M42 lens and adapter (Cleaning fugus and correcting metering)

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I recently bought a pentacon 135mm f2.8 lens of ebay for a pittance (zebra style casing too), but was disappointed to find it had a minor amount of fungus. I decided it would be better to try and clean it given the low cost and the experience it would give me.

Having no real previous experience I took photos as i went along and kept the pieces of the lens lined up in order. I was surprised how simply everything fits together and i soon had completely disassembled it. I however almost 2 tiny springs which shot out, so be warned to keep your hands covering whichever section you unscrew. I also didn't think to note the helicoid position so had much fun getting it to focus the full range again. (It turned out there was a groove which lined up with the infinity mark on the focus ring so it wasn't much trouble to realign, i guess this is how they assemble them originally). The only tools I needed were jeweller's screwdrivers (very small ones at that for one screw), and a piece of metal cut to size to act as a lens spanner wrench thing on a tighter lens.

I didn't really know if the cleaning was going to work but i was surprised. I just blew the dust of each element then dabs with 50/50 hydrogen peroxide and ammonia as i read somewhere. This actually got rid of the stuff fairly effectively. I also washed out the rest of the lens casings in a vague hope of getting rid of any dormant spores. Then i just used some 91% (i think) isopropyl alcohol to clean up the lenses and put it back together.

After this i had to wait a while for my m42 adapter to come and when it did I was disappointedly to find while it metered accurately in m mode av was off for no reason considering it is a preset lens. After a perusal of the webs I came across this "http: kmp . bdimitrov . de/technology/K-mount/Ka.html" site. Using the contact positions explained there I scratched the matching sections of my black anodized m42 (cheap non infinity one) to match and voilà I have accurate metering in av.

However, I cannot make contact with the recessed contact and was wondering it anyone had got any further with this. I'm curious whether pursuing this is worth it and if anyone has done it. The contact would have to be sprung but simply drilling through the m42 adapter then soldering/welding on a thin strip of bendy metal across the hole, and inserting a pin to make the contact.

Is there any real benefit of doing this? Doing it will allow me to dial in the aperture on av mode and it will meter as if the aperture was set to that, though you still actually have to manually set the aperture ring to that position if you want the reading to serve any purpose. I can see no reason. Any thought?

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http://www.flickr.com/photos/26674072@N06/
 
Hello,

I almost use my K10D with M2 lenses (well, except a Pentax-A 50 f/1.7 and 85 f/1.8 Pentax-K), and i too was really disappointed when i realized that the Av mode wouldn't work with the old Takumars i was using. I have not (yet) the article on the Dimitrov site, but i have solved the problem differently. When i shot with an M42 lens, now i use the camera in manual mode, set the f/stop on the lens, and then hit the green button (near the shutter button) to let the camera meter the light and select the right exposure time. A little more tricky, but it works ... most of the time, since i have noticed that with some lenses (typically, old Carl Zeiss or Meyer) the camera overexposes a little (between half and a full f/stop), but, once i noticed that, it was quickly fixed ...

The contact trick you are talking seems to be really interesting, but my M42 adapter doesn't have a flange (to allow infinity focus), and i don't want to scratch the body of my lenses ...

So, before going on with the mods on your adapter, give a try to the green button method, its almost as fast as Av ...

Best regards

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http://www.flickr.com/photos/indianadinos/
http://k10dpentax.blogspot.com/
 
Why won't Av mode work with the old takumars? That is all I use. If you attach an old M42 lens, you have to use it preset as the camera cannot step down the aperture. All you do is set the lens to Manual and set the camera to Av mode. When you turn the aperture ring the shutter speed will change automatically. I find the least convenient lenses to use are the M or K versions of the K mount lenses. These must be used in manual or only shot wide open in other modes.
 
Hello,
Why won't Av mode work with the old takumars? That is all I use. If
you attach an old M42 lens, you have to use it preset as the camera
cannot step down the aperture. All you do is set the lens to Manual
and set the camera to Av mode. When you turn the aperture ring the
shutter speed will change automatically.
You are right, but ... which camera are you using ? I have a K10D, and if i use it this way (as i were doing before discovering how to use the green button), the exposure time is really b* it, while it is right when i use the green button ...

Don't know why, but it seems that my camera performs a different kind of light metering ... and it works great when i use the green button ...
I find the least convenient
lenses to use are the M or K versions of the K mount lenses. These
must be used in manual or only shot wide open in other modes.
Totally agree ... In fact, i am trying to convert my MLBA (Manual LBA) in ALBA (not Jessica ;-) ), looking for A lenses (i do really love to switch f/stop using the camera instead of the lens ring) ...

Best regards

--
http://www.flickr.com/photos/indianadinos/
http://k10dpentax.blogspot.com/
 
I'm fully aware of the green button method (ae-l button on my k100d). I was just surprised that the over/underexposure on av mode seems to be just due to the contacts. I wouldn't recommend trying this except on a flanged m42 adapter, that way you risk little. You just have to ensure there are no shavings on which could get in mechanisms.
--
http://www.flickr.com/photos/26674072@N06/
 
K10D and K20D. I find my green button not to be very accurate. I do have to apply some exposure bias on lenses, but rarely more than 0.5 to 1 stops. I will pay more careful attention next time I try and let you know (I just adjust it out of force of habit, so I don't think about it when I do it).
 
All my M42 lenses under meter to a lesser or greater amount when used in anything but manual mode. As well as this, most of my old M42 lenses flare somewhat. What I do is stick a little label under each lens to guide me as to how much I should adjust the exposure compensator for that particular lens.

Worst of all, I have an SMC Takumar 55mm f2 lens which won't focus to affinity even with the genuine Pentax adapter.

I love the old lenses because of the price but also recognise that they have early attempts at coatings so flare a fair bit as well. As someone has already pointed out they are in some ways more versatile on a digital body than what the K & M generation lenses are.
 
Hello,
All my M42 lenses under meter to a lesser or greater amount when used
in anything but manual mode. As well as this, most of my old M42
lenses flare somewhat. What I do is stick a little label under each
lens to guide me as to how much I should adjust the exposure
compensator for that particular lens.
Great idea, never thought about ...
Worst of all, I have an SMC Takumar 55mm f2 lens which won't focus to
affinity even with the genuine Pentax adapter.
Maybe i could help, here ... I have posted on my blog a whole photosequence showing how to fix the infinity focus on a Takumar 24mm (i had the same problem as you on this lens), if you want to try to fix it, the link to my blog is in my signature, then the post is still available in the latest posts in the right menu ...
I love the old lenses because of the price but also recognise that
they have early attempts at coatings so flare a fair bit as well. As
someone has already pointed out they are in some ways more versatile
on a digital body than what the K & M generation lenses are.
Don't underestimate the SMC coating of old Takumars, is not bad at all ... Actually, the old lenses i use most of the time are a Pentax-K 85 f/1.8 of 1975, an SMC Takumar 105 f/2.8 dated about 1960, and an SMC Takumar 35 f/3.5 (almost, same age), and they do not suffer from flare ... well, unless i spot a string light source ;-) ...

Hope this helps

Best regards

--
http://www.flickr.com/photos/indianadinos/
http://k10dpentax.blogspot.com/
 
Hello,

My experience: no metering problem with Takumars or Nikkors, overexposure with Zeiss and Meyer lenses ... Because of difference in coatings ? Never tested with Pentacon lenses (the only one i had the chance to put my hands on was horribly infected by a fungus, so i didn't even try to mount it on the camera :-( ...)

Anyway, it would be interesting to have the results of your tests, maybe i could do the same with the lenses i own, and try to build a kind of database ...

Best regards

--
http://www.flickr.com/photos/indianadinos/
http://k10dpentax.blogspot.com/
 

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