DLBlack
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Neat Idea!!!
Dave
Dave
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Fair enough, but how do you relate them to what you see in your frame?I really do not think it is complicated at all. The camera does all
the measurements for you.
Have you ever used an old fashioned 35mm film camera with a good viewfinder? (Excuse this rhetoric question) My point is, that I used to be perfectly able to judge DOF stopped down to F11 or F16 while taking landscape pictures. Little of it was ever done in very dim light I admit, but what is the percentage of frames one would take, where DOF is totally critical while it is very dark? I guess in such critical situations my workarounf has always been to determine near and far focus at open aperture and then choose required F-stop based on DOF scale on lens. Bummer we don't get those anymore on those fancy DA and DA* lenses.1. A button/lever that stops down the lens (Pentax still has that,
This is still not very good especially when in a dark situation andgreat!)
are stopping down to f8 or f11. All that happens is that the VF goes
dark and you can't judge what is and isn't in focus.
Seriously, I don't enjoy digital photography as much as I used to enjoy taking slides. Part of the reason is, that all this extra technology makes it actually really hard to focus on the essentials, as there are framing, focus point, f-stop, and exposure.Whilst FF would be a great benefit, and this is the main reason for
having one, IMO, it still can be difficult to judge DOF when stopped
down. Again, this is NOT to replace a DOF preview button, but as an
adjunct to it.
You would focus on a point and the camera then advises how much in front and behind that point would be in focus by giving you an actual distance in say cms, or what ever measurements you would like to use. Armed with that information you could determine whether you needed to use a smaller aperture size/higher aperture number and/or whether you need to focus further or closer to the subject.Fair enough, but how do you relate them to what you see in your frame?I really do not think it is complicated at all. The camera does all
the measurements for you.
Yes, I have, and the trouble is even with the biger brighter VF when stopping down it was still difficult to accurately judge to DOF due to the VF going dark. Yes, you could see the subject but to me it was still a little difficult to actually judge precisely what was and what wasn't in focus.Have you ever used an old fashioned 35mm film camera with a good1. A button/lever that stops down the lens (Pentax still has that,
This is still not very good especially when in a dark situation andgreat!)
are stopping down to f8 or f11. All that happens is that the VF goes
dark and you can't judge what is and isn't in focus.
viewfinder?
A flower in the undergrowth maybe, or a dark afternoon/morning, or where you are using a flash?(Excuse this rhetoric question) My point is, that I used
to be perfectly able to judge DOF stopped down to F11 or F16 while
taking landscape pictures. Little of it was ever done in very dim
light I admit, but what is the percentage of frames one would take,
where DOF is totally critical while it is very dark?
You really don't need an aperture ring as this can still be determined with a DA lens without an aperture ring. I do this with my DA14 prime lens as DOF markings for each aperture are on the lens. At the moment, to determine critical DOF, I regularly focus on the nearest point I require to be in focus, then the furthest point(assuming it is not a landscape where almost infinity is required) and then use an aperture that encompasses these distances with reference to the lens markings(this cannot be achieved on a zoom as they do not have these markings). With my new idea, the camera would calculate these distances for you with the focal length selected, focus distance and aperture selected so there would be no need for all this checking.I guess in such
critical situations my workarounf has always been to determine near
and far focus at open aperture and then choose required F-stop based
on DOF scale on lens. Bummer we don't get those anymore on those
fancy DA and DA* lenses.
I agree to a point. I loved taking slides on those big bright viewfinders, but I love the post processing and the freedom tha digital affords us now. I would never want to go back to the old system as I like to be able to control all aspects of photography from photo taking to post process and printing rather than leave it up to somebody else's interpretation, something I could never dream of with slide taking.Seriously, I don't enjoy digital photography as much as I used toWhilst FF would be a great benefit, and this is the main reason for
having one, IMO, it still can be difficult to judge DOF when stopped
down. Again, this is NOT to replace a DOF preview button, but as an
adjunct to it.
enjoy taking slides. Part of the reason is, that all this extra
technology makes it actually really hard to focus on the essentials,
as there are framing, focus point, f-stop, and exposure.
As I say, this is idea is not to replace a big bright viewfinder and a DOF preview button, but can be used in conjunction with these toolsI doubt, that your technology would be a good workaround for the lack
of a good viewfinder (FF). Being devils advocat here and not saying,
that you ridea isn't interesting.
I understand well where you want to go, but I don't think it would be practical in field use. Ok, if you have tripod all set up, have a measuring tape, and don't mind walking back and forth from camera to subject and back - fine, that might then work for you.You would focus on a point and the camera then advises how much inFair enough, but how do you relate them to what you see in your frame?
front and behind that point would be in focus by giving you an actual
distance in say cms, or what ever measurements you would like to use.
For that reason I never used a split prism in slide days and might have been spoiled by the really excellent VF of the LX which allowed me to easily determine focus. Now I have a Katz Eye in my DSLRs, as I have a hard time focussing my old lenses using the small viewfinder. Split prisms on the other hand do get totally black if you stop down. They also cover a much larger area of the smaller viewfinder (in relation) which renders the whole DOF preview buisiness with cropped sensors rather difficult.... even with the biger brighter VF when
stopping down it was still difficult to accurately judge to DOF due
to the VF going dark. Yes, you could see the subject but to me it was
still a little difficult to actually judge precisely what was and
what wasn't in focus.
Don't have a flash myself, but in dim light and stepped down a tripod is required anyways. With the old fashioned method of determining close and far focus point at open aperture and focussing using the middle between the two readings at appropriate f-stop is just fine and likely more accurate than the tape measure approach.A flower in the undergrowth maybe, or a dark afternoon/morning, or
where you are using a flash?
Guess you are right, some of the DA lenses still have some kind of markings. I only have a couple DA zooms though.You really don't need an aperture ring as this can still be
determined with a DA lens without an aperture ring. I do this with my
DA14 prime lens as DOF markings for each aperture are on the lens.
Here I have to agree, as post processing can be fun. Unfortunately it makes us sit in front of the PC even longer.... , but I love the post processing and the freedom tha
digital affords us now.
A firend of mine impressed me the other week by being the only one still showing slides at our annual slide show. The quality of his slides blew us all away, although I know, that this is actually nore related to the shortcomings of digital projection right now. Anything regarding printing I start to prefer a digital workflow.I would never want to go back to the old
system
If you read my post fully you would have seen this sentence:One issue is that depth of field is not absolute. In this digital
era, you would find that the images at both ends of the traditional
DOF scale do not appear very sharp if you pixel peep at 100% crop.
So for SOME people, their "acceptable" DOF range may be significant
smaller than others.
Luminous landscape had an article on this very issue:
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/Digital%20Focusing.shtml
So what constitutes acceptable sharpness and DOF could be an issue in
implementing this function.
Thanks Lance, day 4 has just startedGood on you, and good luck, mate. My thoughts are with you in this
difficult time!![]()
Ironically, because of my glasses I actually find viewfinders on old film SLRs hard to compose with as I can't get my eye close enough to see the edges of the frame.2. A REALLY good viewfinder (Pentax has decent viewfinders, but hey,
they are still not FF)
Regardless that lenses have differing focus rotation range, the lens can still be configured to "tell" the camera at what point of focus it is at. When you look at your lens you will see that the distances are marked on the focus ring and therefore these distances can be relayed to the camera. It would be more useful at closer focus distances where it is more critical to get DOF correct.Hi,
I thought about that too, but I believe the focus rotation range is
different in each lens, and it is not scaled to subject distance. The
camera only knows in which direction to turn the focus ring and it
checks if it has achieved focus by checking the contrast change. All
in all, I think the camera does not know the focus distance and
therefore cannot calculate the DoF.
--I think it would be saved in the Exif, would it not? There you cannot find but.
Am I wrong?
David
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http://www.dieda.extra.hu
Why not? I can judge that better than looking through a very dark VF after the DOF preview button is pressed. As I keep saying, it is NOT a replacement for the DOF preview button, but can be used in conjunction with it especially in those times where it is too dark to see the DOF via the DOF preview when shooting at f8 or f11 in a darkened enviroment.Why use numbers to describe DOF, when you can see it using the DOF
preview?
But that is like many functions of cameras, they all rely on the persons ability to some degree to be competent enough to use them. This is just another tool to be used in conjuction with the DOF preview butoon for added convenience and can possibly be made to do more than the DOF preview button be automatically setting the correct focus for a given aperture and subject to camera distance.It's practical usability relies on a persons ability to
judge distance with some degree of accuracy.
Seeing many of the positive responses here it would appear that others share my belief that a numerical readout would be a good idea.Having a numerical readout may be useful to some, but I think the
optical & digital preview works better.
Not all the time. As I pointed out previously, there are times when it is difficult to see the DOF via the DOF preview button as the VF goes too dark to accurately see DOF. This function would allow a reasonable idea of DOF.It's quick & you can actually
see where the zone of focus is.
I do not require the RAW button, but I can see by the many positive respondants here that they also would find it a useful feature.Personally it'd be a feature like the RAW button on the K10D. Sounds
more useful on paper than it is in reality.
Good point, Franka. I can't see why it isn't implemented with a modern DSLR.Well even the camera owner / user might not know about it , but even
back with film days this can be done and the camera that actually put
this to work is the Film 7 body from Minolta. It had an option to
display in Plain text your DOF ( with the setting the lens are )
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- Franka -