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PT. Magu Airshow
- Thread starter Al Ross
- Start date
Bones Cobb
Forum Enthusiast
Some pointers and pics on my gallery pages. Hope that helps. If you have questions ask.
--
'Image quality is not the product of the machine, but the person who directs the machine, and there are no limits to imagination and expression.' Ansel Adams
Find a link for my Photoshop Custom Brush Tutorial below
http://garypalamara.com/Gallery.htm
--
'Image quality is not the product of the machine, but the person who directs the machine, and there are no limits to imagination and expression.' Ansel Adams
Find a link for my Photoshop Custom Brush Tutorial below
http://garypalamara.com/Gallery.htm
Ron van Elst
Leading Member
no text
LyleBurnett
Forum Enthusiast
If you are shooting propeller aircraft get your shutter speed down to about 200 to 250 to get motion on the propeller blades. Any faster and it makes them look stopped.
Here's one I took last week at the Tyndall airshow.
Jets not a problem:
Have fun and take plenty of memory cards.
Look forward to any posts after the show.
lyle
--
Http: sprockit.smugmug.com
Here's one I took last week at the Tyndall airshow.
Jets not a problem:
Have fun and take plenty of memory cards.
Look forward to any posts after the show.
lyle
--
Http: sprockit.smugmug.com
Only with p&s camera. I'm renting a 100-400 for the weekend. I have no idea on the best way to use such a nice lens but figured for $30 it would not be too bad of a lesson (unless I break the darn thing). Since digital photos are "free" I thought I would just spin the dials and click away and see what happens. The Thunderbirds are suppose to fly and I have never seen them so that all by itself will be a treat.
al
al
LyleBurnett
Forum Enthusiast
It was a "chamber of commerce" perfect day. (lol)
I was using a Canon 30D with 300mm 4lIS and a circular polarizer. The polarizer is a conributor, but I also post processed to get the colors the way I wanted.
Thanks for the nice comments and good shooting.
--
Http: sprockit.smugmug.com
I was using a Canon 30D with 300mm 4lIS and a circular polarizer. The polarizer is a conributor, but I also post processed to get the colors the way I wanted.
Thanks for the nice comments and good shooting.
--
Http: sprockit.smugmug.com
Bones Cobb
Forum Enthusiast
The 100-400 with the 30d is a perfect combination for shooting most air shows. Having a picture perfect day also helps but you should expect to do at least some post processing of the keepers to make the colors pop. If you're lucky, you'll have the sun at your back and everything will be front lit.
With the 30d, don't be afraid to raise the ISO. As long as you have plenty of light, noise shouldn't be a problem. With a higher ISO you can keep the shutter speeds up and still operate somewhere near the middle of the F-stop range.
Exposure is the trickiest sometimes to judge. I never use Program or Auto etc. Take a few test shots and then when you find a good exposure setting, stick with it until something changes.
This will be my first year of air shows where I'll be shooting totally RAW and I can't wait for the first show. If you're into RAW, then it will allow you to fine tune some of the settings in post. Good luck and let's see some shots.
--
'Image quality is not the product of the machine, but the person who directs the machine, and there are no limits to imagination and expression.' Ansel Adams
Find a link for my Photoshop Custom Brush Tutorial below
http://garypalamara.com/Gallery.htm
With the 30d, don't be afraid to raise the ISO. As long as you have plenty of light, noise shouldn't be a problem. With a higher ISO you can keep the shutter speeds up and still operate somewhere near the middle of the F-stop range.
Exposure is the trickiest sometimes to judge. I never use Program or Auto etc. Take a few test shots and then when you find a good exposure setting, stick with it until something changes.
This will be my first year of air shows where I'll be shooting totally RAW and I can't wait for the first show. If you're into RAW, then it will allow you to fine tune some of the settings in post. Good luck and let's see some shots.
--
'Image quality is not the product of the machine, but the person who directs the machine, and there are no limits to imagination and expression.' Ansel Adams
Find a link for my Photoshop Custom Brush Tutorial below
http://garypalamara.com/Gallery.htm
You will be amazed at how much a Polarizer helps bring out the sky color. If you don't have a polarizer, at least make sure you're using a lens hood. If you don't have a lens hood, I posted a link to a UK site with paper lens hoods you can print/cut yourself. It's better than lens flare in your images.
Also, on propeller aircraft, you'll want to switch to Tv (shutter priority) and shoot at 1/160th, 1/200th. 1/250th is about the limit. At 1/320th you will get too much "stop", not enough motion.
You might not think of this... but shots of the aircraft approaching are far more interesting than shots of the aircraft departing, unless it's a jet with afterburners going, I do my best to get the shot of the aircraft approaching. With that in mind, finding the best spot to shoot at an airshow is important. Also, you should account for the position of the sun.
Oh... and if you normally turn all of your AF points off except for the center, turn them all back on when the aircraft are in the air. You won't "lose" an aircraft so easy.
Don't forget to bring something wide angle for static shots. Frankly, I think it's worth having a 2nd body with a wide angle lens. For some, that might be asking too much, but I think an airshow is like a baseball game. You have some stuff going on at a distance, and some stuff going on close up.
Good luck.
--
'In 1983, the game of golf had a firm grip on the waist of my boxers and was administering the death wedgie. I had a dose of the atomic yips and after missing 10 of 11 cuts by a single shot, I was ready to quit and apply for a job as a wringer-outer for a one-armed window cleaner.'
Also, on propeller aircraft, you'll want to switch to Tv (shutter priority) and shoot at 1/160th, 1/200th. 1/250th is about the limit. At 1/320th you will get too much "stop", not enough motion.
You might not think of this... but shots of the aircraft approaching are far more interesting than shots of the aircraft departing, unless it's a jet with afterburners going, I do my best to get the shot of the aircraft approaching. With that in mind, finding the best spot to shoot at an airshow is important. Also, you should account for the position of the sun.
Oh... and if you normally turn all of your AF points off except for the center, turn them all back on when the aircraft are in the air. You won't "lose" an aircraft so easy.
Don't forget to bring something wide angle for static shots. Frankly, I think it's worth having a 2nd body with a wide angle lens. For some, that might be asking too much, but I think an airshow is like a baseball game. You have some stuff going on at a distance, and some stuff going on close up.
Good luck.
--
'In 1983, the game of golf had a firm grip on the waist of my boxers and was administering the death wedgie. I had a dose of the atomic yips and after missing 10 of 11 cuts by a single shot, I was ready to quit and apply for a job as a wringer-outer for a one-armed window cleaner.'
- David Feherty
Hi Gary,
Thank you for the tips and encouragement. I thought that I would shoot RAW this time. Like I say am am an absolute beginner so I'm fine with a bunch of mistakes and since no one is paying for these pictures it is fine with me if only a few or none come out. It will be fun just being there and giving it a try.
I really enjoyed your air show pictures, really nice!
al
Thank you for the tips and encouragement. I thought that I would shoot RAW this time. Like I say am am an absolute beginner so I'm fine with a bunch of mistakes and since no one is paying for these pictures it is fine with me if only a few or none come out. It will be fun just being there and giving it a try.
I really enjoyed your air show pictures, really nice!
al
Hockeynut,
Thank you for the tips, I'm going to make up a little "cheat sheet" so I can refer to them. I'll also have a 10-22 along (thinking about buying one of these if it works out ok) hopefully that will work for the wide angle shoots. I don't have a polarizer, hmm, I wonder if they rent those? The 100-400 comes with a lens hood so that may help.
Well hopefully I'll get a couple of "keepers" and figure out how to convert from RAW to whatever and then learn how to post process and then learn how to post to the forum and then.......this is beginning to sound like to much effort, maybe I'll just stay on the couch!
Thanks Again,
al
Thank you for the tips, I'm going to make up a little "cheat sheet" so I can refer to them. I'll also have a 10-22 along (thinking about buying one of these if it works out ok) hopefully that will work for the wide angle shoots. I don't have a polarizer, hmm, I wonder if they rent those? The 100-400 comes with a lens hood so that may help.
Well hopefully I'll get a couple of "keepers" and figure out how to convert from RAW to whatever and then learn how to post process and then learn how to post to the forum and then.......this is beginning to sound like to much effort, maybe I'll just stay on the couch!
Thanks Again,
al
Bones Cobb
Forum Enthusiast
Al, thanks for the nice words about the website. It's been an obsession for the past year or two.
I never seem to get tired of shooting air shows. Even though the planes are moving relatively fast, you can pan with them to catch the action. Don't forget that the 100-400 has two IS modes. Mode 1 is allows IS to be used in both horizontal and vertical directions. Mode 2 shuts off the horizontal IS and only works in the verticle mode only. That will allow you to pan with the action. In practice, this works most of the time, but sometimes, depending upon your angle it doesn't have much affect either way.
A polerizer does work well, and if you're renting the lens, perhaps they'll throw one in for you to use.
Also, if you're new to Air shows, took for show center and set up as close to there as you can. Show center is where all of the acts "center" their routines around. It's also generally where the show announcer position is and where the VIP seats are, so get as close as you can to there.
Anyway, good luck with the shoot. Bring lots of memory cards and have fun. All the best
--
'Image quality is not the product of the machine, but the person who directs the machine, and there are no limits to imagination and expression.' Ansel Adams
Find a link for my Photoshop Custom Brush Tutorial below
http://garypalamara.com/Gallery.htm
I never seem to get tired of shooting air shows. Even though the planes are moving relatively fast, you can pan with them to catch the action. Don't forget that the 100-400 has two IS modes. Mode 1 is allows IS to be used in both horizontal and vertical directions. Mode 2 shuts off the horizontal IS and only works in the verticle mode only. That will allow you to pan with the action. In practice, this works most of the time, but sometimes, depending upon your angle it doesn't have much affect either way.
A polerizer does work well, and if you're renting the lens, perhaps they'll throw one in for you to use.
Also, if you're new to Air shows, took for show center and set up as close to there as you can. Show center is where all of the acts "center" their routines around. It's also generally where the show announcer position is and where the VIP seats are, so get as close as you can to there.
Anyway, good luck with the shoot. Bring lots of memory cards and have fun. All the best
--
'Image quality is not the product of the machine, but the person who directs the machine, and there are no limits to imagination and expression.' Ansel Adams
Find a link for my Photoshop Custom Brush Tutorial below
http://garypalamara.com/Gallery.htm
LyleBurnett
Forum Enthusiast
I have the 10-22 and it does a really nice job. Here's a couple of examples.
--
Http: sprockit.smugmug.com
--
Http: sprockit.smugmug.com
LyleBurnett
Forum Enthusiast
We really did have a beautiful sky that day and if I tried to be careful to get the sun, highlights and shadows all where I thought it would work best I got good results. Also I was shooting RAW which gives a lot of flexibility with the post processing.
Another thought I remembered was the difficulty my friend (has a Canon 1D) and I had in getting the fast moving shots to focus. He was using a 1.4x converter and his 70-200. We both had a number of shots that we missed the optimum on because focus was trying to catch up. Some suggest you pick a spot and pre-focus. We found if you can get on target early that was our best procedure.
lyle
--
Http: sprockit.smugmug.com
Another thought I remembered was the difficulty my friend (has a Canon 1D) and I had in getting the fast moving shots to focus. He was using a 1.4x converter and his 70-200. We both had a number of shots that we missed the optimum on because focus was trying to catch up. Some suggest you pick a spot and pre-focus. We found if you can get on target early that was our best procedure.
lyle
--
Http: sprockit.smugmug.com
Bones Cobb
Forum Enthusiast
I find that using the Servo focus mode works well for tracking planes. Once you focus, continue to hold your finger half way depressed and the camera will continually track the focus for you. If it's a hazy day or cloudy though, there might not be enough contrast between the sky and some of those gray planes for your camera to focus quickly, so pre-focusing may work better.
As far as converting RAW images, Canon's Digital Photo Pro works very well and it came with your camera. So, you can practice using that. If you are going to shoot RAW, I wouldn't bother also shooting a Jpeg frame along with it. If you're like me, you may have a 10-1 printing ratio so you only need to convert the ones you want to keep. Shooting RAW only will give you more shots per card. With my 30d I get 90+ RAW frames from every 1 gig card. Boy, when I think of the old days, that would have been at least 3 each 36 shot rolls. How times have changed.
Several other things.
You don't have to shoot at 5 or even 3 frames per second to get good air show action. Keeping your camera in single shot mode and deliberately picking your shots works fine. You'll shoot less, but hopefully each one will be a keeper.
I only use the 5 fpm mode when I know that I'm trying to capture some really high speed action, like a cross-over break. Other than that, I go with either single shot or at most 3 fpm motor drive.
Hope all that helps.
--
'Image quality is not the product of the machine, but the person who directs the machine, and there are no limits to imagination and expression.' Ansel Adams
Find a link for my Photoshop Custom Brush Tutorial below
http://garypalamara.com/Gallery.htm
As far as converting RAW images, Canon's Digital Photo Pro works very well and it came with your camera. So, you can practice using that. If you are going to shoot RAW, I wouldn't bother also shooting a Jpeg frame along with it. If you're like me, you may have a 10-1 printing ratio so you only need to convert the ones you want to keep. Shooting RAW only will give you more shots per card. With my 30d I get 90+ RAW frames from every 1 gig card. Boy, when I think of the old days, that would have been at least 3 each 36 shot rolls. How times have changed.
Several other things.
You don't have to shoot at 5 or even 3 frames per second to get good air show action. Keeping your camera in single shot mode and deliberately picking your shots works fine. You'll shoot less, but hopefully each one will be a keeper.
I only use the 5 fpm mode when I know that I'm trying to capture some really high speed action, like a cross-over break. Other than that, I go with either single shot or at most 3 fpm motor drive.
Hope all that helps.
--
'Image quality is not the product of the machine, but the person who directs the machine, and there are no limits to imagination and expression.' Ansel Adams
Find a link for my Photoshop Custom Brush Tutorial below
http://garypalamara.com/Gallery.htm
Hi Gary,
Thank you for the additional tips, I was wondering about the servo mode. I looked at the camera manual last night and was thinking they might be something to try. I am going to shoot just RAW and figure what I get is going to be ok. If nothing else the static displays should come out. The F-22 is supposed to make an appearence (so rumor says) that would be cool to see. Come Monday would it be ok to contact you for some additional assistance?
al
Thank you for the additional tips, I was wondering about the servo mode. I looked at the camera manual last night and was thinking they might be something to try. I am going to shoot just RAW and figure what I get is going to be ok. If nothing else the static displays should come out. The F-22 is supposed to make an appearence (so rumor says) that would be cool to see. Come Monday would it be ok to contact you for some additional assistance?
al
Bones Cobb
Forum Enthusiast
Al,
no problem about contacting me. You'll find my email on the website. Servo, works pretty well. Panning with the action isn't too much of a problem. You may want to keep a loose framing if you're not comfortable with shooting air shows. Better to have a clean shot and have to crop it slightly later, rather than half a plane.
I think the Thunderbirds will be at your air show, so look for them to fly around 3pm or so. If you get there early, that will give you plenty of time to practice your technique with the somewhat slower moving prop planes.
The only tricky part of air shows is exposure and being out in the sun, it's hard to see your review screen sometimes on the back of the camera. Depending on conditions, I try to find a good setting and stay with that until something changes.
Yes, and the static displays are also great to shoot too. Any further help I can give just ask.
--
'Image quality is not the product of the machine, but the person who directs the machine, and there are no limits to imagination and expression.' Ansel Adams
Find a link for my Photoshop Custom Brush Tutorial below
http://garypalamara.com/Gallery.htm
no problem about contacting me. You'll find my email on the website. Servo, works pretty well. Panning with the action isn't too much of a problem. You may want to keep a loose framing if you're not comfortable with shooting air shows. Better to have a clean shot and have to crop it slightly later, rather than half a plane.
I think the Thunderbirds will be at your air show, so look for them to fly around 3pm or so. If you get there early, that will give you plenty of time to practice your technique with the somewhat slower moving prop planes.
The only tricky part of air shows is exposure and being out in the sun, it's hard to see your review screen sometimes on the back of the camera. Depending on conditions, I try to find a good setting and stay with that until something changes.
Yes, and the static displays are also great to shoot too. Any further help I can give just ask.
--
'Image quality is not the product of the machine, but the person who directs the machine, and there are no limits to imagination and expression.' Ansel Adams
Find a link for my Photoshop Custom Brush Tutorial below
http://garypalamara.com/Gallery.htm
Bones Cobb
Forum Enthusiast
If you've never used a Polarizer before, you should know that they work best when the lens is pointed at a right angle to the sun. So, if the sun is directly behind you, or worse yet, in front of you, they will not work very well. So, if you can't get a 77mm polarizer for the 100-400 lens, don't sweat it too much.
If you are following the action, all over the sky, sometimes a polarizer is more of a pain than a help... IMO.
--
'Image quality is not the product of the machine, but the person who directs the machine, and there are no limits to imagination and expression.' Ansel Adams
Find a link for my Photoshop Custom Brush Tutorial below
http://garypalamara.com/Gallery.htm
If you are following the action, all over the sky, sometimes a polarizer is more of a pain than a help... IMO.
--
'Image quality is not the product of the machine, but the person who directs the machine, and there are no limits to imagination and expression.' Ansel Adams
Find a link for my Photoshop Custom Brush Tutorial below
http://garypalamara.com/Gallery.htm
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