Reading mode: Light Dark

New 50D owner needs help with DPP!

Go to last post
I

idhawk

Member
Messages
32
Reaction score
0
Location
US
OK, so I finally got to take some pictures with my new camera tonight and I truly was lost with all the settings. I put the camera in sraw mode (at least I think I did), and took some pics. The pics show up when reviewing them in the camera.

I downloaded them into iPhoto like I usually do with all my photos and they showed up completely black. I thought that maybe it had something to do with the fact that they are raw photos, but I definitely knew something wasn't right.

I open up DPP and it does not recognized any photos in iPhoto. Question #1. Do I need store my raw photos elsewhere? Any iPhoto users out there have this problem?

So I proceed to download the photos to my desktop, where I can open them with DPP. Sure enough, DPP finds them but like with my iPhoto, they are completely black. The photo info shows there is data, but there is no image. I put the disk back in the camera and I can view the photos. Question #2. Does anyone have any idea what the heck I did wrong?

Man, it sure is going to take some getting used to the different controls on this camera. I can already tell the camera is a huge step up from my Pentax K10D, but the Pentax controls were much more intuitive.
 
Try regular RAW files and see what happens... Works fine for me, but I haven't tried sRAW files. May be a compatibility issue. Have you updated DPP from Canon's site? Which version of iPhoto do you use?
 
I use iPhoto 08. I just downloaded the compatibility fix, but it didn't help. I can see them in Canon Image Viewer, but I don't want to use that program. It is not as nice nor user friendly as iPhoto.

Anyone else using sRaw and iPhoto? Any help would be appreciated.
 
Not sure what you mean by "compatability fix". I installed Apple's raw plug-in for iPhoto '08 and it works with Raw. Why don't you try that and see what happens.
 
That's the one I installed. In the description it said it was a compatibility fix. It reads the RAW, just not the sRAW.
 
According to the Apple discussion forum on Apple, sRAW is not supported. I am sure it will be in time. I'll try an sRAW on my 40D and iPhoto for S&G.
 
Wow, my Mac hates them sRAW (.CR2) files from the 40D. Don't even show up as valid files in the OS. Guess I'll never use them for several reasons now....
 
Why not copy your sRAW images directly to your HD?? That makes processing go more quickly, and you may find the compatibility issue disappears. I don't know anything about all the Apple programs of photo sharing applications, but it could be that they are the problem.

Last but not least, what's wrong with using ACR instead of DPP? If you're using sRAW instead of full-res RAW, you are certainly not going to see any difference, no matter how you display them or print them. In fact, I really doubt the claims that DPP shows more detail than ACR. I just think that the sharpening algorithms in DPP sharpen things much more than ACR does - and that can be a problem at higher ISOs, because DPP sharpens the noise to a really obnoxious degree.

Bill
 
bill hansen said:
Why not copy your sRAW images directly to your HD?? That makes
processing go more quickly, and you may find the compatibility issue
disappears. I don't know anything about all the Apple programs of
photo sharing applications, but it could be that they are the problem.

Last but not least, what's wrong with using ACR instead of DPP? If
you're using sRAW instead of full-res RAW, you are certainly not
going to see any difference, no matter how you display them or print
them. In fact, I really doubt the claims that DPP shows more detail
than ACR. I just think that the sharpening algorithms in DPP sharpen
things much more than ACR does - and that can be a problem at higher
ISOs, because DPP sharpens the noise to a really obnoxious degree.

Bill
Click to expand...
Bill,

At the risk of sounding like an idiot, "what is ACR?" I am new to this whole thing and I am not familiar with that program.

Dan
 
If the sRAW wont open in your iphoto why not use DPP? ACR is another program for processing.. I download all my files to DPP then convert and use photostudio to do anything else I want. everybody is different but I like to use Canons software to first get my files then go from there.
 
idhawk said:
At the risk of sounding like an idiot, "what is ACR?" I am new to
this whole thing and I am not familiar with that program.

Dan
Click to expand...
ACR is Adobe Camera Raw, the Raw (and now Jpeg & Tiff) processor that comes along with Photoshop CS.

In the future, I recommend you just shoot in full RAW. The sRAW saves some file size, but it seems a contradiction to shoot in RAW, presumably for the benefits realized, but yet shoot in small size which I would guess would negate the RAW benefits. Memory is very cheap now. Just my opinion.

--
Alastair
http://www.pbase.com/alastair
'Wish I didn't know now what I didn't know then.'
...Bob Seger
 
I did copy to my HD, but once there, the Mac OS X doesn't see the .CR2 files as image files, in the native OS. It sees the RAW files and displays them just fine.

Personally, I only use the full RAW, I have plenty of CF cards, and 1.5 TB in HD space on the Mac (2 x 750GB Drives), not including the external drive.
 
Just be aware that if you shoot full RAW, you will need a powerful computer, or you may experience some slowing when you convert or open files. Another person posted about this earlier today, and my own computer (3.2 GHz processor, 4 MB of RAM) is pretty slow in converting and opening the larger files from full-res 50D RAW. This was not true with the smaller RAW files from my 20D.

Bill
 
I guess it depends on why you take pictures.

If it's just to go thru the exercise of composing a shot and pushing the shutter, then gleefully inspecting the low rez results on a sub par computer then yes, smaller than optimal should do just fine. But it seems to me, if you're using a $1200+ camera with at least a $400 lens on it, you should use at least a computer that can keep up. I use an HP from COSTCO that cost around $800.
I don't notice that I'm ever really waiting on it.
Alastair
bill hansen said:
Just be aware that if you shoot full RAW, you will need a powerful
computer, or you may experience some slowing when you convert or open
files. Another person posted about this earlier today, and my own
computer (3.2 GHz processor, 4 MB of RAM) is pretty slow in
converting and opening the larger files from full-res 50D RAW. This
was not true with the smaller RAW files from my 20D.

Bill
Click to expand...
--
Alastair
http://www.pbase.com/alastair
'Wish I didn't know now what I didn't know then.'
...Bob Seger
 
IPhoto doesn't read small Raw. Large Raw is much better anyway.

I use DPP mostly to fine tune white balance and correct for distortion. The nicest thing is that once I make these basic changes, I hit the convert and save command and the program saves the original raw file and adds a new jpeg file with my changes. I keep the raw file as my "negative" and copy the jpeg file to IPhoto where they are quite convenient. Then I erase the jpeg file converted by DPP since its now in IPhoto. This all works very well for me. I can play with the jpeg files in IPhoto where I can always "revert to original". Moreover I can always start over from scratch with original RAW file that's saved.
 
Well, that post could prompt a lot of replies. I almost always (99.9% of the time) shoot full RAW, for the reasons you note. I have seen several reports on this forum, from people who say they have pretty powerful computers, that they do experience slow opening and conversion with the 50D files. Finally, output from files smaller than 15 mpx can be breathtakingly beautiful. A couple of days ago I had the pleasure of seeing a number of mounted photos taken with the older A640 camera, 8 mpx. These had been printed at sizes in the neighborhood of 20X30 or slightly larger. I had not believed this would be possible, but they were tack sharp and essentially free of grain or noise.

So - although I do shoot full RAW, I think it's a mistake to conclude that smaller files necessarily sacrifice too much detail. I'd have no hesitation to shoot JPEGs or sRAWs in many circumstances.

Bill
 
Forgive me if you already know the following. I was just curious as to why you would shoot in any type of RAW format then convert to Jpeg. Jpeg is a lossy format. Working on it as a Jpeg will cause it to progressively lose quality as you make changes and save it. Anytime I attended workshops or read about workflow it suggests to convert your files to TIFF, work on them and then convert to JPeg. TIFF is a lossless format. You can make all the changes you without degrading image quality. I don't anything about iphoto so I am just curious about this. I also don't your interest level as well. You can pick up the inexpensive PS Elements and do a lot of cool stuff in there with your TIFF file. DPP and RAW is great to change white balance, etc and if are happy working with Jpegs after there is nothing wrong with it. FYI. TIFF files are pretty big although recommended to keep the final version you don't have to. Think it as a completed negative that you could back to in month and tweak it without loosing quality.

--
I have made my decision. Don't confuse me with the facts.
 
The way Canon recommends is using the provided software.
In this alternative, the steps are the following:

a) Connect your camera with the provided USB cable to your computer. If you have installed the Canon provided software, and the camera is on, the computer automatically will start the EOS Utility.

b) In the EOS Utility Select the option "Lets you select and download images". Select the directory where you will place your images. The program automatically will create folders according to the date the images were shot. After finishing this, the computer automatically will start the Zoombrowser program, where you should be able to see (and edit) your images. From this program you can jump to any post processing software (like Photoshop) or use the provided DPP, but you can also stay in Zoombrowser and do the processing right there (the program will create a Tiff version of your image which can be processed right there). After this Zoombrowser processing you can save your edited image to a JPEG format.

Miguel Rios
idhawk said:
OK, so I finally got to take some pictures with my new camera tonight
and I truly was lost with all the settings. I put the camera in
sraw mode (at least I think I did), and took some pics. The pics
show up when reviewing them in the camera.

I downloaded them into iPhoto like I usually do with all my photos
and they showed up completely black. I thought that maybe it had
something to do with the fact that they are raw photos, but I
definitely knew something wasn't right.

I open up DPP and it does not recognized any photos in iPhoto.
Question #1. Do I need store my raw photos elsewhere? Any iPhoto
users out there have this problem?

So I proceed to download the photos to my desktop, where I can open
them with DPP. Sure enough, DPP finds them but like with my iPhoto,
they are completely black. The photo info shows there is data, but
there is no image. I put the disk back in the camera and I can view
the photos. Question #2. Does anyone have any idea what the heck I
did wrong?

Man, it sure is going to take some getting used to the different
controls on this camera. I can already tell the camera is a huge
step up from my Pentax K10D, but the Pentax controls were much more
intuitive.
Click to expand...
 
bill hansen said:
Just be aware that if you shoot full RAW, you will need a powerful
computer, or you may experience some slowing when you convert or open
files. Another person posted about this earlier today, and my own
computer (3.2 GHz processor, 4 MB of RAM) is pretty slow in
converting and opening the larger files from full-res 50D RAW. This
was not true with the smaller RAW files from my 20D.
Click to expand...
This had nothing to do with the computer but everything with how DPP seems to read, open and convert raw ...

I haven't seen any speed difference on a 3Ghz PC one with 512 Mb one with 2Gig and one with 3 Gig of memory .. they're all equally slow on 40D raw files .. if you want to see some speed increase you'll need a faster CPU :-D

--
if needed, email me at : [email protected]
Horum Omnium Fortissimi Sunt Belgae !
(CanFT-QL)Can40DCan400DS17-70S105S18-200OSSonH5CanA520-M3358-DH1758
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Keyboard shortcuts

f
Forum
m
My threads
Mobile site
About
Editorial content
Cameras & Lenses
Community
All content, design, and layout are Copyright © 1998–2025 Digital Photography Review All Rights Reserved.
Reproduction in whole or part in any form or medium without specific written permission is prohibited.
When you use DPReview links to buy products, the site may earn a commission.
©GPS Media - Guides, Products, Services.
Back
Top