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* 06/30/2008 Weekly Landscape/Scenic Show & Tell

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Thank you. I took 6 photos with the 16-35mm all hand held and merged into Photoshop. The original is about 8000px wide. If you visit my Flickr page, you can see one that is 3,600px wide.
Ben_Egbert said:
BrantG said:
Panoramic from West End Overlook:



From the Duquesne Incline





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Brant Gajda Photography
http://www.brantgajda.com/photography/photography.aspx

Flickr Gallery
http://www.flickr.com/photos/brantgajda/
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http://www.pbase.com/roserus/root

Ben
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Brant Gajda Photography
http://www.brantgajda.com/photography/photography.aspx

Flickr Gallery
http://www.flickr.com/photos/brantgajda/
 
Hi there...you accidently posted on my image thread, hence you hijacked my thread but that's OK...I'm sure it was unintensional.

I might as well comment on your image since I'm here. It's a lovely image...I always love these mirror lake views. I would try to adjust the contrst in the sky & the sun-lit mountains to bring in more color (similar to how it's seen in the reflection in the lake.

Omar
 
Thanks Ben. Yes quite correct a very long exposure.

I used a Hoya 9 stop ND filter to lower the light levels. Popped the camera on a tripod and worked out the exposure to be 30 seconds. I also used a Lee 105mm Polariser to pop the colours too.

I only wished I'd cleaned my sensor more carefully.
Ben_Egbert said:
Second my fav. Thats an interesting effect, how did you blur the
clouds? Is it a time exposure? Or something in post?

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http://www.pbase.com/roserus/root

Ben
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http://www.GMCPhotographics.com (weddings)
http://www.pbase.com/gazzajagman (other stuff)
http://www.gazzajagman.deviantart.com

'Science is what we dream of, technology is what we are stuck with' Douglas Adams
 
Thankd bob, your comments are appreciated.

The last image was shot with a 40D and a Sigma 12-24mm. I fitted a Lee 3 Stop Soft ND grad filter to it (so much for the unfilterable front element, it's quite easy with a 1.6 crop camera and a Lee holder).

Looking up .....that's a new word for me ;-) Wow!

There are so many smart people out there! Bob, thanks!
Bob Tullis said:
Quite a nice series. Each one engaging in its own right. I
prefer the color version of the river/pond with the submerged log is
really nice (in part for the wind effect exhibited). And that last
one. . . such a bucolic scene. For me, it's the most effective of
the lot.

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...Bob, NYC

Galleries: http://www.pbase.com/btullis

Click to expand...
--
http://www.GMCPhotographics.com (weddings)
http://www.pbase.com/gazzajagman (other stuff)
http://www.gazzajagman.deviantart.com

'Science is what we dream of, technology is what we are stuck with' Douglas Adams
 
Bob Tullis said:
Yes, this is much better in color accuracy (or so it seems here) -
but the difference in saturation leaves me a little flat. (Maybe
it's only for seeing the first one first?).

I think it could stand more saturation, for the green grasses and the
overall rock formation.
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Hi Bob. Part of the Hans formula is sat boost. I could have added more FM Velvia, but did not want to overcook it. I think I wil wait for my cal chart to arrive and cal my camera and give it another go. Fixing color by eyeball is not my forte, I need some science or a formula for this.

I got a new formula from Shane Pope that is a killer way to do 1DS-mk3 images. Pretty complex, but thinking about doing some actions to carry the heavy lifitng. Also want to try an action for your masking with mutliple layers. That is slick, but I need to get out the written instructions each time I use it. If I do an action I don't have to worry about losing the instructions :-).
Bobo Hodls said:
...Bob, NYC

Galleries: http://www.pbase.com/btullis

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http://www.pbase.com/roserus/root

Ben
 
wcrosman said:
I've added micro contrast as suggested. Also added a bit of
brightness and saturation to the brightest portion of the image. I
think it looks better.
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I do too. In particular, the details on the tree line really pull you in now, but there's a subtle clarity brought in overall.

One observation (did the techn. correction open the eye to the aesthetic?) - the f/g branch on the left blends into the reflection of the granite peak. IF at all possible (a big IF, granted), it would have been better to bring the branches into the reflection of the sky, for some separation.

First I only noticed such things in my own stuff AFTER the shot. Now if I see such things DURING the shot. . . usually the goal isn't attainable. I just mention it, not that this is a big deal in your image, but something to keep an eye out for moving forward, if it wasn't considered before. (Excuse the backseat driving).

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...Bob, NYC

Galleries: http://www.pbase.com/btullis

 
Bob Tullis said:
Rick - talking about MF. . . I have to say I never really trust AF.
I use it enough, and have no complaints, but I'll grab the ring more
oft then hit the AF button. Are you of similar mind?
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Unless I am handholding a lens (about 5% of the time), I manual focus.
Ben_Egbert said:
That IS flawless, as I can tell. Did you pick this vantage for
the composition, or the light? I like it in part for being taken a
bit behind the source of light.
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I shot the formation from every angle and picked this image from the batch. :) I see no point in not exploiting one of digital's most basic advantages, free "film".
Ben_Egbert said:
Ben_Egbert said:
Did you notice that I manually focused the 24-70?
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No, but thats good to know. Where was the focus point?
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I used the Center AF point. That landed on the large rock formation just behind Balanced Rock.
Ben_Egbert said:
I have been
involved in a discussion over at the FM forum about infinity focus.
Not an argument, so much as a question about what it really means.
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Which forum and thread is that going on in? I'd love to peek in.
 
Rick Knepper said:
Rick Knepper said:
I have been
involved in a discussion over at the FM forum about infinity focus.
Not an argument, so much as a question about what it really means.
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Which forum and thread is that going on in? I'd love to peek in.
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Hmm you are on this thread just below where this starts on the 2nd page. Look for Trumpet guy. He says he adjusts his adapters for exact focus at distance when at infinity ( I think). He finally replied and then others take up the answer and it goes off in another direction. Never got my question answered. I see infinity as a range at the end of the focus ring not a hard stop.

http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/651214/1#5900852

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http://www.pbase.com/roserus/root

Ben
 
I want to get lower to the water surface often, but it seems I have to work my way into it, sorta like doing the limbo.

But the oddest feeling was to leave this in place, to go back to shore to sit a bit while waiting for light to change.

http://www.pbase.com/btullis/image/99558988
Apple iPhone
0.00s (???) f/2.8



Not sure if I'll want to submerge the ball head, but I think that's due before end of summer [g]. I think it's time to shop for some chest waders.

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...Bob, NYC

Galleries: http://www.pbase.com/btullis

 
Really appreciated the comments and help improving this shot. I've never used micro contrast before. I can see that I'll be using it more often now that its a part of my toolkit.

Bringing the branch into the reflecting sky was not possible. I was standing at the water's edge and there was no higher spot. If I understand what you're saying I'd either have to move closer or higher to get the effect.

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T---
http://www.crosman.org
 
wcrosman said:
Bringing the branch into the reflecting sky was not possible. I was
standing at the water's edge and there was no higher spot. If I
understand what you're saying I'd either have to move closer or
higher to get the effect.
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I thought, but it's not always easy to assess when not on site, that moving the position towards the left would bring the branches towards the right into the sky reflection. Unsure about whether that would also require raising or lowering the perspective.

But I don't discount that it might have altered the basic composition negatively, IF it were at all possible.

As I said, just food for compositional thought. :)

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...Bob, NYC

Galleries: http://www.pbase.com/btullis

 
I could not do that Bob. But if you want waders, the new kind are very easy to get on and off unlike the old neoprene types.
Bob Tullis said:
I want to get lower to the water surface often, but it seems I have
to work my way into it, sorta like doing the limbo.

But the oddest feeling was to leave this in place, to go back to
shore to sit a bit while waiting for light to change.

http://www.pbase.com/btullis/image/99558988
Apple iPhone
0.00s (???) f/2.8



Not sure if I'll want to submerge the ball head, but I think that's
due before end of summer [g]. I think it's time to shop for some
chest waders.

--
...Bob, NYC

Galleries: http://www.pbase.com/btullis

Click to expand...
--
http://www.pbase.com/roserus/root

Ben
 
Orvis has some nice options, but I hesitate to go to their site as I always gravitate towards the more expensive.

Any alternative advice?

--
...Bob, NYC

Galleries: http://www.pbase.com/btullis

 
Bob Tullis said:
Orvis has some nice options, but I hesitate to go to their site as I
always gravitate towards the more expensive.

Any alternative advice?
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Mine are Orvis, purchased in 2000 and I think close to $200 plus you must but boots separately. Only thing I use them for these days is when I need to get into my pond to prune plants. I noticed Saturday that mine now have a leak in one foot.

Maybe a cheap knock off will work for occasional wading.
Bobo Hodls said:
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...Bob, NYC

Galleries: http://www.pbase.com/btullis

Click to expand...
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http://www.pbase.com/roserus/root

Ben
 
The first and last are great. The middle two seem soft. I wonder if that is the way Pbase compresses non original size files? I tried to open the original size but that control does not work.

I looked around your gallery and you have some nice shots there.

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http://www.pbase.com/roserus/root

Ben
 
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