How big is the 150mm f/2?

And the Zuiko? It is very well balanced, can be hold easy one-handed
and you hand hold this lens the whole day without any issues.
I agree that the Oly 150mm f/2 can easily be hand held. You can even
take the tripod collar off to improve the handling.
Hand holding makes high angle shots and low-level flower shots very
easy. And if you are shooting at f/2 for artistic effect, shutter
speeds are so high that there is usually no issue with camera shake.
Note that if you are making the comparison with a Nikon D3/D700, the
Nikkor 300mm f/2.8 is probably the closest equivalent lens.
Yes from a view of field point you are right, however you might use the 150mm F2 more like the 200mm F2 from a shooting point of view.

The 150mm + EC14 combo is more like a 300mm f2,8 if you know what I mean

B

--
iThink, therefore iMac
 
I agree that the Oly 150mm f/2 can easily be hand held. You can even
take the tripod collar off to improve the handling.
Hand holding makes high angle shots and low-level flower shots very
easy.
of where one would need a 300mm equivalent lens at low-level angle, and if they do, how tripod collar would hinder it. Would it be like shooting macro?
And if you are shooting at f/2 for artistic effect, shutter
speeds are so high that there is usually no issue with camera shake.
For FF, would raising ISO leave the shutter speed as high? It seems it would, but I am not sure now. And then if you max out on a bright sunny day, could you still slow the shutter down on 4/3rds? I mean without over-exposing the shot? Again something tells me it is not always possible, can you expand on the subject?
Note that if you are making the comparison with a Nikon D3/D700, the
Nikkor 300mm f/2.8 is probably the closest equivalent lens.
Probably? But to be equivalent would not Oly need to be a F/1.4 and not F/2?

--
http://www.pbase.com/sngreen
 
I agree that the Oly 150mm f/2 can easily be hand held. You can even
take the tripod collar off to improve the handling.
Hand holding makes high angle shots and low-level flower shots very
easy.
of where one would need a 300mm equivalent lens at low-level angle,
and if they do, how tripod collar would hinder it. Would it be like
shooting macro?
And if you are shooting at f/2 for artistic effect, shutter
speeds are so high that there is usually no issue with camera shake.
For FF, would raising ISO leave the shutter speed as high? It seems
it would, but I am not sure now. And then if you max out on a bright
sunny day, could you still slow the shutter down on 4/3rds? I mean
without over-exposing the shot? Again something tells me it is not
always possible, can you expand on the subject?
Note that if you are making the comparison with a Nikon D3/D700, the
Nikkor 300mm f/2.8 is probably the closest equivalent lens.
Probably? But to be equivalent would not Oly need to be a F/1.4 and
not F/2?

--
http://www.pbase.com/sngreen
You still manage to fail as a photographer. Your meaningless FF vs. 4/3 rants prove useless in these otherwise helpful debates. Why don't you share some images which prove your point? The case you're speaking of exists once in a photographer's lifetime.

--
Tim
'I haven't been everywhere, but it's on my list.'
E3/E410/7-14/12-60/50-200/25/25/EC-14
http://www.flickr.com/photos/timskis6/
 
I shoot at low angle with my 50-200 all the time. In fact, that's why I bought the lens to start with. Sometimes I use it with the ex25 extension tube, sometimes not. I usually remove the tripod collar so that it doesn't hinder the focus ring (or the zoom ring!). The handhold-ability of a long lens is very important, especially to olympus consumers. I know the 150 is a different lens but the argument is the same: people use lenses for all kinds of different subjects, and have different needs for different conditions.

The Nikkor 300 f/2.8 might be the closest lens to the 150/2, or it could be the 200mm if you are comparing aps-c. It is not necessary to scale to f/1.4 because you are comparing shutter speed and maximum light gathering ability, not depth of field. The olympus gathers more light, period.

Both lenses can stop WAY down, so reducing shutter speed is the same on olympus or nikon systems.

Erik.
--
Not everyone who wants small wants pink.
 
The 200/2s have larger apertures than the 150/2, and twice the angle
of view, so they will never be able to be made at the comparable
size/weight/quality/price tradeoff as the 150/2. The 300/4s are the
logical comparisons, on D700/5D2.
This is true and there is no way around it.
However, I am willing to speculate that one would need the 300/2.8s to
produce results that compare favourably to the 150/2.
I actually compared E-620 + 150/2 vs. D700 + 300/4 and aside from DR and noise difference they were hard to tell apart (both wide open). There were still some problems (because of E-620 strange ISO-settings) so I didn't post the results, but I will once I sort them out.

I also shot an E-620 + 7-14 vs. D700 + 14-24 comparison and again the results were similar.

--
Equipment in the profile.
 
You still manage to fail as a photographer.
Don't we all?
Your meaningless FF vs.
4/3 rants prove useless in these otherwise helpful debates.
I think you have mistaken me for someone else. I was not clear on what the poster said, so I responded with question, to keep the debate (debate?) helpful.
Why
don't you share some images which prove your point?
I have no point to prove, that's the whole point. So I asked.
The case you're
speaking of exists once in a photographer's lifetime.
Now you got me all but confused, what case was I speaking about?

--
http://photo.net/photos/sngreen
 
I shoot at low angle with my 50-200 all the time. In fact, that's
why I bought the lens to start with. Sometimes I use it with the
ex25 extension tube, sometimes not. I usually remove the tripod
collar so that it doesn't hinder the focus ring (or the zoom ring!).
I often remove the collar so it would not bulge the lens up when in a bag. More often I put it upwards, till when it is needed again, i.e. the lens is used. So you shoot 50-200 with ex25 from hand? I would not even trust the most of the tripods for it. Sure wow.
The handhold-ability of a long lens is very important, especially to
olympus consumers.
Indeed.
I know the 150 is a different lens but the
argument is the same: people use lenses for all kinds of different
subjects, and have different needs for different conditions.
Agreed.
The Nikkor 300 f/2.8 might be the closest lens to the 150/2, or it
could be the 200mm if you are comparing aps-c.
My bad, I did not think of APS-C for some reason. I think the comparisons above were also made against FF. But then I would say for 300/2.8 on APS-C the 150 is a tad too short on 4/3rds, don't you know ;).
It is not necessary
to scale to f/1.4 because you are comparing shutter speed and maximum
light gathering ability, not depth of field.
What I am not comparing is the intensity of light, but total light methinks would be about the same through 2.8 on FF as 1.4 on 4/3rds. Or not?
The olympus gathers
more light, period.
When all summed up, really, how does it do it?
Both lenses can stop WAY down, so reducing shutter speed is the same
on olympus or nikon systems.
True. But is it a sole reason to buy F/2 lens, so it can be stopped down? On a bright sunny day I often see F/2.8 scratching 1/8000 shutter limit, especially when photographing back-lit subjects, like flowers and such. Would not F/2 be outside this limit then?

--
http://photo.net/photos/sngreen
 
It is difficult to compare lenses across different platforms/mounts, moreover including 150/2.0 which clearly outperforms any available Olympus body right at f/2. As I don't want to jump again those discussions about if f/2 is f/2 or f/4, etc. I can say that E-3 with 150/2.0 is great value for the money and that (my) initial price has been much lower than the price of D700 with 300/4, no need to mention price of 200/2 or 300/2.8.
 
I shoot at low angle with my 50-200 all the time. In fact, that's
why I bought the lens to start with. Sometimes I use it with the
ex25 extension tube, sometimes not. I usually remove the tripod
collar so that it doesn't hinder the focus ring (or the zoom ring!).
I often remove the collar so it would not bulge the lens up when in a
bag. More often I put it upwards, till when it is needed again, i.e.
the lens is used. So you shoot 50-200 with ex25 from hand? I would
not even trust the most of the tripods for it. Sure wow.
I use the 50-200mm and EX-25 hand-held for butterfly stalking and it is a great combination (thanks to the effectiveness of IS).

I find that another great grear combo for butterflies is the 50mm f/2 and the EC-20 teleconverter. I hope that Olympus will soon come up with their 100mm macro lens (f/2.8 or bigger???). It should be even better!

Using the 150mm f/2 for butterflies is a bit more complicated. Without the EX-25, it focuses down to 1.4m. With the EX-25, the furthest focus distance is 1.26m. So there is a small gap in its focus range - which always seems to be the range that I need. Having said that, 1.4m makes the subject about postcard-sized so that is pretty useful anyway.
Just thinking...

Close focus distance is another advantage that the Olympus 150mm f/2 has over the bigger nikkors:
Olympus 150mm f/2 - 1.4m
Nikkor 200mm f/2 - 1.9m
Nikkor 300mm f/2.8 - 2.2m
 
From my experience so far, I think the Oly 150mm f/2 is one of the great Olympus lenses and one of the best reasons for buying a 4/3 body.

Optically it is superb, even wide open. It is small and light enough to be hand held. It is so short that it can go face-down into a backpack compartment.

I have taken to carrying (not too far!) the following setup in a small 12x6x7 inch Domke shoulder bag: E-3; 12-60mm f/2.8-4; 50mm f/2; 150mm f/2; EC-20. That gives you the equivalent of: 24-120mm; 100mm (macro); 200mm (macro); 300mm; 600mm with nothing slower than f/4.
 
I agree that the Oly 150mm f/2 can easily be hand held. You can even
take the tripod collar off to improve the handling.
Hand holding makes high angle shots and low-level flower shots very
easy. And if you are shooting at f/2 for artistic effect, shutter
speeds are so high that there is usually no issue with camera shake.
Note that if you are making the comparison with a Nikon D3/D700, the
Nikkor 300mm f/2.8 is probably the closest equivalent lens.
someone posted a comparison shot on these forums between an E-3 + 150/2 vs a D700 + 300mm/4, there was very little to choose between them, found the thread :)
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1022&message=31658957
--
http://illy.smugmug.com
 
it might be equivalent to f4 as far as depth of field goes, but for
exposure f2 is f2, so equivalent to an f2 lens if you are talking
about usability in low light
...on what you mean by "usability in low light". In terms of noise, FF has two stops better noise performance than 4/3, so, for example, f/2 ISO 400 on 4/3 and f/4 ISO 1600 on FF will result in the same noise, so the equivalence holds in terms of DOF, noise, and shutter speed.

On the other hand, if by "usability in low light" you mean AF performance, then that may be another matter. I do wonder how a 300/4 on Nikon or Canon FF fare in that regard compared to a 150/2 on Olympus.

On the other hand, Nikon's 300/4 doesn't have IS, which is a point in favor of the 150/2 on 4/3 when using an IS body in some instances, but Canon's 300/4 does have IS.
 
50-200+ex25, handheld on an E3. One of my favorite combos for easily spooked or dangerous animals.

I too am eagerly awaiting the mythic 100mm macro - my 50 f/2 is easily my favorite lens but does feel a bit short sometimes.

Regarding your other questions, f/2 is ALWAYS brighter than f/4. And F/1.4 is MUCH brighter than F/2.8. This is why we record f/stop as a fraction and not an absolute diameter. You are trying to equalize light gathering as a function of depth of field, which is not a good way to think about capability. The depth of field is more dependent on sensor size than brightest f/stop. And yes, it is easy to top out at f/2 and 1/8000s in bright sunlight, but that's what ND filters are for. The nikon or canon would have the exact same problem at f/2.









Erik.
--
Not everyone who wants small wants pink.
 
I agree that the Oly 150mm f/2 can easily be hand held. You can even
take the tripod collar off to improve the handling.
Hand holding makes high angle shots and low-level flower shots very
easy.
of where one would need a 300mm equivalent lens at low-level angle,
and if they do, how tripod collar would hinder it. Would it be like
shooting macro?
Pretty common really. This was taken with the 150 F2 + 1.4 TC,
so it is more like a 400mm equivalent lens.


And if you are shooting at f/2 for artistic effect, shutter
speeds are so high that there is usually no issue with camera shake.
For FF, would raising ISO leave the shutter speed as high? It seems
it would, but I am not sure now. And then if you max out on a bright
sunny day, could you still slow the shutter down on 4/3rds? I mean
without over-exposing the shot? Again something tells me it is not
always possible, can you expand on the subject?
Note that if you are making the comparison with a Nikon D3/D700, the
Nikkor 300mm f/2.8 is probably the closest equivalent lens.
Probably? But to be equivalent would not Oly need to be a F/1.4 and
not F/2?
You want less DOF then a 150mm @ F2?
--
Jeff Taylor
http://www.pbase.com/jltaylor
 
It is not too big to handhold for almost two hours (swapping between the ZD150 or the ZD35-100), at a concert.
And handholding yields results that are pretty OK (in my book at least).

This one was shot at a recent concert of Milow :



ZD150mm on the E-3 with IS engaged,
S-priority for 1/125 sec at 800 ISO, which resulted in Aperture set to F2.8
(spot metered and -2/3EV)

--
Roel Hendrickx
--
lots of images: http://www.roelh.zenfolio.com

my E-3 user field report from Tunisian Sahara: http://www.biofos.com/ukpsg/roel.html
 
Yup, Thisa is a awesome great package. I've someone is tight on money ore wants to zoom then the 50-200 SWD is an alternative

But the Kit you described is the best allround solution when it comes to performance and optical quality. And it is also reasonable lightweight and as important... if no more... its weather resistant!

Timi
--

iThink, therefore iMac
 

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