Very much so.I think we are pretty much on the same wave length.
Absolutely. Same with most Fxx digicams - great for shooting good quality indoor social event pictures quickly and quietly without using flash, and therefore with minimal intrusions and stresses. When using them this way, you don't have to feel like a photographer or be treated like a photographer, and you can remain a guest and fully enjoy the parties. Fxx digicams may still be the only cameras that enable you to do that.The F20 is
actually pretty limited overall (for me, because I miss a histogram,
backup OVF, adjustments to sharp, contrast etc I have on my SD800
Canon) but for the social shots I discussed it is absolutely the
best. Slip it in your pocket, take it out without being observed,
shoot without flash, and return to pocket.
A really good auto camera would let you customize your Auto ISO, so that you could set your Minimum Shutter Speed for your Auto ISO at full wide to 1/50s or 1/35s (1/35s or 1/36s so that you can follow exactly the 1/focal length rule of thumb). Of course, it could be set to another speed. You could then control how aggressive or not your Auto ISO bumps up ISOs. Fuji really should take that one step further.Yes, I took 50 pix at a party and then wrote down all the exif stuff.
I had been dismayed (initally) with the 1600 max ISO (with no option
except in portrait mode of a 800 ISO limit) but the realized it would
only bump to preserve the necessary 1/focal length speed, perhaps a
bit faster to be conservative.
For example, at an indoor daytime party: All wide shots (8mm = 36mm
equv) were shot at 200, 400 and 800 (no bump to 1600 because of F2.8
lens at 8mm focal length let in enough light) and speed ranged from
1/60, 1/70, 1/90 and 1/100. The 1/100 was with ISO 800. I realized
camera bumped to ISO 800 to preserve the 1/60 minimum speed (unless
of course if it tops out at ISO 1600 and needs more light it will go
lower), because if kept at ISO 400 the speed would need to be 1/50th.
I would have been happy with ISO 400 and 1/50th, but "hey" this is an
auto camera grin
That I noticed too. I thought you have tried every Focal Length and figured out exactly the Minimum Shutter Speed for each Focal Length. Maybe you did.At the other extreme:
At zoomed in at 24mm (this is the 3x max = 110mm equivalent) the ISO
went to 1600 a few times to maintain at least 1/125th to keep lens
stable. Part of the reason is now the lens is at F5-ish. So, one
needs to accept higher ISO. Example is 1/150th at 1600 ISO when
zoomed in. In this case a ISO of 800 would have resulted in a 1/75th
speed which is lower than the 1/focal length "rule of thumb". Since
the focal length was the equiv. of 110mm, this explains why the
1/125th is the minimum desired speed when fully zoomed in. (Except,
if when bumped to ISO 1600 there is still not enough light, then
speed will drop commensurately.
Too bad there isn't Auto ISO 800 on the F20 for you. You would have capped most shots at ISO 800.I admit that for me this a bit too conservative, but not by much.
And since ISO 1600 looks no worse on this camera than ISO 400 on my
other pocket cameras, I am happy.
If I were Fuji, I would put a firmware upgrade for F30 and F20, to add Auto ISO 800. I think some of you would pay $10 for that, wouldn't you? Better yet, add Customizable Auto ISOs (3 customizable Auto ISOs: Auto 1, Auto 2 and Auto 3) to F30/20/31/40 .... via a firmware upgrade and sell it for $20. If Fuji were losing money on some models (which I think they did or still do), that would be a better move for them instead of coming up with another money losing model. This would at least make some money for them.
Better yet is if you can customize your F20 beforehand (mostly on its Auto ISO behavior) - set it once, forget about it, and go to many parties (you may come back to change the settings once in a while if your taste changes). And you know your F20 will do exactly what you like it to do.What surprises me further is that I shoot without much thinking this
way. I don't worry about anything. Just shoot. The fact that there
is no histogram or controls for contrast, saturation etc would be
intolerable to me for landscapes, but for social snaps the fact that
I have no choices makes it all the more easy to use when I would just
as soon enjoy the social gathering than think about the camera.
Agree completely that enjoying the social gathering is the most important thing!