New D300 owner not happy with color reproduction -please help.

Yea it seems that my D50 renders the sky with better color - blue-er.
Thats the think that I'm upset about with this camera the color rendition.
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D300 + Nikon 300mm F/4 AF-s + TC 14 + Mb-10
D50 + Sigma 50-500
Nikon 50mm 1.8 and Nikon 18-200 VR
 
Yea it seems that my D50 renders the sky with better color - blue-er.
Thats the think that I'm upset about with this camera the color
rendition.
Ironically better is not necessarily more accurate. Take two prints, the bluer one from the D50 and the D300 one and take them outside and visually compare them to the actual sky. I have actions in Photoshop that take me to LAB color space where I can tweak the colors to make them more punchy, and do it in a selective way that doesn't distort other colors; it takes me less than two minutes, and of late I find myself using those techniques less than I used to because the bluer sky has come to look unnatural to me eyes.

This goes to what we are discussing here about colors from consumer cameras being different than they are from professional cameras. The differences are in the color profiles of the cameras and not anything inherent to their sensors. It isn't enough that Nikon has the same profile (Neutral, Standard, etc) for all the cameras in NX because Nikon profiles those cameras differently despite having the same designation. Third party converters may be a better option for some, or just getting a handle on what you have. If you are a perfectionist then learn to use layers and LAB in Photoshop, if you are a consumer than you might be better off buying a consumer camera and accepting the colors the camera maker gives you.
 
Thank you.That's why I started this thread. To all with the "pro lenses- is this issue better -solved( color reproduction better) with some pro lenses like 24-70 or 70-200 vr compared to "kit" lenses such as 18-105 VR ( D90 kit lens) . ??? Just a tought.

I'm off tomorrow , so i'll try to spend all day shooting , probably in raw and try to shoot every image twice -one with D-lignting on normal and other in off settings. And see what I can come up with in NX2. The problem is I only have 8 gb card which only holds about 280 images, (in raw)not too much for all day shooting, but should be enough. I have worked very hard to calibrate my monitor, and I can say I'm VERY close or dead on. Because When I see galery that everybady says It's awesome, the colors are just perfect...Thanks again everybody for toughts
JP
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I'm just an amateur shooting bunch of Jpeg's and hoping every once in a while something comes out OK.

http://www.pbase.com/jps1979/galleries
 
Ok, I just spend about another 3 hours in NX2 and messing with raw files of my main P.I.T.A. subject for warm colors reproduction. -My daughters electric 4 wheeler in very pastel colors- violet wheels, yellow frame, red ferrings and orange seat . Wow. This had been REAL challenge.

I may have found my sweet spot- I like saturated but ACCURATE colors. Not like KR for example ( even though I like to read Kens stuff, hes a little too crazy with colors).

Anyway ALL the color -picture modes are very prone to blow out red channel - especially red and orange color. Only In D2X mode II they were accurate ,yet lack a little punch. set to +1 saturation or maybe leave at 0 and set to +10 on lower saturation scale and you're money.

Even though colors seem FAIRLY accurate in modes like neutral or D2X mode I , they're just too plain and once added slight saturation like +1 or so ,only that increases saturation is reds and it's shades . Whoever made D2X mode II deserves big hug and thank you. I'll have to further comfirm this setting, and will shoot tomorrow in raw hopefully weather permitting. Can't wait to go take some real shots. The reproduction of skin tones is another task but D2x mode II or nikon's portrait modes are recommended a lot and I'd probably leave it at it's default saturation. ( have to test again).So far I had D300 about 10 days and I'm either at work or it's dark or it's bad weather. Arrr.Thanks to all for participating in this thread
JP

--

I'm just an amateur shooting bunch of Jpeg's and hoping every once in a while something comes out OK.

http://www.pbase.com/jps1979/galleries
 
It is just possible that some of these woes are due to clipping individual colour channels.

Red is very prone to clippping and blue skies can blow that colour even when there is no clipping to pure white or black.

Shoot .nef in "Neutral".

Check your individual R, G and B histograms for clipping, not just the composite.

Do a search here and/or on the D1/2/3 forum for UNI White Balance or UNI WB.

Learn to use the LCH tool in NX/NX2 for selective colour and luminosity adjustments.

Just a few thoughts and apologies if they are old hat.
--
Phil_L
 
The problem is when the saturation is turned up the reds are blown -like
overdone, and when saturation is turned down THE WHOLE color spectrum
is plain instead of just reds.
I know what you mean. When I bought my D300 in december 2007, I also had problems with clipping reds when using the built in profiles or when processing in Capture NX. Previously I hadn't used Nikon Capture, but Bibble instead. As I also found Capture NX to be clumsy and with very little support for batch processing, so I tried out various raw converters and ended up with Lightroom. Lightroom is probably not significantly better or worse than say Bibble for PP, but it has all those excellent batch processing options as well as the great keywording functions. Anyway, Lightroom ended my problems with clipping reds (according to my trials, Bibble would also have solved the problem). I believe it's not a hardware camera problem as such but a problem with the processing of the files in the profiles/PP in NX.

BTW, in may post processing programs you can pick a single color an turn down the saturation of that color while leaving the others mostly unchanged. If the blown red is a persistant problem, one can create a new default with the saturation of the red turned down.
 
Well, I tried lightroom and it's probably the most non- intuitive program to me. I hated it after about 10 minutes trying to do very simple tasks .I use zoner photo studio professional nor regular editing. Simple yet effective. I really like the DXO also ,which I'm testing,but I'm having issue with opening raw- nef files - does not work properly. Does anybody have same problem? Jpegs work fine. I normally don't shoot raw, but during the testing phase I do- especially because you can play in NX2 just like in the camera settings but NX2 let's you see the changes instantly which helps tremendously. I would not agree that the problem is not in the camera, it is- that's why people develop custom profiles like d2x ,etc. I can say that because if I set the same settings and shoot in fine jpeg(my regular sittings) it'll come out looking exactly the same strait out of the camera as raw opened in the same software, no matter what software you open it with.
--

I'm just an amateur shooting bunch of Jpeg's and hoping every once in a while something comes out OK.

http://www.pbase.com/jps1979/galleries
 
Well, I tried lightroom and it's probably the most non- intuitive
program to me. I hated it after about 10 minutes trying to do very
simple tasks
"One man wants the mother, another man wants the daughter. That way they both get married." I do find Lightroom intuitive and I was at home with it from day one. To each his own.
I would not agree that the problem is not in the
camera, it is- that's why people develop custom profiles like d2x
,etc. I can say that because if I set the same settings and shoot in
fine jpeg(my regular sittings) it'll come out looking exactly the
same strait out of the camera as raw opened in the same software, no
matter what software you open it with.
Maybe I expressed myself less clearly. What I meant was, that it was not the hardware of the camera that couldn't record the reds properly. It's the software in the camera (and thus also NX), that's the problem, and as such the problem is in the camera. It can be bypassed by shooting raw and using a different converter. Or one can create a custom profile in NX. But I agree, that it would have been better if the camera software had it right from the beginning. On the other hand it's not a very big deal for me. Choosing this or that converter is for me like choosing this or that film. One picks what gives the results one likes best with the least possible hassle.
 
I would not agree that the problem is not in the
camera, it is- that's why people develop custom profiles like d2x
,etc.
the root of the problem is that the sensor will capture more colors than can be contained in sRGB or even adobe RGB

simply using a raw processing program that uses prophoto color space or this

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1021&message=29091000

will cure 90% of your red and blue color problems

also, white balance and finally exposure

i am willing to be 98% of the times you think the red channel is blown out - if you looked at the raw file histogram it wouldn't be

normally in raw - it is the green channel that finally gives up

good luck!

David
 
I have come to realize that shooting new cameras or lenses in bad light is a tough way to start out. My D300 will arrive tomorrow, but I'm not going to snap the shutter until I see a little sunshine, even if it takes a week (I'll spend Thursday and Friday nights screwing up the Katzeye and studying the manual). After I have fallen completely in love with the bloody thing I will try bad light (where no doubt I will promptly screw up everything I photograph until somebody points out I forgot to up the ISO).
 
you have to twick it a bit.

I use Neutral for portraits, DX2 I for interior flash portraits, Landscape for landscapes. Sometime (but rarely) I revert to starndard in NX2.

I always turn down brightness to -1 !!! I find default tonal curve of D300 to be too pumped up in mid tones, resulting in lack of details, colors wash out in many cases. It's not exposure, it's tonal curve.

Then it depends what you mean by OFF.

1) Off = difference from reality (what you see) and shot just taken and transferred to calibrated monitor? ok there is indeed some areas where hue is different depending on D300 pic mode

2) Off meaning not enough vibrant and saturated as the compact and entry level cameras? they are wrong D300 is right, but it depends if you want more pleasant or more matching colors

g
 
Yes -by colors being off I meant thay don't look as they suppose to . The red and orange turn into glowing mush.

Well If you set active d-lighting to ON it disables control of contrast and brightness in color profile. It you turn it OFF you can not play with is in PP later in NX2 ,thats why I set it to low or normal and I can always turn it off later in software AND apply mentioned -1 brigtness if I want to.
JP
--

I'm just an amateur shooting bunch of Jpeg's and hoping every once in a while something comes out OK.

http://www.pbase.com/jps1979/galleries
 
Understand.

Honestly I never found reds and oranges to get muddish or whatever.. it might depend on which red and orange and which level of saturation we are talking about.

I indeed find Vivid and DX2 III to be too saturated compared to reality,and reds to clip in those modes.

As far as DLighting is involved I'd advice to turn in on only when you need it. I have it on in high contrast landscape scenes or when shooting cityscapes (because shadows might create very dark aeras). But it's a matter of tastes.

Care to post comparative pictures with other cameras to have a look?

g
 
Well If you set active d-lighting to ON it disables control of
contrast and brightness in color profile. It you turn it OFF you can
not play with is in PP later in NX2 ,thats why I set it to low or
normal and I can always turn it off later in software AND apply
mentioned -1 brigtness if I want to.
The problem with using Active D-Lighting is that it changes the way the camera meters -- particularly with Matrix metering. You can mitigate this tendency by using at Low with Center-weighted metering.
 
Yes I might do that sometimes later, for know weather is pretty bad- overcast and 1/2 time is raining. It also depends a lot how picky you are and or if you monitor it calibrated properly. You'd be very suprised how slight changes in your monitor's adjustments, ( again- especially pay attention on gamma on red green and blue channel) affect the overal picture and thus final effect on how to see or not be able to see the slight differences in innacurate colors.

In my testing so far- about 400 or so shots, the colors blowing ( clipping ) in everything BUT D2x mode II. mode 3 is way off and vivid is just horrible alltogether.
--

I'm just an amateur shooting bunch of Jpeg's and hoping every once in a while something comes out OK.

http://www.pbase.com/jps1979/galleries
 
In my testing so far- about 400 or so shots, the colors blowing (
clipping ) in everything BUT D2x mode II. mode 3 is way off and vivid
is just horrible alltogether.
I dont recognise this problem at all!

There is either something wrong with your camera or you are not nailing the exposure.
--
Phil_L
 

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