Softboxes and gels

Greg Reinacker

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Does anyone have a cool trick for fitting a gel into a softbox?

I've been kinda taping it in there with some gaffers tape, but I always wonder if it's going to fall off without my noticing for a while.

I've thought about fitting it to the internal baffle (on a photoflex box), but that doesn't go edge to edge and thus there would be white leakage around it.

I read earlier about someone building a gel "condom" and putting it right against the flash tube - that'd probably work...but I'd love to see a picture of it.

What do you guys do?

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Greg

Photos: http://gregr.smugmug.com
Weblog: http://www.rassoc.com/gregr/weblog
 
Be careful with putting a gel material against your flash tube. Not all gels can withstand the heat and will melt. I have used gels against a hot shoe flash and had them melt onto the flash lens. Fortunately I noticed what was happening before I completely ruined the flash. I still have some blue residue on the lens that I can't remove. I haven't used gels in any of my Photflex soft boxes but I would think a gel holder would be appropriate.
 
Be careful with putting a gel material against your flash tube. Not
all gels can withstand the heat and will melt. I have used gels
against a hot shoe flash and had them melt onto the flash lens.
Fortunately I noticed what was happening before I completely ruined
the flash. I still have some blue residue on the lens that I can't
remove. I haven't used gels in any of my Photflex soft boxes but I
would think a gel holder would be appropriate.
Some photographer told me long ago that gels must be kept a good distance from the light source, otherwise they'll likely fade, deform, even burn, but did not have a clue why a small gel could not be used when after all it is the same material. He simply was using common sense.

You're right about not putting the gel against a flash bulb, let alone a modeling light.

The reason is heat dissipation is more efficient if air can flow along both surfaces of the gel, and second, the absorbed energy of the "unwanted" color is much better dissipated when it is spread on a large surface: a large piece of gel will be able to filter a lot of light without getting hot, if the light beam covers most of the gel.

You could say that a full CT blue gel (equivalent to 80A), absorbs 1,6 stops of light, therefore each 1000w/s pop has roughly 300w/s passing to the subject, and 700 w/s absorbed by the filter !

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Jean Bernier

All photographs are only more or less credible illusions
 
I understand the difficulties. For pure color, I see no real alternative than to buy gels from rolls, that is quite expensive. Best places are movie/stage/television supplies for the best in prices and selection. They sell by the foot, meter, from wide rolls.
You cover the front of the soft box.

As mentioned by another poster, it's a bad idea to wrap a flashtube with gels. I do use smallish gels over speedlights, but no abuse, low power, so there is no problems yet.

You could fashion a tube with cap out of gels, and place it over the flashtube, but it should be quite a bit larger than the tube to allow for cool operation, preferably with no modeling light. If there is a fan in the head, it won't operate normally, won't cool the bulbs, so I can't recommend.

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Jean Bernier

All photographs are only more or less credible illusions
 
The easiest and most effective way is to use small spring clamps, clamping the gel to the softbox mount, tape can loosen with heat. Many softbox brands use a fibre plastic composite ring in which the metal flash head mount is attached. This ring has 4 holes where the ends of the fibre or steel rods supporting the box insert. There are usually ribs where you can clamp the gel on this ring.

Cut your gels into quarters out of a standard 20 x 24 sheet. Clamp a piece to one side and drape over the flash tube to the opposite side, making sure there is plenty of room at the front of the flash tube and the gel is not touching to provide cooling. NEVER make a tube of gel and place over the flash tube, you'll melt it quickly and likely burn out the flash tube if it overheats. If you don't need the modelling light turn it off too.

You can place gels on the inside surface of the softbox but this has several challenges:
  • is the gel big enough to cover that 3' x 4' softbox
  • how to securely fasten the gel to the inside of the box
  • if there is any, and I mean any edge not covered by gel you'll see this white strip in reflective objects
  • if the gel is too small and you tape two together, you'll see a darker stripe of colour in reflected objects
  • you use way more gel material this way
--
35 to 4 x 5 - NPS Member
 
Wooden spring-style clothespins are a standard studio item because they're light and don't transmit heat when using with hot lights.

Use a full sheet of gel material, 24" x 36", and use clothespins to attach it to the inner corners of the SB. Sometimes the internal fabric seam works, or clip to the box strut itself. Small steel "bulldog" style desk clips would also work as heat is not an issue, and they might have stronger springs.

John
 

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