Binoculars wildlife, canon or nikon, or ..

root107910

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I know this is not the place to discuss binoculars, but also glass and good/bad/optics.

Just back from a visit to Kruger Game Park in SA. Used a friends binoculars, but optics was very poor.

Now that I have invested so much in 70-200 + TC and 17-55, I feel I need a semi decent binoculars for next visit.

Do one have to go for IS/VR, any recommendations, magnification factor and field of view.

Or should I rather save for 200-400VR.

Any help would be much appreciated.
 
I haven't done any comparisons against any other binoculars, but I'm pretty happy with my Nikon Travelite 8-24x binoculars. They're fairly small and lightweight. At 8x they seem pretty sharp and it's nice to have the additional zoom range if you need it. At higher magnifications I have trouble holding them steady unless I use some sort of support.

I visited Yellowstone several years ago and at the time had a Nikon 8x binocular which just wasn't enough. I found myself wishing I had more magnification and that's why I bought the 8-24x model. Of course a spotting scope is an option for that environment.

Overall I'm very pleased with them and would buy them again.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=Search&A=details&Q=&sku=199924&is=REG&addedTroughType=search
 
I know this is not the place to discuss binoculars, but also glass
and good/bad/optics.

Just back from a visit to Kruger Game Park in SA. Used a friends
binoculars, but optics was very poor.

Now that I have invested so much in 70-200 + TC and 17-55, I feel I
need a semi decent binoculars for next visit.

Do one have to go for IS/VR, any recommendations, magnification
factor and field of view.

Or should I rather save for 200-400VR.

Any help would be much appreciated.
If you want the best Binoculars then you need to check out the ranges from Swarovski, Leica and Zeiss. Not cheap - but definitely the best.
 
I would carefully consider size and weight. Birders go out with a pair of binos and that is all the gear they have (except their Peterson's guide, of course). You will be primarily concerned with your photo gear and you will probabaly have a big lens (or a bigger lens if you get your 200-400) and a tripod. I big pair of binos will just get in the way and weigh you down when you are hiking your gear around. Depends on your priorities, of course.

--
Regards,
Neil
 
Don't neglect the Nikon Premier LX line, it compares favorably with other top of the line binoculars. I have the smallest, the 8x20, and they are fanastic.
 
The extra weight/size would become a problem as stated by Neil.

I save the money towards the big zoom {200-400}, and go for 100-200$ range. At that price, it can be replaced when needed, if ever. And just have to accept that the performance would not be the same as a $1000 bino.

Thanks for the help
 
Depends on how serious you are, how much you want to spend, what you want to look at and how much other gear you carry as well.

I personally like the Leica/Zeiss/Swarovski due to the build quality. I also like them to be waterproof and I wear spectacles and want the full field of view while wearing them. I have Swarovski the 8x30 SLCII, my wife the Leica 8x20. The Swarovskis are quite light for the specification. The Leicas are the latest ones and are excellent for 8x20s. The Swarovski EL range are excellent (as are the top end Leica/Zeiss) but heavy and very expensive. Best thing is to try some and see what suits. Be careful, there is a lot of cr*p out there.

Keith.

http://photobucket.com/albums/v345/keith1200rs/
 
At least now I have a couple of good brands.
It would be nice to have a top brand + IS/VR/..
But the size/weight is a issue, when carrying D200 70-200+TC {Later big zoom}
D70 17-55 keep close by.

Off to the shops and limit to +-300US.
 
Please do yourself a favor and include the two Leupold models I linked to in my other post in this thread. I think they offer a combination of quality, light-weight and value that none of the others, Canon, Nikon, Fuji, nor the big three, can match. And Leupold is a brand with an excellent reputation.
 
One thing to consider is exit pupil size because it is a major factor in cost, size and weight. The exit pupil is the diameter of the lens divided by the magnification. For example, 7x35 binos are 7x with 35mm diameter lenses. They have a 5mm exit pupil.

You will see exit pupils as high as 7mm (ex. 10x70). A large exit pupil is beneficial if you are young and are using the binos at night or maybe deep dusk. The idea is that your eye's pupil has a certain diameter for any given ambient light level and by matching that diameter you maximize the amount of light transmitted to your eye. If, however, your pupil is dialated to 3mm and you are using 7mm exit pupil binos, much of the light is wasted. During the day, you should not see much difference between 10x70's and 10x40's. A young person, in pitch dark, and dark adapted, will have a max of a 7mm exit pupil. As you age, your pupil size recedes to about 5mm or so.

For daylight use, I don't see any sense in going past 4mm or so, especially for your (portability) needs, because your eyes will be dialated and even if you are viewing something in deep shade, where more light might help, you are probably in bright enough light that your eyes are dialated to 4mm or so. All that extra glass (and associated weight- and cost) is wasted. Take that into consideration when you pick your binos. If I were picking a new pair, I would go with something like 10x40 or maybe 15x40-50 at the largest, depending on what magnification I wanted. I might go with something like 10x30 to cut weight, size and cost, but I would want to pick them out in person.

If you go with a higher magnification, you need a progressively larger diameter lens to maintain a 4mm or so exit pupil. If you go too much lower the image will be dim. You should try some out in a shop to see what exit pupil you are most comfortable with. Because of the portability issues, if you go much beyond 10X you may be trading magnification for a brighter view. For the same reason that it is much more enjoyable to shoot with a fast F/1.4 lens rather than a slow F/5.6 zoom, sometimes a brighter view, within reason, is better than a highly magnified but dimmer view. I don't want to argue decimal points with anyone, I'm just trying to be vague enough to say that you need to try them out before you buy and to understand in a general sense the real life trade-offs behind the numbers.
--
Regards,
Neil
 
He is the only one in this thread telling you right. You will not be happy with a compact set of bins for wildlife. You'll want something that is 7x35, 8x40, or 10x50. These work best in low light - every birder I know uses these. No one uses the compact binoculars. You can get a nice pair of Nikon Action series very cheap - and the optics is as good as the top line. What you don't get is nitrogen-filled, shock resistance, but you'll pay less than $150, too. So for the price of some of these others you can just buy yourself another pair.

Here is the rule with binoculars: Never buy a pair you cannot afford to replace.
 
As I tried to say in my first post here, technically you are very right. The problem is that birders only need to carry around their binos, not a big camera, lens and tripod too. I think it makes for a difficult compromise. I've been using a very cheap, old 7x35s that I hate, but I can't decide how much I want to compromise on size verses brightness.

I usually shoot two bodies when I am birding. Even a pair of 7x35's is a major annoyance for me. It all depends on your setup of course. It's a tough decision if you understand all the trade-offs. It's an impossible decision if you don't.

--
Regards,
Neil
 
He is the only one in this thread telling you right. You will not
be happy with a compact set of bins for wildlife. You'll want
something that is 7x35, 8x40, or 10x50. These work best in low
light - every birder I know uses these. No one uses the compact
binoculars.
I use 8x30, my wife uses 8x20, both for bird watching. I see plenty of people using 8x30s for bird watching. Everyone has to make a choice about how much weight they are prepared to carry (in my case carrying an SLR as well). I have an 80mm objective telescope as well, but I don't use it a great deal because there is a limit to how far I am prepared to lug it, along with the tripod.

Exit pupil is just a mathematical ratio - it doesn't give a true idea of brightness, and does nothing to tell you about resolution and aberations which are also very important. You really have to compare binoculars to buy them. I have always bought them at places where you can try them out in the field (usually at bird reserves).

One thing not mentioned so far is the ability to hold them still. I must say, the Canon IS ones are brilliant in that respect. It is surprising how much more you can see even on 10x binoculars with IS. They do tend to be heavy though and relatively small objective sizes.

Keith.

http://photobucket.com/albums/v345/keith1200rs/
 
These are the highest quality (especially for the money), most compact, lightest weight, most convenient, water-proof & fog-proof binocs going for the camera, lens and tripod toting photographer (& I looked at them ALL). Exit pupil in the 5.2mm range, Eye relief 16-17mm, relative brightness about 28, fast center focus, top quality optics, great build quality -- who could ask for anything more?
These are my favorite binoculars for use when I am also carting
lots of camera gear:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=Search&A=details&Q=&sku=327023&is=USA&addedTroughType=search
(or, if you really want more magnification,)
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=Search&A=details&Q=&sku=327014&is=USA&addedTroughType=search
 
If you want the best Binoculars then you need to check out the
ranges from Swarovski, Leica and Zeiss. Not cheap - but
definitely the best.
Nikon bnoculars are the equal of any, even expensive European glass.

It depends on what you want in terms of weight, weather proofing, cost and size. Price wise porro prism binoculars (the dog leg shape ones) are the best value i.e. best optical quality for a given price. But roof prism binoculars tend to be more compact. You might want to check out something like a Bausch and Lomb 8x26 Porro such as a legacy. They are inexpensive, and pretty damned good. But the small objective does not get much might. An 8x30 would be brighter on dim days. An 8x40 might be a bit large. I own Zeiss and Swarovski 8x20 bins, Nikon 8x32 SE and the top end Zeiss 8x40 FL. The small ones are nice, but do not grab much light, and have little eye relief and field of view. The Zeiss FL is waterproof, the Nikon isn't, but both have comparable optics. The Nikon is much much cheaper. There are also some budget 8x40 porro bins that offer good performance. Online reviews might help such as Better View Desired.
 

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