AJP
Forum Enthusiast
Could someone Please advise the advantages of an AF "D" lens over a non D AF lens.
Thanks
AJ
Thanks
AJ
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Nikon "D" Lenses
- Thread starter AJP
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Frank Trommelen
Member
A D-type lens takes full advantage of the 3D-Matrix and matrix-TTL-flash metering
of the later Nikon SLR's with matrixmetering, whereas non-D lenses can
only use the average meteringsystem. 3D-matrix measures distance,RGB-
values and contrast and will give superb exposures in difficult situations as
for instance backlight or dark background outdoor and indoor with matrix-flash.
Hope this helps,
Frank.
of the later Nikon SLR's with matrixmetering, whereas non-D lenses can
only use the average meteringsystem. 3D-matrix measures distance,RGB-
values and contrast and will give superb exposures in difficult situations as
for instance backlight or dark background outdoor and indoor with matrix-flash.
Hope this helps,
Frank.
AJP
Forum Enthusiast
Thanks for the quick response Frank
It is a help. (I am trying to decide whether to buy a 2nd hand non D lens over a much more expensive new D lens.
I must admit with the D1x I find the flash on camera exposures not too reliable even with the 17-35 2.8 and the SB-80 DX.
Cheers
AJ
It is a help. (I am trying to decide whether to buy a 2nd hand non D lens over a much more expensive new D lens.
I must admit with the D1x I find the flash on camera exposures not too reliable even with the 17-35 2.8 and the SB-80 DX.
Cheers
AJ
Frank Trommelen
Member
Hi AJP,
I thought that the D1x had a better flashexposure with the 17-35 (and other
D-or S-type lenses). I myself use the 'old' D1 and from the start the flash-TTL
funktion was a disaster. Never a balanced exposure, merely overexposure
especially when the flashhead was set for indirect flash. So from that
moment on I decided to use my SB-28dx only on 'A'-mode and with a slight
correction sometimes from -0.3 or -0.7 this always gives me perfect exposures ! You should try this, although I agree the matrix-TTL should work
for this kind of money. On the other hand you will learn to use and understand
the effect of flash more than using it automatically. Works for me !
But the D-lenses are definately worth the money, because they give excellent
results with the matrix as I earlier said because they can calculate (or the camera) the right exposure given for the distance of your subject ,color-values and contrast-values included. So in my opinion, go for the D's !
a greeting from Holland,
Frank.
I thought that the D1x had a better flashexposure with the 17-35 (and other
D-or S-type lenses). I myself use the 'old' D1 and from the start the flash-TTL
funktion was a disaster. Never a balanced exposure, merely overexposure
especially when the flashhead was set for indirect flash. So from that
moment on I decided to use my SB-28dx only on 'A'-mode and with a slight
correction sometimes from -0.3 or -0.7 this always gives me perfect exposures ! You should try this, although I agree the matrix-TTL should work
for this kind of money. On the other hand you will learn to use and understand
the effect of flash more than using it automatically. Works for me !
But the D-lenses are definately worth the money, because they give excellent
results with the matrix as I earlier said because they can calculate (or the camera) the right exposure given for the distance of your subject ,color-values and contrast-values included. So in my opinion, go for the D's !
a greeting from Holland,
Frank.
Frank Trommelen
Member
Hi AJP,
I thought that the D1X had a better flashexposure with the 17-35 (and other D-or S-type lenses). I myself use the 'old' D1 and from the start flash-TTL
was a disaster. Never a balanced exposure, merely overexposion especially
when the flashhead was set for indirect flash. So from that moment on I decided to use my SB-28DX only on 'A'-mode and with slight corrections sometimes (-0.3 or 0.7) this always gives me perfect results. You should try this, although I agree the matrix-TTL should work for this kind of money. On the other hand you will learn to use and understand the effect of flash more than using it automatically. Works for me !
But the D-lenses are definately worth every penny, because they give excellent results with the matrix as I earlier said because they are able to make calculations with the camera for the right exposure given for the distanceof your subject, color- and contrastvalues included. So in my opinion,
go for the D's !
a greeting from Holland,
Frank.
I thought that the D1X had a better flashexposure with the 17-35 (and other D-or S-type lenses). I myself use the 'old' D1 and from the start flash-TTL
was a disaster. Never a balanced exposure, merely overexposion especially
when the flashhead was set for indirect flash. So from that moment on I decided to use my SB-28DX only on 'A'-mode and with slight corrections sometimes (-0.3 or 0.7) this always gives me perfect results. You should try this, although I agree the matrix-TTL should work for this kind of money. On the other hand you will learn to use and understand the effect of flash more than using it automatically. Works for me !
But the D-lenses are definately worth every penny, because they give excellent results with the matrix as I earlier said because they are able to make calculations with the camera for the right exposure given for the distanceof your subject, color- and contrastvalues included. So in my opinion,
go for the D's !
a greeting from Holland,
Frank.
AJP
Forum Enthusiast
I do miss the ease and accuracy of using my old sb-24, & 26 on my "Old" F4 and F5. the TTl exposure was SO accurate.
I will try the A-mode as you suggest, and will also revisit Thoms 4 step guide. However I need control over shutter speeds so the Aperture priority may be a problem.
Does using the flash in A mode use the "D" features?
Thanks again,
Andrew
I will try the A-mode as you suggest, and will also revisit Thoms 4 step guide. However I need control over shutter speeds so the Aperture priority may be a problem.
Does using the flash in A mode use the "D" features?
Thanks again,
Andrew
Frank Trommelen
Member
No, using the A-mode will not use the matrix-TTL feature for flash,
but your camera will meter your available light in matrix when using the A-mode for fill-flash
(provided your camera is set for matrix)
Frank.
but your camera will meter your available light in matrix when using the A-mode for fill-flash
(provided your camera is set for matrix)
Frank.
Dan Desjardins
Senior Member
With D-type lenses the camera is capable of dynamically shifting the metering weight to the area that is in focus.
For example:
If a subject is heavily back-lit and the camera knows you have focussed on the subject - it can dynamically shift the metering weight (matrix metering) to the subject area.
If flash is used - again - the TTL metering (in matrix mode) can dynamically shift the metering to prefer the subject that is in focus - rather than average the scene and probably overexpose the subject.
All of this works only if the camera iteself is set to Matrix mode.
Do I have this correct?
Des
For example:
If a subject is heavily back-lit and the camera knows you have focussed on the subject - it can dynamically shift the metering weight (matrix metering) to the subject area.
If flash is used - again - the TTL metering (in matrix mode) can dynamically shift the metering to prefer the subject that is in focus - rather than average the scene and probably overexpose the subject.
All of this works only if the camera iteself is set to Matrix mode.
Do I have this correct?
Des
Thom Hogan
Forum Pro
Well, that's a simplification. What the distance information really gives the camera is a "don't flash at a level that would overexpose at this distance." That's not quite the same as shifting the metering weight, which, by the way, is done regardless of whether the distance is known (the camera knows which autofocus sensor is in use).
Yes and no. Again, read the above. But now I'll add another nuance: the FLASH metering is done with five TTL sensors. The first looks at the central area, and the other four look at the outer four quadrants. Note that this meter alignment is NOT the same as camera's main meter matrix or autofocus sensor locations (indeed, the outer autofocus sensors all straddle two quadrants).
Moreover, you need to be careful about mixing comments about ambient exposure and flash exposure. I'm assuming we're talking about balanced fill flash here. The ambient metering should detect the backlit condition. The contrast differences between matrix areas would tell the camera how much the ambient backlighting is and open up the ambient exposure to compensate. The flash exposure would then be done to balance the ambient exposure, not to fill in light where it is missing.
Well, there are a bunch of variables that influence the method the camera uses to determine ambient and flash exposures:
- metering
- flash mode
- scene brightness
- scene contrast
- distance information
- autofocus sensor used
- focal length
- pre-flash measurement info
In a generalized, simplified way, yes.
--
Thom Hogan
author, Nikon Field Guide
author, Nikon Flash Guide
author, Complete Guide to the Nikon D1, D1h, & D1x
http://www.bythom.com
Yes and No.
The whole D idea is very nice and works perfect with flash photography, since 5 sensors are being used, the D information is taken into calculation with the total exposure. So, with a black or a white background your main subject will be exposed very well/the same. But back lit by a setting sun, even the perfect Nikon D system fails: underexposure. So, you can't rely on the system all the time, but in most cases you can. The back light situation can be hard to judge even for a computer, since it has to make a choice between blowing out highlights and underexposure. Talking film, you would have a problem, talking digital, you might be OK.
Kind regards,
Bart
The whole D idea is very nice and works perfect with flash photography, since 5 sensors are being used, the D information is taken into calculation with the total exposure. So, with a black or a white background your main subject will be exposed very well/the same. But back lit by a setting sun, even the perfect Nikon D system fails: underexposure. So, you can't rely on the system all the time, but in most cases you can. The back light situation can be hard to judge even for a computer, since it has to make a choice between blowing out highlights and underexposure. Talking film, you would have a problem, talking digital, you might be OK.
Kind regards,
Bart
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