Concert. Need help with RAW : WB and Light challenge.

mpeman said:

Stu 5 said:

mpeman said:

Stu 5 said:

That's exactly it, it should look like it did at the concert. None of
this WB on the white of someone's eye rubbish.

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Sorry to have suggested it or anything remotely similar. Although it
sure seems tons easier than the method you describe.

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It might seem easier but it is not the correct method.

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For you possibly. I manage images for my musical/ theatre client in
exactly the way I described. I, however, did not insult your method
with the "rubbish" tag.

In addition I would also teach the same method to my college students.

hurtsme said:

When you watch
a concert or a theatre production with lots of red lighting the
whites of someone's eyes are not likely to be white (unless there is
a clear lamp being shone into their eyes) nor is there likely to be
any other neutral point. So by WBing one, a piece of black clothing,
neutral grey or whites of eyes you have just thrown the whole colour
balance out.

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Not necessarily, but it does give a good starting point from which to
batch color correct with. I would never use the whites of eyes...I
would use the gray found on microphone stands!

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hurtsme said:

hurtsme said:

The method I have described should not take anymore than 10 mins to
do. Then start syncing that setting to photos with similar settings.
Better still save it as a preset for future possible use.

hurtsme said:

You say it should look like it did at the concert, then give YOUR
method for getting rid of the reds. Kind of defeating your first
sentence aren't you?

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No not really if you read it fully I did say how. The idea is NOT to
get rid of the reds as the lighting was red to start with, ie there
were gels on the lighting/red lamps. To go into more depth
though........... Lightroom has 3 adjustments, hue, saturation and
luminance for 8 different colour channels. All you do is use these 3
adjustments on the red channel. You might have to alter the orange
ones a tiny bit as well but you won't know that until you start with
the red ones. Digital cameras do have a tendency to go a bit mad
when they see red lighting and all your are trying to do is get this
under control.

hurtsme said:

Some of us were only trying to help the OP in what was requested.

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What he did say in later post was that >
he wanted to preserve the red lighting.

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Me did, but much after I tried to help and inform. Check the time
stamps. When I responded the OP wanted to "correct" the images, not
retain the reds.

hurtsme said:

Also that is what his client asked for as well which was
the correct thing for them to do.

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Again, after my post.

hurtsme said:

It is not the photographers job to
start altering the vision of the lighting designers lighting set up
as far as colour goes. You just need to show it as well as you can in
the final photograph and make sure the colour looks like it did on
the day.

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I agree. If the client likes them keep em the way it is. I just
tried to show how I would correct, a method I have used for many a
clients CD cover. (With their approval of course!) Sometimes it
doesn't hurt to reduce, but not remove, the effects of the lighting
while keeping the idea of the lighting folks in mind. A lot really
depends on who my client is. If it is the venue then most certainly
I cater to the lighting folks! If the client is the performer, then
it is up to them. (90% of my artistic clients want a more subdued
look of the overall lighting..like the red above.) But that is
neither here nor there. You came across as rather insulting and a
snob in insisting YOUR method is the only way. A closed mind at arms
length is a lonely place to be. Doesn't matter...I'm outta here!

Poof!

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tissunique said:

I can only tell you what I use and do. I shoot raw only (D3 and 5D)
and use PS3
where you can upload a series of images and make the adjustment once.
However, with the varience in light that happens quickly and often
mostly I upload a series and adjust each one individually. My next
step is transfer the resultant jpegs back into PS3 and try auto
levels adjustment, auto contrast and then auto colour. If I'm still
not happy I will use the other relevant adjustments manually, and if
I really want to rescue an image I will try B&W conversion. In this
way I usually come away with over 85% results. I use srgb, (mostly)
spot metering (face, mid-tone), single shot, centre point focus and
avoid going over 2000 iso (D3) and 1250 iso (5D). I download all
images from my card to desktop files (I have an in-built card
reader). I never use flash as it usually prohibited.
Tony

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Bilgy_no1 said:

Hi Roel,

I like the shots very much. Don't know if the red light is very
disturbing at all...

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Bilgy_no1 said:

In Olympus Master (version 2) you can actually batch process RAW
files (and adjust WB for multiple pictures). Go to RAW developer.
There is a slide bar on the bottom with all the photos in the
selected folder. Each photo has a little square where you can put a
check mark. The photo you click on will show on screen, but the
adjustments you make will apply to all the checked photos when you
click 'Save".

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Bilgy_no1 said:

Good luck!

Damien

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