K100 settings...

BLawson

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Following the general advice in this site's review of the K100, I've got the following setitngs on my new (and already quite enjoyable) K100:
RGB photo space
Natural Tone
Contrast -1
Saturation -2
Sharpness +1

Does anyone's experience suggest a different mix that I might try for best IQ B&W images using either manual or Av mode? Thanks
--
Brian
 
Following the general advice in this site's review of the K100, I've
got the following setitngs on my new (and already quite enjoyable)
K100:
RGB photo space
Natural Tone
Contrast -1
Saturation -2
Sharpness +1
I use AdobeRGB + Bright tone which I think gives more accurate lifelike colours while still being lively and cheerful.
Saturation +1
Sharpness 0 (I shoot raw and sharpen the raw file)
Contrast (-1 -> +1, mostly 0)
 
Following the general advice in this site's review of the K100, I've
got the following setitngs on my new (and already quite enjoyable)
K100:
RGB photo space
Natural Tone
Contrast -1
Saturation -2
Sharpness +1
I use AdobeRGB + Bright tone which I think gives more accurate
why using adobe rgb and NOT sRGB? Do you see any improvements of your pictures? while displaying them on the computer?

And Bright tone + Saturation: isn't it too much? Are your red still correct?

Thanks for your answers...
 
I use AdobeRGB + Bright tone which I think gives more accurate
why using adobe rgb and NOT sRGB? Do you see any improvements of your
pictures? while displaying them on the computer?
I think I get more faithful and natural looking colours. Skin tones also look less artificial (pink).
And Bright tone + Saturation: isn't it too much? Are your red still
correct?
Try it. They look correct to me. I adjust saturation and contrast for each photo when post processing. As a very general rule of thumb I try to keep contrast down when I want a higher saturation for a given photo and saturation down when I need a higher contrast. Sometimes you want both increased or decreased of course.
 
I tend to agree with you wrt aRGB on the K100D. It doesn't really matter with RAW, but with jpgs lately, I use aRGB and convert to sRGB in CS3, mainly for skin tones which then look much more like Silkypix/RAW results and I've found no other way to get it right with jpgs. I think (unproven) that there may also be slightly less tendency to clip the red channel, saturated reds seem a little more detailed but I haven't done any scientific tests.

The actual camera Saturation/Contrast/Sharpness Bright/Natural settings are down to taste, but I use Saturation +1 , Sharpness -1, Contrast -2, Natural, knowing that I'll slightly tweak contrast/sharpness in PP.

If I wasn't using PP then I would use Bright tone and Saturation 0, Sharpness 0, Contrast 0 but still with aRGB converted to sRGB.
 
gaddigad wrote:
why using adobe rgb and NOT sRGB? Do you see any improvements of your
pictures? while displaying them on the computer?

And Bright tone + Saturation: isn't it too much? Are your red still
correct?

Thanks for your answers...
As I have the camera set, onscreen I see better fleshtones with aRGB but better reds with sRGB, but that may be confounded by other variables.

Maybe I should run some test images, but even though math ain't my strong suit, that would mean taking 720 images to compare the different combinations ... 5 settings (-2/+2) for each of the Sat/Sharp/Cont settings times 2 Image Tone settings? And is it really worth it?
--
Brian
 
I know I see a lot of posts here about using natural tone but when I look at bright tone it is more appealing and I know the review of the K100D showed how there is less detail in bright vs natural but I prefer the color over the extra detail.

I definitely would not add saturation.

But why change the sharpness, I am usually against upping sharpness, does it really look better? I figure it is like a TV, turn it down and let the source give me the detail and not the fake TV settings.
 
But why change the sharpness, I am usually against upping sharpness,
does it really look better? I figure it is like a TV, turn it down
and let the source give me the detail and not the fake TV settings.
The problem with current digital sensors is "moire" patterns, or banding on pictures caused by interference patterns because of the different pixel layouts of the source (sensor) and output (screen / printer). Digital sensors can also produce "aliasing" or "jaggies" into sharply contrasting edges - particularly diagonals.

Current digital cameras overcome this by introducing a deliberate "blurring" of the picture achieved through an anti-aliasing filter. These vary in strength but all effectively blur the resulting picture.

There is also a blurring or blending effect introduced by the Bayer Interpolation algorithm that merges red, green and blue pixels to produce a full colour picture.

So, when you are looking at an unsharpened picture from a digital camera you are not seeing the true "source" at all, but a blurred / interpolated version.

That is why it is nearly always necessary to increase sharpening (or more accurately "accutance") in a digital image. The extent of this is a matter of taste and is generally less necessary on a high megapixel picture - particularly if viewed at a small size on a computer monitor or printed at less than native resolution.

This is one of the (few) advantages that an analogue medium like film has over a digital one.
 
Home Printer? Screen only? Lab Printer?

THis will make a difference to what you need.
Following the general advice in this site's review of the K100, I've
got the following setitngs on my new (and already quite enjoyable)
K100:
RGB photo space
Natural Tone
Contrast -1
Saturation -2
Sharpness +1

Does anyone's experience suggest a different mix that I might try for
best IQ B&W images using either manual or Av mode? Thanks
--
Brian
--
***********************************************
Please visit my gallery at http://www.pbase.com/alfisti

Pentax Lens examples at http://www.pbase.com/alfisti/images_by_lens

Updated February '08
 
I've only had the 100d Super for a couple of weeks. but I've spent quite a lot of time trying to decide on the settings. FWIW, so far I like:

Natural
Contrast 0
Saturation +1
Sharpness +1

I haven't played with RGB settings yet.

--
Dan
CanonA720IS
PentaxK100dSuper
 
Try bright and contrast -1.

I can see what you're trying to do and I found this works better.
I've only had the 100d Super for a couple of weeks. but I've spent
quite a lot of time trying to decide on the settings. FWIW, so far I
like:

Natural
Contrast 0
Saturation +1
Sharpness +1

I haven't played with RGB settings yet.

--
Dan
CanonA720IS
PentaxK100dSuper
--
***********************************************
Please visit my gallery at http://www.pbase.com/alfisti

Pentax Lens examples at http://www.pbase.com/alfisti/images_by_lens

Updated February '08
 
Try bright and contrast -1.

I can see what you're trying to do and I found this works better.
You're right, colour-wise I couldn't tell them apart, but your setup showed finer detail. Thanks.
--
Dan
CanonA720IS
PentaxK100dSuper
 
I think the reason for that is that it is processed a little more agressively so the shadows show more detail.
Try bright and contrast -1.

I can see what you're trying to do and I found this works better.
You're right, colour-wise I couldn't tell them apart, but your setup
showed finer detail. Thanks.
--
Dan
CanonA720IS
PentaxK100dSuper
--
***********************************************
Please visit my gallery at http://www.pbase.com/alfisti

Pentax Lens examples at http://www.pbase.com/alfisti/images_by_lens

Updated February '08
 
What settings do you use as standard/default?
--
Dan
CanonA720IS
PentaxK100dSuper
 
There are some posts around here that advocate these settings on the K100D Suoer:
SRGB
Natural tone
Saturation 0
Sharpness +1
Contrast -1

I've tried it and I like it.
--
Dan
CanonA720IS
PentaxK100dSuper
 
That is going to yield a very low contrast image.

Fine for pping but then what's the point? May as well shoot RAW.
There are some posts around here that advocate these settings on the
K100D Suoer:
SRGB
Natural tone
Saturation 0
Sharpness +1
Contrast -1

I've tried it and I like it.
--
Dan
CanonA720IS
PentaxK100dSuper
--
***********************************************
Please visit my gallery at http://www.pbase.com/alfisti

Pentax Lens examples at http://www.pbase.com/alfisti/images_by_lens

Updated February '08
 
Bright, minus one contrast.

TBH though, there is no solution as each image is different. I would use this JPG though as I prefer glossy prints (punchy/bright) but they loose the black's easily so I go easy on the contrast.
That is going to yield a very low contrast image.

Fine for pping but then what's the point? May as well shoot RAW.
What settings do you use? I'm more than willing to try something else.
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1036&message=27664689

--
Dan
CanonA720IS
PentaxK100dSuper
--
***********************************************
Please visit my gallery at http://www.pbase.com/alfisti

Pentax Lens examples at http://www.pbase.com/alfisti/images_by_lens

Updated February '08
 

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