580Ex II: Need tips for manual mode & recycle times

GimmeHd

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I have Canon 5D with 580ex II flash. I want to start using the manual mode because I am not getting good result with ETTL (underexposure). Most of the time, I have to set the FEC to +1 in order to get a well exposed shot.

I need your help or tips for using this flash in manual mode, for example, the power level (full, 1/2, 1/4, etc). I you use a flash in manual model, what is your preferred f-stop?

Lastly, how can I minimize the recycle times? I have Sanyo Eneloope 2000mAh batteries. Thanks
 
Hey there,

What type of shooting are you doing? Are you constantly on the move with different lighting conditions or in a studio? If you're moving around, I believe ETTL is the best way to expose on the fly. If you're in a studio or a fixed position, that's a different story.

I'd up your batteries to something a bit more powerful. I believe they make up to 2700.

I just got my flash (580ex II) and have been doing a ton of reading.

Best site I've found so far is this one:

http://www.planetneil.com/tangents/flash-photography-techniques/

I highly recommend you read this page about metering (manual vs. EETL)

http://www.planetneil.com/tangents/flash-photography-techniques/7-metering-techniques/

Cheers!
 
I have Canon 5D with 580ex II flash. I want to start using the manual
mode because I am not getting good result with ETTL (underexposure).
Most of the time, I have to set the FEC to +1 in order to get a well
exposed shot.
The usual setting for Canon ETTL is +2/3

Try setting it (using the custom functions) to average rather than ETTL, it is more consistant.
I need your help or tips for using this flash in manual mode, for
example, the power level (full, 1/2, 1/4, etc). I you use a flash in
manual model, what is your preferred f-stop?
Manual is manual, it is up to you and your lens. What is the best f-stop for you lens and for your image?

I use manual most of the time, but I use a meter, When you are using the speedlites in manual mode, you are using them like low powered studio lights. With modifiers, you will not be able to get small apertures. What are you shooting?

Brain A.
 
Thanks guys for the helpful information and links. I normally shoot events which require constant movement. Based on what I read above, I guess it is better to stick with ETTL and leave the FEC at +2/3. I was concerned that setting the FEC to +2/3 will increase the recycle time. I will consider a 2600 or 2700 mAH battery if it will make a difference. Very much appreciated.
 
Thanks guys for the helpful information and links. I normally shoot
events which require constant movement. Based on what I read above, I
guess it is better to stick with ETTL and leave the FEC at +2/3.
I
was concerned that setting the FEC to +2/3 will increase the recycle
time.
It will increase recycle time no more than if the unit had been correctly exposing without FEC. The flash unit capacitors can only do full power at most, they cannot do full +2/3.
I will consider a 2600 or 2700 mAH battery if it will make a
difference.
Any increase in battery storage power will help.

I find alkali batteries recycle faster initially. So I use alkali batteries and change them out when they start to slow down. I pocket the used batteries and use them for times when rapid recycling isn’t demanded or when I am in shooting situations where I know less then full power will be needed (close up, fill, etc)

If you are using rechargeables, then you should also consider an external battery pack. It will decrease recycle times and increase the number of shots between changes.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/498738-REG/Canon_1947B001_Compact_Battery_Pack_CP_E4.html#features

Brian A.
 
I have Canon 5D with 580ex II flash.
Lastly, how can I minimize the recycle times? I have Sanyo Eneloope
2000mAh batteries. Thanks
If you really want to reduce recycle times (as well as extend the number of pops you can get before replacing batteries), you need to use an external high-voltage battery unit with the 580. I use Quantum Turbos, for example. (And set the CF on the 580 to only use the external battery unit to recycle so that the 4 AA batteries you've installed are only used for the control electronics, which will dramatically increase the lifetime on your AA batteries.)

External high voltage packs are not cheap, but they make a massive difference in recycle times. With a Quantum Turbo, I can do a full power dump and it recycles in just under a second. For most pops (which are typically no-where near full power), recycle times are darn near instant. I have machine-gun'd my 1D at 8FPS in a nightclub and the flash hits every single exposure in the burst. And what's more, unlike using AAs, recycle times with an external pack are pretty much consistent until the pack runs out -- they don't get progressively longer with each shot you take. I've never had my Quantum Turbos run out during an event, either (e.g., 8 hours in a nightclub with well over 1000 pops).

Packs like the Quantum Turbos are rechargeable batteries, so while they are expensive up front, you save money on not having to constantly replace them. There are other external packs that do use disposable batteries -- one of the Canon units gangs together 8 C (or is it D?) cells, for example. Personally, I would stick to external packs that are of the rechargeable type. Quantum Turbos are well respected, but there are a couple other brands as well.

In addition to their cost, the other drawback with external packs is their weight. They are bricks. Most have some way to 'wear' the packs, though -- I clip the Quantum Turbo to my belt, for example. Others have a lanyard strap.

--
skype:cwichura
 
problem.

If you want faster recycling you can increase the ISO (I shoot usually at ISO400).
Yehuda
Thanks guys for the helpful information and links. I normally shoot
events which require constant movement. Based on what I read above, I
guess it is better to stick with ETTL and leave the FEC at +2/3. I
was concerned that setting the FEC to +2/3 will increase the recycle
time. I will consider a 2600 or 2700 mAH battery if it will make a
difference. Very much appreciated.
 
Unless you are in a studio, with statically mounted speedlights, you really don't want to use manual mode. Some of old folks remember the days when the flashes had no auto exposure. Basically you had to know (or determine) the guide number for the film you were using. Then you measured (or estimated) the distance between the subject and the flash and divided that number into the guide number. The result was the f-stop.
--
Jim
http://www.pbase.com/jcassatt
 

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