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FZ18-Yellow Spots at High ISO settings?

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Elizabeth Klisiewicz

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I've read about this problem on this forum, but I never experienced it until last night when I took photos in a dim church concert at ISO 1600. I did not want to raise it so high but had no choice.

Why does this happen? Short of not using high ISO, how do you get rid of the yellow spots in a photo?

Here is a sample that is very typical of what I am seeing:



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Gallery is online at eklisiewicz.smugmug.com
Nikon D70s, Fuji Finepix F30
 
Hi Elizabeth,

Not sure why it happens...something to do with there being less blue pixels/photosites on the sensor, resulting in the processor getting a little confused as it trys to find the correct colour from neighbouring red and green pixels, especially in lowlight conditions.... which somehow results in yellow splotches....there have been some threads posted about the issue recently.....they are hard to remove, because of the above dilema.....Can you post a larger picture....so we can see if it is possible to help in some way...
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Cheers

Rik
 
Are you talking about on the church walls? I see some yellow there, but maybe at a larger size, that would be the "splotches?" I wasn't sure. Here's a photo I took just this morning of Dr. Noize on stage at ISO 1600. I looked, and thought maybe there were some yellow splotches on his face?



So I ran it through Noise Ninja & sharpening on CS3:



I don't see any splotches there, but maybe I was imagining them in the first place? Maybe you should show them at 100% for more clarity?
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Just cruisin' ...



EffZeeThirty (Got the Gull), EffZeeEighteen, TeeZeeThree
 
I saw some of the same artifacts in the pictures I took with my F31fd, but they were much less obvious. For the most part, in low light, the Panny cannot touch the Fuji. I think I will stick to using my Panny in good light and at low ISO settings.

Or as some reviewers have said, use RAW and avoid the in-camera noise settings.
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Gallery is online at eklisiewicz.smugmug.com
Nikon D70s, Fuji Finepix F30
 
Those photos I posted were taken at 294mm equivalent, quite a way out of the F31d's zoom reach. There ARE times when the smaller-sensor camera with the fantastic zoom can win the low-light race. But like I say, suit yourself.
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Just cruisin' ...



EffZeeThirty (Got the Gull), EffZeeEighteen, TeeZeeThree
 
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i've seen quite a bit of these blotches at iso 800 and up too.
camera seems great outdoors - indoors is another question.

noise ninja and noiseware seem to do nothing to them.

have a look at this

http://picasaweb.google.com/heinzk41/FZ18
 
I have seen it when I used 1600 and just 3 candles lit the scene. I wonder whether it just occurs when the light is critically low rather than just low
 
To see the original sized photo, take the file name and substitute an O for the L.

John, I see yellow in both your before and after photos.

Elizabeth
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Gallery is online at eklisiewicz.smugmug.com
Nikon D70s, Fuji Finepix F30
 
Elizabeth Klisiewicz said:
I saw some of the same artifacts in the pictures I took with my
F31fd, but they were much less obvious. For the most part, in low
light, the Panny cannot touch the Fuji. I think I will stick to using
my Panny in good light and at low ISO settings.

Or as some reviewers have said, use RAW and avoid the in-camera noise
settings.
--
Gallery is online at eklisiewicz.smugmug.com
Nikon D70s, Fuji Finepix F30
Click to expand...
I will check out your larger picture..thanks

Rik
 
Noise Ninja and Noiseware do nothing for me either. Would love to know how to eliminate the yellow noise artifacts.

Am going to try some Raw shooting in low light this evening to see the results.
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Gallery is online at eklisiewicz.smugmug.com
Nikon D70s, Fuji Finepix F30
 
Hey John, was that shot of yours a crop? I see the yellow in both of them too, but was surprised at how much the rest of the noise cleaned up in the second one.
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A possible solution for the yellow blotches was suggested in an earlier thread here:

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1033&message=25160774

Hope that helps.

Cheers,
Ian
Elizabeth Klisiewicz said:
Noise Ninja and Noiseware do nothing for me either. Would love to
know how to eliminate the yellow noise artifacts.

Am going to try some Raw shooting in low light this evening to see
the results.
--
Gallery is online at eklisiewicz.smugmug.com
Nikon D70s, Fuji Finepix F30
Click to expand...
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Ianperegian
 
Indeed, I looked at the 100% crop, and did see some faint yellow spots on the subject's face. There are other bigger spots in that image, reflections of yellow spotlights, and the mirrors reflecting them are not clean either. But I said there did seem to be spots on the guy's face when viewed closely; I then wondered if they would show up in a print. So I made an 8X10 print using my Epson 2200 printer, and on the print, I couldn't see any yellow spots; I think an 8X10 is smaller than a 100% crop, which might explain that.

I just finished going through all the shots I took at that performance, and found that really only the ISO 1600 shots showed much need for NR at all, anything at 800 or below was clean enough to keep "as is;" so if you still wanted to gain the advantage of the long zoom and control your undesireable artifacts, I think just setting the "ISO MAX" parameter to 800 should do the trick. Or shoot everything in RAW, as you say. Good luck!
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Just cruisin' ...



EffZeeThirty (Got the Gull), EffZeeEighteen, TeeZeeThree
 
What is C1 4 Beta? I have no idea what that means.
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Click on the link in the linked page.
Sherm
 
I see now that it's Capture One Version Four Beta and I have dl'ed a copy. In looking at this problem, aka blue channel noise, I see that some of the fixes are rather elaborate and I have no time to do all this PP'ing if it means messing around with color modes and channels.
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Gallery is online at eklisiewicz.smugmug.com
Nikon D70s, Fuji Finepix F30
 
Incandescent light, and, even more so, candle light, is very weak in its
blue content. So the camera has to boost its blue channel a lot
to gain something that resembles white balance. That also boosts
the noise. Where the noise is positive it will add blue and where it
is negative it will add yellow.

It seems the yellow splotches are more visible, whether because the
camera kills the blue blotches more vigorously or whether the WB is
still tending towards warm, I'm not sure.

It's also the question what dye the sensor uses for the colour filter array.
The sensitivity between R, G and B response is an engineering tradeoff.
A more sensitive blue will help indoors, but may lead to overload when
shooting a blue sky in daylight. I've seen some terrible blooming/PF from
some Fujis so maybe it's a tradeoff they did to do better indoors?
normsmith said:
I have seen it when I used 1600 and just 3 candles lit the scene. I
wonder whether it just occurs when the light is critically low rather
than just low
Click to expand...
Just my two oere
Erik from Sweden

When posting photos for comment, please give basic settings and/or leave EXIF intact.

 
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