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Pseudo-HDR Sunset

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charita

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Here's an example of a so-called pseudo-HDR image I processed using Photomatix. I started with the original single NEF file, then darkened it, then lightened it, ending up with three images of the same scene. Photomatix then tonemapped the three images into one composite image. I added additional contrast and saturation to come up with this result. My little old Nikon D40X does not shoot auto exposure compensation, so I make up for this deficiency on the computer. Comments will be appreciated (effect is too exagerated, not enough color, too busy...etc), as I have only just started getiing the feel of this program.
Nikon D40x and 18-105VR lens.



Charles.
Nikon D40x, 18-105VR, 50mm f1.8, Capture NX2.



'There are always two people in every picture: the photographer and the viewer' - Ansel Adams.
 
You should try taking 3 photos with your camera and drop the "artificial" bracketing that you did by lighting and darkening the photos.

Put your camera in manual mode and take 3 shots with normal exposure time, high exposure time and low exposure time. Keep the aperture value constant F4/F8.

Thus you'll really capture a high dynamic range and then proceed to tonemap it.

Try to achieve the most realistic result possible, everybody is fed up of those blown up SCI-FI looking HDR effects.
charita said:
Here's an example of a so-called pseudo-HDR image I processed using
Photomatix. I started with the original single NEF file, then
darkened it, then lightened it, ending up with three images of the
same scene. Photomatix then tonemapped the three images into one
composite image. I added additional contrast and saturation to come
up with this result. My little old Nikon D40X does not shoot auto
exposure compensation, so I make up for this deficiency on the
computer. Comments will be appreciated (effect is too exagerated, not
enough color, too busy...etc), as I have only just started getiing
the feel of this program.
Nikon D40x and 18-105VR lens.



Charles.
Nikon D40x, 18-105VR, 50mm f1.8, Capture NX2.



'There are always two people in every picture: the photographer and
the viewer' - Ansel Adams.
Click to expand...
--
Pushing the Canon a710
http://floppyrom.deviantart.com/gallery/
 
thanks for your follow-up. Your method of manual exposure compensations will require the use of a tripod or other stable platform, which is not always convenient. Also, as a beginner, I really don't see the difference between darkening/lightening an image on the computer verses in-camera exposure compensation. The image ends up dark or light as the case may be. Perhaps there is something in the Photomatix program that detects these differences. I will give your method a trial.

Appreciate your comments about not overdoing the effects. I have seen other examples posted on the forum that have the exaggerated look, and I rather like them, because they look so surreal. Thanks again for your helpful suggestions. Regards.
--
Charles.
Nikon D40x, 18-105VR, 50mm f1.8, Capture NX2.



'There are always two people in every picture: the photographer and the viewer' - Ansel Adams.
 
Hi,

I recognize your limitation with the camera. The problem is that making three versions of the same image will not restore blown highlights nor bring out details in areas that are underexposed (You can't put back what's not there). If you want to create a pseudo HDR try Dynamic Photo HDR. The software will create a "Pseudo HDR" from one image and has a variety of filters for different effects. It will also blend 3 exposures into one. I don't know if Photomatrix Pro has a similar Pseudo HDR capability.

HTH,
Bob Schoner
 
Thanks for your explanation. You made it clear that you cannot put in something that isn't there, with the single-exposure treatment. I will look into the program you suggested. Regards.
--
Charles.
Nikon D40x, 18-105VR, 50mm f1.8, Capture NX2.



'There are always two people in every picture: the photographer and the viewer' - Ansel Adams.
 
That's a nice job and well thought out plan. Even though my camera does auto exposure, it is nice to know that I can take a photo and lighten one and darken the other and then combine the three. That is an awesome idea and substitue.
--



Melissa - aka Catz
PBASE Supporter
Proud owner of a Nikon D2X
Still use the Fuji S2 for backup
CanonAE-1 Canon S3
http://www.pbase.com/mnewco
http://www.atncentral.com
 
what camera do you have? what do you mean by auto exposure?

can't you put it on manual, select an aperture (F4, F5) and then take 3 pictures with normal exposure, underexposed and overexposed
catz said:
That's a nice job and well thought out plan. Even though my camera
does auto exposure, it is nice to know that I can take a photo and
lighten one and darken the other and then combine the three. That is
an awesome idea and substitue.
--



Melissa - aka Catz
PBASE Supporter
Proud owner of a Nikon D2X
Still use the Fuji S2 for backup
CanonAE-1 Canon S3
http://www.pbase.com/mnewco
http://www.atncentral.com
Click to expand...
--
Pushing the Canon a710
http://floppyrom.deviantart.com/gallery/
 
Maybe I am not using the correct wording here. What I mean by that is that I can set the camera to take 3-9 pictures and the camera changes the settings where as all I have to do is press the shutter down and yes I can set the camera to manual.
--



Melissa - aka Catz
PBASE Supporter
Proud owner of a Nikon D2X
Still use the Fuji S2 for backup
CanonAE-1 Canon S3
http://www.pbase.com/mnewco
http://www.atncentral.com
 
catz said:
Maybe I am not using the correct wording here. What I mean by that is
that I can set the camera to take 3-9 pictures and the camera changes
the settings where as all I have to do is press the shutter down and
yes I can set the camera to manual.
Click to expand...
--

actually, it between 2-9, and yes.. thats bracketing. hence the 'BKT' button that you have to push in order to make it...bracket! ;-) My only complaint is that it only allows up to 1 stop apart. it would be nice to be able to go to 2! And before a bunch of people say, just take more and throw away what you dont need... I know, but thats not really the point. the way I normally do it is, base my exposure on a neutral part of the frame, and bracket 5 shots, 1 stop apart. they again, I dont go for the sci-fi/painted HDR look either..
for example..

 
It will convert a single image into a pseudo HDR image. Just select Automate..Single File Conversion. You are then set up to Tone Map the image. No need to do the multiple conversions which don't really buy you anything. If you just want to Tone Map images then use the Photoshop plugin from Photomatix on an ACR converted 16 bit image or get one of the other Tone Mapping plugins.
 
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