Reading mode: Light Dark

Recommendations for hot-shoe spirit level

Go to last post
E

Elle Destino

Well-known member
Messages
178
Reaction score
0
Location
US
Can anyone recommend a good spirit level for use in a camera hotshoe? Main aim is panoramics, stitched together in 'PTgui' software.
 
B&H and others have a 2 bubble hot shoe spirit level for about $35.00

I use it all the time for architecture and landscapes.

I guess you also know you have to have both the tripod and head leveled for landscapes, right?

Robert
--
http://www.streamlinestudio.com
 
If you can afford it, I'd recommend forgetting about that bubble level, and getting a panoramic clamp and nodal slide. It's made leveling (period, and more so for panos) a simple task. And with this setup, it matters not if the tripod or column is leveled.

See:
http://reallyrightstuff.com/pano/06.html

Otherwise:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?ci=0&sb=ps&pn=1&sq=desc&InitialSearch=yes&O=jsp%2FRootPage.jsp&A=search&Q=*&bhs=t&shs=hot+shoe+bubble+level&sb=ps&pn=1&sq=desc&InitialSearch=yes&O=jsp%2FRootPage.jsp&A=search&Q=*&bhs=t&Go.x=0&Go.y=0&Go=submit

--
...Bob, NYC

Galleries: http://www.pbase.com/btullis

 
I have the RRS BH-55 and the hot shoe level you referenced from B&H.

I have been thinking about getting the pano clamp and the nodal point slide plate.

The only advantage I see (and it is a big advantage for panos) is the nodal point slider function for the lens.

Otherwise using the $35.00 level does the same thing as the plate/slide combo... right?

The purpose of making the tripod level is so you don't get slope in the pan and the function of the bubble level is to make sure your horizon is straight (or to avoid keystoning.

PLease help me from your experience whay I should buy the clamp/slilde except to assude correct pano rotation around the lens focal center.

Thanks,
Robert
--
http://www.streamlinestudio.com
 
Robert Strom said:
I have the RRS BH-55 and the hot shoe level you referenced from B&H.

I have been thinking about getting the pano clamp and the nodal point
slide plate.

The only advantage I see (and it is a big advantage for panos) is the
nodal point slider function for the lens.

Otherwise using the $35.00 level does the same thing as the
plate/slide combo... right?
Click to expand...
Basically, the panning clamp (to replace what's on your head already) eliminates the need for leveling the tripod or column. Bear with the rambling. . .

Started with the bubble level. Then obtained a leveling tripod. Then got the BH-40 with the bubble level clamp. And I was happy, but didn't do much serious pano work (mainly did two stitch compositions for a square format, or for higher res. captures). So the setup was to get the tripod nearly level, level the column (for the head's panning feature), and then level the clamp on the head, and test by using the head pan with the bubble level on the hot shoe, which invariably showed a slight correction was needed (and those slight corrections are the hardest to obtain - at least, for me). Of course this didn't take care of the nodal issue, but it otherwise was satisfactory. Took about 5 minutes to get it just right.

Comparatively, now I set up the tripod as level as I can (for balance consideration only), forget the column leveling, put the nodal slide on the panning clamp, and in 10-20 seconds I'm ready to shoot. It's the larger level on the nodal slide that makes the leveling easier (easier than getting the smaller clamp bub. level set). And when I want to quickly make a mod to the composition before the light changes (that is, moving a few feet from the original position), I CAN do it quickly for this - again - luxury.

Otherwise, it's just a liberating freedom to set that up and get to concentrate on what's important. And the novelty of it hasn't worn off yet (about 8 months of regular usage). This isn't essential to get the job done - but once experienced I think the same appreciation will be had (if one does more than just an occasional scenic pursuit).

You're probably not interested in the Ultimate rig, but while I'm at it - what I found that gave me was a bit of a relief on desiring better WA lenses. When I want wide while shooting into the sun, the 16-35 mkI isn't suitable for the gross flaring. I could instead revert to the 28-70 (yes, 28), and do a multi row composition to get the same FOV. Sure, I'll get more lenses in the future, but I don't have the compelling need now.

As a side note: I've fallen twice with the camera on the tripod over my shoulder with this rig, and both times the RSS stuff took the brunt of the impact (slick lichen covered rock). I swore both times my 5D was toast, but no. . . I have a few nicks on the RSS slide and panning clamp, but it's still working as new (no deformations).

That's my story, anyway.

--
...Bob, NYC

Galleries: http://www.pbase.com/btullis

 
Maybe I am still missing something. It sounds like you said that they main reason for the panning clamp is that the larger spirit level makes it easier to get the column level.

what did I miss in your explanation?

Robert
--
http://www.streamlinestudio.com
 
When you use the panning feature of the ball head, the tripod column has to be perfectly level first (so the ball head's panning is level). Then you have to get the head clamp perfectly level as well. If either are slightly off, so is your pan.

With a panning clamp, you set your tripod casually, level the clamp, and then let the clamp do the panning. You could have the column at a 45 degree angle, but your panning base is still perfectly level. The ball head's panning feature is rendered redundant.

--
...Bob, NYC

Galleries: http://www.pbase.com/btullis

 
Bob Tullis said:
When you use the panning feature of the ball head, the tripod column
has to be perfectly level first (so the ball head's panning is
level). Then you have to get the head clamp perfectly level as
well. If either are slightly off, so is your pan.

With a panning clamp, you set your tripod casually, level the clamp,
and then let the clamp do the panning. You could have the column at
a 45 degree angle, but your panning base is still perfectly level.
The ball head's panning feature is rendered redundant.

--
...Bob, NYC

Galleries: http://www.pbase.com/btullis

Click to expand...
Bob:

Thanks for taking the time to explain. The panning clamp must be built like the bowl leveling feature of higher end video tripods. The head sits in a bowl instead of a the flat plate that joins the legs. Like this one

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/78773-REG/Sachtler_6186_DA_150EFP_2D_Aluminum_Tripod.html

If this is the case then RRS should do a better job of showing or explaining how the clamp works. The way it is presented in their catalog and tutorials leaves out the technical design reason why it works and why I need to spend the extra monaey.

Based on your description it sounds like a good investment.

Thanks again, Robert
--
http://www.streamlinestudio.com
 
You're making it too complicated. The site's description of the PCL-1 makes it clear:

Quote

Precision Panning Base with integral clamp and bubble level for smooth and level panning. Mount the panning clamp to your head, then simply shift the unit until the bubble level indicates that the clamp is level. In just seconds, you’ve created a level panning plane without the hassle of leveling the tripod.
Endquote

If it needs to be said, once the clamp is leveled you loosen the panning knob, and the clamp now rotates/pans. The only thing we forgot to do was attach the camera to the clamp. ;)

--
...Bob, NYC

Galleries: http://www.pbase.com/btullis

 
If someone can explain to me how a $35 spirit-level from B&H, Adorama, or RRS is worth $30 more than the $5 ones you can get on Ebay I'd sure like to hear it.

I've purchased a couple off of Ebay and they work fine for me. I use it in conjunction with the spirit level in my ballhead's QR clamp.

Just search for "dual axis spirit level" and if you're feeling adventurous you can try for the triple axis ones.
 
Drew Conway said:
If someone can explain to me how a $35 spirit-level from B&H,
Adorama, or RRS is worth $30 more than the $5 ones you can get on
Ebay I'd sure like to hear it.
Click to expand...
They all (well, almost all) are identical, seems they all fall-off the very same manufacturing line in China. And then imagine that the sellers selling them for 5 USD shipped also make a profit... The situation here in Germany is the same except that Ebay offers start at 10 Euro.

Also these spirit levels are useful if you shoot low over the ground, helps you not to tilt the cam too much.
 
OKay, nuff said. I guess I will just have to buy one. I don't do many panos and the one I do are mainly for my architectural interior photography where I need something wider than my 12-24 nikkor or don't want odela with the distortion

thanks for your patience and info.

Robert
--
http://www.streamlinestudio.com
 
Yep, the E-Bay levels look exactly like the B&H levels. They ship from Hong Kong, so if you need one quickly best pay the extra $, but that would be the only reason to blow more dough. When I bought mine 3 years ago these weren't available on EBay (I don't think)

robert
--
http://www.streamlinestudio.com
 
I bought a Jessops bubble level for €10 in a bricks and mortar shop. It wasn't level at all, particularly in one axis. Then I bough a Hama bubble level (€17) which was of noticeably better quality. Putting the two side by side there was indeed a discrepancy.

The Hama version gives much better results although still not 100% accurate in shooting architectural interiors. I have a Manfrotto tripod with bubble level, a Panosaurus panoramic tripod head with large bubble level and now the Hama dual axis level on the hot shoe. None of them agree with each other as they are all located at different parts of the set up.

I trust the hot shoe level the most but I still find I have to rotate photos in small amounts (around 0.1 to 0.3 degrees) and possibly also perspective correction in order to get perfect verticals and horizontals for critical interior work.

Don't be afraid to buy the expensive ones - I had to throw my Jessops one in the bin.
 
The double bubble hotshoe level is a fairly basic bit of kit that does its job. I wouldn't really fuss over where you get it from, as long as its sensibly priced.

The one thing I would recommend is, get two. Its the sort of item that is easily lost when working outdoors. The dawn shoots often require setting up in the dark or muddy light of pre dawn, and dusk shoots invariably leave you packing up and leaving the location in the dark. All great opportunities for the humble bubble level to get knocked off or left behind.

Once you start working with a bubble level, you will wonder how you ever managed to get buy without one.

Simon
 
One of the basics to understand when shooting panos, that NOT the camera should be level but the plane of swiweling . Therefor the best method to avoid much clipping (which is the goal of leveling) is making the column plum .

(Leveling the plane of swiweling is more important when when using a pano bracket in order to avoid parallax errors, but that's another issue.)

--
Gabor

http://www.panopeeper.com/panorama/pano.htm
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Keyboard shortcuts

f
Forum
m
My threads
Mobile site
About
Editorial content
Cameras & Lenses
Community
All content, design, and layout are Copyright © 1998–2025 Digital Photography Review All Rights Reserved.
Reproduction in whole or part in any form or medium without specific written permission is prohibited.
When you use DPReview links to buy products, the site may earn a commission.
©GPS Media - Guides, Products, Services.
Back
Top