Do I need filters?

C_Heath

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Polarizers? UV?

Im lost. Ive googled, yes, but you guys are the best. I shoot alot outside, kids, sports, beach etc. I use a little photoshop, not alot.

Thanks in advance.
Chris
--
Canon EOS XTI
kit Lens
canon 50mm 1.8 II
Sigma 70-300 APO Zoom Lens.
Relatively new at this (SLR Photography that is)
Check out my new Pbase gallery........

http://www.pbase.com/c_heath
 
I personally don't find filters useful except under very certain circumstances. You can probably get by without them unless you are going for a specific shot that requires it.
 
UV filters have no impact whatsoever on your image.... (apart from possible image degradation due to the extra plane of glass).

Polarizers are good for certain effects - shifting reflections, saturating colors,... but are dependent on their angle to the sun.
Polarizers? UV?

Im lost. Ive googled, yes, but you guys are the best. I shoot alot
outside, kids, sports, beach etc. I use a little photoshop, not alot.

Thanks in advance.
Chris
--
Canon EOS XTI
kit Lens
canon 50mm 1.8 II
Sigma 70-300 APO Zoom Lens.
Relatively new at this (SLR Photography that is)
Check out my new Pbase gallery........

http://www.pbase.com/c_heath
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I think most people when they first get a SLR end up with a filter because the salesperson manages to convince them that they need it to protect their lens.

I can categorically say that I have never known anyone, myself included, who has ever had lens damage prevented by a filter, or had a lens without a filter damaged in a way such that a filter would have prevented it. It's just such an unlikely thing to happen.
 
Need... no, but you may want to give them a try.

The three I use most frequently are (ND) Neutral Density (Allows me to take a long exposure in good light to do things like blur a waterfall), Graduated ND (Top is darker than the bottom allowing a balanced exposure for things like sunrise/sunset shots) and lastly a Circular Polarizer (Which really helps make sky pop in landscape shots among other things)

As for the UV/Haze filters, there is a ongoing debate if there is any benefit. I use them when I am in adverse environments and I am going to need to give the lens a wipe or two. I feel a lot better using my shirt tail (not good) on a filter than the front element of a $1600 lens. There are other situations where the filter will detract from a shot (even good multi-coated ones) so I take it off. In theory they also "protect" the lens. On all three occasions where I have damaged a lens, it had nothing to do with the front element and the filter was of no help.
 
The universe is split on filters.

You fall into one of two camps :

(a) Use filters to alter the light before it's captured ( and in principle minimize post processing needed ).

OR

(b) Most filters aren't needed you can fake it in photoshop.

Now (b) isn't strictly true ( some filters you cannot duplicate ) but (a) is difficult to get the hang of - filters are a fairly blunt weapon. Filters were unavoidable in film days because they were the frontline weapon in getting decent white balance and color tone. Digital is completely different and you have far more direct control of white balance and tone with digital and can also fix it afterwards.

Personally I think you need to balance these viewpoints. A polarizer and an ND filter are not things you can replicate any other way.

The basic filters are :

(1) UV filters. Some people use these for protecting the lenses from damage and dirt. I don't - I think it's better to use the hood. UV filters don't actually do anything else on a DSLR or P&S - the sensors are pretty much immune to UV except at much higher altitudes. UV filters, especially cheap ones, will add a slight color cast to your images in my experience. I don't recommend them.

(2) Circular Polarizer. Put simply it is an effect you cannot properly ( or easily ) fake in post processing. The effect is variable and is not for all occasions. It takes a little practice to get the hang of when to use it and when not. Everyone should have one and know how to use it. These are worth reading up on.

(3) ND filters. Basically these reduce the amount, but not the color tone, of light entering the lens. It allows longer exposures and/or wider apertures in bright scenes.

(4) ND Grad. A split filter, half clear and half an ND. You usually arrange it to keep the ND half reducing the brightest part of your photo and the clear part on the darkest. The idea is to reduce the extreme contrast in scenes and let you capture more detail from both.

(5) Close-up filters. Really these are glorified magnifying glasses for lenses. They aren't strictly what you are asking about. They are used for macro work to get more magnification than is possible with just a lens and/or extension tubes and other methods.

(6) IR pass filters. These are filters than block some or all visible light and let IR through. They are used by people who do IR photography.

Most of the remaining filters are for white or color balance adjustment. The majority of these can be emulated by changing settings on your camera or in post processing. That said if you know what they do and prefer to avoid post processing it can be good to use them. If you want to take the post processing route it's better to shoot RAW.

Filters come in a few different mechanical types. Screw-on circular, square slot in and rear mount. Most people use screw-in or square slot. Square slot is flexible but really not for a casual user. Screw-in is the easiest and generally works fine. Rear mount fit between lens and camera and are specific to certain lenses, typically some fish-eye and wide angle lenses or very large telephotos, where it's impractical to purchase or use a front fitting filter.

The more expensive filters use coatings similar to those on lenses and have mechanical designs to reduce optical effects and minimize light loss. For a casual user it's debatable if these offer much advantage over cheaper ones. It's a matter of personal need and preference.

--
StephenG

Fuji S3 Pro
Pentax K100D
Fuji S9600
Fuji E900
PCLinuxOS
 
The only filters I need are a polarizer and graduated neutral density. The rest can be done in post.

I do not use filters for protection.

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Nothing is enough for the man to whom nothing is enough.
 

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