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Lighting Diagram for Beginners - Advanced

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Larry Berman

Larry Berman

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Here's a modification of a diagram I came across on the internet.



Light #1 is the main light at 45 degree angle to the subject
Reflector is #2 which can easily be replaced with a second light

The ratio of light from #1 and #2 should be different. Light #1 should be the main light and be more powerful. The reflector should be the fill for a more pleasing portrait. That's why the professional studio flash power packs allow independent incremental settings for all attached heads. I'd suggest starting with ratios of 1:2 or 1:3 and see what strikes you. But never balance them so the light on both sides of the face is equal. That makes for boring pictures.

Light #3 is pointed at the background. It's more preferable to let the background be uniformly wrinkled for a more natural and pleasing portrait.

Light #4 is a hair light or rim light. it separates the hair from the background making the portrait look more natural and life like. The rim light should be elevated to look down on the hair. You don't want to do the entire head, just the edge that meets the background in camera.

All of this is open to personal interpretation and artist judgements but it'll give people a starting point when considering where to place the lights.--Larry Berman
http://BermanGraphics.com
 
I didn't feel comfortable with using someone elses diagram even though I modified it so I created my own diagram last night:



. I've create a page for my web site that lists the information for each position:
http://bermangraphics.com/coolpix/lighting_diagram.htm
Larry Berman said:
Light #1 is the main light at 45 degree angle to the subject
Reflector is #2 which can easily be replaced with a second light
The ratio of light from #1 and #2 should be different. Light #1
should be the main light and be more powerful. The reflector should
be the fill for a more pleasing portrait. That's why the
professional studio flash power packs allow independent incremental
settings for all attached heads. I'd suggest starting with ratios
of 1:2 or 1:3 and see what strikes you. But never balance them so
the light on both sides of the face is equal. That makes for boring
pictures.
Light #3 is pointed at the background. It's more preferable to let
the background be uniformly wrinkled for a more natural and
pleasing portrait.
Light #4 is a hair light or rim light. it separates the hair from
the background making the portrait look more natural and life like.
The rim light should be elevated to look down on the hair. You
don't want to do the entire head, just the edge that meets the
background in camera.
All of this is open to personal interpretation and artist
judgements but it'll give people a starting point when considering
where to place the lights.
Click to expand...
--Larry Berman http://BermanGraphics.com
 
Larry Berman said:


. I've
create a page for my web site that lists the information for each
position:
http://bermangraphics.com/coolpix/lighting_diagram.htm
Larry Berman said:
Light #1 is the main light at 45 degree angle to the subject
Reflector is #2 which can easily be replaced with a second light
The ratio of light from #1 and #2 should be different. Light #1
should be the main light and be more powerful. The reflector should
be the fill for a more pleasing portrait. That's why the
professional studio flash power packs allow independent incremental
settings for all attached heads. I'd suggest starting with ratios
of 1:2 or 1:3 and see what strikes you. But never balance them so
the light on both sides of the face is equal. That makes for boring
pictures.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
Larry:

You did a great service posting your diagram. At Brooks Institute this was their basic beginning portrait lighting setup, using that single ( #1) light for key with the reflector serving as the fill. This is a bullet proof lighting for beginners. Over the years and hundreds of rolls of shooting portraits, I used a single light with a reflector fill--most often by choice. Multiple lighting, especially for Key-fill, often creates problems & present s an unrealistic lighting pattern unless done with understanding. For years I did several school contract pics with a one-light & reflector fill. To me and others, the end product looked more professionally done than the normal double strobe lighting so typical of school work. . . two lights on either side (often set for equal output) and showing two catchlights in the eyes!! YOU are right on with your suggestion about using that second light for fill. Either set the strobes for ratio, or better yet just use a single strobe key light & a bounce reflector as a fill--simple, easy & it looks right. Most important, you prevent the flat face lighting look!!! So, use the setup as per your diagram, with the background & hairlight as optional & you are in business. It's what I use, It is what I taught in my classes, & it is simple yet effective.
Fred
Larry Berman said:
Larry Berman said:
Light #3 is pointed at the background. It's more preferable to let
the background be uniformly wrinkled for a more natural and
pleasing portrait.
Light #4 is a hair light or rim light. it separates the hair from
the background making the portrait look more natural and life like.
The rim light should be elevated to look down on the hair. You
don't want to do the entire head, just the edge that meets the
background in camera.
All of this is open to personal interpretation and artist
judgements but it'll give people a starting point when considering
where to place the lights.
Click to expand...
--
Larry Berman
http://BermanGraphics.com
Click to expand...
 
I use the 48 inch white/gold reversible reflector from:
http://www.visualdepartures.com/flxfill1.html

There are quite a few companies that manufacturer similar reflectors. You can start with a few pieces of white fome cor. or wrap a white sheet around a piece of plywood (or paint it white). There's a number of things you can do as to not invest a lot of money. The advantage of the commercially made reflectors is that they travel easily, collapsing to about a quarter of their expanded size.

But in answer to your question, go with the largest size reflector you can afford that won't get inn the way when open. I use the 48 inch but if I had to purchase it again, I'd probably get a 60 inch.

Larry Berman
John F. Gerhardt said:
Any recommendations for the reflector? How big must it be?
Click to expand...
--Larry Berman http://BermanGraphics.com
 
Larry Berman said:
Light #3 is pointed at the background. It's more preferable to let
the background be uniformly wrinkled for a more natural and
pleasing portrait.
Click to expand...
Can you expand on the "wrinkled" background effect? Does Light #3 cause more or less uniformity?

Can you give some approximate distance for the light/reflector and background to subject?

Thanks!!!
 
One of the neatest portable backgrounds I ever saw was called "Background in a Bag".
http://www.photekusa.com/

You just stuffed this large picec of fabric into a small stuff sack and pulled it out to use it. Never needed ironing. Remember what we're looking for here is an interesting background, not a plain white wall.

As far as the lighting on the background. You're shooting digital, so experiment. Film's cheap.... They're all personal decisions anyway.

Larry Berman
cc6000 said:
cc6000 said:
Light #3 is pointed at the background. It's more preferable to let
the background be uniformly wrinkled for a more natural and
pleasing portrait.
Click to expand...
Can you expand on the "wrinkled" background effect? Does Light #3
cause more or less uniformity?
Can you give some approximate distance for the light/reflector and
background to subject?
Click to expand...
--Larry Berman http://BermanGraphics.com
 
The "Background in a Bag" looks really neat!

However, at $183.50... it is going to be difficult to get that pass the boss (my wife).

Any other alternative background materials for a weekend amateur?

CC
Larry Berman said:
As far as the lighting on the background. You're shooting digital,
so experiment. Film's cheap.... They're all personal decisions
anyway.

Larry Berman
cc6000 said:
Larry Berman said:
Light #3 is pointed at the background. It's more preferable to let
the background be uniformly wrinkled for a more natural and
pleasing portrait.
Click to expand...
Can you expand on the "wrinkled" background effect? Does Light #3
cause more or less uniformity?
Can you give some approximate distance for the light/reflector and
background to subject?
Click to expand...
--
Larry Berman
http://BermanGraphics.com
Click to expand...
 
CC,

Try the local fabric store. I did pretty good at the local fabric store. I need to get better with making it more interesting (ie with folds/wrinkles). I made a backdrop holder from pvc piping and two pieces of particle board as bases (I can send you the instructions if you want).

Thank you Larry again for the diagram. I'm working on the one light reflector combination now. I just need to get a longer sync cord/hot shoe to move my flash away from me.

Ashok
Here's an example of what I picked up for $4.00 at the fabric store:


cc6000 said:
However, at $183.50... it is going to be difficult to get that pass
the boss (my wife).

Any other alternative background materials for a weekend amateur?

CC
Larry Berman said:
As far as the lighting on the background. You're shooting digital,
so experiment. Film's cheap.... They're all personal decisions
anyway.

Larry Berman
cc6000 said:
cc6000 said:
Light #3 is pointed at the background. It's more preferable to let
the background be uniformly wrinkled for a more natural and
pleasing portrait.
Click to expand...
Can you expand on the "wrinkled" background effect? Does Light #3
cause more or less uniformity?
Can you give some approximate distance for the light/reflector and
background to subject?
Click to expand...
--
Larry Berman
http://BermanGraphics.com
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
Larry,

Thank you so much for taking your time to put together this great setup for us.

Which direction is the model facing? Or which direction should the model face?

Thanks again,

Marc
Larry Berman said:
Here's a modification of a diagram I came across on the internet.



Light #1 is the main light at 45 degree angle to the subject
Reflector is #2 which can easily be replaced with a second light
The ratio of light from #1 and #2 should be different. Light #1
should be the main light and be more powerful. The reflector should
be the fill for a more pleasing portrait. That's why the
professional studio flash power packs allow independent incremental
settings for all attached heads. I'd suggest starting with ratios
of 1:2 or 1:3 and see what strikes you. But never balance them so
the light on both sides of the face is equal. That makes for boring
pictures.
Light #3 is pointed at the background. It's more preferable to let
the background be uniformly wrinkled for a more natural and
pleasing portrait.
Light #4 is a hair light or rim light. it separates the hair from
the background making the portrait look more natural and life like.
The rim light should be elevated to look down on the hair. You
don't want to do the entire head, just the edge that meets the
background in camera.
All of this is open to personal interpretation and artist
judgements but it'll give people a starting point when considering
where to place the lights.
--
Larry Berman
http://BermanGraphics.com
Click to expand...
 
Thanks for the tip. I was looking for some background fabric that is not just a solid color. I will look more on the web and at the local fabric store. The PVC pipe idea is great!

CC
Ashok Rai said:
CC,
Try the local fabric store. I did pretty good at the local fabric
store. I need to get better with making it more interesting (ie
with folds/wrinkles). I made a backdrop holder from pvc piping and
two pieces of particle board as bases (I can send you the
instructions if you want).
Thank you Larry again for the diagram. I'm working on the one
light reflector combination now. I just need to get a longer sync
cord/hot shoe to move my flash away from me.

Ashok
Here's an example of what I picked up for $4.00 at the fabric store:

Click to expand...
 
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