A better night shot

Okay,

This was taken in the P mode with 1/2 I think. The ISO was set to 100. Let me know what you think.



Thanks. Let me know if you have any sugestions, can it turn out much better than this?

Also, all of my night pics seem to be very red, can I change this?

Chris

Chris Riviere said:

Okay,
This was taken in the P mode with 1/2 I think. The ISO was set to
100. Let me know what you think.



Thanks. Let me know if you have any sugestions, can it turn out
much better than this?

Also, all of my night pics seem to be very red, can I change this?

Chris

Click to expand...

Hi Chris,

I'm not sure about the red color. You may need to go to manual mode to get more than 1/2 sec. shutter. Were you able to get a focus lock on anything ? If so, where was your focus point ? I would try to leave on auto maybe, and focus on the lights on the far buildings. Was this handheld, or braced with something ?
Greg

The picture shows camera movement and you should really try using a tripod. If you have a night picture with more lights in it, the red isn't quite so noticeable. You scene has sparse lighting and part of the blur problem might be that the camera couldn't find a focus point. Aim at a light source.

Night photography can be quite stunning, but a lot of practice is needed and sometimes trial and error is the only way to accomplish it.

Hello chris,

you should use a tripod and longer exposure than 1/2 second. The photo is underexposed and it is not correct for white balance.

Use the one touch white balance, use a tripod and get 1 or 2 second exposure. Look at my tests on white balance and night shots:

this is with auto white balance, very red:

http://www.pbase.com/image/674176

i used the one touch white balance, pointed the camera on the building wall and pressed the OK button to fix the new white balance and here is the result:

http://www.pbase.com/image/674183

These had exposure of 4 or 6 seconds i think.

Chris Riviere said:

Okay,
This was taken in the P mode with 1/2 I think. The ISO was set to
100. Let me know what you think.



Thanks. Let me know if you have any sugestions, can it turn out
much better than this?

Also, all of my night pics seem to be very red, can I change this?

Chris

Click to expand...

--Daniella http://www.pbase.com/zylenC7OO discussion group: http://www.homepet.com/cgi-bin/c700/UltraBoard.cgi

Chris Riviere said:

Okay,
This was taken in the P mode with 1/2 I think. The ISO was set to
100. Let me know what you think.

Click to expand...

With a subject so dark, ISO 100 would need at least 1/8 to stabilize. U would need TUNGSTEN white balance to balance out the reds. Do not worry about the pic turns out slight cool, twicking to add a little red is easy but to subtract red is much tougher.
--himalayas~ ~ Merely a View

Daniella.

I took the same pix http://www.pbase.com/image/646632 ; at the SJ Japanese friendship garden in 1984. The difference was it was on 35mm and taken in daylight.--George, K2EWL http://wwwbg.tripod.com D-360L,C3000,C2100UZ +2 crummy vivitars and a whole bunch of antique film exposing machines

Daniella, will you please explain the "one touch" white balance.

I looked in my UZ manual and did not see a one touch feature.

Thanks,

Jerry

Daniella said:

Hello chris,

Use the one touch white balance>

Click to expand...

Daniella68313 said:

http://www.pbase.com/image/674176

i used the one touch white balance, pointed the camera on the
building wall and pressed the OK button to fix the new white
balance and here is the result:

http://www.pbase.com/image/674183

These had exposure of 4 or 6 seconds i think.

Chris Riviere said:

Okay,
This was taken in the P mode with 1/2 I think. The ISO was set to
100. Let me know what you think.



Thanks. Let me know if you have any sugestions, can it turn out
much better than this?

Also, all of my night pics seem to be very red, can I change this?

Chris

Click to expand...

--
Daniella
http://www.pbase.com/zylen
C7OO discussion group:
http://www.homepet.com/cgi-bin/c700/UltraBoard.cgi

Click to expand...

Jerry Davis said:

Daniella, will you please explain the "one touch" white balance.

I looked in my UZ manual and did not see a one touch feature.

Thanks,

Jerry

Click to expand...

The "one touch" white balance feature isn't present on the 2100. Chris and Daniella use the C700 which has this feature. You can manually set your white balance to different presets like flourescent lighting, cloudy day, sunny day, and tungsten lighting. In most cases, the AUTO setting is sufficient.

himalayas said:

With a subject so dark, ISO 100 would need at least 1/8 to
stabilize. U would need TUNGSTEN white balance to balance out the
reds. Do not worry about the pic turns out slight cool, twicking to
add a little red is easy but to subtract red is much tougher.

--
himalayas
~ Merely a View

Click to expand...

Chris is using a C700 instead of the 2100 and would probably need a tripod even at 1/8. What were the details of your shot of the Geggenheim at night? What settings did you use?

I agree that substracting red is much harder, but i think for that he one touch white balance will be much more powerfull, i tried all white balance and the thunstene will only reduce it but one touch is the best.

himalayas said:

Chris Riviere said:

Okay,
This was taken in the P mode with 1/2 I think. The ISO was set to
100. Let me know what you think.

Click to expand...

With a subject so dark, ISO 100 would need at least 1/8 to
stabilize. U would need TUNGSTEN white balance to balance out the
reds. Do not worry about the pic turns out slight cool, twicking to
add a little red is easy but to subtract red is much tougher.

--
himalayas
~ Merely a View

Click to expand...

--Daniella http://www.pbase.com/zylenC7OO discussion group: http://www.homepet.com/cgi-bin/c700/UltraBoard.cgi

huh? sorry i totally missing the point here. How does the photo in day light taken with film SLR will help ?

Are you suggesting that he go there during the day to set the white balance? or are you suggesting he do not take night shot but go in the day instead? i don,t understand.

George Druther said:

Daniella.
I took the same pix http://www.pbase.com/image/646632 ; at the SJ
Japanese friendship garden in 1984. The difference was it was on
35mm and taken in daylight.
--
George, K2EWL http://wwwbg.tripod.com
D-360L,C3000,C2100UZ +
2 crummy vivitars and a whole bunch of antique film exposing machines

Click to expand...

--Daniella http://www.pbase.com/zylenC7OO discussion group: http://www.homepet.com/cgi-bin/c700/UltraBoard.cgi

Hi Chris,

For low light shots with the C-700, it's better to use full manual mode where you set both the aperature and shutter. The reason is, in P mode or one of the other semi-automatic modes, the camera will not allow you to shoot below 1/30 sec (to prevent camera shake). As a result, many of your shots will come out underexposed. If you meter the scene in full manual mode, you don't encounter this limitation in the software.

One thing I've learned with these digicams - there is very little exposure lattitude one way or another. You have to get the exposure and close to correct as possible. Underexpose and you get a lot of noise. Overexpose and you badly blow out the highlights.

Bill

Terry Thorn said:

Chris is using a C700 instead of the 2100 and would probably need a
tripod even at 1/8. What were the details of your shot of the
Geggenheim at night? What settings did you use?

Click to expand...

C2100uz, IS on, ISO200 at 1/2 sec. No Tripod but me
--himalayas~ ~ Merely a View

Daniella said:

I agree that substracting red is much harder, but i think for that
he one touch white balance will be much more powerfull, i tried all
white balance and the thunstene will only reduce it but one touch
is the best.

Click to expand...

Unfortunately, one touch is not in my UZI

However, one touch is not a cure all as there are many situations which u cannot place a card or even find a white object at a ceiling or far away.

WB control is something we gain with digital cam but need time to experiment.
--himalayas~ ~ Merely a View

I never used a white card, i generally point the camera and compose my scene and then press the OK button and that is usually enough to fix the worse light situation, see my experiment on this:

http://www.pbase.com/c700

in the night gallery, i have sample with Auto white balance, thungstene and One touch white balance. The one touch managed to bring back in colors that were totally lost in other withe balance mode, like the green of the trees in front of the building and the pink of the balcony.

As experiment...i tried postprocessing the messed up image in Photoshop and never managed to bring those colors back.

This feature is so powerfull that it will bring my IR images from totally red cast with red everything including vegetation and will turn that vegetation back to green.

himalayas said:

Daniella said:

I agree that substracting red is much harder, but i think for that
he one touch white balance will be much more powerfull, i tried all
white balance and the thunstene will only reduce it but one touch
is the best.

Click to expand...

Unfortunately, one touch is not in my UZI
However, one touch is not a cure all as there are many situations
which u cannot place a card or even find a white object at a
ceiling or far away.

WB control is something we gain with digital cam but need time to
experiment.

--
himalayas
~ Merely a View

Click to expand...

--Daniella http://www.pbase.com/zylenC7OO discussion group: http://www.homepet.com/cgi-bin/c700/UltraBoard.cgi

Daniella,

So the one touch white balance is pretty much just for a single scene. For instance I used the one touch balance in my room. Then when I took all my shots at the lacrosse game, they look overly bright. Is this because I didn't put the white balance back to auto or do the one touch white balance. Thanks.

http://www.internetupdates.com/cgi-bin/photo/index.cgi?album=GT_Lacrosse&mode=view

Chris

Daniella said:

http://www.pbase.com/c700

in the night gallery, i have sample with Auto white balance,
thungstene and One touch white balance. The one touch managed to
bring back in colors that were totally lost in other withe balance
mode, like the green of the trees in front of the building and the
pink of the balcony.

As experiment...i tried postprocessing the messed up image in
Photoshop and never managed to bring those colors back.

This feature is so powerfull that it will bring my IR images from
totally red cast with red everything including vegetation and will
turn that vegetation back to green.

himalayas said:

Daniella said:

I agree that substracting red is much harder, but i think for that
he one touch white balance will be much more powerfull, i tried all
white balance and the thunstene will only reduce it but one touch
is the best.

Click to expand...

Unfortunately, one touch is not in my UZI
However, one touch is not a cure all as there are many situations
which u cannot place a card or even find a white object at a
ceiling or far away.

WB control is something we gain with digital cam but need time to
experiment.

--
himalayas
~ Merely a View

Click to expand...

--
Daniella
http://www.pbase.com/zylen
C7OO discussion group:
http://www.homepet.com/cgi-bin/c700/UltraBoard.cgi

Click to expand...

Daniella said:

I never used a white card, i generally point the camera and compose
my scene and then press the OK button and that is usually enough to
fix the worse light situation, see my experiment on this:

http://www.pbase.com/c700

in the night gallery, i have sample with Auto white balance,
thungstene and One touch white balance. The one touch managed to
bring back in colors that were totally lost in other withe balance
mode, like the green of the trees in front of the building and the
pink of the balcony.

Click to expand...

I looked at your images though I am not there but I have taken enough night shots with similar situation to think that my TUNGSTEN wb in my UZI looks more like your 1-TOUCH wb in your c700.
--himalayas~ ~ Merely a View

An extremely under exposed Uzi pic, especially in tungsten lighting will be overpoweringly red...Try & find the best White Balance setting between the choices the Uzi gives you by viewing through the EVF closer to the light source with the WB menu active look on the perimeter of the menu while you click through the menu & you'll see the effect in the EVF. Since that pic you've shown is probably very dull in the EVF getting closer to the light source for WB setting will probably be easier to view through the EVF. Once you choose the best looking setting, which will probably be auto or tungsten put the camera on a tripod & reframe the shot with a longer exposure & it might come out acceptible. I did this shot on a tripod in "P" mode with auto WB:



http://www.pbase.com/image/674176 Inspite of Daniellas contention that the white Balance is off. This is pretty close to what the area looks like. If you'll notice the bright clean white of the tower in the back & the green color of the tree leaves prove the camera picked up all the color but the orange cast on the blacktop from sodium lighting gives the impression of bad whitebalance but that's actually how the streetlights effect the whole area....& aside from being a bit more intense in this pic that blacktop actually has that orange cast to it IRL....

Jerry Davis said:

Daniella, will you please explain the "one touch" white balance.

I looked in my UZ manual and did not see a one touch feature.

Thanks,

Jerry

Click to expand...

Jerry Davis said:

Daniella said:

Hello chris,

Use the one touch white balance>

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

Jerry Davis said:

Jerry Davis said:

i used the one touch white balance, pointed the camera on the
building wall and pressed the OK button to fix the new white
balance and here is the result:

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

Jerry Davis said:

Jerry Davis said:

These had exposure of 4 or 6 seconds i think.

Chris Riviere said:

Okay,
This was taken in the P mode with 1/2 I think. The ISO was set to
100. Let me know what you think.

Thanks. Let me know if you have any sugestions, can it turn out
much better than this?

Also, all of my night pics seem to be very red, can I change this?

Chris

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

--'Happy Shootin' !!!'UZ'P'Shoot'ERS' http://www.pbase.com/rrawzz http://www.pbase.com/otfgallery/uzpshooterMe & My UZI, Strollin Down The Avenue. Me & My UZI, Focusin On Somethin New. To 'UZe' Or Not To 'UZe'? That 'IS' The Question. Weather It 'IS' Nobler To Suffer Natures Outrageous Slings & Arrows? Or Go With Adobe? That's My Story & I'm Stickin To It. Take It Or Leave It c2100uz/e100rs (in that order)

Absolutely. The one touch is correcting for the lighting at the time you set it. You'd need to re-set it or switch to auto or one of the pre-programmed modes if you switch to a different lighting situation.

Chris Riviere said:

Daniella,
So the one touch white balance is pretty much just for a single
scene. For instance I used the one touch balance in my room. Then
when I took all my shots at the lacrosse game, they look overly
bright. Is this because I didn't put the white balance back to auto
or do the one touch white balance. Thanks.

http://www.internetupdates.com/cgi-bin/photo/index.cgi?album=GT_Lacrosse&mode=view

Chris

Click to expand...

One of the great things about digital. If you can't get close as "P" suggests, just take a series of shots with all of the different WB settings. You can review them on the LCD to see which one works best, and move on from there.

'UZ'pShoot'ERS' said:

An extremely under exposed Uzi pic, especially in tungsten lighting
will be overpoweringly red...Try & find the best White Balance
setting between the choices the Uzi gives you by viewing through
the EVF closer to the light source with the WB menu active look on
the perimeter of the menu while you click through the menu & you'll
see the effect in the EVF. Since that pic you've shown is probably
very dull in the EVF getting closer to the light source for WB
setting will probably be easier to view through the EVF. Once you
choose the best looking setting, which will probably be auto or
tungsten put the camera on a tripod & reframe the shot with a
longer exposure & it might come out acceptible. I did this shot on
a tripod in "P" mode with auto WB:
http://www.pbase.com/image/352674/medium.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/image/674176 Inspite of Daniellas contention
that the white Balance is off. This is pretty close to what the
area looks like. If you'll notice the bright clean white of the
tower in the back & the green color of the tree leaves prove the
camera picked up all the color but the orange cast on the blacktop
from sodium lighting gives the impression of bad whitebalance but
that's actually how the streetlights effect the whole area....&
aside from being a bit more intense in this pic that blacktop
actually has that orange cast to it IRL....

Click to expand...