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CP995 & external speedlight in TTL mode?

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Uncle Frank

Uncle Frank

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I recently bought a Rollbar bracket and an SB-22s. The rig looks really impressive, but the results are less so. In the TTL mode, the flash seems to fire at full power on every shot. If you've had success with an external speedlight, I'd appreciate your suggestions on getting my 995 to talk to control the flash output.

Thanks in advance,
Frank R.
 
I usually do this -

Set speedlight to TTL
  • on camera -
1) go to m-rec menu and turn OFF the internal flash (or it will also flash)
third menu ( S - setup) and scroll etc.
2) set the white balance to speedlight
3) OPEN THE INTERNAL FLASH BEFORE FIRING.

Are you doing #1

David
 
David Coles said:
I usually do this -

Set speedlight to TTL
  • on camera -
1) go to m-rec menu and turn OFF the internal flash (or it will
also flash)
third menu ( S - setup) and scroll etc.
2) set the white balance to speedlight
3) OPEN THE INTERNAL FLASH BEFORE FIRING.

Are you doing #1

David
Click to expand...
Yes, though it was a little tricky of Nikon to make you select to turn the internal speedlight off . I did #3 as well, of course, or the external wouldn't have fired at all. As far as #2 is concerned, white balance seems OK in the position. My problem is with controlling the flash intensity.
 
I have that exact same setup. One thing I noticed was that it is somewhat difficult to get the flash unit properly seated in the hotshoe. It is a snug fit. If you aren't properly seated, you may not be getting all the contacts ... um, contacted? Have you verified this?

HTH,
  • Mike
Frank R. said:
I recently bought a Rollbar bracket and an SB-22s. The rig looks
really impressive, but the results are less so. In the TTL mode,
the flash seems to fire at full power on every shot. If you've had
success with an external speedlight, I'd appreciate your
suggestions on getting my 995 to talk to control the flash output.

Thanks in advance,
Frank R.
Click to expand...
 
I have a 990 and have the same brightness issues although I bought a Sunpak flash that I knew was not ttl. I decrease the flash power in the flash unit itself. My best results though come from using a bounce card or regular bounce. Sometimes I move back from the subject. I usually review my first flash in a setting to make sure I like what I get. When I find the correct camera/flash manipulation I'll stay with that.
Michael Go said:
HTH,
  • Mike
Frank R. said:
I recently bought a Rollbar bracket and an SB-22s. The rig looks
really impressive, but the results are less so. In the TTL mode,
the flash seems to fire at full power on every shot. If you've had
success with an external speedlight, I'd appreciate your
suggestions on getting my 995 to talk to control the flash output.

Thanks in advance,
Frank R.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
Hello, Frank:

I get excellent results with an SB28 and a Rollbar ( I think your strobe will work the same) by:
Set the camera to Auto mode.
Set the flash to TTL mode.
Fire away.



For very close shots, I use a Micro Apallo by Westcott. You can get them in many camera stores.



HTH. PatiO.
mark Brown said:
mark Brown said:
Frank R. said:
I recently bought a Rollbar bracket and an SB-22s. The rig looks
really impressive, but the results are less so. In the TTL mode,
the flash seems to fire at full power on every shot. If you've had
success with an external speedlight, I'd appreciate your
suggestions on getting my 995 to talk to control the flash output.

Thanks in advance,
Frank R.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
Hi, PatiO. I've seen that excellent shot of your dogs before, but do you have any successful examples of pics of humans using your flash rig? White dogs are difficult, but provide a niche example, because their skin isn't reflective.

As far as using the [auto] mode, both the manual for the 995 and the sb22s say that the external flash can be used in manual mode. After spending 6 months learning how to use spot metering, manual focus, etc., I'd be very disappointed if I had to go back to [auto].

Regards
 
Michael Go said:
I have that exact same setup. One thing I noticed was that it is
somewhat difficult to get the flash unit properly seated in the
hotshoe. It is a snug fit. If you aren't properly seated, you may
not be getting all the contacts ... um, contacted? Have you
verified this?
Click to expand...
Hi, Mike. Thanks for picking up on this thread. Yes, I reseated the flash several times to ensure a bad connection wasn't the problem, with no differernce in results. Is your camera/flash working as advertised, ie adjusting the output based on the light on the subject?
 
mark Brown said:
I have a 990 and have the same brightness issues although I bought
a Sunpak flash that I knew was not ttl. I decrease the flash power
in the flash unit itself. My best results though come from using a
bounce card or regular bounce. Sometimes I move back from the
subject. I usually review my first flash in a setting to make sure
I like what I get. When I find the correct camera/flash
manipulation I'll stay with that.
Click to expand...
I'm having to go through the same steps, Mark. If that's as good as it gets, I was foolish in spending the extra bucks to buy a Nikon flash. The only reason I did so was to get TTL performance.
 
To be honest, I haven't used it much. I haven't had it very long and haven't done anything with it beyond verifying that the flash actually flashes. Sorry!
  • Mike
Frank R. said:
Michael Go said:
I have that exact same setup. One thing I noticed was that it is
somewhat difficult to get the flash unit properly seated in the
hotshoe. It is a snug fit. If you aren't properly seated, you may
not be getting all the contacts ... um, contacted? Have you
verified this?
Click to expand...
Hi, Mike. Thanks for picking up on this thread. Yes, I reseated
the flash several times to ensure a bad connection wasn't the
problem, with no differernce in results. Is your camera/flash
working as advertised, ie adjusting the output based on the light
on the subject?
Click to expand...
 
David Coles said:
I usually do this -

Set speedlight to TTL
  • on camera -
1) go to m-rec menu and turn OFF the internal flash (or it will
also flash)
third menu ( S - setup) and scroll etc.
2) set the white balance to speedlight
3) OPEN THE INTERNAL FLASH BEFORE FIRING.

Are you doing #1

David
Click to expand...
David, if you earlier response to you didn't make sense, it's because I forgot that you can't use the caret character on DPR. Let me restate it:

Yes to #1, though was a little tricky of Nikon to make you select [ON] to turn the internal speedlight OFF. I did #3 as well, of course, or the external wouldn't have fired at all. As for #2, white balance seems OK in the [auto] position. Triggering off the camera is just fine; my problem is getting the camera to control the flash's intensity.
 
Hello, Frank:

Yes, I have posted the doggie pic before. Its the only one I have on the web that shows off a closeup using the flash and softbox in combo. I'll dig around and see what else I have of people that might help you. PatiO.
Frank R. said:
Hi, PatiO. I've seen that excellent shot of your dogs before, but
do you have any successful examples of pics of humans using your
flash rig? White dogs are difficult, but provide a niche example,
because their skin isn't reflective.

As far as using the [auto] mode, both the manual for the 995 and
the sb22s say that the external flash can be used in manual mode.
After spending 6 months learning how to use spot metering, manual
focus, etc., I'd be very disappointed if I had to go back to [auto].

Regards
Click to expand...
 
Here's a snap using the little softbox on the SB28. The skintone is very accurate in this one. I like it because it helps to avoid blowouts.



PS7 Auto Levels and USM 150,0.2 and rezed down for the web.

This is not a setup for portaiture, but it works very well at events, parties, etc.
HTH. PatiO.
Frank R. said:
Hi, PatiO. I've seen that excellent shot of your dogs before, but
do you have any successful examples of pics of humans using your
flash rig? White dogs are difficult, but provide a niche example,
because their skin isn't reflective.

As far as using the [auto] mode, both the manual for the 995 and
the sb22s say that the external flash can be used in manual mode.
After spending 6 months learning how to use spot metering, manual
focus, etc., I'd be very disappointed if I had to go back to [auto].

Regards
Click to expand...
 
Thanks, PatiO. Your sb28 and softbox seem to be giving you good results as flash fill. Do you have any photos that were taken in low ambient lighting situations, where the flash was required?

Frank
 
Frank

If you want to see some low light pics ... you can go to my web site at http://fotogold.com

I do event photography and most of it is at night. I have a 990 and a 995 but I think most of the ones on the site right now are from the 995. Since I don't have much time to compose etc., I usually go with Auto mode. I use a Promaster 7700M flash (guide #139) ... I have no problem with the TTL working on either camera(in auto or manual). My biggest problem is that the flash is so powerful that if I am closer than 12' or so it will wash out the light tones. Since I don't want the either camera's built-in flash to cause red-eye I've put duct tape over them .. it hasn't hurt either of them even after 15000 or so shots. (CYA .. don't anyone tape your flash based on my experience .. if you try it, you're on your own)
 
Yes, the one I last posted, the guy in the cap, was in a dimly lit room. Only one window high on a wall behind the camera. I would have had to increase the ISO drastically or went on a tripod to take that image without flash. In fact, the first shot I tried came out very dark because I had forgot to pop up the onboard flash. HTH. PatiO.
Frank R. said:
Thanks, PatiO. Your sb28 and softbox seem to be giving you good
results as flash fill. Do you have any photos that were taken in
low ambient lighting situations, where the flash was required?

Frank
Click to expand...
 
If you guys want even better flash shots, try holding your flash off camera at arms length and pointing it either at your subjects from a 45 degree angle or pointing it at a wall or ceiling. Everything comes out much better.

You can do this with a relatively inexpensive 5' coil extension Nikon provides(SC-17). Simply mount your AS-E900 on the Rollbar. Slide one end of the SC-17 coil cord into the AS-E900 and the other end connects to your strobe. (See the details at http://www.therollbar.com/product_info.htm#offcameralocation )

Then you are free to hold the strobe up high to completely eliminate redeye, or from an angle to avoid that flat, headon lighting that says "On camera flash!". HTH. PatiO.
 
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