80-200 AF-D vs. 70-300 G

Hi Guys,

I've just started thinking about getting some new lens(es) again and this time I want to get something telephoto. The only telephoto lens I have right now is the plane old 70-300 G that I got with my N75 kit in 2003. The lens works OK, but I would like it to be sharper and the ability to use a faster aperture when the sun gets low.

I've been looking at the 80-200 AF-D and I have a few questions. I'm not the type that sits and looks at every pixel looking for a difference but I do appreciate high IQ. I normally shoot around f/4.5-8 but would like to get faster when the sun starts to get low. My main question is will I see a noticeable difference in IQ and sharpness with the 80-200 compared to my 70-300? I am not at all happy with the IQ of the 70-300 towards the long end and I'm hoping the 80-200 will fix that. I'm not a pro (obviously) so would the price be worth it for me? I primarily shoot for my own enjoyment but occasionally get published.

I wasn't planning on purchasing so soon, but a used one just became available for around $699. I really don't want to buy it online so this might be the best chance I get.

Thanks.

Hey MJohnB, I have a 70-300 and the 80-200 f2.8 AF-S and used both while in Ireland and Scotland. I found that with cropping to equivalent FL the 80-200 was quite a bit sharper, and that was mid-day at what I bet was not wide open. I can go look at the pics, but I don't have a site to post as yet. I don't know what you are prepared to spend, but if you are looking at a price even close to the new 70-200 VR, I would give that some serious consideration. I haven't used the 70-200 VR, but the overwhelming opinion on it is fantastic as long as your not using a FF D3 or a TC. The 80-200 is great, fast, wonderful IQ, but it is heavy (relatively) without the benefits of VR.

Thanks for the response. My absolute maximum is $1,000 so the 70-200 is out the question, unfortunately. VR isn't all that important to me since I shoot on a tripod a lot. I'm not too concerned about the weight, I usually don't carry the camera for more than an hour at a time. I just hope it fits in my bag!

Did you see a noticeable difference in overall IQ between the two?

I don't think it will make any difference, but just to clarify I'm considering buying the non-AF-S version. Focus speed isn't too important to me so I have no need to speed up the already fast focus.

I assume you're talking about the latest two-ring version 80-200 AF ED. I've had both lenses (gave the 70-300 to my grandaughter but still have the 80-200.) and based on my experience, you will see a considerable improvement in IQ between the lenses. The 80-200 is sharper; has much better bokeh; is actually faster even without AFS; and of course, the f2.8 enables better shutter speeds at lower light. You really won't lose much in reach as my 70-300 was pretty soft out past 250mm. I had the D model 70-300 but it is optically pretty much the same as the G.

If you do need more reach, the Tamron SP AF 1.4x teleconverter or 1.4x Kenko teleplus Pro (basically identical) works quite well with very little image degradation. I use the Tamron 1.4x with mine. They run about $180 or so.

I had the good fortune to acquire a 70-200VR and except for the convenience of AFS and VR, the 80-200 images are almost indistinguishable on either my D70 or D200.

This was with my D70/80-200/1.4x TC; f8; 1/640th sec.; full zoom at 280mm:



Make sure the used one has the tripod mount and lens hood or those will cost you extra. KEH.com has several used ones for comparison.

http://www.keh.com/OnLineStore/ProductList.aspx?Mode=searchproducts&item=0&ActivateTOC2=false&ID=&Size=&BC=&BCC=&CC=&CCC=&BCL=&GBC=&GCC=&KW=nikon%2080-200

Hope this helps,

****

MJohnB said:

Hi Guys,

I've just started thinking about getting some new lens(es) again and
this time I want to get something telephoto. The only telephoto lens
I have right now is the plane old 70-300 G that I got with my N75 kit
in 2003. The lens works OK, but I would like it to be sharper and the
ability to use a faster aperture when the sun gets low.

I've been looking at the 80-200 AF-D and I have a few questions. I'm
not the type that sits and looks at every pixel looking for a
difference but I do appreciate high IQ. I normally shoot around
f/4.5-8 but would like to get faster when the sun starts to get low.
My main question is will I see a noticeable difference in IQ and
sharpness with the 80-200 compared to my 70-300? I am not at all
happy with the IQ of the 70-300 towards the long end and I'm hoping
the 80-200 will fix that. I'm not a pro (obviously) so would the
price be worth it for me? I primarily shoot for my own enjoyment but
occasionally get published.

I wasn't planning on purchasing so soon, but a used one just became
available for around $699. I really don't want to buy it online so
this might be the best chance I get.

Thanks.

Click to expand...

--
http://www.pbase.com/richardr
D200&D70&C-2100UZ&C-5050Z&C-7000Z&C-3000Z

the Nikon 80-200 F/2.8D ( the current 2 ring version) is the devils lens, It was the first "pro" glass I ever got and it forever tainted every other variable apreture zoom I had owened to that time or would ever try after that time. I had the 70-300G and the slightly better 70-300ED and the 80-200 put them to shame, in fact at the time it put every lens i owned to shame.

Be careful - be very careful, if you get the 80-200 you most likely will suddenly think allot less of your current lenses.

--
Nikon D200 and a 105 f/2D-DC
It's all I need

Thanks for the valuable input guys. I greatly appreciate it! I think I'm going to get it.

My last lens purchase was the 50mm f/1.8 which made me really dislike my other lenses. So, I already have the sickness!

And just to clarify, is $700 a decent price for a used 80-200 AF-D (version 4)? I'm buying it from a local store so I assume a warranty will be included, right?

Speaking of being careful...

There is a problem with this lens that requires a fairly expensive repair price tag. (I think it is anywhere from 250 to 350 dollars)

There is a ring around the lens connecting to the af/mf button (I think). It would SEEM to be very easy and cheap to fix, but members on this forum have complained about that problem, so be aware that it is quite possibly a problem waiting to happen.
It takes a little bit of the joy out of owning such a lens.

Even though I own the older push pull, I could understand someone going after the newer 70-300VR if they didn't need the lower light ability of the 80-200 f2.8.

It's a bit of a tough call which way to go. I would lean towards suggesting the newer 70-300VR even though I would go the other way based on what I need.

Guy Moscoso

gmosc said:

Speaking of being careful...

There is a problem with this lens that requires a fairly expensive
repair price tag. (I think it is anywhere from 250 to 350 dollars)
There is a ring around the lens connecting to the af/mf button (I
think). It would SEEM to be very easy and cheap to fix, but members
on this forum have complained about that problem, so be aware that it
is quite possibly a problem waiting to happen.
It takes a little bit of the joy out of owning such a lens.
Even though I own the older push pull, I could understand someone
going after the newer 70-300VR if they didn't need the lower light
ability of the 80-200 f2.8.
It's a bit of a tough call which way to go. I would lean towards
suggesting the newer 70-300VR even though I would go the other way
based on what I need.

Guy Moscoso

Click to expand...

I thought about getting the 70-300VR, but there doesn't seem to be a big enough improvement to warrant the money. I figure that if I'm going to get a new lens, I should get something that will actually get much better results. Also, I don't want to replace the lens later for something better. I'd rather save the effort and money and just get what I actually want now.

I've never bought a used lens, not that I wouldn't, but I understand that you ought to look at it closely for scratches or fungus before purchase. I'm also not sure of any sample variation in this lens, but if you don't have the chance to use it before you purchase, it would be a tough way to find out that it is soft or has front/back focus issues. I just saw a new one at B&H (I think) after a quick Google search, and it was $914.

The lens is at a reputable shop so I'm sure they inspect it before they put it up for sale. Regardless, I'll still look over it completely before I hand over any money.

I've been trying to find a photo of the problematic AF/MF switch, but I can't seem to. I always use the switch on my camera body (D80) so I'll never use the switch on the lens, correct?

MJohnB said:

I've been trying to find a photo of the problematic AF/MF switch, but
I can't seem to. I always use the switch on my camera body (D80) so
I'll never use the switch on the lens, correct?

Click to expand...

That is not correct. You have to move the switch on the lens to focus manually.

You can see the switch in the image of the lens on the Nikon Global web site (it's the little metal button visible in this photo at the bottom of the ring that you have to press, then rotate the ring from the "A" to the "M" position):



However, unlike the 180 f/2.8, for example, moving the switch on the lens is sufficient to ge into manual focus mode -- you do not also have to move the switch on the camera the way you do with the 180.
--
Jim Kaye

'I believe that the electronic image will be the next major advance. Such systems will have their own inherent and inescapable structural characteristics, and the artist and functional practitioner will again strive to comprehend and control them.' -- Ansel Adams, 1981

Thanks.

What does that switch near the front of the lens do? I can see one option is 'full' but I can't make out the other.

If I must use the AF/MF switch on the lens, what purpose does the switch on my camera serve? Any?

Jim Kaye said:

moving the switch on the
lens is sufficient to ge into manual focus mode -- you do not also
have to move the switch on the camera

Click to expand...

That other switch is a focus limiter, you can cut out the close focus distances so you save focusing time by having less travel.

MJohnB said:

Thanks.

Click to expand...

MJohnB said:

If I must use the AF/MF switch on the lens, what purpose does the
switch on my camera serve? Any?

Click to expand...

Yes, you need to disengage AF on the body and on the lens - the switch on the lens disengages the mechanical linkage, and unlocks the focus ring so that it can turn, but doesn't switch off the Af motor on the body.

Look for cracks on the AF/MF ring, just under where the silver button is. Most used ones I've seen have some signs of cracking starting. Once it's broken, it costs quite a lot to fix, as the lens has to be substantially disassembled - to replace a $10 part.

According to the lens reviews I've read the 70-300vr is much improved in IQ over the ED version which was a small improvement over the G. Except 300mm is pretty weak unless you stop down to f/11. 80-200 is better all over.

freddyNZ said:

freddyNZ said:

If I must use the AF/MF switch on the lens, what purpose does the
switch on my camera serve? Any?

Click to expand...

Yes, you need to disengage AF on the body and on the lens - the
switch on the lens disengages the mechanical linkage, and unlocks the
focus ring so that it can turn, but doesn't switch off the Af motor
on the body.

Click to expand...

Sorry, that is incorrect. On the 80-200 f/2.8 (two-ring version with tripod mount, anyway, which is the one I have), once you move the A/M switch on the lens to "M" you can focus it manually without having to change the C/S/M switch on the camera.

The C/S/M switch on the camera is for when you use lenses that do not have their own A/M switch (such as the 50/1.4 or 35/2, for examples). In general it does not have to be touched if the lens has its own A/M switch (or M/A-M switch on AF-S lenses). The only lens I know that is an exception to this (where you have to use both the A/M switch on the lens and the C/S/M switch on the camera to get into manual focus mode) is the 180 f/2.8. Others may know of other examples, but the currently listed 80-200 AF is not one of them.
--
Jim Kaye

'I believe that the electronic image will be the next major advance. Such systems will have their own inherent and inescapable structural characteristics, and the artist and functional practitioner will again strive to comprehend and control them.' -- Ansel Adams, 1981

My 80-200 is not focusing correctly on my D300. I just sent it to Nikon. I could not correct the focus issue with the D300 AF fine tune.

Being an older non-AFS lens(and zoom), I understand that these issues are arising with newer digital bodies. If you are not accurate focus picky and shoot at higher f-stops, you may not notice anything.

Mike

I agree with Pixelman, the 80-200 was my first pro zoom too and although it's now old (rotating front element), it delivers professional results. (of couse will trade in a second for 70-200 VR)

Good luck.
--
Art

I'm probably not going to offer up anything that hasn't been said...but I've got the latest 80-200AF-D, 70-300VR, and the 70-300G.

Like many, the "G" was the first tele zoom purchased. It is what it is...works okay from 100-200mm@F/11. I think the reason the G doesn't get beat up worse than it does is due to the fact it's dirt cheap. Optically, there's no comparison between it and the 80-200/2.8.

The comparison between the 70-300VR and the 80-200 is tough to make. In the overlapping ranges of both the 70-300 200mm@f/8 is a tad sharper than the 80-200 wide open...and it's there, and only there that the 70-300VR is "better". The two lenses have two different roles to play...the 70-300 is a great walk-around lens...light and the VR is nice to have. For doing inside sports (low light), the 80-200/2.8 is the one to have. Two different lenses for two different jobs...if I had to part with one or the other, the 70-300VR would be the one finding a new address. I'd rather have the better optics and speed.

To get back on point...I think you'll be very pleased with the 80-200/2.8. I wouldn't hesitate to buy another. It does deliver a certain "wow" factor when you first get it.

On my D80, the 80-200 front focuses (slightly) on the short end and back focuses (slightly) on the long end. Presents only a slight problem when working at minimum focusing distance, wide open. So if buying used, give it a good check and run it thru it's paces.

Good Luck.

Bill