Help with cleaning issue please

yukoner2

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Norm: That smear mark does not look sharp (well defined) enough to be dirt on the sensor. I suspect the dust cover. Otherwise I have no clue, I have not seen anything of that nature in my photos.
Good luck,
--
larryj

If you can see the light, you can photograph it
Quote from Myron Woods
 
I've seen marks like that before, and they were caused by smearing of a liquid on one of the glass surfaces. I can't tell you for sure which glass surface to check out, but I suspect that the smear might have been from a source that was slightly wet and then partially dried. Maybe one of those pressurized air cans that are sometimes used to blow dust off the surfaces of lenses. It could have even come from an alcohol swab that had some contaminants on it. It doesn't take much to leave that kind of smear behind, and that's exactly what it looks like.
 
I've seen marks like that before, and they were caused by smearing of
a liquid on one of the glass surfaces. I can't tell you for sure
which glass surface to check out, but I suspect that the smear might
have been from a source that was slightly wet and then partially
dried. Maybe one of those pressurized air cans that are sometimes
used to blow dust off the surfaces of lenses. It could have even
come from an alcohol swab that had some contaminants on it. It
doesn't take much to leave that kind of smear behind, and that's
exactly what it looks like.
--
That would be my suspicion as well. A fellow that was using the camera removed the lens to change it and blew into the opening so perhaps????

--
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http://www.yukonphotographers.com
Yukoner
'Yukon. A special place in Northern Canada'
Ya gotta come and see!
 
That sounds like the reason for the smearing. I used to work on lenses (grinding and testing), and you never, ever blow on the lense. Saliva particles always end up on the surface of the lense, and smear just like you're seeing. The best way to get rid of them is to use Isopropyl alcohol, but you really have to be absolutely sure that the applicator doesn't contribute more contaminant than what you're trying to get rid of. By this, I mean that some applicators that look clean actually aren't. What happens is when the cleaning solution (alcohol or whatever), is applied to the applicator, things like glue used to hold those cotton swabs to the Q-tiip stick dissolve in the alcohol and deposits on the lense surface. The same goes for many types of cloth too. The cloth may look clean, but there are small amounts of soap or cloth processing material that dissolve in the alcohol and end up being deposited on the lense surface. You don't see it at first, but after the alcohol evaporates, the residue is easily visible on the lense surface.

Anyways, it sounds like you found the source of the problem.
 
That would be my suspicion as well. A fellow that was using the
camera removed the lens to change it and blew into the opening so
perhaps????
Any marks seen in images have to be from smears or dust or whatever ON the sensor (well, OK then, on the glass cover attached directly to the sensor)

There is never, ever, any way dust or smears on the lens or the protective glass filter just inside the lens mounting can ever be shown in images. So it's simply a case of cleaning the sensor (=glass ontopof).

I have also found that it definitely pays to fit the end of a vacuum cleaner's hose with (well, I used) an empty ballpoint pen casing -I made a plug to fit inside the hose, with the pen casing in the middle. This provides a small tube to increase the suction that can be directed as required inside the camera body - at the end of any cleaning. I have marked my tube with some tape so that I know how far it can go inside without actually touching the sensor surface.

In cleaning, I use a couple of 12mm nylon soft artists brushes. Both cleaned after each use (and obviously before the very first use) by a drop of washing up liquid in a saucer of warm water, swirl about and then after, rinse three times, then shake well and hang to thoroughly dry. Then store in plastic bag before next use.

First is used to brush inside the opening, with filter removed. Then a quick vacuum - avoding (including avoiding the brush) touching the focus screen. Then camera opened for cleaning, per manual destructions. Then quick brush inside - flicking the brush on a bit of stout card between each brushing to flick away dust.

Then sensor cleaned (whichever way preferred) and a vacuum. Then a final brush with the other brush - used only on the sensor - then another vacuum then closed. Quick vacuum inside chamber again and (having already cleaned the filter and placed on clean surface) brush with the sensor brush and filter replaced.

I charge the brush this way. Either flick rapidly across piece of stout card (never use plastic as that discharges the static) to build up static in the nylon brush hairs. I actually use a battery operated coffee frother - this has body for 2 x AA batteries, with stout wire about 4-5" long and a small wire coil on its end - into which the cut-down handle of the 2nd brush can be fitted and wedged. Turn on the switch and within a couple of seconds, the nylon is fully charged with static, to attract the dust. It's a do-it-yourself "Arctic Butterfly" for about a £1/$1.50.

Hope that gives some inspiration. Vacuuming gets rid of any dust that otherwise will be back on the sensor very quickly - if not sooner!

--
Zone8

The photograph isolates and perpetuates a moment of time: an important and revealing moment, or an unimportant and meaningless one, depending upon the photographer's understanding of his subject and mastery of his process. -Edward Weston
http://www.photosnowdonia.co.uk/ZPS
 
That would be my suspicion as well. A fellow that was using the
camera removed the lens to change it and blew into the opening so
perhaps????
Any marks seen in images have to be from smears or dust or whatever
ON the sensor (well, OK then, on the glass cover attached directly to
the sensor)

There is never, ever, any way dust or smears on the lens or the
protective glass filter just inside the lens mounting can ever be
shown in images. So it's simply a case of cleaning the sensor
(=glass ontopof).

I have also found that it definitely pays to fit the end of a vacuum
cleaner's hose with (well, I used) an empty ballpoint pen casing -I
made a plug to fit inside the hose, with the pen casing in the
middle. This provides a small tube to increase the suction that can
be directed as required inside the camera body - at the end of any
cleaning. I have marked my tube with some tape so that I know how
far it can go inside without actually touching the sensor surface.

In cleaning, I use a couple of 12mm nylon soft artists brushes. Both
cleaned after each use (and obviously before the very first use) by a
drop of washing up liquid in a saucer of warm water, swirl about and
then after, rinse three times, then shake well and hang to thoroughly
dry. Then store in plastic bag before next use.

First is used to brush inside the opening, with filter removed. Then
a quick vacuum - avoding (including avoiding the brush) touching the
focus screen. Then camera opened for cleaning, per manual
destructions. Then quick brush inside - flicking the brush on a bit
of stout card between each brushing to flick away dust.

Then sensor cleaned (whichever way preferred) and a vacuum. Then a
final brush with the other brush - used only on the sensor - then
another vacuum then closed. Quick vacuum inside chamber again and
(having already cleaned the filter and placed on clean surface) brush
with the sensor brush and filter replaced.

I charge the brush this way. Either flick rapidly across piece of
stout card (never use plastic as that discharges the static) to build
up static in the nylon brush hairs. I actually use a battery
operated coffee frother - this has body for 2 x AA batteries, with
stout wire about 4-5" long and a small wire coil on its end - into
which the cut-down handle of the 2nd brush can be fitted and wedged.
Turn on the switch and within a couple of seconds, the nylon is fully
charged with static, to attract the dust. It's a do-it-yourself
"Arctic Butterfly" for about a £1/$1.50.

Hope that gives some inspiration. Vacuuming gets rid of any dust
that otherwise will be back on the sensor very quickly - if not
sooner!

--
Zone8
The photograph isolates and perpetuates a moment of time: an
important and revealing moment, or an unimportant and meaningless
one, depending upon the photographer's understanding of his subject
and mastery of his process. -Edward Weston
http://www.photosnowdonia.co.uk/ZPS
That's the best, and most in-depth sensor cleaning description I've read.
Thanks.

I'd love to see a photo tutorial on it if you ever have a chance to make one.
--
The masterpiece is created by the artist, not the camera.
http://www.bcscenicwonder.com

http://studiostu.bcscenicwonder.com/
 
That's the best, and most in-depth sensor cleaning description I've
read.
Thanks.

I'd love to see a photo tutorial on it if you ever have a chance to
make one.
Thanks for the kind comments. Wish I had time to oblige but would comment that previous to thinking of the vacuum idea, I usually found as much muck was back on the sensor as before after a day or so (obviously just flew around inside). I need to clean relatively soon as a few little spots have appeared (only take about a minute to clone out so hardly desperate) and last clean was over a year ago.

As and when, will see what I can do.

Meantime for really deep cleaning, on St Patrick's Day, check this out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HplZ_taHXLM

--
Zone8

The photograph isolates and perpetuates a moment of time: an important and revealing moment, or an unimportant and meaningless one, depending upon the photographer's understanding of his subject and mastery of his process. -Edward Weston
http://www.photosnowdonia.co.uk/ZPS
 

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