Fitting a Ricoh LC-1 lenscap to the LX-3

Timcorc

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Let me start by saying that I have not found the "dangling lens-cap on a string" to be a problem, either on my previous LX-1 or my new LX-3. However, I was intrigued by the LC-1 from lots of descriptions on dpreview. So, as others have recommended, I ordered one from Adorama (fast service and delivery) and here is what I did to make it work. Perhaps others will find it useful.

Firstly, the LC-1 is designed to fit to custom mounting tabs on the Ricoh cameras. It is NOT a screw-thread mount. To screw it onto the LX-3 required brute force and seemed so tight to me that the LC-1 was in danger of cracking. So, the first thing I did was use my trusty Dremel tool to wear down the tabs on the LC-1, just a little. My cap will now slip on with gentle pressure but is in no danger of falling off. Remember, the screw-threads on the LX3 lens barrel have to be exposed, so you will need to unscrew/remove the finishing ring on the front of the LX-3 to use the LC-1 lens cap.

The second problem is avoiding vignetting. Basically the LX-3 lens as it extends has to push the three spring-loaded three swing-out flaps open. I resolved this with self-stick felt (purchased at Jo-Anns Fabric store for $1.49). I cut squares of 8mm and stacked three deep. You need 3 stacks, mounted as shown here:



At full tele the flaps look like they should vignette but I have no problems:



I developed the three-layer depth to the pads by trial and error, your felt might be a different thickness. You need to compromise between wide and tele modes. On mine, at wide mode, the outer barrel of the lens mechanism pushes sideways against the felt as shown here:



The felt is quite sticky but you might want super-glue for a finished version. Start with the self-stick option as it allows you to experiment with placement. Study my first pic to see the placement of the squares (NOT flush with the sides of the LC-1).

So that's it. Any questions, just ask below and I'll try to answer.

Tim
 
I used thick foam insulation tape that I got at the hardware store. Then trimmed it down to the appropriate size through trial and error so that the thick part is near the base of the cap and tapers as it goes towards the tip. This makes for a smooth action as the lens barrel goes in and out.
 
I wouldn't put superglue anywhere near my lens. U also put too much tape on the flaps. It's gonna fall off after a while.
--
http://ianho.blogspot.com - LX3 vs D-Lux4 comparison pics.
  • LX3/ DL4 auto lens cap mod.
 
Good suggestions both.

Always allow super-glue to fully cure (fumes are VERY VERY bad for lenses :-)
Maybe safer to avoid altogether.

I thought of staggering the layers of felt as you did by angling the weather-stripping but in the end settled on my current approach when I saw how it worked out. I might try angling if these pads come lose/whatever.

Tim
 
Looks good but does it add vignetting?
--
Dez,

that's what the felt pad modifications are for... & @ full tele you'd be surprised at just how closed the cap can be & still not vig....

The only thing that can't be completely avoided but can be significantly reduced is that one of the doors casts a very light shadow in the bottom right corner when the on-board flash is used... You can twist the cap to minimize it but I haven't found a position that eliminates it completely...

If you use the on-board flash a lot, it might be too much of a bother but I'm betting that more often than not the little shadow down in the right corner won't be.... Unless you shoot blank, white walls a lot...
--
The Amateur Formerly Known as 'UZ'pShoot'ERS' 'Happy Shootin' Comments, Critique, Ridicule, Limericks, Jokes, Hi-jackings, EnthUZIastically, Encouraged... I Insist!



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Looks good but does it add vignetting?
--
Dez,
that's what the felt pad modifications are for... & @ full tele you'd
be surprised at just how closed the cap can be & still not vig....
The only thing that can't be completely avoided but can be
significantly reduced is that one of the doors casts a very light
shadow in the bottom right corner when the on-board flash is used...
You can twist the cap to minimize it but I haven't found a position
that eliminates it completely...
If you use the on-board flash a lot, it might be too much of a bother
but I'm betting that more often than not the little shadow down in
the right corner won't be.... Unless you shoot blank, white walls a
lot...
Thanks for the info but right now, Im getting a shadow on the right hand corner when using the Flash, so this may pronounce it.
--
Dez

http://photos.dezmix.com

 
I don't use flash, so that's not really an issue for me. However, I am about to try this mod, and was wondering whether it made more sense to try and trim the depth of the LC-1 cap - it looks as if you could take 4 or 5 mm off without affecting either the springs or the ability to fit on the LX3 thread.

Has anyone tried this?

R
 
I don't use flash, so that's not really an issue for me. However, I
am about to try this mod, and was wondering whether it made more
sense to try and trim the depth of the LC-1 cap - it looks as if you
could take 4 or 5 mm off without affecting either the springs or the
ability to fit on the LX3 thread.

Has anyone tried this?

R
That may be possible but it's a really tight pressure fit although I take it off without too much extra effort, whenever the tube is needed... The tabs that hold it to the threads are very close to the edge of the frame, where I'm assuming you plan to try & whittle down... You'll only have the thickness of what looks to be a few sheets of paper till you come to the tabs... Besides, if you whittle too much away, the pads needed to spread the doors far enough so they don't vig @ full tele, may rest on the lens causing the doors not to close flush... Maybe... You'll probably be able to figure that out once you get them together..

--
The Amateur Formerly Known as 'UZ'pShoot'ERS' 'Happy Shootin' Comments, Critique, Ridicule, Limericks, Jokes, Hi-jackings, EnthUZIastically, Encouraged... I Insist!



http://www.pbase.com/rrawzz/image/106012183/original * [email protected] * http://www.pbase.com/rrawzz *
Lx3Fz50Fz30C8080wzE100rsC2100uz
 
A couple of question regarding LC-1 lenscap on LX3:
1. If lx3 will still fit inside the Panasonic DMW-CLX3K case with LC-1 cap?
2. Dust on the lens problem?
 
A couple of question regarding LC-1 lenscap on LX3:
1. If lx3 will still fit inside the Panasonic DMW-CLX3K case with
LC-1 cap?
2. Dust on the lens problem?
I can;t answer the case question, since I don;t have that case...

As for dust, probably not going to prevent it from getting to the lens because there's a gap between each of the doors plenty wide enough for dust to get through... about all the doors will stop is fingers & larger than dust objects....

--
The Amateur Formerly Known as 'UZ'pShoot'ERS' 'Happy Shootin' Comments, Critique, Ridicule, Limericks, Jokes, Hi-jackings, EnthUZIastically, Encouraged... I Insist!



* [email protected] * http://www.pbase.com/rrawzz *
Lx3Fz50Fz30C8080wzE100rsC2100uz
 

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