight filter on these lenses.

I would think that a polarizing filter would be very effective in the desert. I recently discovered the Calumet Photo store here in suburban Chicago and want to go there to try out some of their filters. On their website I see that they have two lines of filters (store brand) -- MC for multicoated and "T" for traditional (uncoated). the MC line seems to cost almost double.

I would love your recommendations for filters. Can I get a filter that is "slim" enough not to show on the wide angle lens. Is the coating necessary?

I ocnfess to have no knowledge on this issue

Thanks
Click to expand...
--
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G Dan Mitchell - SF Bay Area, California, USA
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IM: gdanmitchell

Gear List: Cup, spoon, chewing gum, old shoe laces, spare change, eyeballs, bag of nuts.
 
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