G9 -- Manual Control Progression

StorrsCT

Active member
Messages
94
Reaction score
0
Location
US
First of all, thank you for your time in reading this. It's a bit lengthy, but possibly different from most "G9" posts?

I'm just starting out in the world of digital photography, and seem to have found my first point of real confusion.

I'm planning on heading down the path of dslr photography very soon, but after reading through my first book (Mastering Digital SLR Photography, D. Busch), I decided that a stepping stone might be best for me. I should also say that I very much wanted a "pocket" size camera as well, so that when I do make the jump to dslr, I would have something that I would carry regularly, so as to capture shots as often as possible, without any concern of what lenses I have with me, or a need for a more obtrusive tool and case.

So I decided that the G9 seemed to fit the bill. I based this on it's RAW capability, which would help me learn post-processing, it's manual adjustment abilities (this is my main concern in this post), and very much due to the images, that I've seen posted, that were taken with the G9.

What seems to have stone walled me, is the overwhelming concept of manual adjustments. I've used much older Canon SLR's before (70's era), and in some ways it seemed so simple. A twist here, a twist there, and I was off to take a very unimpressive picture in no time (I never said I was good with those either). But at least it felt quick, easy, and while haphazard experience wise, it felt like a simple progression of steps.

Now I'm using a histogram for the first time. The focus adjustment can display itself in feet, meters, and the like, where as before I didn't even look at the setting, but just twisted until it appeared correct in the view finder, as if I were turning a wheel on a car.

How does one approach the progression of manual control when so overwhelmed with all of the changes that have been formed into menu, and sub-menu settings?

For instance, say I have five seconds to adjust for a shot, and I want to go as manual as possible (if for the sake of learning, if nothing else). Where does one usually begin? ISO? Aperture? Manual focus, which feels much longer now, or skip that altogether if everything seems ok? When the seconds are counting down, I seem to be fumbling around, and not sure what setting to go after first.

Granted, I haven't described what type of shot I'm taking in this scenario. That is intentional. Skipping a step here, or adding one there, based on what type of scene is being captured, will of course have to come with experience, or when the camera is fully capable on auto setting (which, so far, seems almost like magic in a little box, to me).

As a general progression, what do you attack first, second, third, while adjusting your G9, or really any modern, semi-menu driven camera, while trying to go as "manual as possible" without running out of however much time you might have (let's exclude sports/action from the potential list, at least, as I doubt even the mighty G9 can tackle that like a dslr)?

Again, thank you for your consideration and review of my questions, as this seems to be the one thing I haven't found in posts, or the seemingly comprehensive "beginner" book, that I've read.
 
As far as modes go start with green box, work you through P, AE, all the way to manual.

Don't worry about the display at first. Just get used to the camera.

Enjoy the camera. It's a lot of fun!

jerryk.smugmug.com
 
As far as modes go start with green box, work you through P, AE, all
the way to manual.

Don't worry about the display at first. Just get used to the camera.

Enjoy the camera. It's a lot of fun!

jerryk.smugmug.com
Good advice. Maybe I should step back and just see what I can do with the auto settings, and start adjusting from there.

I suppose an audiophile would consider me the type that can't stop playing with the quasi-para's (for better or worse, it depends on the audiophile that you ask). To me, the more manual I can do, the better. That way the results feel more my own.

I also want to learn as much as possible in the next month and a half, as a friend is getting married, and while they have a professional shooting it, I'd like my own pictures to feel personal, and to be my first test of how much I can learn in a short time, with "just" a P&S.
 
Short answer: think about what you want to accomplish when shooting manual (or semi manual). If shooting action, use TV so you can try to freeze action. If depth of field is more important (to soften background and highlight subject, for instance) then start by setting AV and let the camera do the rest. Or, leave it in Auto or P and let the camera do the job, and see what you like the best. Above all, keep playing around, experiment and have a lot of fun. The beauty of digital is instant gratification and not having to spend a ton in developing pictures that you can now instantly delete.

( Go RU, Big East and UConn, in that order ;-) )
 
As far as modes go start with green box, work you through P, AE, all
the way to manual.

Don't worry about the display at first. Just get used to the camera.

Enjoy the camera. It's a lot of fun!

jerryk.smugmug.com
Good advice. Maybe I should step back and just see what I can do with
the auto settings, and start adjusting from there.

I suppose an audiophile would consider me the type that can't stop
playing with the quasi-para's (for better or worse, it depends on the
audiophile that you ask). To me, the more manual I can do, the
better. That way the results feel more my own.

I also want to learn as much as possible in the next month and a
half, as a friend is getting married, and while they have a
professional shooting it, I'd like my own pictures to feel personal,
and to be my first test of how much I can learn in a short time, with
"just" a P&S.
Since your coming from a film background one piece of advice would be to experiment. Unlike film the cost to experiment is nothing. You could take 500-600 shots in a morning and learn more about your g9 than you could in a 6 months with a film camera. By then you could start moving the dial toward M.

My guess is you will find that except for "special" situations, you will end up in AV mode the majority of the time. Add to that learning how to read the histogram and you will nail the exposure most of the time. And when the histogram says you blew the exposure there is always exposure compensation, or manual.

Take a few hundred shots a week and you will have the camera down in no time.

Anyway, have fun with the camera!

--
jerryk.smugmug.com
 
Old manual film cameras had both manual setting of exposure and focus. The dedicated shutter speed dial and aperture ring made setting quick and easy. The focusing ring and aids such as rangefinder or viewfinder screen really helped to see the point of sharp focus.

Modern compact cameras have autofocus and auto exposure. They are not designed for manual focus in any usable way. The G9 has a fairly usable manual mode for setting aperture and shutter speed. Its manual focus mode is fairly useless.

Even DSLR's are poor for manual focusing. The viewfinder screens are optimised for brightness and autofocus point selection.

I'd suggest trying the auto modes; the camera will get it right most of the time. Then progress to manual exposure if you still think it is needed.

Henry
 
That makes a lot of sense. Arty's post sort of made me realize that it's not about being an extension, to a camera, that takes pictures of celestial bodies, for pure analytical data, and your second post really clarified your first response for me.

Basically, go out there, start shooting, but with a creative purpose in mind, rather than trying to just optimally fit photons onto a sensor (nothing wrong with that in time, but only if it doesn't compromise the artistic intent).

You're absolutely right. I picked up a 4 gig card. Nothing to brag about compared to an aficionado's storage, but big enough to take lots of shots at a time, with basically every shot being free of charge, and with near instant gratification of being able to view them. With a 500 gig, secondary hard drive for image storage, I can take a lot of experimental shots and not delete the first one for a while, to see the progress.

Thank you both for making me realize it's the fact that digital allows for so much experimentation, compared to film, that I really should just start shooting, rather than worrying about every click, and the rest will fall into place.

Thank you both, very much.

(Go Huskies)
 
Old manual film cameras had both manual setting of exposure and
focus. The dedicated shutter speed dial and aperture ring made
setting quick and easy. The focusing ring and aids such as
rangefinder or viewfinder screen really helped to see the point of
sharp focus.

Modern compact cameras have autofocus and auto exposure. They are not
designed for manual focus in any usable way. The G9 has a fairly
usable manual mode for setting aperture and shutter speed. Its manual
focus mode is fairly useless.

Even DSLR's are poor for manual focusing. The viewfinder screens are
optimised for brightness and autofocus point selection.

I'd suggest trying the auto modes; the camera will get it right most
of the time. Then progress to manual exposure if you still think it
is needed.

Henry
Sorry to bump my post again, but I'm not alone in that surprise then!

I guess maybe I need to keep my meddling fingers off some things, and realize digital means just that. 0's and 1's have started being pretty capable of being decoded even by a "small" microchip, and manual isn't always the priority anymore.

I noticed that when I had the camera aimed near the TV by accident, it started zooming right in on faces, and doing a solid job (I had no idea a camera could focus on a 2d image at distance, on a 10 year old 30 inch tube tv), and watching the brackets track was rather cool indeed (it also seemed to focus well for other things, but that was more of a technological shock to me). When I tried to manually focus, I felt like there was a wide range (or maybe my contacts were a bit dry), where it all seemed moderately the same, but I knew that once seen on a monitor, that it wouldn't be the case.
 
Thank you both for making me realize it's the fact that digital
allows for so much experimentation, compared to film, that I really
should just start shooting, rather than worrying about every click,
and the rest will fall into place.

Thank you both, very much.

(Go Huskies)
The ability ot experiment is what I find so freeing. The other big difference is quick feedback. You try something and find out immediately if it worked.

--
jerryk.smugmug.com
 
I, too, use Av mode most of the time because there aren't very many choices of aperture, and there is much better exposure control when you let the camera choose from all the possible shutter speeds.

But as for your question, full manual control on a G9 or other P&S cameras is really only useful if you have more than a few seconds to get your shot. A suggestion that I have seen here many times for situations where you need to shoot at exactly the right moment is to set up exposure and focus beforehand by expeimenting a little, so that when the dog jumps through the burning hoop (or your son catches that ball, or whatever fast-changing scene you're trying to capture crops up), you don't need to touch a thing except for the shutter release. This can be done in Manual, Av, Tv, or P mode control, but if you can pre-focus and lock the focus the camera will be more responsive when you need to shoot RIGHT NOW.

Save your full-manual tweaking for the shots when you can take your time...

Freddo
 

Keyboard shortcuts

Back
Top