Sony H2 vs. D50 shots + lens question

Hi!

From my saga from last week, I had debated over jumping into the dSLR world with the D50 or sticking with the Sony H2. One of the reasons to have the zoom is to take closer shots of my daughter's soccer games. Finally had a chance to take some soccer shots of a boy's' team this weekend while my daughter was ref'fing the game.

As one experienced poster had mentioned, the Sony hunted a bit, but when it got the shot, it took some nice ones. I prefer the Sony colors - sometimes the Nikon shots are almost too bright (what's up with the reds in some of these??) Anyway to fix this in camera?

These were taken with the SonyH2, Tamron 18 - 200 and the Tamron 55 - 200. Would like the Tamron shots to be a bit sharper. Is it the lens? Is it me? Would something like a Nikon 55-200 be sharper? I'm looking for zoom plus as sharp as I can get, and maybe it's just not possible in this situation. Thanks for comments!

Sony H2 Auto setting
'] http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1262/6765627/13007874/196313950.jpg[/IMG] [/URL]

Sony H2 auto setting
'] http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1262/6765627/13007874/196313972.jpg[/IMG] [/URL]

Tamron 18-200 (fooled around with AP, SP, so not sure whichon these - sorry!)
'] http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1262/6765627/13007874/196313965.jpg[/IMG] [/URL]

Tamron 18-200
'] http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1262/6765627/13007874/196313955.jpg[/IMG] [/URL]

Tamron 55-200
'] http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1262/6765627/13007874/196313978.jpg[/IMG] [/URL]

Thanks for looking!

At least, not for me.

Ooops! Put in the links but not linking! Sorry! How do I get the pics to show up here? They're on picture trail and should have popped into the post. Will try it again or try different links.

The D50 photos are over exposed a bit, and I am not sure why you would use ISO 400 and 800 with the D50 for those photos....but I think you just need to practice more you will get it.

We each take photos a little differently...but I for one have very little sucess with matrix metering while other have very good results with it.

DeDe15 said:

Sony H2 Auto setting

Click to expand...

DeDe15 said:

Sony H2 auto setting

Click to expand...

DeDe15 said:

Tamron 18-200 (fooled around with AP, SP, so not sure whichon these

• sorry!)

Click to expand...

DeDe15 said:

Tamron 18-200

Click to expand...

DeDe15 said:

Tamron 55-200

Click to expand...

DeDe15 said:

Thanks for looking!

Click to expand...

--
------------------------------------------------------------
Gene
From Western PA.

Panasonic FZ 20 and FZ30
D50 and lenses.

http://imageevent.com/grc6



Just trying to learn and it's slow going!

Tell me how to do that for next time, please - not sure what I did wrong!

You have set the exposure mode to pattern. I guess the d50 overexposes a bit because of the large dark space(the trees) at nearly the half part of the picture . I think you should underexpose by 1/3 or 2/3 to get better exposure. I also see that you use iso 400 and iso 800. You should know that as the iso increases the dynamic range decreases. That's another possible answer to the overexposure.

Then in one of your pictures I noticed that you had f18 apperture. That caused a slow shutter for this theme . If you try to keep the apperture as low as possible you could achieve greater speeds ;avoiding the blur caused either from the lense movement or the theme (here are the children) movement.
Hope I helped a bit.

--
Visit my gallery at
http://nikos3104.fotopic.net/

Hi,

The shot that looked overexposed to me has a lot of dark (shadowed) foliage in the background, and I think the metering is trying to preserve something of the shadow detail there. The scene is high contrast and the camera can't know what you want but of course you want the kids exposed properly and don't care about the trees. When I shoot indoor sports I've found that the camera (in A mode) will vary exposure shot to shot as the background changes even though my subjects are under even lighting. Same goes for auto WB vs. a fixed setting.

What I would do is shoot a few shots manually, before the action is really taking place, and use the histogram and highlights display to get exposure set up and then use that setting. Exposing so that you don't have blinking highlights on the white uniforms by 1/3 stop or so is probably what you want. Then shoot away, watching for clouds or shadowed areas of the field that will change the lighting. If your zoom isn't constant aperture, make sure that your aren't set so that zooming will change aperture on you.

Good luck.

While looking at genece's post, click on Quote button. This will bring up a reply box with genece's original text in it and you can see how he entered the links. Be sure you don't hit Post, you just want to exit out of the dialog.

In the future you can check if your links are working by clicking on the Preview button prior to posting your message.
--
Brooks

http://www.bmiddleton.smugmug.com

I daresay one profits more by the mistakes one makes off one's own bat than by doing the right thing on somebody's else advice.
— W. Somerset Maugham

do not use the [ img] tags on this site. just put in the image url
--
http://www.flickr.com/photos/k-blad/

Thanks a lot! As usual this is very informative. I'm not exactly sure what I'm doing with this camera yet, as it's been years since I was into SLR. I was afraid I coulnd't even stop action with what I had formerly read, so that was the first goal with the soccer game (no pun intended!)

The pictures don't look half bad to me small like this, but when they're on my computer screen, you can see that the images close up are not 100% sharp. Is the Tamrom 55-200 (or even the 18-200) a good enough lens, or should I look for more sharpness with a Nikon 55-200? Or is it just the exposures?

The exposure stuff I'll definitely have to practice on, but I have a few more days to return the Tamrons if I decide to go with the Nikon instead - just have not tried it out (and I believe there's no manual focus on the Nikon -- necessary??)

Thanks--