Problem with PC Sync terminal on the S5

starplan

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Hi

Has anybody had any problems with the PC Sync terminal on the S5. When using in the studio I have to keep my thumb on the lead going into the PC Sync terminal on the camera to fire the flashes.

I have tried two leads one of which was brand new and the other which I had no problems with when using my S2.

Have I got a faulty camera or is this a problem with the S5
 
The standard PC sync terminal - as implemented on many cameras - is just not very good at holding on to sync cords that are put under any strain.

As you move around, and the sync cord rotates in it's socket it tends to work it's way out. I've just never had good luck with it when connecting to studio lights.

The hot shoe by contrast, being designed to hold onto a heavy strobe, is a lot better at this job, and my choice for syncing to studio strobes. After first trying wired solutions, I have slowly migrated over to the wireless controllers, choosing the older 4 channel wireless wizzard for it's simplicity. I keep a transmitter on every camera in the studio, so that I don't have to make changes while shooting. 4 recievers, fire upto 7 monolights, as one reciever connects to a white lightning control module.
 
Thanks for your reply John

Is there any other way I can get around this without spending over £200 for the wireless transmitter.

By the way I have 3 500watt Bowens heads
 
If you need to stick with the wired approach I would say to use coiled cords, as they may take a little bit of the strain off of the connection, and add a secondary securement to hold strain off of the connection, be it with a bracket, or something rigged up with a thin strip of gaffers tape.

Another reason to think wireless btw - no chance of those trigger currents adding up to hurt the camera (certainly less an issue with quality modern lights). Of course you can sync to just one light and trigger the others off of that.

I believe that wein nade an Infrared trigger to mount in the hot shoe and trigger strobes that way - not sure how reliable it is.
 
IR trigger would be cheaper - no need for a reciever on the lights presuming that IR reciever built into your heads.

Limitations of course relate to the line of sight issue. I'm guessing that radio is more reliable, but in studio, relatively dim lighting, controllable "line of sight" you might find the IR unit adequate.
 
Try pinching the pc cord terminal end with a needle nose plier to make it fit tighter only pinch the outer circle part slightly it might help.
 
I was going to try pinching the contacts on the cord to make it a bit tighter.

I cant understand though that I had no problems with the S2 and now if I dont keep my thumb on the end of the cord going into the S5 the flash will just not fire.

Even keeping my thumb on the cord sometimes the flash does not fire. I use the coiled cords but the connection still seems very loose to me. Its a real pain and I still think there may be a problem with the pc sync terminal on the S5.

Anybody else out there tried the sync terminal with the cord?
 
Yes I have used a cord on S5 (worked fine)I use Paramount flash cords only! I like having pc terminal as a backup. Going from vertical to horizontal with cords is a pain, try a screw in cord.

However in the long run the cords and terminal are to fussy.

Personally I went with the Wein ssr jr infrared transmitter and receiver which is great and works every time but in public others can trigger strobes. Another system is micro synch which has separate channels. If your shooting professionally think about spending a little more to get the better unit the duty cycle and reliability and separate channels are worth it.
Alan
 
Yes that is the one I use. I also have the receiver that plugs into the power pack. I use photogenic powerpacks. Your lights are different than mine so I would ask someone who is knowledgable about your lights and this transmitter to make sure they are compatible. Check out micro synch also.
Alan
 
Why not use the on board camera flash to trigger the strobes?
I used to do this with the S2.
Didn't work with the S3 because of the dttl system.
Should work with the S5 if you set the flash system to Manual...
Reduce flash output to minimum.

Attached a card in front of the flash on an angle to bounce the light away from the subject.

I haven't tried it with my S5 yet...

Bernie
 

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