Do monopods help much?

I get into situations where I really don't like using tripods nor are they practical. I have a 70-200 4/L and have trouble getting the shutter speeds I need for a sharp picture and was wondering how much a monopod would help camera shake. Also, would I need the bracket for this lens?

You do not need a bracket.

Yes, monopods are a great help in steadying the camera, but remember, they do not slow down the subjects, so you'll still get blur if the sibjects move too fast.

For lots of work, the big deal with the monopod is that it holds the lens in front of your eye while you follow the action, making your shoulders a lot more comfortable than hand holding the camera at eye level for minutes at a time.

BAK

How much do monopods with the self standing feet help?

The answer is yes and no. With monopod the camera is still free to move in two dimensions, vs. 3 dimensions when hand held. You really need to learn the right way to use it in orderto get the most benifit. Or if your hand holding is really unstable then monopod will be very helpful.

A tripod ring is not necessary for 70-200 4L but it will help balance the camera/lens better on monopod.

Cindy74 said:

I get into situations where I really don't like using tripods nor
are they practical. I have a 70-200 4/L and have trouble getting
the shutter speeds I need for a sharp picture and was wondering how
much a monopod would help camera shake. Also, would I need the
bracket for this lens?

Click to expand...

Yes, but technique is critical. I never had much luck until I was pointed to this site:

http://www.outdooreyes.com/photo5.php3

Option 1 works best for me and greatly improved stability when using a monopod.

I do have the Bogen 680B with the folding legs but it is a heavy rig. At full eye height I don't feel that it provides any more stability than the technique mentioned above (it is certaily not free-standing unless opened to only a short height and even then it's not very secure).

Bottom line - I use the technique above with a monopod and ballhead with a quick release. I even use the lightweight Bogen 676B Digi Monopod with a 350D and 70-300 lens with great success. I leave the heavier monopod at home, now.

Dave

Thanks Dave! Great article!

I use combined walking-stik/monopod when trekking, especially in the montains. The idea is, that in the head of the walking-stick a thread is built in, accepting the camera of course ;-) In that case, it is OK while the "monopod" has two benefits. For other, normal situations, I either rise the ISO (in order to keep a high shutter speed) or use a tripod.

I reckon its worth 2 stops.

I got the Manfrotto monopod head and leave the tilt still able to move (with a tiny bit of friction). Worked great sitting in a grandstand trying to shoot rally cars at night with a sigma 70-200. Alot more keepers. Its sort of like adding IS to your lens.

Hi Cindy,

You may find not everyone agrees about how much a monopod will help. The link from above is a very good one and I suggest you pratice with a monopod a while before you try it in the field. One thing you may notice is that the monopod needs to be much longer when you angle it between your feet than when it is just straight up and down.

I use my monopod in different ways depending on what I am shooting. Sometimes I am on the side of a hill, in mud, close to a tree (or other object) that can be used with a monopod and my legs to form a tripod. It is important to be as flexiable as possible when using a monopod and take advantage of any feature to help you make it a better support system.

I also think the head you use on a monopod is very important. I often use a Wimberely Sidekick, but there are other solutions that may work just as well for your 200mm lens. RRS sells really highend items, but here is their suggestion for monopod use and it works quite well for lots of situations

http://www.reallyrightstuff.com/tutorials/monopods/index.html

As to how many stops I get look at this image



I would not claim it is the sharpest one around, but if you go here and look at the EXIF data it seems to me I am getting a lot more than 2-3 stops by using a monopod

http://www.pbase.com/tommy2guns/image/38734314/original

I have a similar monopod head but find it is best to attach the camera/lens directly to the monopod. Unless of course if you want to tilt the camera up or down a lot then a head is still needed.

Brad Gould said:

I reckon its worth 2 stops.

I got the Manfrotto monopod head and leave the tilt still able to
move (with a tiny bit of friction). Worked great sitting in a
grandstand trying to shoot rally cars at night with a sigma 70-200.
Alot more keepers. Its sort of like adding IS to your lens.

Click to expand...

I got the Bogen Manfrotto 679 with the 3229 quick release swivel head. It is very sturdy and cheap. I will practice with it tomorrow!

Thank you for the pointers. I picked one up and playing around with it I see that leaning against the wall can also help. I am going to practice with it tomorrow.

They definitely help, you just have to practice your techniques. Try to stabelize it with something if you can, i.e. a close by object or even your legs, this helps to keep it still. I find too, if I don't hold it tight at shooting time, but rather let it sit there by itself and simply squeese the shutter release helps.

Hi Cindy,

I find the monopod extremely useful using a consumer lens with no IS. It's easily given me a few more stops of light. Here's an example at 300mm, 1/30 second, f8. No way can I shoot consistantly at 1/30 second, but using a monopod can make that possible.



Roger

Cindy74 said:

I get into situations where I really don't like using tripods nor
are they practical. I have a 70-200 4/L and have trouble getting
the shutter speeds I need for a sharp picture and was wondering how
much a monopod would help camera shake. Also, would I need the
bracket for this lens?

Click to expand...

You are right. I just took some indoor shots at 1/15 that are pretty reasonable. I tried the same shot with nothing and it was horrible. I think I am going to be very happy with this.

The monopods with self-standing feet work fine if you need a monopod to stand up by itself. However, if you put a camera on top, the base-to-height is so extreme that it’s pretty useless – as if you were using a tripod with a 4-ft center post. If you need a tripod, get one, but don’t pretend that a monopod with teeney feet will function as well.
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BJCP National

This is taken at 1/30 f/2.8 50mm with the focus on the rim near the hot spot. This shot with a 1.6 sensor would take at least 1/80 to hand hold so it definately helps.

Not meant to be a pretty picture.

I goofed. Cant get the pic to show up.

Hope this does it or I give up.

http://www.pixentral.com/show.php?picture=1LsEMiwlT2Ae0ZEZM4puXlgxXOaSL1

The monopod is a godsend for me. Being a slightly built man with not so great shoulders and arms, 20D/70-200 2.8 IS would weigh me down without the Bogen. (676B + 3229 head )

Take a look at the concert photos I have covered on http://www.dhaatri.com/photos/ ... all are "monopod driven"
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Shreeni