D300 & bracketing

Hi,

I'm trying to learn a few things about HDR photography and i'm thinking to start with 3 bracketed images at -2, 0, +2 exposure. The problem is that i cant find how to set the bracketing to +2 since it goes up to +1 per image. i'm i doing something wrong?

Thanks

Read this: http://www.flickr.com/groups/d300hdr/discuss/72157607139292002/

no, you are not doing anything wrong, it's limited to 1EV steps, but you can fire off up to 9 frames, which gives you a total of + - 4EV. what software do you use to combine the shots? photomatix for example makes it no different to use 3,5,7 or 9 frames, just some more processing time needed.

i guess the reason nikon allow for 2EV on D90 etc is that they only allow for 3 shot bracketing. still would like bigger steps too, but i usually just fire off all 9 shots, can always delet later
--
Mario

My Gallery
http://www.mg-photo.ch

I'm using photomatix. Thanks a lot for instnt reply to my question both of you
God bless you!

You can always use a tripod and manual mode and bracket at whatever settings you like - like we did in the old days.

My first SLR was a Pentax H3V in 1963 with a 50mm 1.8 lens.

Best wishes and good bracketing to all!

--
Denverwilly

ApostoloZ said:

I'm trying to learn a few things about HDR photography and i'm
thinking to start with 3 bracketed images at -2, 0, +2 exposure. The
problem is that i cant find how to set the bracketing to +2 since it
goes up to +1 per image. i'm i doing something wrong?

Click to expand...

As others have already indicated, you can only "program" the camera to bracket the individual shots in one stop increments.

I hope you won't object if I move on to the next logical question...

Suppose you have shot a sequence of nine exposures at one stop increments...

Will Photomatix (or whatever) do a better job if:

1. You give it all 9 exposures, or

2. You discard 4 exposures and simply give it 0, + - 2, and + -4.

I leaning towards #2 because the additional frames may exacerbate minor motion issues with leaves/trees etc. But I would be interested to hear from anyone who has actually studied this question.

You only need to bracket to get 0 +2 -2. Three files
according to Matt Kloskowski. delete the ones you
don't need speeds up the process.
--
Lou Dallara

Web Site http://louisdallara.com/
Blog http://louisdallara.com/wordpress2/

malch said:

Will Photomatix (or whatever) do a better job if:

1. You give it all 9 exposures, or

2. You discard 4 exposures and simply give it 0, + - 2, and + -4.

I leaning towards #2 because the additional frames may exacerbate
minor motion issues with leaves/trees etc. But I would be interested
to hear from anyone who has actually studied this question.

Click to expand...

well i haven't studied it, but i tend to give just all the 9 frames to Photomatix (only frames that are almost completly blown/black are deleted), so far i haven't found this to be a problem, except that processing takes a bit longer. Photomatix does a very good job at reducing motion when used in "normal" tone mapping mode, which gives the usually slightly overprocessed look. when used on Exposure Blending mode (which gives much more natural looking pictures) it has alot more problems with motion, but you will instantly spot this and can then try to reduce frames.

--
Mario

My Gallery
http://www.mg-photo.ch