Yes..It appears the firmware DOES work

The problems I used to had could be described shortly as follows: I
was shooting the same (still) subject in ONE SHOT mode, not changing
anything, not even moving camera/myself, pointing at the same spot,
refocusing & taking the shot several times, and usually each shot was
focused differently, very often none was in perfect focus.
I experienced the same thing with my session on the sunny beach with
1Ds3 and 400/5.6L.
Your both describing the problem I have seen with my 1Ds Mk3. The
problem seems worse when all AF points are enable vs. only the single
center AF point. I have loaded the latest firmware, but haven't
taken the time to test it. Frankly, because I am sick-n-tired of
playing Alpha tester for Canon's poor QA/QC.
--Then do the right thing and send it to Canon repair. Whining about it here is useless. I have an early model #517 XXX that was having the same one shot AF problems. No firmware update will fix a calibration or hardware problem.
If Canon can't fix it, they will replace it.

My monster slams them out as well as any blue dot out there now... after a visit to Irvine Canon Repair with no shipping charges. If fact, all my bodies and L lenses shot better then they ever did; Canon more than took care of me, they bent over backwards.

Escalate your case to a problem resolution specialist by contacting Canon's main North America Corp office, then thank me for the good intel!

-Fortune favors the bold-
 
I redid the static image in AI-Servo test I did back in January.
There is certainly some improvement but the focus continues to move
around more than my Mark IIn.
--It should seem to move around a bit more; the MK-3's AF is almost a full f/shot more sensitive. Trouble was it was too much.
AF is as much an art as a science.
Canon adjusted the AF filter algorithms.

In effect what Canon did was increase the AF lock on hysteresis; it was too sensitive and was reacting too aggressively to changes in the AF image.

-Fortune favors the bold-
 
For certain the LCD image has changed. Previously if you looked at live view in 10x you would see a sharp image. Take the photo and the viewed image was blurred in comparison to the live view you saw. Now the replayed image is as sharp as the live view.

(this is on 1DsmkIII)

--
Dave Peters
 
You shoot for fun which is great, Sometimes I wish I could but I have to do what the client wants and demands- Thats how I keep my job- Your pictures are great-artistic- but Here in America- Nascar- Things are done different- If you dont know the sport and what the clients in America(Sponsors-Drivers-Teams) Then in all honesty Dont Comment on something you dont know. Have I done the artistic stuff- All the time- but super slow shutter speeds- Dont sell photos- No sell means No House- Thats economics- Back to physics and downforce- In Nascar- Which I dont think you have any sense of- If the car is doing 40-60 mph(Yellow) then the front valance is about an inch of the ground- Once the car is doing 180 to 190 the front is either scrapping or just barely missing the ground. And Boys and Girls that is why I dont shoot under Yellow- So once again- I dont need to throw out a bunch of fancy numbers and act like I know what Im talking about-So maybe you dont know as much as you think-
And to show my American Super Ego-Instead of Cheers
See-Ya
--
It is-What it is-I think
 
[snip]So maybe you dont know as much as you think-
And to show my American Super Ego-Instead of Cheers
See-Ya
Maybe I don't... But I strongly suspect I do... I wasn't the one initially claiming that there was no downforce unless at top speed..

And I stand by my assertion that 1/640 - 1/800 will generally give parked looking racing cars. I have shot (admittedly from the stands) Formula 1 a few years ago and I was using high shutter speeds (above 1/400) and they are all boring as hell unless dead front on.

I am confident that almost any experienced motorsport photographer would agree that the shutter speeds you use are not conducive to a sensation of speed.

As you said though, you have a specific requirement for super clear shots of the whole car and you DO get a little blurring of the wheels, so obviously it works for you. I think Nascar is pretty much the only motorsport it would work for though.

--
Regards - Neil
Check out my random pics at http://www.nzsnaps.com
 
That's weird. I would say your focus test shows the 1D3 performs better with the prior firmware than with the new firmware. It looks like there's 3 critically sharp images on the 'old' vs. 1 on the 'new'.

Question, are you still hearing the chattering? Based on what other users of the new firmware are saying (granted it's a small sample) the static subject servo works great. Wondering if you have a dud camera. ??

--
Cheers,
Doug

http://www.doglesbyimages.com
 
I looked at your website and if you tell me for some of those rally cars your not using a high shutter speed-Im going to tell you your a bold face liar- Theres a car in mid air and I can see every part of the rim. In focus-Which means it looks parked- No one is saying you cant take good pictures with a slow shutter speed but for God sake any kid or monkey for that sake can take pictures under a yellow flag(which is the real point of this whole thing). Us professionals (who shoot the Nascar circus) would never shoot a car under caution and submit it to a newspaper-magazine or team. Its what seperates the boys from the men(girls to women) to be politically correct. To each there own but In my orginal statement Only sissy's shoot under caution- For God sake- Any one can shoot a car at 40mph-Thats what Im talking about
--
It is-What it is-I think
 
--Then do the right thing and send it to Canon repair.
Canon's repair service is a hit-n-miss deal. Sometimes they get it right, sometimes they miss the problem, and sometimes they cause more problems.
Whining about it here is useless.
Alerting others to the issues of Canon's AF problems is not whining. Had I known the 1D AF problems would manifest themselves in the 1Ds; I would not have bought the camera.
Escalate your case to a problem resolution specialist by contacting
Canon's main North America Corp office, then thank me for the good
intel!
A specialist isn't going to do any good at this point. It is going to take a registered letter to Canon's corporate offices. The issue is Canon has a serious QA/QC problem in their manufacturing and in their repair/service areas.
 
Try looking at an OLDER image taken with the camera . . just re-load it onto the CF card and look at it.

Has it changed?

I suspect it will still look like it did before, and that the changes everybody's seeing don't really have anything to do with the LCD, per se, but with the quality/sharpness of the embedded JPG.
For certain the LCD image has changed. Previously if you looked at
live view in 10x you would see a sharp image. Take the photo and the
viewed image was blurred in comparison to the live view you saw. Now
the replayed image is as sharp as the live view.

(this is on 1DsmkIII)
 
What are you shooting in those images, with what lens, and what kind of lighting? Along with ISO, aperture, and shutter speed?

Those are the kinds of images that would drive my 1D's crazy. I think the 1D-2's were a bit better, though by then I had pretty much quit testing lenses with charts like that, since the 1D-2's did a much better job than the 1D's in "real life" photos.

I haven't even tried shots like that with the 1D-3's, since it works so well in real life photos.

What I can say, though, is that with the 1D's, testing in low light (like those appear to be) always gave these kinds of problems . . but testing in sunlight eliminated most of that.
 
--Then do the right thing and send it to Canon repair.
Canon's repair service is a hit-n-miss deal. Sometimes they get it
right, sometimes they miss the problem, and sometimes they cause more
problems.
So rather than send it in to be fixed, you are just going to live
with any problems? That is some strange logic...
What good does it do to keep sending the camera back in for service if the:
a) service center fails to resolve a problem
b) service center leaves behind cleaning material causing a new problem
c) the camera comes back from the service center with AF problems

And had you read the rest of my post you would have read I have no attention of living with the problems.
 
--Then do the right thing and send it to Canon repair.
Canon's repair service is a hit-n-miss deal. Sometimes they get it
right, sometimes they miss the problem, and sometimes they cause more
problems.
So rather than send it in to be fixed, you are just going to live
with any problems? That is some strange logic...
What good does it do to keep sending the camera back in for service
if the:
a) service center fails to resolve a problem
b) service center leaves behind cleaning material causing a new problem
c) the camera comes back from the service center with AF problems
And had you read the rest of my post you would have read I have no
attention of living with the problems.
--I'm not here to give training in being assertive. I've dealt with Canon multiple times for multiple products including the MK-3, and never found Canon impossible to deal with. You need to give them at least two times to resolve the issue. I never had to so much as email the corporate office, I requested that it be escalated by a support super, and they did. Corporate assigned one person to oversee the repair... it got done, and done right.

My MK-3 is not for sale....
-Fortune favors the bold-
 
Well, I've just installed the new firmware and intend to field-test it tomorrow, but I can say that the addition of focus-point selection with the multi-controller stick had me dancing a little jig. It has always bugged me that my 5d felt much easier to handle in that respect. Now I've also got F-stop on the dial-wheel, focus-point on the stick on my 1dIII. As it should be. Very nice.
 
I looked at your website and if you tell me for some of those rally
cars your not using a high shutter speed-Im going to tell you your a
bold face liar- Theres a car in mid air and I can see every part of
the rim. In focus-Which means it looks parked- No one is saying you
cant take good pictures with a slow shutter speed but for God sake
any kid or monkey for that sake can take pictures under a yellow
flag(which is the real point of this whole thing). Us professionals
(who shoot the Nascar circus) would never shoot a car under caution
and submit it to a newspaper-magazine or team. Its what seperates the
boys from the men(girls to women) to be politically correct. To each
there own but In my orginal statement Only sissy's shoot under
caution- For God sake- Any one can shoot a car at 40mph-Thats what Im
talking about
Sorry, you're so close here, but you're still missing the point. Of course I use high shutter speeds sometimes. I really didn't think I'd need to explain to a professional motorsport photographer but here goes...

When the car is on the ground, and the camera has a good view of the wheels, and there is a lack of other context cues for speed (see below), then it's up to the photographer to add the sensation of speed. This means slow shutter speeds (generally).

You quote that on my site there's a photo of a CAR IN MID AIR with the wheel frozen. I'd maintain that the CAR BEING IN MID AIR is a pretty reasonable context cue for it not being parked.

Other cues can include sprays of dirt from the wheels (also water sprays for jetsprint boats etc), being in the air, or on 2 wheels, smoke from a tyre lockup perhaps etc etc.

The other situation where high speed is used a lot is where the wheels typically can't be seen well, such as a head on shot. In this case I try to dial out as muchDOF as possible and isolate the car against the background - this means big aperture and consequently fast shutter speeds (unless I want to stack filters).

There are some older shots on my site that suck - like the first drift event I covered - They all look so static... Also, when shooting rallying I tend to be a little less creative because you get relatively few opportunities for each car over a weekend - but I hate myself when I find myself putting the shutter up to a safe speed...

Nascar is only a small subset of motorsport and I quite agree with you that a shot taken of a car at 60mph will have a different feel than one taken at 190... But that's pretty much a special case.

Other forms of motorsport that have real corners like rallying can give some great photo opportunities at 40mph, or 20mph, or even damn near static (think rear wheel drive BDA Escort at a hairpin in the mud).

I'm afraid that I need to quote something back at you... You say only sissies shoot under yellow and anyone can shoot a car going at 40mph...well, I say only sissies shoot at 1/640 or 1/800... Anyone could get a great photo at those shutter speeds.

Try shooting F1 cars at 1/125, or rally cars doing 100mph on gravel at 1/100. I guarantee you it's a lot harder than shooting a car at 190mph on a very predictable trajectory on a very flat surface.

--
Regards - Neil
Check out my random pics at http://www.nzsnaps.com
 

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