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Sypder3 Elite?

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cbusi

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Hello I just bought and ran the Sypder3 monitor calibration on my LCD. I am wondering if anybody has done this or calibrated their screen? My screen now is looking like it is washed out. I never post process but know I will start so I wanted to get this. I am just wondering if this is how everything is supposed to look? And if my screen is now correct then the pictures I get from camera must be horrible (and every other screen I have ever seen the pictures on)

Also if I were to make the pictures look good on my monitor the way it looks now I am sure they would look horrible on everybody else’s monitor is that right?

If anybody could go to http://www.thisworldthroughmyeyes.com/people/DandSFamily/jonah/jonahindex.html (that isn’t a public site just a quick way to get pictures to my sister.) Anyway before calibration the pictures looked ok…now he doesn’t even look human. Can somebody with a calibrated monitor look at them and let me know if they are really that bad and just all the not calibrated monitors make it look ok? From the advertising and blogs everybody acted like there monitors look a lot better after calibration but this isn’t better. There isn’t any color cast (I read about some people getting a green color cast)

Anyway any help would be appreciated

Thanks,
Chris
 
The site you point to looks fine to me. Spyder 2 calibrated.

I'd suggest that you do another calibration round on your monitor. Check all the settings on the monitor itself, such as brightness and contrast and RGB. Go ahead and follow the Spyder procedure all the way through- they usually suggest leaving the monitor at default settings rather than doing any adjustments yourself.

One thing to check is the luminance level of the calibration. I don't know how your system works, but on mine, there is a preliminary calibration that gives me a luminance reading; I forget the units. My LCD default is very very bright. I change this to get a reading around 105 units.
--
Dan Daniel

http://dandaniel.zenfolio.com/
WSSA #180PX
 
--
hello. I did the same 2 weeks ago and I had the same impression that you got.

Now that I started to get used to it it seems a lot better. In any case all my picture now need a strong contrast enhancement. By the way I looked at yous gallery and it does nott seems so bad (only need a contrast enhancement).

What I really do not like of my calibrated monitor is that dark areas of the picture (especially if it is underexposed a bit), that before calibration was almost black with little or no details, now it is not black anymore but it is really noisy with very confused edges if I look at full pixel size.

At beginning I was thinking that I had a defective camera (I just got a new K20d) and that I was able to discover the problem only with a calibrated monitor but then I found out that even my old pictures shot with *ist ds got the same problem so I do not think it is the camera.

My current impression is that my monitor (hp1702) is not capable to render effectively such colors (it is more evident if the color is a dark blue but it is visible even with dark grey). Does someone have idea of what it can be?

best regards
Marco
 
Definitely try recalibrating. Make sure you aren't in a very bright room. I have the spyder 3 as well and I have had wacky calibration at times, when the ambient light is very bright.

I have never calibrated a monitor and had it look drastically different.

The photos on that site don't look bad.
--
matt rickman
k10d
colorado
 
I use a similar calibrator for my HP w2408h monitor and the colours seems fine to me. Btw. the K20D seems to capture all the fine details and rendering the colours very good, I am impressed! I hope I can afford a K20D pretty soon since my K100D seems to be outdated when it comes to resolving details.

All the best from
--
Hjalmar
 
Is the Spyder3 better than the Spyder 2?
Only the software or also the hardware?

Thx.
SpaceDoc
.
 
I really don't know, have never used Spyder 2, only Spyder 3. Maybe someone else can help?
--
Hjalmar
 
I bought my Spyder3 Pro a week ago and my first calibration gave me a bit of a surprise, yielding a bit of a warmish, washed-out cast to the display. As far as I understand this is due to our perception having been tricked to accept the bluish, cold cast of uncalibrated monitors as the standard (the cold cast being an effect of gearing lcd's to the ambient light of big malls where most consumers buy from).

I'd suggest a recalibration from scratch, paying attention to every step, but also being prepared for this seemingly "washed-out" effect -- it takes a couple of hours of getting used to. I've found out that my lcd (Samsung 710T) is best calibrated when I manually fine-tune the RGB values during the calibration process (I'm able to achieve the difference from the target values as low as 0.04 Dab). My luminance is a bit low, though (around 90 cd/m^2) and I think I'll try experimenting with getting it somewhere around 120 and see what happens then.

The good thing about calibration is that I'm finally getting sRGB jpegs looking pretty similar to what I do with my PEF's in the ProPhoto colour-space of LR2. Plus the print-outs give me much more predictable results (maybe not perfect, since I don't have a fancy printer and don't use expensive paper).
--
Marcin
http://flickr.com/photos/sankos/
 
thx ... a lot to read for tomorrow.

first impression:
same hardware, different software(functions) ... but same precision???

SpaceDoc
.
 
At work we use spyder 2s and a spyder 3. The spyder 3 is way faster to do the calibration and appears more constantly accurate.

when running the calibration target value for brightness is 80-120 120 being for a "bright" office type environment and 80 for very subdued or no lighting.

Your colours look fine only issue i really see is a lack of contrast, which is an effect of the monitors default to produce a punchy image.
--
Chris.

http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/chriside

GMT +9.5

Pentax SLR talk FAQ
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1036&message=23161072
 
I was using a Spyder and have switched to a ColorMunki for no other readon other that it will also do printers.

Your shots look fine to me .

Mike
 
SpaceDoc said:
Is the Spyder3 better than the Spyder 2?
Only the software or also the hardware?
Click to expand...
Spyder3 has a better hardware then Spyder2/2Pro...

Spyder2 = Spyder2 Pro - the difference is in software only

--
Pentax dSLR (K20D/*istDL) + Panasonic P&S (LX3)
 
I bought the spyder 3 elite only one month after it was announced. (End of 2007)

Because of this reason, the first versions of the software from cd still were a bit buggy.

But after downloading updates from datacolor.ch, the software worked fine.

I recommend to look for new driver and software version perhaps one times in a month.

Last month, when I installed an nvidia driver update for my graphics card, I had some problems.
 
I've had my Spyder 3 Elite for a few months now and once you figure it out it works well. Here's what I found:

Work in a room with lower light and be sure to let the Spyder check the ambient light. Makes a big difference in your final outcome.

Reset the monitor to its default values and do a preliminary calibration (being sure to check ambient light). Note that if you have a cheaper TN monitor you're probably best to leave the RGB values as is because trying to adjust them will often leave you with strange colour casts (the Spyder help mentions this). The software always creates a colour profile based on what it reads.

Once you've done your initial calibration then you can adjust the brightness and contrast to more comfortable levels. I have problems with excessively bright monitors and find that brightness in particular can be quite a bit less than the recommended value without affecting the appearance of an image. Repeat the calibration--with the new brightness/contrast values--and see how everything looks. To check the accuracy of the calibration I find it helpful to take a picture of something that is fairly colourful and compare the "developed" image to the original.

You may need to repeat this process two or three times (slowly tweaking settings to get an accurate profile) but in the end you should be pretty happy with the results. Write down any settings you can and re-calibrate the monitor every month or so to adjust for drift...

--
Look at the picture, not the pixels...
http://www.lkeithr.zenfolio.com
 
cbusi said:
Hello I just bought and ran the Sypder3 monitor calibration on my
LCD. I am wondering if anybody has done this or calibrated their
screen? My screen now is looking like it is washed out. I never
post process but know I will start so I wanted to get this. I am
just wondering if this is how everything is supposed to look? And if
my screen is now correct then the pictures I get from camera must be
horrible (and every other screen I have ever seen the pictures on)

Also if I were to make the pictures look good on my monitor the way
it looks now I am sure they would look horrible on everybody else’s
monitor is that right?

If anybody could go to

http://www.thisworldthroughmyeyes.com/people/DandSFamily/jonah/jonahindex.html (that isn’t a public site just a quick way to get pictures to my sister.) Anyway before calibration the pictures looked ok…now he doesn’t even look human. Can somebody with a calibrated monitor look at them and let me know if they are really that bad and just all the not calibrated monitors make it look ok? From the advertising and blogs everybody acted like there monitors look a lot better after calibration but this isn’t better. There isn’t any color cast (I read about some people getting a green color cast)
Click to expand...
Hi,

I have the Spyder3 Elite and have calibrated my lcd screen. I let the calibrator measure the ambient light and put my screen to the default factory settings. My screens now looks much better. Especially it now shows more details in the darker areas.

I looked at some pictures you linked to and they are a little washed out at least on my screen.

Hope this helps.
--
Anna
 
Mousehill said:
Mike Muizebelt said:
all right: then it's between Spyder3 Pro and Elite
Click to expand...
Did you consider the DTP94?
Click to expand...
What's so much better with the DTP94 versus Spyder3 hardware???

I know the DTP94 is much better than the Spyder2 - but is the difference to the Spyder3 that extreme?

Problem with the DTP94: you only can buy the hardware theses days, it does not comem with the software which you'd have to buy on top. Much more hassle than a 1-2-3-ready-out-of-the-box solution [esp. for a non-professional like me].

Btw: I would operate the system on both Mac and Windows, and probably Linux in future.

Thx.

SpaceDoc
.
 
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