The magnifying glass

nzmacro

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Lets try this one again. It's been awhile.

The magnifying glass must be a glass one and not a plastic one. the optical quality of glass is better than even the so called "Optical" plastic versions. They dont tend to scratch as much either.

What I choose to do is to go manual focus, use the zoom control to get the size image you want. No, the camera is not set in the macro mode. The reason is quite simple. The magnifying glass won't focus on infinty anyway and will only allow you to focus about 13-14 inches away even at full tele. So get it off macro mode and use the zoom control for size.

Because we are in manual focus we then just move either forward or backward to focus. Push the shutter half way to lock everything and just move either in or out untill you see sharp focus and then push the shutter the rest of the way.

DOF is always tuff and its a toss up of what the lighting is like and how much you want in focus. My set-ups are generally with external flash for either full exposure of for just fill. The F/stop on the CD-1000 is permantly set at F/11 max and it stays there. The flash is used to compensate for the loss of light. This way max DOF is always reached and even then its not enough most times, so selective focus becomes important.

Next the magnifying glass size. See if this makes sense. The larger the magnifying lens, the less distortion becuase of the curviture in the centre of it is less than a smaller version. Also the less chromatic abberations take place the larger it is.

Doe's it get closer than the diopter filter type of lenses or anything else, the answer is yes it does. I can take a shot of a flies eye at 20x digital the just about fill's the 1600X1200 image of the CD-1000. Nothing else will do that. Plenty of photos to prove the quality and the sizes.

I just hold it up the the front of the lens front element, hard up, the closer the better.

Heres a couple of shots taken with it (reminds me, I have to get back to Ron, sorry Ron, forgot :-(( )

Someone mark this one because I don't really like typing much :-))

All the best and hope this helps explain a few things.

Danny.

Just grabbed this off the site. Each one is full frame at 1600X1200 and they do look sharp.



Macro, what a world.
.............................
http://www.macrophotos.com
 
Wow, those look really good! Where did you buy your magnifying glass and how much? I imagine they aren't too expensive, right?

--
--Kimberly--
I was raised by a pack of wild corn dogs...
 
Nzmacro,

Thank you for the information. I just found my magnifying glass and I am going "hunting." hehe

You pictures and that bee picture of Peggy's last night also inspired me!

DeeDee G.
Lets try this one again. It's been awhile.

The magnifying glass must be a glass one and not a plastic one. the
optical quality of glass is better than even the so called
"Optical" plastic versions. They dont tend to scratch as much
either.

What I choose to do is to go manual focus, use the zoom control to
get the size image you want. No, the camera is not set in the macro
mode. The reason is quite simple. The magnifying glass won't focus
on infinty anyway and will only allow you to focus about 13-14
inches away even at full tele. So get it off macro mode and use the
zoom control for size.

Because we are in manual focus we then just move either forward or
backward to focus. Push the shutter half way to lock everything and
just move either in or out untill you see sharp focus and then push
the shutter the rest of the way.

DOF is always tuff and its a toss up of what the lighting is like
and how much you want in focus. My set-ups are generally with
external flash for either full exposure of for just fill. The
F/stop on the CD-1000 is permantly set at F/11 max and it stays
there. The flash is used to compensate for the loss of light. This
way max DOF is always reached and even then its not enough most
times, so selective focus becomes important.

Next the magnifying glass size. See if this makes sense. The larger
the magnifying lens, the less distortion becuase of the curviture
in the centre of it is less than a smaller version. Also the less
chromatic abberations take place the larger it is.

Doe's it get closer than the diopter filter type of lenses or
anything else, the answer is yes it does. I can take a shot of a
flies eye at 20x digital the just about fill's the 1600X1200 image
of the CD-1000. Nothing else will do that. Plenty of photos to
prove the quality and the sizes.

I just hold it up the the front of the lens front element, hard up,
the closer the better.

Heres a couple of shots taken with it (reminds me, I have to get
back to Ron, sorry Ron, forgot :-(( )

Someone mark this one because I don't really like typing much :-))

All the best and hope this helps explain a few things.

Danny.

Just grabbed this off the site. Each one is full frame at 1600X1200
and they do look sharp.



Macro, what a world.
.............................
http://www.macrophotos.com
--
DeeDee G.
http://www.pbase.com/deedee_g/root
 
Hey Mac ! Can I call you that? lol

Did you enter the current challenge ? I don't recall seeing any entries from you or, my memory is really going! :-) I thought you'd jump at the change to enter one of your super macro shots.... but no entry?

These bug images are interesting. You fo have an afinity for bugs don't you!

Take care,
Mark
Lets try this one again. It's been awhile.

The magnifying glass must be a glass one and not a plastic one. the
optical quality of glass is better than even the so called
"Optical" plastic versions. They dont tend to scratch as much
either.

What I choose to do is to go manual focus, use the zoom control to
get the size image you want. No, the camera is not set in the macro
mode. The reason is quite simple. The magnifying glass won't focus
on infinty anyway and will only allow you to focus about 13-14
inches away even at full tele. So get it off macro mode and use the
zoom control for size.

Because we are in manual focus we then just move either forward or
backward to focus. Push the shutter half way to lock everything and
just move either in or out untill you see sharp focus and then push
the shutter the rest of the way.

DOF is always tuff and its a toss up of what the lighting is like
and how much you want in focus. My set-ups are generally with
external flash for either full exposure of for just fill. The
F/stop on the CD-1000 is permantly set at F/11 max and it stays
there. The flash is used to compensate for the loss of light. This
way max DOF is always reached and even then its not enough most
times, so selective focus becomes important.

Next the magnifying glass size. See if this makes sense. The larger
the magnifying lens, the less distortion becuase of the curviture
in the centre of it is less than a smaller version. Also the less
chromatic abberations take place the larger it is.

Doe's it get closer than the diopter filter type of lenses or
anything else, the answer is yes it does. I can take a shot of a
flies eye at 20x digital the just about fill's the 1600X1200 image
of the CD-1000. Nothing else will do that. Plenty of photos to
prove the quality and the sizes.

I just hold it up the the front of the lens front element, hard up,
the closer the better.

Heres a couple of shots taken with it (reminds me, I have to get
back to Ron, sorry Ron, forgot :-(( )

Someone mark this one because I don't really like typing much :-))

All the best and hope this helps explain a few things.

Danny.

Just grabbed this off the site. Each one is full frame at 1600X1200
and they do look sharp.



Macro, what a world.
.............................
http://www.macrophotos.com
--
B4 USA / Mark
 
Lets try this one again. It's been awhile.
Welcome back, Danny. Don't stay away so long next time. :-) Those macros of yours are too good not to post here frequently.

take care
 
Well, ok here are some results. I could not find any good bugs to photograph since it is raining lightly here. Since I needed 3 hands and it is just me here, I kept it on auto focus and moved the the magnifying glass till it was focused.

Here is a picture of Nemesias with the mag glass:



Here is the same group on macro.



I don't think these are as closeup as Danny's. I'll have to practice a lot more and look around at other mag glasses. I also found that I had to watch for Magnifying Glass Glare - MGG. Is that a new term? =)

Thank you again Danny.

DeeDee G.
Thank you for the information. I just found my magnifying glass
and I am going "hunting." hehe

You pictures and that bee picture of Peggy's last night also
inspired me!

DeeDee G.
Lets try this one again. It's been awhile.

The magnifying glass must be a glass one and not a plastic one. the
optical quality of glass is better than even the so called
"Optical" plastic versions. They dont tend to scratch as much
either.

What I choose to do is to go manual focus, use the zoom control to
get the size image you want. No, the camera is not set in the macro
mode. The reason is quite simple. The magnifying glass won't focus
on infinty anyway and will only allow you to focus about 13-14
inches away even at full tele. So get it off macro mode and use the
zoom control for size.

Because we are in manual focus we then just move either forward or
backward to focus. Push the shutter half way to lock everything and
just move either in or out untill you see sharp focus and then push
the shutter the rest of the way.

DOF is always tuff and its a toss up of what the lighting is like
and how much you want in focus. My set-ups are generally with
external flash for either full exposure of for just fill. The
F/stop on the CD-1000 is permantly set at F/11 max and it stays
there. The flash is used to compensate for the loss of light. This
way max DOF is always reached and even then its not enough most
times, so selective focus becomes important.

Next the magnifying glass size. See if this makes sense. The larger
the magnifying lens, the less distortion becuase of the curviture
in the centre of it is less than a smaller version. Also the less
chromatic abberations take place the larger it is.

Doe's it get closer than the diopter filter type of lenses or
anything else, the answer is yes it does. I can take a shot of a
flies eye at 20x digital the just about fill's the 1600X1200 image
of the CD-1000. Nothing else will do that. Plenty of photos to
prove the quality and the sizes.

I just hold it up the the front of the lens front element, hard up,
the closer the better.

Heres a couple of shots taken with it (reminds me, I have to get
back to Ron, sorry Ron, forgot :-(( )

Someone mark this one because I don't really like typing much :-))

All the best and hope this helps explain a few things.

Danny.

Just grabbed this off the site. Each one is full frame at 1600X1200
and they do look sharp.



Macro, what a world.
.............................
http://www.macrophotos.com
--
DeeDee G.
http://www.pbase.com/deedee_g/root
--
DeeDee G.
http://www.pbase.com/deedee_g/root
 
OOPS! Not sure what happened to the first picture. It's the same size as the second. Here is the first again:



D.
Here is a picture of Nemesias with the mag glass:



Here is the same group on macro.



I don't think these are as closeup as Danny's. I'll have to
practice a lot more and look around at other mag glasses. I also
found that I had to watch for Magnifying Glass Glare - MGG. Is
that a new term? =)

Thank you again Danny.

DeeDee G.
Thank you for the information. I just found my magnifying glass
and I am going "hunting." hehe

You pictures and that bee picture of Peggy's last night also
inspired me!

DeeDee G.
Lets try this one again. It's been awhile.

The magnifying glass must be a glass one and not a plastic one. the
optical quality of glass is better than even the so called
"Optical" plastic versions. They dont tend to scratch as much
either.

What I choose to do is to go manual focus, use the zoom control to
get the size image you want. No, the camera is not set in the macro
mode. The reason is quite simple. The magnifying glass won't focus
on infinty anyway and will only allow you to focus about 13-14
inches away even at full tele. So get it off macro mode and use the
zoom control for size.

Because we are in manual focus we then just move either forward or
backward to focus. Push the shutter half way to lock everything and
just move either in or out untill you see sharp focus and then push
the shutter the rest of the way.

DOF is always tuff and its a toss up of what the lighting is like
and how much you want in focus. My set-ups are generally with
external flash for either full exposure of for just fill. The
F/stop on the CD-1000 is permantly set at F/11 max and it stays
there. The flash is used to compensate for the loss of light. This
way max DOF is always reached and even then its not enough most
times, so selective focus becomes important.

Next the magnifying glass size. See if this makes sense. The larger
the magnifying lens, the less distortion becuase of the curviture
in the centre of it is less than a smaller version. Also the less
chromatic abberations take place the larger it is.

Doe's it get closer than the diopter filter type of lenses or
anything else, the answer is yes it does. I can take a shot of a
flies eye at 20x digital the just about fill's the 1600X1200 image
of the CD-1000. Nothing else will do that. Plenty of photos to
prove the quality and the sizes.

I just hold it up the the front of the lens front element, hard up,
the closer the better.

Heres a couple of shots taken with it (reminds me, I have to get
back to Ron, sorry Ron, forgot :-(( )

Someone mark this one because I don't really like typing much :-))

All the best and hope this helps explain a few things.

Danny.

Just grabbed this off the site. Each one is full frame at 1600X1200
and they do look sharp.



Macro, what a world.
.............................
http://www.macrophotos.com
--
DeeDee G.
http://www.pbase.com/deedee_g/root
--
DeeDee G.
http://www.pbase.com/deedee_g/root
--
DeeDee G.
http://www.pbase.com/deedee_g/root
 
The loss of light comes from using F/11 instead of maybe F/4 for the correct exposure for the light. Thats when the flash gets used to correct that loss. Probably should have said, use flash because of incorrect exposure because the F/stop is set manually.

All the best and hope that sort of helps :-)). My writting is not the greatest :)

Danny.
Thank you. That was a most interesting lesson.
The flash is used to compensate for the loss of light.
Why is there any loss of light? From the magnifying glass?

Regards, Yehuda
--
Macro, what a world.
.............................
http://www.macrophotos.com
 
Danny,

How do you keep the flash from reflecting on the magnifying glass?
All the best and hope that sort of helps :-)). My writting is not
the greatest :)

Danny.
Thank you. That was a most interesting lesson.
The flash is used to compensate for the loss of light.
Why is there any loss of light? From the magnifying glass?

Regards, Yehuda
--
Macro, what a world.
.............................
http://www.macrophotos.com
--
John
http://www.pbase.com/johnrweb/
 
The loss of light comes from using F/11 instead of maybe F/4 for
the correct exposure for the light. Thats when the flash gets used
to correct that loss. Probably should have said, use flash because
of incorrect exposure because the F/stop is set manually.

All the best and hope that sort of helps :-)). My writting is not
the greatest :)

Danny.
Danny, Thank you. You helped me to understand better your technique.

Have a nice day, Yehuda
 

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