Portrait using S2 Pro + Tamron SP 90 posted

WK Chick

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Finally convinced one of my colleague as my portrait photo model. The girl shows a bit timid and nervous. Just took less than 10 minutes during noon recess to took 5 pictures, so don't expect too much. You can't compare it with a studio shot. I just want to show what you can get from a digital camera and lens on a sunny day, no flash, no reflective sheet.

I printed the picture on Super A3 (13" x 19") paper using Epson Stylus Photo 1270 (the biggest paper size I got access) and was impressed by the performance of the S2 Pro + Tamron SP 90 combination.

Shuuuh! Don't tell the others. I didn't ask for the girl's permission to post her photo.

For those who really interested, here is the link:

http://www.pbase.com/wkchick/s2_pro

The picture (DSCF0107.jpg) was taken with highest resolution, JPEG Fine compression, color, tone and shapness all set to standard (default).
 
Is there moire visible in your A3 print? Is it visible on your monitor of the original image? Was this introduced by pbase's compression of the image?

Thank you for posting. Odd but the image is almost too sharp for a portrait...where as on the Nikon SLR discussion group everyone keeps talking about how soft D100 images are then others argue you can post process them yada yada.
Finally convinced one of my colleague as my portrait photo model.
The girl shows a bit timid and nervous. Just took less than 10
minutes during noon recess to took 5 pictures, so don't expect too
much. You can't compare it with a studio shot. I just want to show
what you can get from a digital camera and lens on a sunny day, no
flash, no reflective sheet.

I printed the picture on Super A3 (13" x 19") paper using Epson
Stylus Photo 1270 (the biggest paper size I got access) and was
impressed by the performance of the S2 Pro + Tamron SP 90
combination.

Shuuuh! Don't tell the others. I didn't ask for the girl's
permission to post her photo.

For those who really interested, here is the link:

http://www.pbase.com/wkchick/s2_pro

The picture (DSCF0107.jpg) was taken with highest resolution, JPEG
Fine compression, color, tone and shapness all set to standard
(default).
 
Is there moire visible in your A3 print? Is it visible on your
monitor of the original image? Was this introduced by pbase's
compression of the image?

Thank you for posting. Odd but the image is almost too sharp for a
portrait...where as on the Nikon SLR discussion group everyone
keeps talking about how soft D100 images are then others argue you
can post process them yada yada.
Moire is visible both on monitor and (Super) A3 print. pbase didn't compress it so far (no thumbnail generated). You can check the file size. It should be over 4.2MB.

As I said before, it is not a good example of portrait photo. I am only an amateur and the girl is not a professional or semi-professional model either. I just want to show how the S2 Pro actually performs.

WK
 
The Tamron SP 90 used is a macro lens and is a VERY sharp lens. An excellent lens, BTW.

*******************
Is there moire visible in your A3 print? Is it visible on your
monitor of the original image? Was this introduced by pbase's
compression of the image?

Thank you for posting. Odd but the image is almost too sharp for a
portrait...where as on the Nikon SLR discussion group everyone
keeps talking about how soft D100 images are then others argue you
can post process them yada yada.
 
If such a thing were possible, it almost seems like the S2 has too much resolution and sharpness.

Anthony
Finally convinced one of my colleague as my portrait photo model.
The girl shows a bit timid and nervous. Just took less than 10
minutes during noon recess to took 5 pictures, so don't expect too
much. You can't compare it with a studio shot. I just want to show
what you can get from a digital camera and lens on a sunny day, no
flash, no reflective sheet.

I printed the picture on Super A3 (13" x 19") paper using Epson
Stylus Photo 1270 (the biggest paper size I got access) and was
impressed by the performance of the S2 Pro + Tamron SP 90
combination.

Shuuuh! Don't tell the others. I didn't ask for the girl's
permission to post her photo.

For those who really interested, here is the link:

http://www.pbase.com/wkchick/s2_pro

The picture (DSCF0107.jpg) was taken with highest resolution, JPEG
Fine compression, color, tone and shapness all set to standard
(default).
 
For those who really interested, here is the link:

http://www.pbase.com/wkchick/s2_pro

The picture (DSCF0107.jpg) was taken with highest resolution, JPEG
Fine compression, color, tone and shapness all set to standard
(default).
Can You please try the same type of photo again, but, this time
try ORG,ORG,OFF. I like this setting on my S1. One can do the
sharp thing with their computer.

Ben 8)
 
The sharpness is a real problem with any portrait. The S2 shows clearly that detail is not the problem but sharpness can be too much. For years, people have been shooting on Hasselbladt and other 120 cameras with a soft focus lens firmly attached to their $ 4000.00 lens. That is a real waste but very essential for most portraiture. The large format gave very fine grain but too much sharpness. The soft filter reduced the sharpness but did not affect the grain of course. Most of us had a filter that would give us an image that was soft but with a sharp core. Now that digital is getting quite good with fine deatailed images, we again are going to try to get rid of the skin pores and again we are looking for some help somewhere. This time, the old diffuser could again be used but there is a cleaner and more flexible way to do it.

There are two tools on Photoshop that can get similar results. The first is to sharpen an unsharpened image.
Set your image to 100%

Go to Filter/Sharpen/Unsharp Mask and use settings like 400/0.5/4 on images that are shot with the largest S2 size. Use 200/0.5/4 on the S1 largest images. The first number is the amount of sharpening. The second is the radius that it is considering for detection of contrasty edges. The third number is how much difference there needs to be between light and dark pixels for the sharpening to work. The last number is a variable that keeps skin with relative little differences in tone (less than 4 level) unaffected by the sharpening. Anything over this threshhold will be sharpened. That is mainly hair, eyelashes, jewelery, lip outlines pupils etc. etc. The preview button or the hand on the preview window can be used to see the effect before committing.

The second tool is to get rid of skin pores (caused by too much sharpening) quickly.
Open the too sharp image and go to Filter/Blur/Smart Blur.
Use settings like 0.5/10 to 12/low/normal.

This filter blurs what has less levels difference than 10 to 12 (try both), mainly soft transitional areas like skin and solid tones in clothing. The threshold prevents the sharper detail from blurring like eyes, eyelashes, hair etc. etc.

As you can see, a lot better than a softfocus filter although, some softfocus filters will still be used because we know what we get. Another to remember, save backup files and experiment by printing and comparing.
Rinus

If you want to see what can be done, go here and download the two images with the reclining girls. They have great eye detail to test my methods. Both are the RAW size output from the S2 and both are shot without sharpening.
http://home.fujifilm.com/products/digital/digitalcamera/fxs2pro/sample.html
 
Thanks for posting the portrait. I played with the levels and saturation plus cleaned up the skin a bit. I have posted it temporarily on my Pbase site.You can see the result at http://www.pbase.com/image/2929892 . I can take it down after if you want. Let me know what you think.Keep those photos coming. Much appreciated.
Finally convinced one of my colleague as my portrait photo model.
The girl shows a bit timid and nervous. Just took less than 10
minutes during noon recess to took 5 pictures, so don't expect too
much. You can't compare it with a studio shot. I just want to show
what you can get from a digital camera and lens on a sunny day, no
flash, no reflective sheet.

I printed the picture on Super A3 (13" x 19") paper using Epson
Stylus Photo 1270 (the biggest paper size I got access) and was
impressed by the performance of the S2 Pro + Tamron SP 90
combination.

Shuuuh! Don't tell the others. I didn't ask for the girl's
permission to post her photo.

For those who really interested, here is the link:

http://www.pbase.com/wkchick/s2_pro

The picture (DSCF0107.jpg) was taken with highest resolution, JPEG
Fine compression, color, tone and shapness all set to standard
(default).
 
For those who really interested, here is the link:

http://www.pbase.com/wkchick/s2_pro

The picture (DSCF0107.jpg) was taken with highest resolution, JPEG
Fine compression, color, tone and shapness all set to standard
(default).
Can You please try the same type of photo again, but, this time
try ORG,ORG,OFF. I like this setting on my S1. One can do the
sharp thing with their computer.

Ben 8)
As first I do not understand what is meant by ORG, ORG, OFF. After playing a bit with the buttons under the rear LCD then I know. Before that I thought the camera do nothing to the image while I set the sharpness setting to standard.

Hope I can convinced the girl again or find another.

WK
 
The sharpness is a real problem with any portrait. The S2 shows
clearly that detail is not the problem but sharpness can be too
much. For years, people have been shooting on Hasselbladt and other
120 cameras with a soft focus lens firmly attached to their $
4000.00 lens. That is a real waste but very essential for most
portraiture. The large format gave very fine grain but too much
sharpness. The soft filter reduced the sharpness but did not affect
the grain of course. Most of us had a filter that would give us an
image that was soft but with a sharp core. Now that digital is
getting quite good with fine deatailed images, we again are going
to try to get rid of the skin pores and again we are looking for
some help somewhere. This time, the old diffuser could again be
used but there is a cleaner and more flexible way to do it.
There are two tools on Photoshop that can get similar results. The
first is to sharpen an unsharpened image.
Set your image to 100%
Go to Filter/Sharpen/Unsharp Mask and use settings like 400/0.5/4
on images that are shot with the largest S2 size. Use 200/0.5/4 on
the S1 largest images. The first number is the amount of
sharpening. The second is the radius that it is considering for
detection of contrasty edges. The third number is how much
difference there needs to be between light and dark pixels for the
sharpening to work. The last number is a variable that keeps skin
with relative little differences in tone (less than 4 level)
unaffected by the sharpening. Anything over this threshhold will be
sharpened. That is mainly hair, eyelashes, jewelery, lip outlines
pupils etc. etc. The preview button or the hand on the preview
window can be used to see the effect before committing.
The second tool is to get rid of skin pores (caused by too much
sharpening) quickly.
Open the too sharp image and go to Filter/Blur/Smart Blur.
Use settings like 0.5/10 to 12/low/normal.
This filter blurs what has less levels difference than 10 to 12
(try both), mainly soft transitional areas like skin and solid
tones in clothing. The threshold prevents the sharper detail from
blurring like eyes, eyelashes, hair etc. etc.
As you can see, a lot better than a softfocus filter although, some
softfocus filters will still be used because we know what we get.
Another to remember, save backup files and experiment by printing
and comparing.
Rinus
If you want to see what can be done, go here and download the two
images with the reclining girls. They have great eye detail to test
my methods. Both are the RAW size output from the S2 and both are
shot without sharpening.
http://home.fujifilm.com/products/digital/digitalcamera/fxs2pro/sample.html
Thanks very much. I'm not that experience with the Photoshop and I think a learn a lot of Photoshop technique from you.

As you can see the girl didn't make up at all and no special filter (eg. Softener) was added. I just want to tell how sharp it could be (on some area you can even see the texture of her blouse) and moire comes out easily on the S2 Pro.

WK
 
How would you deal with the moire problem. Almost every S2 portrait I've seen shows hair moire and that may be a determining factor in my selection of a new SLR,
Thanks
The sharpness is a real problem with any portrait. The S2 shows
clearly that detail is not the problem but sharpness can be too
much. For years, people have been shooting on Hasselbladt and other
120 cameras with a soft focus lens firmly attached to their $
4000.00 lens. That is a real waste but very essential for most
portraiture. The large format gave very fine grain but too much
sharpness. The soft filter reduced the sharpness but did not affect
the grain of course. Most of us had a filter that would give us an
image that was soft but with a sharp core. Now that digital is
getting quite good with fine deatailed images, we again are going
to try to get rid of the skin pores and again we are looking for
some help somewhere. This time, the old diffuser could again be
used but there is a cleaner and more flexible way to do it.
There are two tools on Photoshop that can get similar results. The
first is to sharpen an unsharpened image.
Set your image to 100%
Go to Filter/Sharpen/Unsharp Mask and use settings like 400/0.5/4
on images that are shot with the largest S2 size. Use 200/0.5/4 on
the S1 largest images. The first number is the amount of
sharpening. The second is the radius that it is considering for
detection of contrasty edges. The third number is how much
difference there needs to be between light and dark pixels for the
sharpening to work. The last number is a variable that keeps skin
with relative little differences in tone (less than 4 level)
unaffected by the sharpening. Anything over this threshhold will be
sharpened. That is mainly hair, eyelashes, jewelery, lip outlines
pupils etc. etc. The preview button or the hand on the preview
window can be used to see the effect before committing.
The second tool is to get rid of skin pores (caused by too much
sharpening) quickly.
Open the too sharp image and go to Filter/Blur/Smart Blur.
Use settings like 0.5/10 to 12/low/normal.
This filter blurs what has less levels difference than 10 to 12
(try both), mainly soft transitional areas like skin and solid
tones in clothing. The threshold prevents the sharper detail from
blurring like eyes, eyelashes, hair etc. etc.
As you can see, a lot better than a softfocus filter although, some
softfocus filters will still be used because we know what we get.
Another to remember, save backup files and experiment by printing
and comparing.
Rinus
If you want to see what can be done, go here and download the two
images with the reclining girls. They have great eye detail to test
my methods. Both are the RAW size output from the S2 and both are
shot without sharpening.
http://home.fujifilm.com/products/digital/digitalcamera/fxs2pro/sample.html
 
for the S2, like the S1, std does sharpening in camera... for the S2 sharpeninng can be set to OFF using the function button on the rear ...this is covered in the manual on page 75
 
Search for above keywords and you will find a thread
addressing that using the QM Pro plugin which can
be included in a PS action

regards
gmd
 
I was lurking in the Nikon SLR forum, and discovered that there's quite a vitrolic series of threads regarding the sharpness of the D100. Apparently, some of the new D100 owners do not find the sharpness of the camera to be all they wanted. Other D100 owners and Nikon fans are then verbally pummeling those owners with taunts telling them to go back to non-SLR point and shoots, and adding that sharpness is supposed to be done in post-processing.

By comparison, it appears to me that here with the S2, the problem is almost too much resolution and sharpness! All in all, I'd rather have better images "out of the camera" and minimize my time in front of Photoshop screen.

Rinus, thanks for your tip below. I tried it out tonight on some S1pro images and it took out some of those pores which can detract from a photo. This will be a real boon for me!

Anthony
The sharpness is a real problem with any portrait. The S2 shows
clearly that detail is not the problem but sharpness can be too
much. For years, people have been shooting on Hasselbladt and other
120 cameras with a soft focus lens firmly attached to their $
4000.00 lens. That is a real waste but very essential for most
portraiture. The large format gave very fine grain but too much
sharpness. The soft filter reduced the sharpness but did not affect
the grain of course. Most of us had a filter that would give us an
image that was soft but with a sharp core. Now that digital is
getting quite good with fine deatailed images, we again are going
to try to get rid of the skin pores and again we are looking for
some help somewhere. This time, the old diffuser could again be
used but there is a cleaner and more flexible way to do it.
There are two tools on Photoshop that can get similar results. The
first is to sharpen an unsharpened image.
Set your image to 100%
Go to Filter/Sharpen/Unsharp Mask and use settings like 400/0.5/4
on images that are shot with the largest S2 size. Use 200/0.5/4 on
the S1 largest images. The first number is the amount of
sharpening. The second is the radius that it is considering for
detection of contrasty edges. The third number is how much
difference there needs to be between light and dark pixels for the
sharpening to work. The last number is a variable that keeps skin
with relative little differences in tone (less than 4 level)
unaffected by the sharpening. Anything over this threshhold will be
sharpened. That is mainly hair, eyelashes, jewelery, lip outlines
pupils etc. etc. The preview button or the hand on the preview
window can be used to see the effect before committing.
The second tool is to get rid of skin pores (caused by too much
sharpening) quickly.
Open the too sharp image and go to Filter/Blur/Smart Blur.
Use settings like 0.5/10 to 12/low/normal.
This filter blurs what has less levels difference than 10 to 12
(try both), mainly soft transitional areas like skin and solid
tones in clothing. The threshold prevents the sharper detail from
blurring like eyes, eyelashes, hair etc. etc.
As you can see, a lot better than a softfocus filter although, some
softfocus filters will still be used because we know what we get.
Another to remember, save backup files and experiment by printing
and comparing.
Rinus
If you want to see what can be done, go here and download the two
images with the reclining girls. They have great eye detail to test
my methods. Both are the RAW size output from the S2 and both are
shot without sharpening.
http://home.fujifilm.com/products/digital/digitalcamera/fxs2pro/sample.html
 
There are some threads on this, see next post as well as this one http://www.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1020&message=2981550
The following comes from the Adobe Studio web site.

To get rid of color fringing due to chromatic aberrations or colored Moiré do the following.

Go to the layers palette and right click on it. then left click on duplicate layer.

In the same palette, click on the duplicate layer to make it active (if it is not already)
Just above that, set the layer attributes to "color"
Now go to Filter/Blur/Gaussian blur and set the slider to about 6 pixels.
You can see the moiré disappear by changing the slider back and forth.

Click OK and click on the little eye in the layers palette (the duplicate layer) to see it before and after. Now (with the layer clicked on) flatten the image.

Remember that all detail in the picture is affected so after I flattened the image, I quickly run across the areas that should not have been done with the history brush to get my details and its color back to where I started from.

With large areas, it is easier sometimes to make a selection first with the lasso tool and the do a Layer/New/layer via copy to get your correction layer. After that, treat as above.

As you can see, no plug in required (costs money most of the time) and it is fast for individual shots. For production work, I recorded an action with a 4 pixel, 6 pixel and a 8 pixel radius which I can try on the fly without worry and then use in a batch command to do an entire group if need be.
Good luck.
Rinus
 
The "Org" settings are settings for keeping the image without any processing.

The "Norm" settings add Saturation. Contrast and Sharpening and in that order on the camera. the settings are pretty good for most images but to test the camera and show what it is capable of, the "Org settings are best.
Rinus
 

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