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Thanks for these links, highly interesting! And great to have another reference for lens reviews. I even started to remember some almost forgotten FrenchNikon 10-24
http://www.lemondedelaphoto.com/TEST-AF-S-DX-NIKKOR-10-24mm-f-3-5,2126.html
Tamron 10-14
http://www.lemondedelaphoto.com/TEST-BONUS-MDLP-No14-Tamron-SP-AF,2011.html
Tokina 11-16
http://www.lemondedelaphoto.com/Presentation,1385.html
I've bought the Nikon 10-24. After AF Tuning (+6) on the D300 I'm now satisfied with the IQ. I have to stop it down to f11 on 10mm to get good performance in the very extreme corners. But what I've seen from the tests above and other tests in the internet the other lenses are even worse.
The Nikon 10-24 is very fine and versatile lens. And it is expensive.
Martin
Nikon 10-24 the best? I've never seen that clear statement before. It has the cheapest build of the 3 for sure and I believe the jury is still out on the IQ. I'd love for it to be the clear winner as it has the best range and it is made by Nikon.
I'm interested in this thread as I just damaged my Tokina 12-24 (which I think is great for the money) and may need to repair or eventually replace it. I probably would have bought the 11-16 2.8 if it had been available at the time I bought mine. The cost difference between all these lenses is negligible to me, so I'm looking for the best of the 3 period. I don't believe there is a clear winner as they all have advantages and shortcomings. I'm even considering the Nikon 12-24 as it has started to drop to a more reasonable price.
The more I research, the more confusing it is. I came to the conclusion that this is because for DX UWA zooms, there is a well balanced trade-off between the top three: Tokina 11-16 (faster), Tokina 12-24 (longer reach), Nikon 10-24 (the best, but cost much more)![]()
Since you are looking to start out, I will recommend the Tokina or Nikkor 12-24
as a first option. Part of that reasoning is that developing good skills with the
body you choose will require time with the lens on it as well to develop a good
sense of perspective. If you don't have a good idea of the things you wish to
spend time imaging then you will want to spend time with a lens that has a
good perspective to cover a number of shooting opportunities.
12-24 in DX translates to 18-36mm focal length in 35mm or FX parlance. This is
wide enough to cover any number of landscape and architectural shots, indoors,
crowds, large objects, and creative situations you will invent along the way.
There is no hard and fast rule about what to use to get a shot. You can even
do portraits with this lens, and it will give you a unique look that a normal or
portrait telephoto will not.
This not to say that an 11-16 zoom is bad, but I have used both, and have
found the 12-24 reach more useful for general photography. The advantage
to the 11-16 is that you can take "wider" shots of things such as buildings,
interiors, landscapes, etc. The extra 1mm yield several degrees of additional
coverage, and also increases perspective distortion that you may or may not
like.
Ultimately the decision is yours, and I think you will find a 12-24 will be more
suitable starting out than the 11-16. Once you get the hang of the 12-24
you may want to have the 11-16 for what it will do, and you will be comfortable
enough with shooting UWA to really enjoy the lens and it's yield.
Since you are looking to start out, I will recommend the Tokina or Nikkor 12-24
as a first option. Part of that reasoning is that developing good skills with the
body you choose will require time with the lens on it as well to develop a good
sense of perspective. If you don't have a good idea of the things you wish to
spend time imaging then you will want to spend time with a lens that has a
good perspective to cover a number of shooting opportunities.
12-24 in DX translates to 18-36mm focal length in 35mm or FX parlance. This is
wide enough to cover any number of landscape and architectural shots, indoors,
crowds, large objects, and creative situations you will invent along the way.
There is no hard and fast rule about what to use to get a shot. You can even
do portraits with this lens, and it will give you a unique look that a normal or
portrait telephoto will not.
This not to say that an 11-16 zoom is bad, but I have used both, and have
found the 12-24 reach more useful for general photography. The advantage
to the 11-16 is that you can take "wider" shots of things such as buildings,
interiors, landscapes, etc. The extra 1mm yield several degrees of additional
coverage, and also increases perspective distortion that you may or may not
like.
Ultimately the decision is yours, and I think you will find a 12-24 will be more
suitable starting out than the 11-16. Once you get the hang of the 12-24
you may want to have the 11-16 for what it will do, and you will be comfortable
enough with shooting UWA to really enjoy the lens and it's yield.
Genix,
Thanks for spending your time to help me (and apparently quite a few other readers here too).
You made very good point for me to go longer to 24 mm. So, the Tokina 11-16 is out for me even though it also has good IQ.
Now I am left with two choices, Tokina 12-24 DX II or Nikkor DX 10-24 .
IF I forget about the money for now, I think the Nikkor has significant advantage because:
1. It has wider range (goes down to 10 mm)
2. It will obviously work well with Nikon DX cameras (flash, AF, metering, etc.)
3. Nikon is confident enough to put it's name on this new release. (I do not want to get into an argument about this.) This should count for something anyway.
4. It's sibling, the Nikkor 12-24, have received very good reviews. Although I do not have a confirmation of the Nikkor 10-24's good IQ, it is hard for me to imagine Nikon coming out with a new (and updated?) lens that is materially inferior to the older version. The verdict is still not in, but, IMHO, the odd is against that happening.
IF I put the money factor back into the picture (about USD 520 for Tokina 12-24 DX II and USD 920 for Nikkor 10-24, both gray market prices where I live) and consider the good IQ of the Tokina 12-24, it will be hard to justify going for the Nikkor 10-24 unless it has a few undiscovered surprises.
.....may be I should do less thinking and more shooting instead! Just how I am anyway![]()
I don't think that is quite right. The verdict was 4 stars optically, but only 2.5 value-for-money (remembering that the money is a good bit more in euros than in US$). Personally, I think the rating is perverse: I just can't see how US$300 makes the difference between 2.5 and 5 stars value-for-money, especially with half a star difference in optical quality. It is true that the lost half a star had to do with the Tokina family failing of high CA, which you can fix, but still. Build quality is another issue, and if that is important to you the Tokina wins easily.The Nikkor 10-24 is getting a difficult time here:
http://www.photozone.de/nikon--nikkor-aps-c-lens-tests/443-nikkor_1024_3545
Yeah! Tokina 12-24 it will be. It's good and much cheaper. Another possibility that I will find out soon is that I may get a used Nikkor 10-24 from my uncle for about USD 630-700. He is moving to Compacts because they are better for his wrist.I'd still suggest the Tokina 12-24 to you - given finances. Even with the
added CA (which is not much BTW), it is very easily corrected with NX2
or Photoshop - just like the Nikkor will.
Looking forward to it.After you do some shooting with whatever you choose, I think you will be
more comfortable with your decision as the results will build confidence and
experience. Besides, shooting is one of life's great quiet pleasures that help
give one a new perspective on the world around them.
Thanks.Good Luck...