Pekka's LinearSharpen on G2

I am a novice with PS. I was just curious. What is Fond Copy or Fond Copie. I dont see a layer by that name being created anywhere in the action. Does Duplicate Current Layer create it?
Good Luck,

Oh, actually I should mention to cocorico that he can run Photoshop
in english by removing or renaming the file called something like
"tw10428.dat" in his main Photoshop folder. In Photoshop 6, they
moved it somewhere else, I forget wher eexactly, but it's there as
well...

hth,

Willie
The linear portion works well but I am running into problems with
the sharpen part. The Hide Layer "Fond Copie" doesnt work. I get an
error message saying that layer "fond copie" not currently
available. The same error crops up later when you Select Layer
"Fond Copie"
Tell me if I am doing something wrong.
 
I've been playing around with various viewers and browsers, and noticed that xnview, (freeware), has a filter called "focus restoration'.

It seems to work extremely well, sharpening without halos.

Anyone know what it is doing? Anyone else play around with it?

Is there a photoshop plug in like this?

Thanks,
Don
 
Willie G,

Untill now, I always assigned sRGB-profile to the images, because in that case I got the best corresponding color result with the printed images on a Epson 870 printer (besides the screen calibration topic, the best corresponding color result with the original subject color);
I choose in the 870 menu for 'no color adjustments';

When I experiment with adding the AdobeRGB profile, I get other colors, unless I check in the 870 menu 'sRGB'; It seems that otherwise, I have to use a printer profile, to get the right colors out on the 870 (when assigning AdobeRGB to the original image);
Your vision on this please ?
Luc Minnebo
About adding sRGB to the end of the actions, I think it's a mistake
as well. I prefer to leave my data unprofiled. When I send to the
lab, I convert to AdobeRGB, when I send to the Iris at work, I use
Color Match... I just deleted the step from the end of the action.
 
Colin,

Congratulated and thanks for your previous version ! I have tried it on only one image, so my remark below can be discussed.

The dark area's are darker ( =0) when using your action, then when just converting directly from RAW to normal 16-bit TIFF;

I will try it on other critical images, but to my feeling the blackpoint is shifted too much, and some clipping occurs at that site;
Looking forward to your next version !

Luc Minnebo
2. Image from my new CW-Linear Action V1 (Note increased dynamic
range & detail, the image is a little dark but the detail is there)
 
Luc,

Thanks for the comments.

Indeed there is a problem with the Blackpoint/Contrast that I have now resolved. (I have only been using PhotoShop for 2 months so have a lot to learn!)

Please do not use the old version they had many flaws that I have rectified in the final version.

Colin
Congratulated and thanks for your previous version ! I have tried
it on only one image, so my remark below can be discussed.
The dark area's are darker ( =0) when using your action, then when
just converting directly from RAW to normal 16-bit TIFF;
I will try it on other critical images, but to my feeling the
blackpoint is shifted too much, and some clipping occurs at that
site;
Looking forward to your next version !

Luc Minnebo
2. Image from my new CW-Linear Action V1 (Note increased dynamic
range & detail, the image is a little dark but the detail is there)
 
Martin

Good effort, I have compiled the following:-

1. Straight Canon conversion with sharpness on Low:-



Notes: This image must have been sharpened by the Canon software, although I set sharpening to low!

2. Rico's Linear action (you got there in the end!):-



Notes: Very good effort Rico.

3. Martin's Ultra Linear action:-



Notes: Noble attempt but shows pronounced colour cast + muddy colours

4. My CW-Linear V1 action:-



Notes: Image was not sharpened in any way, slight hue shifts will be rectified in the final release

All Images were cropped & saved, no additional sharpening was added.

Colin
A new action created from scratch, please give it a try and share
the results.

http://martin.warande.net/LS/UltraLinear-G2-0.1.atn

P.S.: This version doesn't do any sharpening nor boost shadow
details yet, I will continue to improve it though.

Martin
 
On some monitors are the differences not really apparent because of the brightness/contrast setting.

To exaggerate the difference I increased the gamma.



A is Canon's
B is your's

Look at the shadows and dark areas A has more details than B, altough the difference is subtle on screen but if will be more on print. There is no major change necessary, you just need to tweak the curves.

Martin
Please explain further, I think shadow detail is about the same as
the Canon processed image.

But maybe my inexperience is showing here.

Colin
It has lost the shadow details Collin... you need to work on that.

Martin
 
hmm... my vision... try different methods and choose the one that gives you the best results with the least hassle. There really isn't any reason to do otherwise. If a think is working, don't fiks it.

That thing about using Adobe RGB for your inkjet is just a broad rule of thumb. The reason we don't use it at work, or try not to, is just because it has too many colors that fall out of the cmyk gamut, which means we "theoretically" have more work getting the colors back to where the customer would like them. The reason I use it for my own prints at the fotolab is because I sent in a couple photos with sRGB and Adobe RGB tags the Adobe RGB images looked better. There is no hard and fast rule.

I don't have an 870, but it seems like you can change the icc tag in your prints... russelbrown.com has an excellent pdf article about getting the best color from Photoshop and an Epson printer. But.. my printer has been broken for about a year, so I don't really have any experience with home printing (got my camera a couple months ago)

Sorry if that wasn't much of a reply, but your question was pretty broad...

have fun :o)

ML wrote:
Untill now, I always assigned sRGB-profile to the images, because
in that case I got the best corresponding color result with the
printed images on a Epson 870 printer (besides the screen
calibration topic, the best corresponding color result with the

original subject color);--Willie G.Kulmbach. GermanyCanon G2- my eyeglasses have Carl Zeiss lenses - http://www.pbase.com/effzee
 
I'm curious, do you keep contrast on low as well? That'll retain more detail in the shadows and leave more choices up to you and Photoshop. I've been leaving all three on low lately...
Good effort, I have compiled the following:-

1. Straight Canon conversion with sharpness on Low:---Willie G.Kulmbach. GermanyCanon G2- my eyeglasses have Carl Zeiss lenses - http://www.pbase.com/effzee
 
Hi,

Could someone please point me in the direction of the latest releases of the linear actions that have been posted here? I D/L'ed 3 of them yesterday, but 1. I'm not sure anymore which one came from who and 2. I suspect two of them have been updated. The thread has become a bit daunting to go through and figure it out...

Tia,--Willie G.Kulmbach. GermanyCanon G2- my eyeglasses have Carl Zeiss lenses - http://www.pbase.com/effzee
 
Hi ezfee

There are three people working on this, Collin Walker, Rico (cocorico) and me. And here are the latest versions:

Rico's action
http://www.multimania.com/eje/ricos_g2_linear_process.atn

Collin's action
http://www.mechems.co.uk/G2-LinearNew.atn

And my action
http://martin.warande.net/LS/UltraLinear-G2-0.1.atn

My action is still in development so dont expect much from it and yes I try to keep contrast low, the problem with these kinds of action is that it may works well on certain pictures but not the others.

Martin
Hi,

Could someone please point me in the direction of the latest
releases of the linear actions that have been posted here? I D/L'ed
3 of them yesterday, but 1. I'm not sure anymore which one came
from who and 2. I suspect two of them have been updated. The thread
has become a bit daunting to go through and figure it out...

Tia,
--
Willie G.
Kulmbach. Germany
Canon G2
  • my eyeglasses have Carl Zeiss lenses -
http://www.pbase.com/effzee
 
Thanks Martin, I put them in separate folders...
the problem with these kinds of
action is that it may works well on certain pictures but not the
others.
hmmm... where have I heard that before? ;)

great work from all of you! I might try it, too... I have to get a grip on the 16-bit thing first, this is new territory for me (which makes it fun for a change, lol)

--Willie G.Kulmbach. GermanyCanon G2- my eyeglasses have Carl Zeiss lenses - http://www.pbase.com/effzee
 
Martin,

the idea is that the action should work on ALL images. I've been doing this for weeks (sigh...) but it's still not correct. 9 out of 10 images look OK, but the 10th could have really strange colour shifts. The best thing to do would be to shoot a test image that contains all pure primary colours, convert it to both linear and non-linear, and then just start experimenting. My current version can be found at
http://www.kolumbus.fi/jouko.ruuskanen/LinearAction_V1_JR.atn

The only things that are final are the basic curves. --Jouko
 
Yet another person working on it. I love it. Wish I could contribute but my knowledge of both photography and PS is limited. I am sure that all G2 users will benefit from your efforts. Continue posting the latest actions. I know enough about PS to test them and will gladly do so when I get the opportunity. Keep up the good work.
Martin,
the idea is that the action should work on ALL images. I've been
doing this for weeks (sigh...) but it's still not correct. 9 out of
10 images look OK, but the 10th could have really strange colour
shifts. The best thing to do would be to shoot a test image that
contains all pure primary colours, convert it to both linear and
non-linear, and then just start experimenting. My current version
can be found at
http://www.kolumbus.fi/jouko.ruuskanen/LinearAction_V1_JR.atn

The only things that are final are the basic curves.
--
Jouko
 

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