Reading mode: Light Dark

40D "can not Shoot".....help please

Go to last post
ARShutterbug said:
Actually, it is very obvious when my camera is overheating due to my
use of Live View. The hot sensation in my grip and the smell coming
through the back of the camera tells me that I should switch the Live
View off soon. Failure to allow the sensor to cool means hot pixels,
which means more money spent removing them. I do not need some
stupid sensor to tell me
Click to expand...
So you don't want Canon putting a "stupid" temperature safetly sensor in the camera because you want to use your "stupid" nose instead. You're funny. For me, it's too late if I can smell it...besides...what if I have a cold virus and nasal congestion?

I suspect you still don't realize that the temperature sensor is protecting the camera's CMOS sensor from permanent damage caused from sunlight during liveview overheating.
 
ARShutterbug said:
It's only common sense, which a bunch of consumers apparently
lack.
Click to expand...
And there's the nub of it.

You seem to think that Canon should make a camera just for you, that suits the way you want it to work, and not for the vast majority of people who neither know or care about sensor temperature and other technical things, but don't want the camera to fail on them and end with a large repair bill.

If you ask Canon nicely, I'm sure they'll make a special edition for you with all of the "stupid sensors" taken out. Get your wallet out.
 
ARShutterbug said:
Actually, it is very obvious when my camera is overheating due to my
use of Live View. The hot sensation in my grip and the smell coming
through the back of the camera tells me that I should switch the Live
View off soon.
Click to expand...
I assume that you apple the same reasoning to safety at home, and refuse to have any of those "stupid sensors" that detect smoke, because your nose will alert you to the fact that you're about to get burnt to death in a house fire one night, probably caused by you disabling one of those "stupid temperature sensors" in your boiler.
 
Hi Greg,

There is really no way of knowing what happened to his camera. The usb circuit carries 5vdc at the computer end and I have seen situations before where an attached device took a hit from this current. Also, the fact that his problem manifested just after a usb to camera download is suspicious. I am sure that there are dozens of things that could cause this problem, and the fact that a particular one of these things caused his problem does not mean that the same issue had to cause your problem. Did Canon have any ideas about your issue? What did they replace?

I hope the OP will post a summary after he gets his camera back.

Cheers.
--
Best regards,
Jim

Gallery at:
http://www.pbase.com/borderrose/viewgallery
 
Thanks for the info. I have no idea what caused the problem in my camera. It started while I was out taking photos and made the camera completely unusable. I took my camera back to Best Buy the next day and swapped it out for a different unit so I don't know what actually went wrong with my original 40D.

Greg

--



http://www.pbase.com/dadas115/
 
Smoke alarms can be deactivated, gas shutoff valves can be bypassed, and the temperature sensor on my workstation can be removed. A stupid sensor is one that can only be active or inactive, and it sends a signal to other devices to do things that are obligatory, such as hardware commands without any bypass allowed from the operator. The stupid sensor cannot determine if it is in error. A non-stupid sensor can be calibrated to determine if the existing conditions match the expected norms, and if the person tells the sensor otherwise, the sensor will accept that it was incorrect.

What these "nanny features" are doing is like connecting a smoke alarm to the power and gas inputs for a kitchen, and taking away the ability to deactivate the alarm. Every time someone burnt food on the stove, the smoke alarm would sound and cut power and gas to the building, and restarting would require technicians to pull the system apart.

--
http://www.pbase.com/arshutterbug/
 
--
Hi Jim

This was something I didn't think of. I had misplaced my card reader, other wise I never link up camera straight to the laptop.The camera had been disconected for a while as I was cleaning the camera. I then took one shot on TV mode and switched to Program mode for the same shot when it struck.

By the way the camera is currently with the local agents, who are talking to Canon SIngapore to try and figure it out. If not back to the USA in mid Jan

thanks
 
That's all nice. I mean the parts of your posts about your nose and other senses being able to determine the validity of a safety system shutdown in real time. I figure that if I'm in the heat of the moment, I would prefer to rely on a highly reliable sensor to tell me that something is wrong, and switch to my backup camera to carry on. After all, I am too busy, and not conected with my camera well enough to second guess the triggered sensor. As Jim H mentioned, how often have you heard of a sensor failure here?

Keep in mind that the sensor in question has nothing to do but monitor a single function. I have lots to do, and would prefer to deal with the shutdown later, as opposed to risk letting the smoke out of my bread and butter camera.

I might spend far too much time and money on my automotive passion than most sane people would agree with, but even then, after spending $9,000 for a Cosworth short block for my Subaru, I wouldn't second guess the judgement of the $20 oil pressure sensor that is tied into the ECU for a single second. If the ECU shut the motor down for a low oil pressure call, I would find out why the event took place, and never even consider thinking about how to overide the error first.

The same for a camera system. If there was an error logged that caused a shutdown, you need to switch to a backup body. If you don't have one or two, and you are taking serious photographs for serious customers, you are in way over your head, and you will be burned at some point in time. If the sensor is bad, get it repaired so it can do it's job properly. If the sensor is correct, and your nose is wrong, it just saved you lots of money, and maybe lots of images as well.

Modern camera tech has not become a "Nanny". It has offered us many new tools, and a solid means of measuring/maintaining performance. Embrace it.
ARShutterbug said:
Can Canon install a disabling sensor that prevents idiots from using
their pop-up flashes during stage performances, and another sensor to
disable the "beep-beep-chunk-chunk-beep-beep-beeeeep" noises from the
digicams when the room is quiet? That would be more useful to me and
the audiences.

I actually have one Canon device that does have a disabling sensor,
and that is my 580EX flash. It supposedly prevents overheating by
shutting down after an extended strobe, but there is a way to bypass
it; according to the manual, this may cause damage to the flash. I
know enough not to try it unless it was necessary. Excessive heat
coming from the flash head is very obvious, and it tells me that I
should switch off the flash for a few minutes, and maybe consider
changing the batteries while I am waiting for the flash head to cool
down. It's only common sense, which a bunch of consumers apparently
lack.

--
Click to expand...
--
Voyager
 
The problem now is that this particular camera is obviously not hot, and it is costing the owner to ship it to another country. That is really annoying, and a waste of money. I like it when technology does what it is told to do, and if it has a problem, then I like it when it explains what the problem is and what should be done to fix it. A broken warning sensor should not cause the whole device to become unusable. The owner should always have the option to ignore erroneous status messages, and fix the problem at the owner's convenience.

A problem with switching to other camera bodies during an event is that those bodies are either mounted to other lenses or they are not immediately available. There could be five minutes left of an event, and I only need a few more shots. Stopping to switch cameras and lenses at that point would be a big problem. The camera can wait until I'm done shooting, and if it somehow overheats, at least I get the coverage.

The risk of an SLR sensor overheating is very low. I am more worried about the heat from my compact camera. It is very obvious when the camera is overheating, but I decide when to shut down. If I ignore the warning in the manual about the heat from Live View usage damaging my CF cards, that is my problem. That's what I will continue to expect from my cameras, the responsibility for use being mine, not some computer program.

--
http://www.pbase.com/arshutterbug/
 
Tech said no promises that they would repair it for free, but it could happen.

I'm pretty sure it's the card, and not easily reproduced without that same card. It's never happened before with smaller capacity cards. I really don't want to send it in. Most likely they'd send it back and do nothing because they wouldn't be able to reproduce the error in the lab. Been swapping lenses every few hours and taking a few shots. Hasn't happened again even with the cheapo Ridata card.

I'll take my chances until it becomes common, and easy to reproduce.

Thanks for the thoughts Tim.
TimR32225 said:
Canon did it for my 1d MkIIN even though it was a almost a year out
of warranty.

Good luck...
Schwany said:
Your troubleshooting steps would have fixed the issue if it could be
fixed easily by the user. The camera did overheat, overheats as soon
as it's turned on, or part of that sensor circuit failed.

Oddly enough, I got the Busy yesterday after switching lenses. First
sign was I couldn't change the aperture. Turned camera off and back
on. Everything seemed normal until I took the next shot. Then I got
the Busy lock up. Camera was stuck in a write loop. Been having
problems with the 40D every since I bought a Ridata 8GB lightening
series card. The first cheap card to ever give me grief. Anyway, I
basically did what you did except for removing the PRAM battery. Lost
the files on the CF card - camera couldn't create folder, but after a
format the camera started working again. Canon says to send it in. My
warranty expired last week. Glorious

At least yours went inside the warranty period. Not a real confidence
inspiring situation regardless. Makes me wonder if the D in the xxD
series is for Disposable. ;-) :-)
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
The only mem cards I have ever had problems with were Ridata cards and the way the problems happened was pretty much exactly how you described it. Shortly after the cards started behaving like you described they totally failed. Ridata did replace them under warranty but I had to go through about 4 replacement cards before I got one that actually worked.

Needless to say I won’t be buying or using any more Ridata cards in the future.

Greg

--



http://www.pbase.com/dadas115/
 
Given this experience, I won't purchase another Ridata of any size or description.

I need to contact them and start the fun process you went through.

Have you ever filled a 8GB Ridata card? I would imagine it would be full of corrupted files. I was getting about 1% or 3 in every 300. Very annoying as they make DPP go nuts.

Maybe this is going a little too far off topic. But the OP started it. ;-)
PeaceFrog said:
The only mem cards I have ever had problems with were Ridata cards
and the way the problems happened was pretty much exactly how you
described it. Shortly after the cards started behaving like you
described they totally failed. Ridata did replace them under
warranty but I had to go through about 4 replacement cards before I
got one that actually worked.

Needless to say I won’t be buying or using any more Ridata cards in
the future.

Greg
Click to expand...
 
Ummmm, you're kidding with this suggestion right? Please tell me you are. Because if you are serious about this idea, it is a poorly thought out one. Why? Let's look at that.

1. Even if the temp sensor is bad (which may or may not be correct, I don't know), how do you remove it? You would have to open the case. The camera WAS out of warranty. Now it's not. No chance of EVER getting service from Canon under warranty. Period

2. If you decide to crack the case, what does the sensor look like, and where is it located? Pretty good chance it's on a pc board with other components

3. What, probably specialized, tools would be needed to remove the sensor

4. If you solve the above problems, will the camera even power up without it?

5. If the camera powers up, where do you get a replacement part from?

6. By opening the case, you've now introduced far more dust and other contaminants than you ever do when swapping lenses to the inside of the case

And these are just a few of the issues I thought of in 5 minutes. I'm sure there are tons of other issues with this idea. As much as I hate to suggest it, if the problem doesn't / didn't clear on it's own, a trip to a Canon SC might be in the 40's future
 
Marinersgeek said:
Ummmm, you're kidding with this suggestion right? Please tell me you
are. Because if you are serious about this idea, it is a poorly
thought out one.
Click to expand...
I can't decide if he's just full of hot air, or really thinks he can disable the sensor in a 40D without voiding the warranty. Either way, we're all flogging a dead horse trying to get him to accept the reason for the sensor being there and doing what it does.
 
This is an old post, but since these cameras are a little older now and not all under warrantee anymore I though I would put this information out there.

I'm currently trouble shooting a 40D, and although it didn't originally have a temperature sensor issue, while I was working with it I triggered one. Basically if the shutter is not plugged in it says it is over temperature. So that leads me to believe that the temperature sensor is on the shutter assembly. This line of logic also leads me to think that a shutter error, or shutter connection error could lead to this faulty reading in other cameras. So if someone was looking to correct this problem themselves, then checking the shutter connection (under the front face plate of the camera) or replacing the shutter may be the way to go. Hope this helps someone out there. Now I'm off to figure out the original issue.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Keyboard shortcuts

f
Forum
m
My threads
Mobile site
About
Editorial content
Cameras & Lenses
Community
All content, design, and layout are Copyright © 1998–2025 Digital Photography Review All Rights Reserved.
Reproduction in whole or part in any form or medium without specific written permission is prohibited.
When you use DPReview links to buy products, the site may earn a commission.
©GPS Media - Guides, Products, Services.
Back
Top