Tripod Help

I ended up getting the Gitzo 2530 and the BH-55 head with the lever release clamp. I also tried the Acratech head but wasn't impressed. The BH-55 adds weight to the tripod no doubt.

The M20 weighs 1.3 pounds while the BH-55 weighs 1.9 pounds. Not sure if you can tell much of a difference bewtween the two with a 1/2 pound difference.

Height wise.. the Markins is slightly taller coming in at 4 inches while the BH-55 is 3.65 inches. A lower profile.

The reason I like the RRS lever clamp is that I know when it is tight and closed. With the screw knob I would always be checking...did I tighten it or did I not.. but that is me and my bad memory.

The other thing I noticed is the engraving on the panning base.. On the markins the markings are at every 30 while the BH-55 is every 15.

If I read the specs correctly the Markins can handle 99 pounds while the BH-55 can only handle 50 pounds.

The looks of the BH-55 is quite nice.. I was very impressed.

The G1410 has a 4" base and the poor little M10 looks puny, although it does a fine job. I guess the 4 series was designed to accomodate 100mm video bowls. No worry ab ut anything overhanging the base!



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Regards,
Neil

ClaudioG:

1. If, you are going to get a Tripod, you certainly don't want to get just any kind or a flimsy one and you also don't want to go "stingy" when getting a decent Tripod. If, you do a google search, you will find the Kirk BH-1, is regarded highly among some of the world's top professional photographers.

Here are some quick articles, I just searched for while writing this Re to you, just now, just to get you started----but, there are thousands about the Kirk and all give favorable reviews:

http://www.naturephotographers.net/je0901-1.html
http://www.michaelclarkphoto.com/accessories.html
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Kirk-BH-1-Ballhead-Review.aspx

2. Now, for tripod legs, it depends on how you will use your Tripod, such as light carry on hikes or in a home or studio. I wanted one for easy carry (but not having to bend, sit, or kneel to use it) on the back of my Lowepro Mini Trekker AW, or hand carry in my Manfrotto MBAG 70, either by hand or over my shoulder, and so went with the Manfrotto 3001BN, these were all purchased at B&H and they can be searched even now while they are closed, online at that site. The Manfrotto 3001BN Tripod Legs, cost me around $100 dollars & work perfectly with the Kirk BH-1; and, yes, a good Ball Head is the expensive part here, but you really need it as the articles and your online research will prove to you. A listing of my gear is in my profile as to just what I have, and you are free to check the Kirk Body plates and stuff I use while browsing either the Kirk or B&H sites to determine whether any of this type stuff will work for you...

3. Here, is also an article on Tripods by Kenrockwell, on some of his current thoughts regarding use of Tripods: http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/digital-killed-my-tripod.htm
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BRJR....(My cameras & lenses are listed in my profile)

Thank you BRJR it look like the Kirk B1 is also a very good ballhead.
I read the reviews with interest.

Ken Rockwell thoughts on tripods are interesting and very provocative.

From a practical point of view I do not like the noise at ISO 1600 or 800 on the d200, even after processing the image with noise ninja.

I am not a good enough photographer to hand hold the d200 even with the 70-200 vr @ f2.8 at night and get acceptably sharp photos.

I agree with him that small apertures on digital cameras soften the image. IMO f11 is ok on the 70-200, f16 is pushing it. The 18-70 dx is good at f8

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ClaudioG

...and I LOVE it.

IMO, it's a big improvement from the Kirk BH-3 that I also have...not that I mean that BH-3 is a terrible ballhead, it's just that the Z1 is better.

It's lighter than you think...yet it doesn't feel cheap. And it's really, really stable. It's hard to put it in words but I feel that my equipment is more stable with the Z1 than the BH-3 (although that's not really a fair comparison)

It takes a while to get used to Z1's knob where there seems no "end" to its lock knob...you can turn and turn to keep it tighter and tighter...but you really need to turn it just a little to get a tight grip on the ball.

With its aspherical head, there's no way your equipment would suddenly plop to the side. This happened with my BH-3 a lot more than I want to admit. On the flip side, it becomes cumbersome to have the head on its side because you tend to need to loosen the grip more as you get to the side--you better invest on a camera body L-plate, brutha! You'd want one anyway. This could also be an annoyance or an advantage when setting up with a Wimberley Sidekick...although I wouldn't really know since I don't have one...and probably not going to invest in one in the near future...I need a bigger lens first...but I digress...

If there's one thing I don't like about the Z1, it's the panning lock: it has a small lever instead of the ribbed knob found in most ballheads (including the B1). This makes it annoying when using on a tripod leg whose base is LARGER than the base of the Z1 (like the Gitzo 3530s that I pair it with)...so the lever can only make a half-turn at best. It would have been a good idea if you can reposition the lever like the one found in RRS BH-25 locking lever. Whoever came up with this at Arca-Swiss should be burned alive.

With that much b*tching about the Z1, I would still choose it over the competition.

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http://www.subtleimages.com/blog/

KR's tripod tome only makes any sense at all if you also buy into and follow his complete shooting regimen. It can only work as a package. For example, you need VR. He does most of his shooting with an 18-200VR, and it is that lens that precipitated his tripod killer page. If you want to shoot wider than 70mm and you don't want to use an 18-200VR for any reason, you are SOL until some major lens updating happens.

As you said, I'm not so thrilled with ISO 800+ shooting that I want to make a habit of it, even when I can do better with a tripod.

I found his page thought provoking, but I didn't turn around and sell my tripod

(as I recall, he did give a terse disclaimer for night shooting, where I think he may sometimes cheat and get the old legs out)

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Regards,
Neil

1. I believe many of the photographers in these Forums are those from the "old film days" and others with concepts that still date back to around 2000-2003, and earlier, and don't realize that today's technology has made a lot of what they preach about photography somewhat in conflict and even outright obsolete in today's digital world, and that this is becoming more and more the situation, with each new release of an advanced DSLR Body and modern lens (irrespectively of cost). They knock people like Kenrockwell, but what he says is mostly true, just that many prefer to take his words and reasonings completely out of context ... in the case with what he says about Tripods, for example, he even challenges them to perform the quite simple, fast test, as he discusses, so they can see for themselves---- I don't believe one can make their point of view simpler than that... so, my hat goes off to this man, for at least trying ..

2. You still, have time to do some online research of your own for the gear you need; I certainly would never rely solely on what you get in these forums, or any one source, but you do get opinions as to what others like and what is or has worked for them, and this can be of tremendous assistance. Even so, I have always done a lot of research before purchasing the things, I end up getting, and with our high-speed broadband internet access, this is very easy, now days... and fun, as well..

Here are a few more references, that might be of interest (again, just found them, as I am typing this Re):
http://www.scottkelbybooks.com/gearguide/

This one is old, but still some good basic discussion on choosing a Tripod, of course it's off on prices, since was posted around 2000: http://www.epinions.com/elec-review-4A43-17E31753-39681759-prod5

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BRJR....(My cameras & lenses are listed in my profile)

I have an old Arca-Swiss B1 Monoball that had the sticking problem. I put it in a box and forgot about it. Recently I dug it out and sent a message to Arca-Swiss about it. They put me in touch with their USA rep who did a warranty repair (in spite of it being out of the warranty period). Now it is a dream to use. Very smooth.

I also have a Markins M20 which is satisfactory, but nowhere near the quality of the Arca-Swiss. Same can be said of the Kirk BH-3 (now gathering dust).

The only downside to the B1 is that it is a bit larger and heavier than the M20. The Z1 is about the same weight as the M20.

If you are right-handed, get a left-hand ball head. Right hand on camera, left hand on ball head controls.

I've not used a RRS ball head, but there is a reason for that. They have the ball lock knob on one side, and the pan lock knob on the other. So, you always have to reach around to work one of them. From using a ball head in the field I know that would bug me.

I just sold a Gitzo 1325 carbon fiber tripod. It is an excellent tripod, except the legs rotate. I replaced it with the new GT3530LSV which has anti-rotation legs and is lighter weight but stronger. This is the tripod I would recommend.

I shoot mostly landscape with a D2x and lenses from 12mm to 200mm.
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Robin Casady
http://www.robincasady.com/Photo/index.html

Robin:

Thanks, for this info, as I too had considered RRS, prior to going with the Kirk System for both my Ball Head and plates for my D80 and D200 Bodies with Battery Grips. Overall, I am well pleased with what I have, but do have friends, similarly using RRS, and they too are quite satisfied.

And, that is what I was trying to imply in this Thread; that is, in the final analysis, each of us will have to consider all the info, we have and make that selection based on what we feel is going to work best for us, based on our individual shooting preferences and even our cosmetic preferences for the equipment we select....

That warranty repair, you mention, is a very good example of how I tend to fine that the "reputable" companies tend to go far, in their attempts to satisfy us with both their products and their service, and in today's competitive market, they are finding more and more the importance of this, as seen in this Thread alone, we do have many sources and products to select from ------ and, in fact, all are really "quality products", for the most part....
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BRJR....(My cameras & lenses are listed in my profile)

hawkmanva said:

I ended up getting the Gitzo 2530 and the BH-55 head with the lever
release clamp. I also tried the Acratech head but wasn't impressed.
The BH-55 adds weight to the tripod no doubt.

The M20 weighs 1.3 pounds while the BH-55 weighs 1.9 pounds. Not
sure if you can tell much of a difference bewtween the two with a
1/2 pound difference.

Height wise.. the Markins is slightly taller coming in at 4 inches
while the BH-55 is 3.65 inches. A lower profile.

The reason I like the RRS lever clamp is that I know when it is
tight and closed. With the screw knob I would always be
checking...did I tighten it or did I not.. but that is me and my
bad memory.

The other thing I noticed is the engraving on the panning base.. On
the markins the markings are at every 30 while the BH-55 is every
15.

If I read the specs correctly the Markins can handle 99 pounds
while the BH-55 can only handle 50 pounds.

The looks of the BH-55 is quite nice.. I was very impressed.

Click to expand...

Is the base of the BH-55 head bigger than the top of the 2530? Does it overhang?
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dagored
http://dagored.smugmug.com Save $5 by going to my site.

'The camera doesn't make a bit of difference. All of them can record what you are seeing. But, you have to SEE.' Ernst Haas, 1985

Thank again everybody, It is becoming clear that AS, Markins, Kirk, RRS are all excellent devices and probably I would be just fine with any of them.

Markins has a strong proponent in Neal who really likes his ballhead and bought more than one. BRJR likes his Kirk very much. Robin seems to have used the AS-b1 as far as it worked ok, went to the markins and then returned to the B1 once fixed. Robin, I gather you like the AS a little bit more than the markins. Am I correct? I am intrigued by the non-spherical design, because at timea I am a bit clumsy and if this ball head will prevent my long lens from smashing to the tripod, this is a big plus as far as you dont pay a big price in term of usability. I can picture this in my mind but I really would like to try and have a feel for it. Unfortunately I now live in a small town in south carolina and I dont have access to a decent camera store.

As far as the legs go I am gravitating around the Gitzo 3530. what is the difference between the plain 3530 and the 3530LSV other than the absece of a center column?

Would anybody consider going with Induro?

Thanks
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ClaudioG

It over hangs the base by about 1/8" but at first I couldnt tell since the base of the tripod and the base of the ballhead are both black.

I have nothing to contribute as I am shopping
for support too. I would just like to thank all of
the experts who are providing a wealth of
informed info on this (too me) quite complex
subject.

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Lou

http://loutent.smugmug.com/

Claudio,

I want to address your concerns about ballhead flop. I've never had a ballhead flop, after almost 3 years with the M10. And trust me, If I could have I would have

The reason I have never had a flop is that I never tension my head so loose that it could flop. I don't have any reason to run the head so loose that it could flop.

Banana Chips said that he sometimes runs the head intentionally very loose, and I would assume so loose that a spherical head would flop. He uses the nature of the elliptical ball to "catch" his lens if he lets go.

I think I mentioned that I use a Sidekick. If I need to pan moving subjects, especially with a long lens, I use my sidekick, which is why I don't run my ballhead loose enough to flop. If you are shooting a landscape, you don't need to work the head that loosely.

Banana Chips is trying to make his head simulate the frictionless movement of a sidekcik as best he can, without the additional expense of a Sidekick. He's using the variable tendency of the elliptical ball to act as a safety stop.

Does this make sense? I don't think the issue is safety and flopping, as much as using the elliptical ball to do something you would not do with a spherical ball; a feature.

Regards,
Neil

You can get the Benro C-228 from B&H for $200 and the Benro KJ-1 ballhead from Ebay for about $125. It has 95% of the functionality of the $900 combos for $325. The difference would almost get you a 10.5 fisheye or 2 SB-800 flashes or a Tokina 12-24 or 60 micro and a 50 f1.4.

The C-228 from B&H is like the older Gitzo G1228 that goes for over $400 used on Ebay. B&H is the only place that has this model as far as I know.

People talk trash about the KJ-1 head, but the way I look at it I could afford to find out for myself for $125. And in my opinion the talk really was just trash.

By the way, I sold my 80's Gitzo Weekend Performance on Ebay for $149 and my 80's Bogen 3021 with 3030 head for $263. The Benro is more than a match for those two in quality and fits my current needs better.

I use a Markins M10 with a Uniloc 1600 to support a D200 and lenses up to a Sigma 400mm F5.6 and a Nikon 200mm F4 AFD micro with no problems. I am told the Uniloc 1600 can take a 500mm F4 lens, as can the Markins M10, though it might be pushing it a bit. I think a quality ball head is well worth buying if you have the money and use your gear often. As for the tripod, well the Uniloc is fairly cheap, but IMO is stable and far more useful than the far more expensive Gitzo tripods. It is especially good for general nature and macro photography. The expensive Gitzos are especially good for supporting big glass where stability is crucial.

rsjoberg said:

People talk trash about the KJ-1 head, but the way I look at it I
could afford to find out for myself for $125. And in my opinion the
talk really was just trash.

Click to expand...

There was an online review of a Benro ball head and the photos showed quite clearly that the internal construction was poor. For example, the locking mechanism consisted of a screw thread digging in to an aluminium surface. Even my cheapo Slik had better engineering.

The review was on this site:

http://www.tomwebsterphoto.com/Essays/articles.htm

I can only assume he was threatened with legal action. Pity because the photos told all.

In my opinion, absolute trash, but I already said that. I'm glad I tried the KJ-1 myself instead of listening to that hit piece.

And that's all I have to say about that.

ClaudioG:

1. Also, don't over look the "All-New Ball-Head Snap Collars" for the Kirk Ball Heads. Snaps in place is less than a second, is easy to remove or just leave in place. I use one, it just stays in place unless I remove it to occasionally wipe a little lubricant of the Ball Head and otherwise check to see if it's clean and functioning properly (of course, it always is, so this is simply a preventive maintenance check, as we should be doing with all our photographic equipment, or any equipment period).

2. Reason, I only have one Tripod, is that my Nikon Bodies are the more advanced DSLRs and with most of my lenses, and not only the VR ones, I have come to the same conclusions that Kenrockwell has reported, in his article: "Digital Killed My Tripod". If I was a professional working in a studio, mostly microphotography, and other specialized areas, more than just casually, this could well be different------ and, in circumstances where I needed more than one Ball Head, my selection would still be the Kirk BH-1 or BH-3, depending on how I needed to use it...

(But, in fact, all the suggestions, presented in this Thread are good ones (IMO), and one will probably Not go wrong with any of them...)

Good luck, on your final selection.....
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BRJR....(My cameras & lenses are listed in my profile)

rsjoberg said:

In my opinion, absolute trash, but I already said that. I'm glad I
tried the KJ-1 myself instead of listening to that hit piece.

And that's all I have to say about that.

Click to expand...

You can't argue with the pictures. I've disassembled a Slik 800 Pro ball head and seen how it should be done.