Raw shooters, what is your file saving strategy?

StrangeWorld

Forum Enthusiast
Messages
347
Reaction score
2
Location
AK, US
I started mullin' this over in my head and my first thought was, "well, you sure wouldn't want to get rid of the RAW file since that's your negative and there could very well could be a time in the future where you'd want to process it in a completely different way."

Then I thought, OK, you've processed the RAW file and saved it as a TIFF. I would assume that for the most part, this TIFF file, would from there on, be the jumping off point for any further PS work and resizing for output. So you wouldn't want to get rid of that either.

So then you've resized for the web and or output to a printer and then save as a JPG. Well, since you've already done that work, you sure wouldn't want to have to do it again so you wouldn't want to get rid of the JPG either.

This all leaves me thinking that I need to save EVERYTHING but I don't think that is what most of you folks do, so..........

1. Please share with me your file saving strategy.

2. And slightly OT, on the occasion that you DO decide to shoot JPEG from the get go, would it be wise to save the these files as TIFFs immediately after uploading so that you would then have a lossless file to do any further editing upon?
 
I shoot everything in RAW. If it takes me more than 30 minutes to post-process a picture, I often save that as well. All processed wedding images get saved separately.

My directory structure is broken up into chunks that completely fill a DVD. I shoot continuous numbering, so they're labeled something like 0001-0848, 0849-1586, etc. I don't keep pictures that are badly OOF or aren't ever going to be used.

I keep copies on my workstation's hard drive, on a portable hard drive and I burn a fresh set of DVD's every 6-7 years on Verbatim Datalife blanks which are kept in my basement in heavy Ziplock bags.

Sounds a bit excessive, but I have never accidentally lost an image once it got to my computer. I did have one of those portable hard drives crash on me after I had dumped my 2GB card a couple of times, but that was in the field before I got it to my computer.
 
1. I process my RAW files with RSE and save as a TIFF. At this point I don't think I'll be making any big changes in WB, tone or saturation later. Then I do crops and other corrections in Photoshop or Compupic. Then I save as a high quality JPG. Then I toss the RAW and TIFF files. I'm not averse to tweaking a JPG.

2. I don't see any point to routinely converting JPGs from the camera to TIFF unless you are going to make changes and pass the file to different programs.
--
Don't let the same dog bite you twice.
  • Chuck Berry
 
Shoot raw and save it to TIFF. I use external hardrive for photos only
 
I save all the raw files of the keepers, and make backups of those. Since most people's processing skills are constantly improving, it makes sense to me to keep all the raw files so I can go all the way back to square one if I want to with any photo.

I recently pulled some gems out of foldes that were 4 years old, and at the time they were shot, I didn't think I would do anything with them. But it's amazing how much you can learn with photoshop in that amount of time. If the file is blurry, I trash it, but if it's a good file and just not optimum, I usually save it.

I process a small number as TIFF, but usually just convert raw to jpg unless I'm making a very large print, or doing a job that requires a very large file size. When I convert to TIFF, I also save that file, but I have relatively few of them. You can always generate a new TIFF file from your raw, assuming you keep the raw.

Any photos that I process all the way, to use to display or print I keep backups of in addition to the raw files.

To add one dimension to the backup process, I keep one set of DVDs in a safe deposit box. Keeping all your backups at home can result in a total loss if you had a fire, or other disaster. We live in a hurricane prone area (Florida) so I want to know that there's an extra copy at the bank, just in case...
--

Gallery at: http://www.pbase.com/tim32225

 
I save keepers in both the original RAW file and a processed, printable JPG. I only save TIFFs from film scans, or when PP work on a particular DSLR image has been extensive. At the present, I'm saving all my files on CDR in binder pages.

Jack

--
http://jackandkelly.zenfolio.com/
 
I rename all of the RAW files during download, using LR, to a naming convention - YYMMDD_Description_Sequence.

Those that get selected are output to CS3 for processing. I save either a 16-bit TIFF or PSD file, in ProPhotoRGB (I go back and forth on which format I prefer).

When I need to output the image, I generate sharpened, 8-bit JPEGs, usually with different sharpening and profile conversions depending on the target. I save these in WEB, COSTCO, HP folders, based on their target.

When I get to 5GB of un-archived data (or when it's been a while and I get nervous), I copy them to a subfolder named YYYY.sequence, and burn to two sets of TY DVD's, verifying the burns. One set goes in my safe, one goes with my in-laws, 200 miles away, next time they visit.

Everything is also backed up weekly to an external hard-drive, and periodically to another hard drive I keep in my safe.
 
I made a script to download my photos from various cards:

From

DCIM/CANON234/IMG_3456.CR2

To folders made automatically for each shooting day.

photos/2008/2008-03/2008-03-01/img23456.cr2

After that, I rename shooting days to include a hint of subject:

photos/2008/2008-03/2008-03-01spring.blossoms/img23456.cr2

I delete ONLY the horribly ruined/useless shots, where even the image thumbnail shows it's at least 4 stops off in exposure, or out of focus, or it was a scratch shot for CWB. Everything else stays forever.

I process the RAWs of interest and save them to TIFF and/or JPEG or whatever else I think I need for my project. These don't overwrite the originals. They also get subject-matter names. Since I do panoramic photography, I may need several shots (or even 100) to build a single final post-processed image.

photos/2008/2008-03/2008-03-01spring.blossoms/violet-iris-macro.pto
photos/2008/2008-03/2008-03-01spring.blossoms/violet-iris-macro.xcf
photos/2008/2008-03/2008-03-01spring.blossoms/violet-iris-macro.jpg

If I want to save any notes of the shooting day, I put that in the daily folder too.

photos/2008/2008-03/2008-03-01spring.blossoms/notes.txt

At this point, it's time to ensure all of these files are safely backed up into my version-controlled database. Always have a backup plan that includes online, nearline, offline and offsite components. My most valuable images won't be lost if there was a mistake or a fire.

Some intermediate files used in the stitching process are junk, like remapping TIFF projections or layer-planning experiments, and I don't feel bad about getting rid of those. But this only happens AFTER I've made my version-control backups.

--
[ e d @ h a l l e y . c c ] http://www.halley.cc/pix/
 
I save the RAW for any shot I care about. A TIFF or JPG from it will only represent one possible conversion of that RAW data. Tossing the RAW is always a bad idea.

If you do not want to save the TIFFs from the RAWs, yet you do not want to lose the settings you used to get a special conversion from that RAW, you can save the processing recipe as a separate (and very tiny) file. In DPP, you do this by using EDIT -> “Save Recipe In File” with the RAW file selected. You can then give that recipe a file name so that you can open the RAW later and use that recipe to have the program generate that exact same conversion once again - or use it as a starting point.

So you don't really need to save those huge TIFFs. You can easily regenerate them IF you've saved the processing recipe.

And further, DPP automatically tries to save the latest changes you've made to any given recipe when you exit the program or navigate to a new directory. If you answer "YES" to the prompt, the program will save the latest recipe for that CR2 file into its metadata. This DOES NOT change the actual RAW data, but it does attach this latest recipe to that RAW file so that the next time you open that RAW, it will start off set to this "last used" recipe.

Both of those things are handy and can save you from needing to save any converted version of the RAW file. Just having the RAW file (with the recipe) is enough to let you regenerate the TIFF or JPG any time you want.

BUT: If you do what I often do, you may wish to convert and save as a 16 bit TIFF and then open that file in Photoshop. If you then make changes that you do not want to lose, you will need to save that TIFF and keep it. It's the record of your Photoshop work on that file.

I've always wanted to have an option in PS that let you save the history for a shot so that it was saved as an editable action. To me, the history should BE an action, in a sense. That way, even if you're not recording an action, all of your steps, as logged by the history, could be saved as if it was an action at any time you decided to do so. And you could name it. That way, you could theoretically do a long bit of processing of a file including tons of cloning and other tedious work, but just save all of that as a small file which was an action to let you get right back to where you were without needing to have saved the TIFF.

That way, you could fire up DPP (or whatever RAW processor you've used), open the CR2, load up the RAW processing recipe you've saved, make another 16 Bit TIFF, then, in Photoshop, open the "history/action" that you saved for that file, and run that. Now you'd be back to your final product without needing to have saved anything but the CR2 and two "recipes".

I guess you could always record an action every time you start working on a file and get that effect. But I'd like to be able to decide that a history was worth saving AFTER the fact :)

Anyhow, I NEVER get rid of my RAW files for photos I'm saving. And I save RAW processing recipes that I don't want to lose. I also save TIFFs that have had a lot of PS work done too.

It all adds up to a lot of drive space, but drives are cheap these days.

I also figure that someone could come up with a new RAW converter at any time which does a much better job with my old RAWs, so I'd hate to have tossed the RAWs only to find a RAW converter that does something magic a year later.

So I agree entirely with your first paragraph:
I started mullin' this over in my head and my first thought was,
"well, you sure wouldn't want to get rid of the RAW file since that's
your negative and there could very well could be a time in the future
where you'd want to process it in a completely different way."
Then I thought, OK, you've processed the RAW file and saved it as a
TIFF. I would assume that for the most part, this TIFF file, would
from there on, be the jumping off point for any further PS work and
resizing for output. So you wouldn't want to get rid of that either.
I could bear to get rid of the TIFF IF I hadn't already done irreplaceable PS work on it AND I had the RAW processing recipe that I used to create that TIFF.
So then you've resized for the web and or output to a printer and
then save as a JPG. Well, since you've already done that work, you
sure wouldn't want to have to do it again so you wouldn't want to get
rid of the JPG either.
I agree with saving that too if it will save you work in the future as well. These JPGs are fairly small. No reason to get rid of them either IMO :)
This all leaves me thinking that I need to save EVERYTHING but I
don't think that is what most of you folks do, so..........
I do, except for saving TIFFs that are nothing more than the file straight from the RAW converter. Again, IF you've saved the RAW and the RAW recipe, then you can create that same, identical TIFF any time you want. The key is to be sure to save that recipe along with the CR2 so you'll have it.
1. Please share with me your file saving strategy.

2. And slightly OT, on the occasion that you DO decide to shoot JPEG
from the get go, would it be wise to save the these files as TIFFs
immediately after uploading so that you would then have a lossless
file to do any further editing upon?
I would say that it's reasonable to convert your JPG to a TIFF for further processing IF you'll be saving intermediate versions along the way. That way, you don't end up compressing as a JPG over and over.

Hard drive space is cheap. So I tend to save some intermediate 16 Bit TIFFs and all sorts of files, particularly when working on a "special" photo.

--
Jim H.
 
Although my workflow has varied over the past few years as tools have evolved, here's my current process:

1. Import my images into Lightroom. I have the importer rename my files on the fly as they're dowloaded to that the date and time are in the filename itself.

2. Rename the newly imported image folders to reflect the place and date (or the event and date) of the images in each folder.

3. Cull the collection to remove obviously bad images. This includes selecting the best of a series of closely-related images, such as when trying to get focus, exposure or framing correct. Once I can compare the images closely and determine the best of a series, I keep only the best.

4. I make my image adjustments each image or to each image for which I have enough interest. Note that Lightroom saves your choice of settings either in the library itself, in a sidecar .XMP file or in the raw file if using .DNG format.

5. That's it, until I need to do local editing or print, post online, etc. There's no need to create a "final" copy in Lightroom's workflow because the settings are always applied "on the fly" to the original raw image while viewing the images in any of Lightroom's modules, including slideshow.

6. Only when I need use an image for something specific do I export from Lightroom. This includes printing (I like to print from Qimage instead of Lightroom). Also, a roundtrip to Photoshop creates a TIFF file that I then need to keep.

So, in the end, I have only my original raw files, with TIFF files only for images involving Photoshop or intended for printing (which I may keep if I'll be printing them again shortly but usually discard since it's easy enough to re-export).

Note that TIFF images are much larger than raw (since you've converted to a 3-channel/pixel format and may also have expanded the 14-bit data into 16-bits/channel). There's no point creating and holding onto them if all you're doing is global adjustments to your raw data as most raw converters do the equivalent of Lightroom and hold on to your conversion settings in a database or small file (LR, ACR, C1, DPP, Bibble all do this). TIFF images for specific use can then be selectively created in seconds from any image you wish without your entire image collection having to be archived in such a wasteful file format (the TIFF, anyway).

David
 
I edit the raw if I want to post or print, and I don't save the edit. I will go back and re-edit in the future if necessary. I keep only the raw file.

Regards,

Jon
I started mullin' this over in my head and my first thought was,
"well, you sure wouldn't want to get rid of the RAW file since that's
your negative and there could very well could be a time in the future
where you'd want to process it in a completely different way."

Then I thought, OK, you've processed the RAW file and saved it as a
TIFF. I would assume that for the most part, this TIFF file, would
from there on, be the jumping off point for any further PS work and
resizing for output. So you wouldn't want to get rid of that either.

So then you've resized for the web and or output to a printer and
then save as a JPG. Well, since you've already done that work, you
sure wouldn't want to have to do it again so you wouldn't want to get
rid of the JPG either.

This all leaves me thinking that I need to save EVERYTHING but I
don't think that is what most of you folks do, so..........

1. Please share with me your file saving strategy.

2. And slightly OT, on the occasion that you DO decide to shoot JPEG
from the get go, would it be wise to save the these files as TIFFs
immediately after uploading so that you would then have a lossless
file to do any further editing upon?
--
Galleries: http://www.pbase.com/jon_b
 
I do the followings:

1. Trash bad RAW
2. Convert RAW --> DNG
3. Import DNG into Lightroom. Then convert all to JPG
4. Open CS2 to modify the one to be enlarged .

Finally, back up all RAW, DNG, JPG.
 
3. Cull the collection to remove obviously bad images. This includes
selecting the best of a series of closely-related images, such as
when trying to get focus, exposure or framing correct. Once I can
compare the images closely and determine the best of a series, I keep
only the best.
There is often a situation where "a part of image A and a part of image B" makes a composite that's better than either A or B. Did that branch behind your subject catch some wind and get blurry? Merge the other shot's branch in. Did your nephew blink? Clone his open eyes from the other shot. And so on. Don't be too hasty in culling technically-good-but-not-best shots from your series!

--
[ e d @ h a l l e y . c c ] http://www.halley.cc/pix/
 
A big thank you to all responders. Lots of great ideas for me to think about and incorporate into my workflow.

Thanks again.
 
My workflow

-Shoot Raw

-Import into lightroom. When I do 4 things automatically happen
1-CR2 files are converted into DNG files (Digital Negatives)
2- Original CR2 files are backed up to an external hard drive for archiving

3- DNG files are organized on my hard drive and renamed with the date and the file name

4- Some non destructive automated raw processing happens to the DNG during import.

The beauty of lightroom is that it never actually changes your RAW files. You can go back to square one any time you like.

From my DNG files in lightroom I can export JPEGS for web or sharing or whatever. I dont even save the JPEG and rather make new ones from lightroom as needed.
 
The beauty of lightroom is that it never actually changes your RAW
files. You can go back to square one any time you like.
All the raw converers I know of work that way. You can go back to square one with raw no matter what program you are using for the conversion. That's the big advantage of raw and it's non-destructive. It's not just lightroom.

--

Gallery at: http://www.pbase.com/tim32225

 
Mine is:
1) convert CR2 on import to DNG
2) Save rawedits from Lightroom to DNG metadata

I do all my editing in Ligthroom. When I need a jpg or Tiff copy I convert them from DNG an the fly. Saves me the hassel of saving up 1000s of dupilcates!

Cheers
Rune
 
Although my workflow has varied over the past few years as tools have
evolved, here's my current process:
Wow! Just about exactly the same as my workflow.
1. Import my images into Lightroom. I have the importer rename my
files on the fly as they're dowloaded to that the date and time are
in the filename itself.

2. Rename the newly imported image folders to reflect the place and
date (or the event and date) of the images in each folder.

3. Cull the collection to remove obviously bad images. This includes
selecting the best of a series of closely-related images, such as
when trying to get focus, exposure or framing correct. Once I can
compare the images closely and determine the best of a series, I keep
only the best.

4. I make my image adjustments each image or to each image for which
I have enough interest. Note that Lightroom saves your choice of
settings either in the library itself, in a sidecar .XMP file or in
the raw file if using .DNG format.

5. That's it, until I need to do local editing or print, post online,
etc. There's no need to create a "final" copy in Lightroom's workflow
because the settings are always applied "on the fly" to the original
raw image while viewing the images in any of Lightroom's modules,
including slideshow.

6. Only when I need use an image for something specific do I export
from Lightroom. This includes printing (I like to print from Qimage
instead of Lightroom). Also, a roundtrip to Photoshop creates a TIFF
file that I then need to keep.
A lot of my images end up on the Web. So i'll export those as jpegs.
So, in the end, I have only my original raw files, with TIFF files
only for images involving Photoshop or intended for printing (which I
may keep if I'll be printing them again shortly but usually discard
since it's easy enough to re-export).

Note that TIFF images are much larger than raw (since you've
converted to a 3-channel/pixel format and may also have expanded the
14-bit data into 16-bits/channel). There's no point creating and
holding onto them if all you're doing is global adjustments to your
raw data as most raw converters do the equivalent of Lightroom and
hold on to your conversion settings in a database or small file (LR,
ACR, C1, DPP, Bibble all do this). TIFF images for specific use can
then be selectively created in seconds from any image you wish
without your entire image collection having to be archived in such a
wasteful file format (the TIFF, anyway).
Couldn't agree more.

If the raw file is the digital negative then an archived TIFF is like making a large-scale print from the negative, storing that in an archive and using it to make photocopies when you want another print.

--
Frank Hollis
Mass Spectroscopist in the UK
Can0n 2oD and 4oD
 

Keyboard shortcuts

Back
Top