Cheap radio slave for 20D,Vivitar + sunpak

I know some have had good luck with the ebay cheapies, and mine would be for fun anyway.

When I shoot our family gatherings, I use a Sunpak 383 on camera through a sync cord to Cannon 20D. Mostly for a little fill or sparkle in the eyes.

I use the Vivitar 285HV somewhere nearby for bounce off the ceiling and trigger it through wein peanut slave.

I'm happy with this set up except, all the other family members camera flashes triggering my slave. So I don't have the jucie when I need it.

I need help finding which model will work with my setup, and how it would all connect. I'm fine with non dedicated and no TTL. Links would be great !

Thanks, Greg

There has been some compatibility issues with Canon. I don't know why this is or why it is unique to Canon. If you trawl Ebay you will see radio slaves that are specifically for Canon.

11111111111

Thats specific to canon flashes, not cameras. With your setup you would be fine with just about any of the sets out there, i personally opted for the 16 channel studio types (not the cactus hotshoe type) and they have done pretty well for the amount I spent on em.

http://cgi.ebay.com/16-Channel-Wireless-Radio-Slave-Flash-Trigger-RD616-new_W0QQitemZ330199699247QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item330199699247

is the type though not the vendor. Mine were shipped out of NY and were to me in a couple of days.

As for connecting cables what kind of connectors are on your the viv and sunpak you have now? Lon over at http://flashzebra.com/ probably has everything you need to get started

BadtzMaru said:

Thats specific to canon flashes, not cameras. With your setup you
would be fine with just about any of the sets out there, i personally
opted for the 16 channel studio types (not the cactus hotshoe type)
and they have done pretty well for the amount I spent on em.

http://cgi.ebay.com/16-Channel-Wireless-Radio-Slave-Flash-Trigger-RD616-new_W0QQitemZ330199699247QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item330199699247

is the type though not the vendor. Mine were shipped out of NY and
were to me in a couple of days.

As for connecting cables what kind of connectors are on your the viv
and sunpak you have now? Lon over at http://flashzebra.com/ probably
has everything you need to get started

Click to expand...

Hi BadtzMaru,

So far I think this is what I need Catcus PT-04 from here http://www.gadgetinfinity.com/product.php?productid=16766&cat=274&page=1

If I understand it right, the receivers have a sync port as well as hot shoe firing. So if I didn't want to stack the hot shoe to the bottom of my flashes I could strap it on and use my current sync cords ? My cord for the Vivitar is male sync to camera side and male Vivitar specific sync to flash side. Same for the Sunpak except 1/8 mono plug or simillar.

My other concern at this time is I use the Sunpak in the hot shoe on camera for fill, if I put the sending unit there, where will I mount my flash ?

I think the sending unit has a sync port on it, but don't know if ti is for input or output ? If I can keep my flash in the hot shoe and trigger the sender from it's sync cord that may work if I can strap the sender to that flash somehow.

Any help on the logistics on connections would be apperciated.

Thanks, Greg

Thanks Nickoly,

It seems they have a newer version now V2s that solves the problems before with the Cannon flashes. It apparently solves issues of not firing the lower trigger voltages of the Vivitars and Sunpaks that I use.

I think I'm going for these

http://www.gadgetinfinity.com/product.php?productid=16766&cat=274&page=1

The V2s mounted to a lightstand, then with a heavy flash mounted on top are very dicey. The connection between the flimsy bracket and the radio trigger is pretty weak and tends to crack the body of the trigger. Also the flash ends up miles away from the centre of your brolly or softbox. The PC connection seems to be the way to go here.

I would go with the advice to check out Lon at flashzebra and read about these triggers at the Strobist.com flickr group - these guys have been using them since they were available and have even made extensive battery and antenna mod tutorials if you get into them and want more range.

Alan

Thanks Alan, I will check those places out.

I won't be using any stands or umbrellas, just setting the flash up on a shelf. I see what you're saying about weight stress on the plastic receiver though.

Greg